I have a 1100sqft insulated garage attached to the house that I built last year. I already have heat, but the humidity and heat this summer in Iowa is making it miserable, even when I keep the doors shut all the time and let fresh air in in the morning when it is cool out. I do have a window in it that could house a window unit. there is also a drain in the large bay. I'm considering a stand alone unit, or a window unit to keep the temps and humidity a little more bearable. I'm not looking to turn my garage into a meat locker, just keep it comfortable. Thoughts?
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AC for 1100sq'
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
Falcon67
Well-known member
Probably need more dimensional info, but I can control my 960 sq/ft space with a little more than 19000 BTU, so maybe a good 24K unit would do that space.
shade
Well-known member
Make sure the ceiling in the garage is insulated. Youll get better results
James-W
Well-known member
I will give you my opinion, but I am not an HVAC person so this is not a "professional opinion".
If the garage is well insulated and you don't open the overhead door very often, then I would think an 18,000 BTU air-conditioner would be more than sufficient to do the job. On the other hand, if you open the overhead door quite often you would want at least a 24,000 BTU in order to cool the space.
If the garage is well insulated and you don't open the overhead door very often, then I would think an 18,000 BTU air-conditioner would be more than sufficient to do the job. On the other hand, if you open the overhead door quite often you would want at least a 24,000 BTU in order to cool the space.
Flargen
Active member
Interesting... I was spec'd at 15,000 BTU's for my ~470 sq ft garage. Too much?
James-W
Well-known member
I think a lot of it has to do with insulation. Around here the homes and garages are being built using 2X6's rather than 2X4's so the walls get R-19 insulation in them. The ceilings get R-50 so what you have is a pretty energy efficient structure. Heating and/or cooling is much easier on your wallet if you have a building that is well insulated. In a well insulated 470 sq ft building even a 10,000 BTU air-conditioner would make a big difference.Interesting... I was spec'd at 15,000 BTU's for my ~470 sq ft garage. Too much?
tymbo
Well-known member
My garage is 850 sq. ft. with 10' ceilings. It is well insulated, and I have a 5k btu window air unit mounted through the wall. It keeps the inside nice and cool.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
If you do not what heat, a couple of window units, on opposite sides, are a cost effective solution. Maybe not the cheapest to run.
If you want heat, you need a mini-split heat pump and be sure that it can provide heat, without a resistance strip, to below 0F !
If you want heat, you need a mini-split heat pump and be sure that it can provide heat, without a resistance strip, to below 0F !
Saltpeter
Member
I have an 1100 SqFt garage and just installed a 2 ton (24000 btu) 16 seer mini split, heat and AC. I live in florida and so far the AC works excellent. I fact it gets cold in there.
I have blown insulation in the attic and the R11 I think in the walls, double pane windows, and two insulated double garage doors.
There more to it than just HVAC'ing by SqFt. Many things go into the equation. You don't want to go to big, you won't dehumidify, too small and it will never shut off. Also consider what temp you want your air to be while you are in there, how much sun the building gets during the day, how well its insulated, etc.
I would call in an expert to size your AC, they have specialized calculators they use.
I have blown insulation in the attic and the R11 I think in the walls, double pane windows, and two insulated double garage doors.
There more to it than just HVAC'ing by SqFt. Many things go into the equation. You don't want to go to big, you won't dehumidify, too small and it will never shut off. Also consider what temp you want your air to be while you are in there, how much sun the building gets during the day, how well its insulated, etc.
I would call in an expert to size your AC, they have specialized calculators they use.
RaskyR1
Well-known member
I have a 1100sqft insulated garage attached to the house that I built last year. I already have heat, but the humidity and heat this summer in Iowa is making it miserable, even when I keep the doors shut all the time and let fresh air in in the morning when it is cool out. I do have a window in it that could house a window unit. there is also a drain in the large bay. I'm considering a stand alone unit, or a window unit to keep the temps and humidity a little more bearable. I'm not looking to turn my garage into a meat locker, just keep it comfortable. Thoughts?
