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A little help please …

rcorn1031_0

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Joined
Oct 17, 2022
Messages
16
I am looking for info related to tool maintenance of TWO Snap-on Breaker Bar ratcheting adapters . An F67 3/8” Drive and an S67 1/2” Drive . Both of them have a flat round nut with Two holes 180 degrees apart from each other . Snap-on customer service could offer no help on proper dis-assembly so I can clean inspect and re-lubricate the internal ratcheting mechanisms .
I am fairly sure I need a “Face pin spanner wrench” for disassembly .
The question are the nuts Right or Left hand threaded or is it a push and turn cam type fastener with a wave spring washer underneath it . Did they use loc-Tite during assembly ? or simply torque to a specific value ? What might that value be ? Is there a special tool in existence already to perform this task ? If so what is the p/n and Who makes it . So many questions ….
I hope someone can provide answers
 
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rcorn1031_0

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Joined
Oct 17, 2022
Messages
16
I have the F67 but have never taken it apart. Have you considered just soaking in ATF to lubricate? If it doesn't function disassembly may be warranted but otherwise I'd recommend leaving it assembled.
Thank you for your reply .
They both ratchet fine but they are aged and used and I’d like to make sure they are going to be safe under load Before I use them .
While I can tolerate busted knuckles I would rather avoid them . I purchased these Used online and really would feel safer using them following a thorough disassembly , cleaning , Inspection , Lubrication and reassembly .
 

Tools4Me

Well-known member
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Jun 22, 2021
Messages
546
I have both of those ratchet adapters. I purchased mine used and I took them both apart to verify mechanical integrity and to replace the original dried up grease so they would function properly. They are regular right hand threaded, and I used the tips of right angle Knipex snap ring pliers to unscrew them. If you use snap ring pliers like I did, they do have to be the right angle type. Straight tipped snap ring plier jaws can't clear the female square drive end of the ratchet adapter and fit down into the ring pin holes at the same time. If I remember correctly, the ring just screws down and bottoms out against the top of the machined ratchet teeth.

There is no torque value that matters for that ring. Just snug it up tight enough so it won't come unscrewed on its' own when you use the ratchet adapter, that's all that's needed. The less torque you use, the easier it will be to get it apart again in the future, so don't overdo it.

The threads on that ring are quite large in diameter, so it doesn't take much corrosion in the thread channels to make the ring very hard to break loose and remove, so make sure you really need to get into the ratchet adapter before attempting it if the ring isn't unscrewing easily. You don't want to break the tips off of $25+ pliers just to fail at getting inside the ratchet adapter. If the insides are in good mechanical condition and the ring is quite stuck in place, you should be able to get it working smoothly again by letting motor oil seep into the seams overnight. That thin oil will loosen up any existing hardened grease and allow things to move freely again if that's the main issue you are having. If you are able to get the ring off, put a little anti-seize on the ring threads before re-assembly so you are less likely to have removal issues in the future.

If the ring is quite stuck, another alternative is to use a small pin punch that has a tip small enough to fit down into one of the pin holes, but instead of dropping the tip vertically down into one of the pin holes, set the pin punch tip partially in one of the pin holes at a 45 degree angle. Then tap the back of the punch with a mallet or hammer in the direction that will loosen the ring threads. That will give you a better chance of getting it broken loose if it's really stuck, because it will introduce an quick impact shock force to the threads which might be enough to overcome any corrosion. That procedure will deform one of the pin holes a bit in the process though, so only use that technique as a last resort if the ring is hard to remove and you really need to get inside the ratchet adapter.

I just did a quick test in my shop-

Knipex 4421J21 snap ring pliers fit my Snap-on F-67 perfectly.
Knipex 4421J31 snap ring pliers fit my Snap-on S67 perfectly.
 
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rcorn1031_0

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Oct 17, 2022
Messages
16
Thank you very much for that informative reply . My Primary interest is to inspect the internals before I start using them when needed . I purchased them both used in a sweet deal on ebay that also included an s77 that just has an internal snap ring and was easy to disassemble , clean , inspect and lubricate prior to reassembly .
I do not really expect to find bad pieces because they both ratchet fine but this is with no load applied . I just want to know that when I need them , Their use will not result in some unintended injury .
 

joel_400

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Oct 16, 2022
Messages
405
Location
Nw ohio
Just a thought but to avoid the injuries possible you could break whatever loose without the adapter, then add the ratchet adapter after its broke loose, save the wear and tear on the adapter.
Joel
 
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rcorn1031_0

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2022
Messages
16
Update to original post .
I purchased the specific pliers mentioned by another member . And Just like him they worked perfectly . The nut on the S67 was rusted and required saturation with Sea Foam “Deep Creep” after minimal heat application and Mild Percussive Shock Therapy around the entire circumference of the nut before it finally freed up and came out . I cleaned out the old dried lubricant and re-lubricated the internals following a thorough inspection and reassembled both the adapters .
Thank you to everyone that replied and provided helpful information .
 
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