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A question about a very old vise

e3pres

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Update on Page 2

Pics added below.

I was recently given the vise that my great-grandfather used in his blacksmith shop during the depression. It is a very cool piece with a lot of history and I plan to use it regularly along with a smaller Wilton Cadet.

The vise works very well, but has more slop that I would like. When changing direction, it will take about two complete turns to engage. This is due to the fact that there is 1/4" or more axial play where the lead screw floats in the moving jaw. I was going to shim the screw so I have disassembled it as far as I think I can, but the lead screw doesn't seem to come out of the moveable jaw. The cap on the end where the handle comes through does not seem to be removable so I can't push the screw through the front, and there is a conical piece on the other side that prevents the screw from being removed the other direction. The conical piece doesn't appear to be removable. Do the caps typically press on and off? I was expecting to find a pin or a set screw or something, but it looks like one solid piece.

This is really hard to describe without a picture. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them. I'll try to get a picture up this evening.


Thanks,

Adam
 
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russlaferrera

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Adam, My 1st thought/guess is most of the pressure on a vice is when you tighten the screw. Therefore the screw should come out toward you. Check the conical ring close for a pin. The pin may have been ground down to blend in with the ring.
 

bmwpower

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Adam, My 1st thought/guess is most of the pressure on a vice is when you tighten the screw. Therefore the screw should come out toward you. Check the conical ring close for a pin. The pin may have been ground down to blend in with the ring.

+1

Probably the case. Get some picts up. Any name on the vise?
 

Uncle Buck

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Old vises are notorious for having hidden pins that are commonly installed flush to the surrounding metal casting of the body; it is not even uncommon for the jaws to be pinned to the body of the vise from the top with little to no indication where the pins might be (Columbian) I have even found pins installed in the base upside down to secure the leadscrew nut to the main body casting before. Even knowing the brand could perhaps help alot as some of the detail breakdown prints for what goes where are sometimes still available from the manufacturer to aid in dis-assembly. Pics would not hurt either though.
 

jay_imok

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does the vise open or close long distances by turning the handle 1/2 or 1 turns and then just pulling/ pushing the jaw? could be the play in the worm is designed to enable this feature.
 
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e3pres

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I have some pictures of the vise. I couldn't find a pin anywhere, but it looks like the screw may be pressed into the handle. I've also attached a picture of the Brand. If anyone knows anything about this vise, I'd love to hear it.

DSC_0011.jpg


DSC_0012.jpg


DSC_0013.jpg
 

Uncle Buck

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As the name on the vise implies it came from that company and they were located in KC MO. I have a considerably smaller KC Scale Company vise; I asked my pop who is 80 and native of KC MO. what was the scoop on the scale company. It has been a few years and I do not recall the details of why they made vises or anything, all I can tell you is their primary thing was being a scale company. BTW, I think a few more pics might still be in order on that vise. ( I doubt you are going to get any help from the original mfg, as in prints etc as I had originally thought)
 
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russlaferrera

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Pic. shows me the ring comes off. I would cut the ring, get a pipe or a collar that fits the shaft, drill a hole thru the pipe &. shaft for a pin.

Remember there is very little pressure on that part. It only opens the vise.
 

Uncle Buck

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Pic. shows me the ring comes off. I would cut the ring, get a pipe or a collar that fits the shaft, drill a hole thru the pipe &. shaft for a pin.

Remember there is very little pressure on that part. It only opens the vise.

I would have to agree with your thoughts on this.
 
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e3pres

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I think I see what is going on here now. I thought that the notches at the retaining ring were part of the joint where the screw was pressed into the handle section, but after looking closer, I think the screw/handle is all one piece and the notches are marks from a chisel that was used to deform the screw enough to prevent the retainer from moving forward. I see what you guys are talking about with the new retainer and a pin. This design was obviously not meant for disassembly. (Of course I doubt anyone in Kansas City at the time thought that a 4th generation would still be using this vise in 2007!) I'm going to try persuading the retainer to come off without cutting first, but I doubt I will have any luck. I hope to get back to work on it this week. When I do, I'll post more pictures of my progress.

Thanks for all the suggestions!
 

Uncle Buck

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Thank Russ, he is the guy that actually solved the puzzle, I just chimed in after he actually shed enough light on things so that I could see what he was talking about!
 
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e3pres

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bmwpower,

Thanks for the link! I also have the anvil that my great grandfather used. It is a 100lb model and I think it is from the same company. I'll have to check it this weekend. I'm also going to look for a copy of that book.


Adam
 
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e3pres

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A quick update.

I was trying to file the deformed section of the screw and drive the retaining ring off, when my grandfather, observing my progress, suggested that I just drive the ring backwards to give myself more space to file. :tard: (It is bad enough when I look over obvious things like that, but it is even worse when there is someone there to catch me. :lol_hitti Two light taps with a hammer later, it was well clear of the deformation and I had plenty of room to file. I think rather than shimming the handle and re-damaging the screw, I'm just going to move the retainer back to take up the slack and drill a hole for a pin to keep it in place.

I'm still bead blasting pieces in preparation for a coat of POR-15. More pics soon.
 
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