I have an attached garage in Minnesota that's just under 1200sq ft with 11' celings and I have a wall/window unit that will easily cool it down to the low 60's when I want it to. I really wanted a mini-split A/C but at the time couldn't justify paying more than double the cost of the unit I ended up going with. I did plan this all out while building the garage though and it was framed to accommodate the unit along with the electrical. I have R21 in my walls and R50 in the ceiling.
25,000 BTU for $600.
Saltpeter
Member
I only have one window I can open, I didn't want to lose that, and the mini split looks clean, unlike my garage.
Marctrees
Well-known member
People REALLY need to stop thinking "Window" "Window"
It's a through wall AC, not a specifically Window AC.
If you have a window to sacrifice, or are renting in Brooklyn, then use the window.
Otherwise....
You put a dedicated correctly sized and framed hole in a wall wherever is best.
I made my RO's slightly oversize 1.5" both ways in both H and W, to accomodate any different Brand of same BTU future replacements.
"Window" Ac's per same btu will range up to APPROX 1.5" h and 1.5" W range.
Marc
It's a through wall AC, not a specifically Window AC.
If you have a window to sacrifice, or are renting in Brooklyn, then use the window.
Otherwise....
You put a dedicated correctly sized and framed hole in a wall wherever is best.
I made my RO's slightly oversize 1.5" both ways in both H and W, to accomodate any different Brand of same BTU future replacements.
"Window" Ac's per same btu will range up to APPROX 1.5" h and 1.5" W range.
Marc
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6768rogues
Banned
I have 1600 square feet with a 14 foot ceiling. I have two window units, a 12,000 btu unit and an 18,000 btu unit. If I keep the doors closed on 90 degree humid days, I can keep the place in the 60s with the small unit. If I open the doors and drive in cars with hot engines, the big one has to be called into action.
I had a 26,500 btu unit through the wall. It died and was going to cost too much to fix, and it hogged electricity. New ones were different sizes, and it was going to be an ordeal to have two or to replace one if something happened. I have 4 windows on each side, so two that are opposite have units in them. They are easy to take in and out seasonally, if one dies the other can hold me over, and they are really easy and cheap to replace. Screw that through wall stuff unless you go mini split and spend a lot of money. I would rather spend the money on a new window to put a window unit in.
I had a 26,500 btu unit through the wall. It died and was going to cost too much to fix, and it hogged electricity. New ones were different sizes, and it was going to be an ordeal to have two or to replace one if something happened. I have 4 windows on each side, so two that are opposite have units in them. They are easy to take in and out seasonally, if one dies the other can hold me over, and they are really easy and cheap to replace. Screw that through wall stuff unless you go mini split and spend a lot of money. I would rather spend the money on a new window to put a window unit in.
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OzarkMan
Well-known member
I run a 36k in my 1088sqft garage. Its summer in AZ and I keep the one 10x8 door half open so I can duck in and out while working on the trailer in the driveway. AC keeps up just fine with door in that position. Cools wife's car down in about an hour when she pulls in. I wanted quick cooling and got it. I haven't noticed any difference in power bill along with running another 14k unit for a two room closet.
Milton Shaw
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2011
- Messages
- 4,835
A lot of people don't really evaluate windows when they work out a/c size. I have a 1200 sq ft room that has 36,000 BTU central system. The room has 11 large 30x64 windows in them that really take a lot of cooling to overcome the heat load they generate. They are double pane windows but that is still just an R2 compared to the walls at R15 or so. Also 3 doors add to the low R value of the room. Those have to be taken into account when sizing a A/C-HVAC system. Go bigger since you probably won't leave it running 24/7 to take care of heat soak and would like to work cool within an hour of turning it on.M These windows are 15 to 25 foot off the ground do they do not make a security risk as nobody can reach them.
black00lightning
Well-known member
In my 960 sq ft shop with 12 ft ceiling I have a 3 ton heat pump. The shop has 2 3' x 6' windows, a man door and temporary plywood carriage doors. Works very well!