To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

A Warning About Lock Nuts

Wamsutta

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
10,878
Location
Amarillo, Texas
The lock nuts that came with the Monroe shock mounts that I got today grabbed the threaded studs too hard. Before the nut was fully tightened against the mount plate, it started spinning the threaded stud that was pressed into the mount. The only way to get the mount back off was to cut the threaded stud with a Dremel. I managed to gently back the other nut off before it spun its stud too.

These aren't nylon insert lock nuts. They are the prevailing torque type. The Monroe nuts were supposed to mimic the factory nuts, but they grabbed way too hard; they were practically seized on there. The factory lock nuts don't bite in anywhere near as hard. They grab just enough to where they don't free spin.

My lesson learned was never again use lock nuts where a pressed in stud is involved unless I know exactly where the nuts originated from and the name of their manufacturer. Basically, if they start to get tight real fast, don't keep turning them; stop and then gently back them off.

902998.jpg


DIN980-Prevailing-Torque-Type-Hexagon-Lock-Nuts-CZ327-.jpg
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,728
Location
SE Michigan
I feel your pain. The OEM fasteners are soo much better in fit, metallurgy and coating than anything that comes in an aftermarket parts kit. Unless I know its permanent deformation (yielded) fastener I'll reuse the one I just took off unless its absolutely crusty.
 

2ndGearRubber

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
Messages
14,185
Location
Pittsburgh
You basically need air tools to install those; to overcome the force of the locking tabs. I usually pitch that style, and replace with a standard nut and a touch of blue lock-tite. Same final result, WAY easier to service.
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,377
Location
Reading
can get in world of pain using some of the junk fittings on these aftermarket parts, we tend use oem or original ones taken off if condition permits .
being picky with aftermarket brands helps too but that something you only learn if dealing with it daily ...
 

gatlibs

Banned
Joined
Oct 8, 2018
Messages
429
Location
N/A
It doesn't look like there was room for a nut buster, but do you think that you could have made a slot in the stud with the Dremel to hold the stud from spinning with a slotted screw driver?
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
We put a drop of oil on almost every bolt or nut we install,,, usually penetrating spray but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, seems some people have more problems with this type of thing than most do.
 

Parrothead

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2014
Messages
5,346
Location
Earth
Funny you mention this, and I’m glad I made the decision to reuse the original factory axle nuts versus the supplied nuts provided with the new hub assembly’s I put on. Same type of lock nuts. The original and cotter pins seemed to work well originally, why change?
 

aka Larry

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2012
Messages
8,056
Location
Eastern, NC
I feel your pain. The OEM fasteners are soo much better in fit, metallurgy and coating than anything that comes in an aftermarket parts kit. Unless I know its permanent deformation (yielded) fastener I'll reuse the one I just took off unless its absolutely crusty.

People who use ARP (aftermarket) would probably disagree. :)

Seriously though, I take your point and agree that the fasteners provided with most aftermarket parts are junk.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

RKA

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2010
Messages
1,744
Location
NJ
I haven't run into these yet, so thanks for the heads up.
 

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,728
Location
SE Michigan
People who use ARP (aftermarket) would probably disagree. :)

Ya you got me there :beer: I do like ARP fasteners. I own a truck touched by some special mechanics. Every one of the 6 flexplate to torque converter bolts was different...different heads, different threads, different lengths.....needless to say I went back with ARPs :cool:
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
Went to take it off to drill the holes, and it galled and seized, and stripped the bolt.
As I mention above,,, we spray them all. There was a site some engineers started about this but it was so slow it went away, dealt with nut and bolt install.
 

noid

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
1,341
That looks like a rather poor design.

I much prefer the oval style locking nuts (used on older BMW's).

lg_914fe79a-0e5b-400f-9b3a-3d889784ac99.jpg


250x250_1183_turbocopnut.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom