AC capacitor?

[DocPhilMD]

Hello guys. Question about my AC unit. A couple weeks ago, condenser would kick on but not the fan. Fan would spin after manual start. I took off the cover and the capacitor was a rusty piece of junk. Replaced it.

Today I turned unit on and it worked for about 5 seconds and shut off. Breaker flipped. Now, it won't turn on at all.

I tried attached some pics and the capacitor I got. Bad capacitor? Wrong capacitor?

Unit is a Lennox HS29-036-1P

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EZPMNBA/ref=sxl1?qid=1465661621&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

 

[mikhett]

Might have a bad condensor fan motor!

 

[mikhett]

Might have a bad condensor fan motor!

 

[DocPhilMD]

How do I test that? Check amp draw at the fan motor?

Any instructional videos on how to check amp draw at the fan? This would be my first time

 

[brewchief]

That is the proper size cap for that unit, do you have a meter that can test a capacitor? Having a cap go bad can happen but isn't that common for it to happen that quickly.

 

[DocPhilMD]

That is the proper size cap for that unit, do you have a meter that can test a capacitor? Having a cap go bad can happen but isn't that common for it to happen that quickly.

I have a basic DMM but now is probably the time to invest in a meter that tests capacitance and amp draw. Anyone you guys recommend?

 

[brewchief]

I have a basic DMM but now is probably the time to invest in a meter that tests capacitance and amp draw. Anyone you guys recommend?

You will get a bunch of guys saying Fluke and they are nice but I feel you are paying for the name to some degree, I use a fieldpiece sc440 and it does everything I need.

 

[James-W]

That is the proper size cap for that unit, do you have a meter that can test a capacitor? Having a cap go bad can happen but isn't that common for it to happen that quickly.

I agree, while certainly possible, it is doubtful the new capacitor is bad.

 

[DocPhilMD]

OKay. I think I figured it out and this is of course a newbie mistake.

The new capacitor came with a yellow mark on one connector. I let my caveman brain that likes colors take over instead of looking at the number of fittings on each connector. I've never worked with capacitors before so I assume the number of connectors is more important than a spray painted dot. So I moved the wires around and it works! I think I had it hooked up wrong.

Here is a picture of the original connectors, how I had it first then how i have it now. Can someone confirm and explain what those different number of connectors means?

In my terms, I changed it so that the wire that was hooked to the two prong connector went to the new 2 prongs (purple), the three prongs to three (yellow) and the four to four (red)

 

[brewchief]

OKay. I think I figured it out and this is of course a newbie mistake.

The new capacitor came with a yellow mark on one connector. I let my caveman brain that likes colors take over instead of looking at the number of fittings on each connector. I've never worked with capacitors before so I assume the number of connectors is more important than a spray painted dot. So I moved the wires around and it works! I think I had it hooked up wrong.

Here is a picture of the original connectors, how I had it first then how i have it now. Can someone confirm and explain what those different number of connectors means?

In my terms, I changed it so that the wire that was hooked to the two prong connector went to the new 2 prongs (purple), the three prongs to three (yellow) and the four to four (red)

There are markings on the cap, fan, common and herm(for hermetic compressor).

In your case the purple goes to fan, red to common and yellow to herm, the colors could be different depending on brand but I looked yours up on davenet to be sure.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

A dual run cap has three terminal groups- "C" (Common), "Fan" (Fan) and "Herm" or "Comp" (Compressor.) The wire from the contactor goes to "C". The wire from the fan start winding goes to "Fan" and the wire from the compressor start winding goes to "Herm".
Looking at the wire colors, you have it right now.

Tommy

 

[manwithtools]

WTF? "Herm" instead of "Compressor"

That is priceless, the most evidentiary proof that the HVAC industry wants to insure they get to do the service work. That's it, I need to take the exams to get the certification to do my own HVAC work.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

"Herm" is no "industry secret" or code word. It's short for "hermetic". Internally driven welded shell compressors are hermetic compressors. I have NO idea why it's that way on the capacitor, but it's been that way since before I started in the trade.

Tommy

 

[brewchief]

"Herm" is no "industry secret" or code word. It's short for "hermetic". Internally driven welded shell compressors are hermetic compressors. I have NO idea why it's that way on the capacitor, but it's been that way since before I started in the trade.

Tommy

Exactly, I figure if they shorten up compressor to com it would get mistaken for common.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Exactly, I figure if they shorten up compressor to com it would get mistaken for common.

Good point, Brewchief! That never crossed my mind in 30 years...

Tommy

 

[DocPhilMD]

I found this meter

Fieldpiece SC260.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLYJG78/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Any reason not to get this one. The SC440 was just a bit more than I wanted to spend.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

You will get a bunch of guys saying Fluke and they are nice but I feel you are paying for the name to some degree, I use a fieldpiece sc440 and it does everything I need.

A Fluke is like anything else, you get what you pay for. Mainly the warranty, Lifetime and VERY accurate. I have several meters and depending on what I'm working on dictates which meter I use.

An example is when I worked at Cummins. I had a customer's generator they said had low voltage output and he wanted it load tested and the voltage checked. I load banked it and raised the Hz slightly, about 1 Hz. I finished and he came to pick it up and went off on my service advisor because it wasn't right. I got called out to recheck it. I did and then the customer whips out this wall socket plug in meter that was reading 117VAC and said the voltage wan't right. I stick my Fluke 87V into the socket tight above it and it says 120.2VAC. Then he starts in about his meter is brand new and is right. After I quit laughing, I went back to my tool box and came back with my Calibration Certificate for mine and asked to see his and asked him which he thought was more accurate, his $20 Camping World Meter or my $700+ Calibrated and tested Fluke?

I like the meter recommended and If I run across one I'd probably buy it. Lowe's sells a Southpoint brand I've used of another guys at work, it's OK but I like the way the functions on my Fluke work better.

The main functions I look for are the ability to test Caps and Hz, most meters will do everything else.

 

[brewchief]

That sc260 doesn't appear to do DC microamps, you need DC microamps to check flame sensors on modern furnaces, if that's not a need then don't worry about it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[DocPhilMD]

which fluke is the do it all for the home self repairman?

Maybe I can put one on the XMAS list

 

[DocPhilMD]

and thank you all once again for all the help.

I am not on here very often but you guys are great when I come on. if you have a medical question, feel free to PM me and we can take it offline

 

[dclassical]

You will get a lot of opinions about meters... I do like Fluke. I have been around high end electronic equipment for a long time (not at home).

I got a Fluke 189 and this is my reasoning for the choice I made.

- The 115 series (116, ...) are made in China and have a one year warranty, so I did not want that. Though I have a friend who does a lot of TV repairs (and electronics) with a 115 and a scope.

- The 28x are very nice with data logging features but I don't see needing them (at home) very often. Can be nice.

- The 87V is extremely nice and precise. I don't feel the need for that at home.

So I got the 189. Well built, not too pricey (~$300 with accessory kit).

If I want data logging, duty cycle, ... I can use my oscilloscope.

 

[914wilhelm]

I have a couple of meters, expensive to not so. I hate to say it but other than a clamp on amp meter this one is a jack of all trades and works decently. I've used it too many times to count to check capacitors. http://t.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html

 

[crabjoe]

I noticed no one mentioned True RMS. If you're going to get a new meter, make sure it's a True RMS meter.

I personally have the Fieldpiece SC440, but for homeowner use, it's a bit pricey and a bit of an over kill. If I were to do it again, I'd probably buy a Uni-T UT210E. It's a True RMS clamp meter, it does capacitance, and can be had for under $40.

My buddy has some older Fluke that he used, when he was an HVAC tech ... He's no longer in the HVAC business, but he wanted a True RMS meter for around the house, so he picked up a Uni-T. He said the measurements are almost identical to his old Fluke and it was cheap.

 

[joel63]

I noticed no one mentioned True RMS. If you're going to get a new meter, make sure it's a True RMS meter.

I personally have the Fieldpiece SC440, but for homeowner use, it's a bit pricey and a bit of an over kill. If I were to do it again, I'd probably buy a Uni-T UT210E. It's a True RMS clamp meter, it does capacitance, and can be had for under $40.

My buddy has some older Fluke that he used, when he was an HVAC tech ... He's no longer in the HVAC business, but he wanted a True RMS meter for around the house, so he picked up a Uni-T. He said the measurements are almost identical to his old Fluke and it was cheap.

What is the advantage of a True RMS meter?

 

[crabjoe]

What is the advantage of a True RMS meter?

Here's a video from Fluke.. It explains way better then I can.

Here's a video from Extech that explains the difference too.

 

[Brian_WK]

The Fieldpiece SC440 is a darn good do it all meter for HVAC and residential use. I have one for work but my home meter is an 13 year old UEI from college. I like both and have not had an issue with either.

Brian

 

[homebuilt burner]

This is a difficult question because everyone works on different things. I am a diesel mechanic and I work part time for a farm equipment dealer. Up until a month ago my Fluke 73 III was all I ever needed. But then, I got working on silo unloaders and needed to check capacitors and the 73 won't do it. So now I am thinking about a 115 (yes they are Chinese) but the 115 doesn't have an amp clamp so I would have to get an external clamp the same as my 73.

So it depends what you want to do. Personally I have a $20 cheapie at home and if I get in deeper than that I take my fluke home from work or borrow someone else's.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

I've been kicking myself in the butter for a while now. I found two Fluke 87V meters on CRAIGSLIST, one for $100, the other for $125, both like new w/box ect. I told a good friend of mine about them as he was wanting one. He asked if it was ok if he got one that was closers to him and I said OK. I go to get the other one and it a Fluke83. The one he got was Brand New in the box and was a certified calibrated with the paperwork and had the Deluxe leads. He still owes me a nice meal.