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A new work bench thread!!!

Ryan

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Hey fellas, I recently got word that I have a new ride coming into the stable and it has finally gotten me motivated to tackle my new 3-car garage. As it currently sits, my garage is a run-of-the-mill attached 3-car... I need to turn it into a decent workshop (fabrication, welding, maintenance, some painting).

First step?

WORKBENCHES!!!!

I have a long wall that I would like to build built-in workbenches on. I thought this would be a perfect opportunity to call for pics... What do you fellas got?
 
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boiler7904

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NW IN
It will be interesting to see what people post. I'll be building mine this weekend. It's going to be something like this (minus paint).

The main work surface will be 6'-8" long x 2'-0" deep with a 2'-8" long x 1'-6" deep area to set a tool chest on. I know those are somewhat odd sizes but it fits the space I have to work with. The bottom shelf will be used to store power tool cases. I'll set Rubbermaid Containers on the floor under the shelf where the two boxes are. The area under the tool chest is for shop vac storage. I'll post pics on Sunday night.
 

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MAINIAC

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new hampshire
IMHO Having the tool box on the end is nice for access but it limits the length of the bench. I have one open end on my bench so when I get going with something oversize, it can overhang the actual bench. Just a thought from someone that has reorginized the workshop like way to many times. Russ
 

SuperKid

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Indiana
I've got a few ideas for workbenches made of metal, and a few made of wood. I've got an idea for a teardown bench with a fluid collection system. My ideas for metal workbenches are all weld together, so right now I'm trying to come up with a metal table that can be dissasembled. I'm still working on CAD drawings and plans. I'll post a few up when I'm done with them.
 

SuperKid

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Here's an idea. Just a plain workbench with a backsplash to keep things from rolling off the back. It's simple construction out of 2x2 square tubing and a sheet metal top. It has a single shelf to add extra storage space and stability to the piece.
 

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SuperKid

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Here's an idea for a teardown table. It's made out of 2x2 square tubing and sheet metal. There's a trough in the back to catch fluids. The top is 1/2" lower in the back, and the trough is 1/2" lower on the right side. Out of sight is a drainage mechanism. It is a pipe that comes straight down 3", then a 45* elbow to another 8" or so of pipe, then a valve, then another 45* elbow, then 2" of pipe again. To drain the trough, simply put a bucket under the drain, and open the valve. I'm also trying to come up with a center drain with a catch pan like you see on alot of commercial teardown benches.

Oh yeah, you can see it has wheels on it, so it's able to move around the shop.
 

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snorvet

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I bought two Sears workbenches for $88 each and put them end to end. I had to cut the tops to fit, but there working ok so far.

det2.jpg
 

gahi

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Moab, UT
I think one of th ebest ideas I have seen is to place 2" receiver hitches along the underside of the bench, then have your different tools, like a vice, sheetmetal forming tools, all plug into these receivers. that way they can be stored easily and set up with out taking any additional space. I dont have any pics but its really a slick setup

Gary
 

comquat1

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snorvet said:
I bought two Sears workbenches for $88 each and put them end to end. I had to cut the tops to fit, but there working ok so far.

det2.jpg

Was this recently that you got those at that price? Was there a sale/coupon involved? I just looked and sears doesn't have anything close to those at that price.
 

joecaver

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Dallas, GA
Here are a few pics of my new bench. I bought the frame as surplus at work for $15.00 and sanded and painted it. I was going to use a formica type top that would have cost close to $100.00 but found this solid maple butcher block top at http://www.lumberliquidators.com/home.jsp for $189.00 so I got it. I stained it and added some poly. The bench is high enough that my roll aways slip right under.

IMG_0176.jpg

IMG_0177.jpg

IMG_0175.jpg
 

snorvet

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comquat1 said:
Was this recently that you got those at that price? Was there a sale/coupon involved? I just looked and sears doesn't have anything close to those at that price.

I couldnt believe the price either. There was another post earlier that a guy got them for about $110 each. So I went to the Sears website and this workbench was one of the "hot buys" or specials shown on the tools page. I ordered off their website and picked them up.
 

Cword

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Calgary, Alberta
Bench Tops

My favorite source is old solid core wooden doors. They're thick, strong, cheap (due to steel fire door upgrades.) and at least 30 inches deep.

Mike
 

AndrewM

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Waco, TX
That butcher block countertop is just too pretty. I couldn't use it. ;)

I'm a top surface mauler. Nothing is off limits. Welding, chemicals, heavy stuff dragged across it, improper use of hammers and chisels, etc. I ain't shy about working over a work bench. ;)

I have a large table picked up at a surplus place for $20 that I use. It's got all of the above marks on it, but it is still upright. Eventually I'd like to have a workbench with a big slab of metal on top. Maybe some day. Until then, the old table it is... For the top of a couple of roll around toolboxes, I've got 3/4" MDF on top. Basically keeps dings and nicks off the toolboxes. MDF is cheap. But it does smoke and kinda smolder when welded on, and it does absorb liquids and get beer mug sweat rings. ;)
 

Cebby

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AndrewM said:
MDF is cheap. But it does smoke and kinda smolder when welded on, and it does absorb liquids and get beer mug sweat rings. ;)

I thought I was alone in sending smoke signals to myself... I hate the rings - they get raised up after absorbing the liquid. BUT - are less apt to smoke as much after getting wet.

I love the hitch receiver idea. I saw a bench like that which had axle housing supports coming out of it. I plan to make one of my own.

I'm working on a steel welding table that can serve dual purpose by having a wooden skin to mount over the steel. I initially planned to do it the other way around, but didn't relish lifting a heavy plate of steel every time I wanted to weld something. I don't have room to have both...
 

whizzerick

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Montreal, Canada
I used a relatively fast and inexpensive method to build my cabinets.

I start with basic, 'Home Hardware' offerings in standard sizes.
A tremendous help, as they go up in a flash and can be used right away...

c1.jpg


Then 'dress up' the base cabinets with simple,
screwed-on pocket-joined framing and doors
(all pine - the inner panels are yet to be installed in this pic).

c2.jpg


A dash of chrome hardware over a Dark Mahogany stain/polyurethane combo
(from Minwax - a GREAT product).

And VOILA! Instant 'vintage' style cabinets...

c3.jpg


The counter surface is actually a rubber flooring material.
It cleans up nice, is easy on fragile items and can be replaced at will...
 
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comquat1

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snorvet said:
I couldnt believe the price either. There was another post earlier that a guy got them for about $110 each. So I went to the Sears website and this workbench was one of the "hot buys" or specials shown on the tools page. I ordered off their website and picked them up.

I hate you.... :p :p Just kidding, I'm going to be diligent in trying to get the same deal by keeping a better eye on Sears.com
 

ralfs56

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Ann Arbor, Mich.
I found a bowling alley that was closed and was being gutted. Bought a lane for $8.00 / ft. 42" wide, the first 18 ft maple, the other 40 ft in pine.
Made one 6 ft bench with a maple top (split the top down to 30" wide). 4x4 pressure treated posts w/ 2x6 stringers...nothing special, just solid. I'll need to make a steel top for this one, it'll see greasy - heavy metal parts occasionally.
Built a group of base cabinets from 3/4 inch ply, using the pine alley as the counter top, about 22 ft of cabinets / counterspace in all, 30" to 34" wide, depending.
Pain in the a$$ to deal with all the nails in the alley, but it's already finished and solid. I'll also add some maple trim around the cut edge. Should look good when the cabinet area is completed.
Maybe some pics for ya after the drywall dust and paint tarps are gone.
 

wilbilt

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I have a few benches. Sorry, no pics right now, but I'll post some.

One is a typical homebuilt wood bench with a plywood top. Ho-Hum. The fact that all the materials are recycled/salvaged means that it was completely FREE.

Another bench is actually an old food service steam table. It came from one of the lodge halls (Moose, Elk, Oddfellows, who knows?) and at some point had a laminate-covered plywood top added over the steam well. I have always thought it would make a nice teardown bench with that well space underneath (it has a drain valve). Other thoughts have included hinging the top, filling the well full of ice, and having a benchtop beer cooler.

Lately, I have been suspecting the well might be made out of copper, so it might go to the scrap man. :)

The third bench I made out of a large grating that once sat in front of the lobby doors at an elementary school. It was flush with the concrete and had a metal tray underneath. I guess it was supposed to catch the mud from peoples' shoes back in the days before sidewalks, and when people actually wore shoes.

I welded up an angle iron frame for it and attached some pipe legs. I mostly use it to weld on, but after all of that foot traffic over the years, it isn't really very flat.

A nice platen table would be much better:

http://www.strikertools.com/Striker_platen_tables.htm

Will
 

wilbilt

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whizzerick said:
I used a relatively fast and inexpensive method to build my cabinets.

A dash of chrome hardware over a Dark Mahogany stain/polyurethane combo
(from Minwax - a GREAT product).

The counter surface is actually a rubber flooring material.
It cleans up nice, is easy on fragile items and can be replaced at will...

Very nice job on those! :thumbup:

What kind of "rubber flooring material"?
 
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whizzerick

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Ryan, I purchase this VERY handy 'pocket hole jig' kit for 50$:

c4.jpg


With a miter saw, standard dimensional lumber and this jig, you can build VERY strong, square frames in minutes. Put on a plaid shirt and you feel like Norm Abrams...

Basically, the 'structural' part of the cabinets are bought (made of melamine, easy to clean) and the 'cosmetic' part is owner built.

In these pics, you can see how the main 'facing' frame is actually screwed to the base cabinets, and the rest of the elements (doors, drawers) are 'inserted' as they are fabricated, for that old style 'face frame' look...

c5.jpg


c6.jpg


For the doors: I build the frames, then use a router to cut a 1/2 step to receive the 1/4 inch plywood for the center section.
 

whizzerick

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wilbilt said:
Very nice job on those! :thumbup:

What kind of "rubber flooring material"?

