a question about making a straight wall

[Dickey]

How is it done?

I had never quite figured out what I wanted to do with my loft until I saw HIRISC's shop and learned what a kneewall was. I liked the idea a lot and put it in my mind to build one of my own as soon as I got my other projects where I wanted them. Since I'm throwing a New Year's party in the shop again this year, I thought it might be a good idea to at least have a boundary of some sort upstairs and began cutting out bits of the floor and installing the framing.

I have 48" 2x4 studs attached to every other joist in the floor (32" OC) as well as the toe board. Ultimately this will create a 40" wall height upstairs and allow for full 4x8 sheets of drywall for finishing out the side facing into the shop. The frame is solid, just crooked at one end and I have no idea how I should practically address the trouble. I leveled the individual studs before they were secured to the joists and I leveled the upper horizontal pieces as I attached them but there is a wave to the whole show.

the wave can be seen down towards the garage door, would it be reasonable to do another horizontal piece secured to the nearby support post to pull that edge back towards the loft?

I will run a temporary 2x4 handrail down the stairs as well but ran out of time this evening. Also, the one 8 foot section that is offset from the others next to the 55 is on purpose. That section will be removable when the whole thing is completed so that I can still use my lift as a service elevator for heavy items.

 

[jdieter]

using a string line horizontally at the center and full length of the wall, pick a gauge , maybe a 6" long 2x4 and set the string line off the studs so the 2x4 is at the gap with the majority of the wall studs. Make a partial horizontal saw cut with the offending studs nudge them in or out to fit the gauge gap and nail or screw a scab on the side across the saw cut. Harder to explain than it is to do.

 

[Alchymist]

Looks like either the 2X4 verticals are not plumb, or some of the 2X4's are bowed. Line up on a string, and loosen the bottom of the offending 2X4's, (pivot on the flooring), and when the rail aligns with the string, screw the 2X4 back.

If the 2X4 railing is what's bowed, add a straight 2X4 horizontally to the rail and pull the railing into alignment.

 

[Dickey]

Thanks guys!

These mild wood working projects are fun but often remind me why I do software development for a living and wrenching for a hobby. I must have started, removed, then restarted putting in the floor joists three or four times before I was comfortable that I was doing it right...which turned out to be just adequate. While it isn't in any danger of falling down, I know I could make it better if I had it to do over again.

 

[Full Size 66]

Other than using a string line for alignment as you build the wall you could puy your 2x4s on top of the studs to form the top plate. As long as you have some fairly straight material the top plate will hold the studs a bit straighter.

 

[Capt Chrysler]

Thanks guys!

These mild wood working projects are fun but often remind me why I do software development for a living and wrenching for a hobby.

Software Development!! No freaking way!

Nice Shop!





Capt. Chrysler

 

[volvo]

..
Top your wall off with a true 2x6 or 2x8 to give it a finished look. Then any minor wall differences will be no longer be noticeable to the eye.

 

[Nighttrain]

X2 on the top plate. Use the longest one you can find (12') or even a double top plate. Having that 2x6 on its side offers only fore and aft and not side ways stability.

 

[Dickey]

Other than using a string line for alignment as you build the wall you could puy your 2x4s on top of the studs to form the top plate. As long as you have some fairly straight material the top plate will hold the studs a bit straighter.

I would except that I don't have anything to cover it and I don't want to encourage anyone to set their beer on the railing while visiting. When I finish out the wall, the top will be rounded to avoid the tempation of placing items on it.

 

[John McA]

Greetings,
Suggest perhaps using expanded metal mesh or welded wire mesh in lieu of plywd...or plywd perhaps only in the removable spot, hinged to the lift.
Good call on objects falling - suggest adding a rounded top cap.
Min. Ht. for a guardwall should be 42 in. above floor finish anyway.
Should handle 200lbs pt load from any direction.
Top of stair handrail should be 34" above nosing.

Good luck,
John McA

 

[Alchymist]

Best of both worlds - cut the vertical 2X4's off at a 45* angle, attach 2X6 top rail.

 

[Dickey]

Best of both worlds - cut the vertical 2X4's off at a 45* angle, attach 2X6 top rail.

I owe you a beer. I like that idea a lot.

 

[cvorkian]

First, you need to "crown" your lumber w/ all "HIGH SIDES" facing same direction.

Second, lumber moves with moistures changes. I suggest a 2x4 "top plate" that is then "capped" by a 2x (6-8 depending on preference) as a handrail.

Corners should be 4x4, thru bolted.

The 2x4 will need to be placed such that the sheet rock has a solid nailing blocking, specifically, 2X4 is at 48" from floor. THIS allows the 2x(6 to 8) to be a finished edge fron and back.... even route out a reveal or edge to finish it all off. Over lap the 2x4 joints mid span with a solid blocking exactly the width of the opening.

The hand rail or cap needs to offset the 2x4 joints by ATLEAST 2 bays... and bevel cut the joint, glue and biscuit... then screw.

ADDED BONUS, screw in top most 2x (hand rail cap) from underneath before sheet rock, then completely clean. Doug Fir would be nice, clear coated.

THIRD, thru bolt, dont toe nail. will NEVER loosen and safest as a railing. Use 2 per stud. For that matter, I always screw my walls together, much more secure... lessens movement and loosening over time.

Hope this helps!

 

[Dickey]

Thanks again for everyone's help. I ended up pulling a string that was 2" or so from the vertical supports. Upon doing that I realized that the reason the banister was crooked was that the floor was crooked. When I built the floor, I dressed it off the walls in the shop. The shop is a pole building and had apparently twisted a little but with the floor it wasn't quite so obvious aside from a minor gap in the flooring at the toe board. I unscrewed the last 8' of banister, unscrewed the last 8' of the toe board and sawed the joists to true them up to the rest. I used 3/8ths bolts to put a 4x4 at the end and then reattached everything. There is a slight wave at the end with the upper 2x4, but I think it might be from sitting so crooked earlier. I'm going to check on it today after work and see if I need to do any shimming. I also installed the hand rail on the stairs though I ran out of time to tie it into the rail on the loft. I hope to get that sorted out this evening.

I have not yet decided what I'm going to do for a legitimate top rail. I suspect I may end up doing a 2x6 that's flat but attaching some manner of decoration (pipe, tubing, etc) to make it useless for drink storage.

I didn't have my phone with me to take pictures but when I get back out there I'll make sure to snap a few.

 

[Dickey]

Took some pictures this evening:

There is a twist in the far top rail piece from the wave that was already there but I believe I can shim it away or at the very least, dress it up in some manner where isn't noticeable. Just the same, I'd not have such a sturdy wall if you guys hadn't pointed out how to do what I needed. I'm still needing to figure out how to put a 4x4 where the upper railing meets the staircase railing, but since the staircase railing is temporary and will be replaced with a steel handrail when I get time, I'm not too worried about it for now.


btw - do any of you guys have any opinions on how to dress out the carpet I'm using to cover the inner face of the knee wall:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131517

 

[green.bubbly]

That straightened them pretty darn good.

 

[Dickey]

It did and it made the whole show a lot stronger. Barely moves when I put my full weight pushing it out at the center. Fairly impressive crew we have on tap here.