This stuff, it's a very popular commercial option:

rubber_flooring_image.jpg


Sometimes late at night, I 'gloss-it-up' with Armor All and lay freshly chromed or polished items on the workbench.
Then I just stand there and stare...:)
 

hguerrero

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fort worth, texas
Where can we find that rubber flooring material? HD?

Henry

whizzerick said:
This stuff, it's a very popular commercial option:

rubber_flooring_image.jpg


Sometimes late at night, I 'gloss-it-up' with Armor All and lay freshly chromed or polished items on the workbench.
Then I just stand there and stare...:)
 

Toolmaann

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Elk Grove, Ca.
Sorry about not having better pics of it, but here's my homebuilt bench.

9 ft. long, recycled (locker room benches) solid maple top 1 3/4" thick 29" deep. Sits on shopbuilt birch ply cabinets. 3 pieces with the center drawer section, so that breakdown and moving is at least somewhat manageable. 30" high. Also trimmed out (baseboard) with some recycled gym floor maple.

105179.jpg
 

bens

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Indianapolis
Hawkeye2,
That workbench on casters is great:thumbup: . Do you have any more detailed pictures of it? What size casters are those?
 

Quadworks

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Des Moines, Iowa
Theres got to be more of you guys with pics of you benchs!! I'm in the process of building mine and still need more ideas. Let's see some more. Good or Ugly!!
 

atch

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Columbia, Missouri
however you build your benches, let me suggest you leave a space about an inch and a half wide right below the front top surface (on the front vertical survace) and the entire width of the bench. mount plug-mold stip there and make up a cord to plug it into a wall outlet down below. that way you have easily accessible electrical outlets every 12" (or whichever plug-mold strip you buy) right in the front where it's handy. wall outlets are ok, but your cord is less in the way plugged into the front of the bench right below where you are working.
 

cybin

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Hellbay, WI
I made this out of 2x2" steel tubing. The top is an old treadmill running deck. Pretty much made to a price.

-Cybin

dscf0517dg8.jpg
 

MGUY

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cybin said:
I made this out of 2x2" steel tubing. The top is an old treadmill running deck. Pretty much made to a price.

-Cybin

dscf0517dg8.jpg


How was the frame constructed ? was it welded or bolted together.

Thanks.
 

DIGGER_DAVE

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Got an IKEA store nearby??

Stop by and check their clearence specials.

Cabinets - especially kitchen - that were used for displays; are usually sold at about 25% of the original cost - which is cheap to begin with - make excellent shop cabinets.

Two walls of my shop are lined with various combinations of base cabinets, drawers and cupboards. I used a double thickness of 3/4" plywood for the bench (base cabinets) tops and had 14 ga. steel broke with a 4" backsplash and a turn down front lip.
To keep the steel from rusting, I had them powder coated. (yeah, the coating does get scratched a bit; but they are easy to clean!)

P.S. - No; I don't work for IKEA!! :D
 

MGUY

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joecaver said:
Here are a few pics of my new bench. I bought the frame as surplus at work for $15.00 and sanded and painted it. I was going to use a formica type top that would have cost close to $100.00 but found this solid maple butcher block top at http://www.lumberliquidators.com/home.jsp for $189.00 so I got it. I stained it and added some poly. The bench is high enough that my roll aways slip right under.

IMG_0176.jpg

IMG_0177.jpg

IMG_0175.jpg


Joecaver, is your workbench frame metal or wood ? it looks real nice.:beer:
 

joecaver

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Sep 22, 2005
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Thanks, It's metal with height adjustable screw type feet on the legs. It was in good shape when I bought it and just needed to be sanded and painted.
 

ersatzs2

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Aug 9, 2006
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Mercer County, New Jersey
what have others experienced w/Stainless?

Just got the estimate for two 8' stainless tops: $1900!!! Those are just the covers; I'd have to make some plywood subframes. Whew. LIsta quoted $800 for butcher block.

What have others seen for stainless tops?
 

Inetmonkey

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Sep 18, 2006
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San Jose, CA
DIGGER_DAVE said:
Got an IKEA store nearby??

Stop by and check their clearence specials.

Cabinets - especially kitchen - that were used for displays; are usually sold at about 25% of the original cost - which is cheap to begin with - make excellent shop cabinets.

Two walls of my shop are lined with various combinations of base cabinets, drawers and cupboards. I used a double thickness of 3/4" plywood for the bench (base cabinets) tops and had 14 ga. steel broke with a 4" backsplash and a turn down front lip.
To keep the steel from rusting, I had them powder coated. (yeah, the coating does get scratched a bit; but they are easy to clean!)

P.S. - No; I don't work for IKEA!! :D

Dave,
I had this idea initially as well, and I found even buying all new IKEA cabinets would have been cheaper than buying garage-specific ones from someone like Sauder and you have more choices in the layout. However someone here mentioned that they were pretty thin and may not hold up to abuse. I've found most IKEA furniture I've seen to be of very high quality and pretty solid. How long have yours been in place and how are they holding up?
 
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