AC help

[Catadj78]

no you didn't, your the one that has no clue, if you read my post it assumed it was up flow furnace in the basement, it was before we new it was in the attic.
and if you and another guy couldn't swap out a A coil, line set and condenser in 4-5 hrs............you wouldn't work for me very long, come on think about it you already have the 240 volt wiring the pad, the 4 wire thermostat wire.

we use to these jobs all the time we'd sit in the restaurant till 9 o'clock and be done by 2pm

also just for the record were talking about a 2.5 ton unit not 3.5 and in the beginning it was for AC only.........read the entire thread before you post.

This why I hate to post to these ac threads there's always someone trying bust yours balls and doesn't really contribute anything to the thread when your just trying to help someone that has no experience with hvac work.

by the way you paid way too much for that equipment

I was told I had to change everything out. I can usually figure things out on my own but this whole house AC thing is much different than the car thing. I found enough info and YouTube videos to figure out replacing the AC system in my old 96 z71 and even bought the tools to be able to do it on my own. So I have gauges and even a vacuum pump. It blew ice cold before I blew the engine a few months back so now my beater truck takes a backseat to finishing the shop and apparently a new AC unit for the house

 

[mrobins297aaa]

I know you said your furnace was in the attic, I'm assuming it's a horizontal furnace with a horizontal coil. Is that correct?
when you say you have to replace everything. You mean just the ac components? not the furnace also? right.
whenever this stuff ends up in the attic it's a whole new ball game.
if you are using the existing furnace and just swapping out the coil you almost for sure need some new duct work, I don't care what anybody says the ductwork is the hardest part of the job because you just can't go and buy it off the shelf, it needs to be custom made.

the easiest way is to find the leak and fix it, if it's inside that coil well maybe it's time to replace the whole system. I would not just replace the coil.

I don't think you ever said how old the system is?

here is a link to something you might want to take a look at:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Ton-1...392653?hash=item3f6391170d:g:YXkAAOSwMHdXRIr2

now this has a upflow coil so maybe they would be willing to swap it out for this coil for a few bucks more
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodman-2-2...701579?hash=item465c16b08b:g:IRsAAOSw8KNW~VM6

 

[mrobins297aaa]

as far as doing this job yourself, if your as handy as you say you are then you just need someone that can help you a little bit and steer you in the right direction. and if you do one thing at a time and don't be in too much of a hurry.

if you could find someone to help you get that coil installed in the attic that's a big part there.

can you do the 240 volt?, it'll probably hook right up (it's two wires and a bare ground), as far as the 24volt there's only two control wires there so they'll hook right up also.

I would first pay someone to reclaim the r22 then you can remove the old system.

how hard will it be to run the lineset? does it run threw the walls or is it exposed on the outside of the house? I would not use the old line set.

I would also pay someone to solder the lineset and pull the vacuum and set the charge, you have to make sure you have the correct piston installed to match that coil to the condenser.

use common sense, we use to say "this stuff is 90% common sense and a car that starts"
you can look at those links and especially the one with the coil you can click on the spec pdf and it will give you the actual dimensions of the case..........see how it compares to what you have?, will it fit thru the opening to the attic (that's important....lol)

if you have to have it right away then pay the 5K.........you don't have to be a genius to see that even paying someone for the hard stuff you can still save probably half

 

[bazar01]

Sounds like this is what I need. I'm not scared to spend the money but I don't want to be taken advantage of either and I do think that it may be happening in my situation.

I did not read the whole post. Send me a message with pictures of the indoor unit set up with model #s. Maybe I can point you in the right direction. It's starting to get hot down here in the south. Yesterday it was in the 90s already.

I am in Leesburg, GA. Where in Alabama are you?

 

[Catadj78]

as far as doing this job yourself, if your as handy as you say you are then you just need someone that can help you a little bit and steer you in the right direction. and if you do one thing at a time and don't be in too much of a hurry.

if you could find someone to help you get that coil installed in the attic that's a big part there.

can you do the 240 volt?, it'll probably hook right up (it's two wires and a bare ground), as far as the 24volt there's only two control wires there so they'll hook right up also.

I would first pay someone to reclaim the r22 then you can remove the old system.

how hard will it be to run the lineset? does it run threw the walls or is it exposed on the outside of the house? I would not use the old line set.

I would also pay someone to solder the lineset and pull the vacuum and set the charge, you have to make sure you have the correct piston installed to match that coil to the condenser.

use common sense, we use to say "this stuff is 90% common sense and a car that starts"
you can look at those links and especially the one with the coil you can click on the spec pdf and it will give you the actual dimensions of the case..........see how it compares to what you have?, will it fit thru the opening to the attic (that's important....lol)

if you have to have it right away then pay the 5K.........you don't have to be a genius to see that even paying someone for the hard stuff you can still save probably half

I have a guy that does general labor stuff I pay by the hour when I need help doing anything or just too lazy to do myself that can help me with getting the attic stuff out and new stuff in.

I believe it is something I could handle myself. The line set runs through the outside brick. I believe I would need to come down from the soffit with a new Lin set now to make it easier. The vacuum pump I have now wouldn't work?

 

[Catadj78]

I did not read the whole post. Send me a message with pictures of the indoor unit set up with model #s. Maybe I can point you in the right direction. It's starting to get hot down here in the south. Yesterday it was in the 90s already.

I am in Leesburg, GA. Where in Alabama are you?

Near Selma, Al.

It is getting hot here too. I haven't been in the attic yet and can't right now as I have my lil boy who is just at the age I have about 12 seconds before he gets into something when I leave the room

 

[eddieK]

I have a guy that does general labor stuff I pay by the hour when I need help doing anything or just too lazy to do myself that can help me with getting the attic stuff out and new stuff in.

I believe it is something I could handle myself. The line set runs through the outside brick. I believe I would need to come down from the soffit with a new Lin set now to make it easier. The vacuum pump I have now wouldn't work?

Before you replace the coil...you need to confirm where the leak is.

Based upon the 2 -3 month loss you described this is a large leak...at least large enough to find. Most leaks are at brazed connections and/or schrader valves. Sometimes those cap tubes in the evap coil (you should be able to hear this leak at 350 - 400 psi nitrogen). There will be an oil trace wherever this leak is.

There is a way to test this without reclaiming the refrigerant...

You perform a pump down. This is where you draw all of the refrigerant into the condensing unit. Then you push nitrogen into the system until at least 350 Lbs...then search for the leak. If the leak is in the condensing unit, after drawing all the charge into this unit you will HEAR the leak. If it is elsewhere you should be able to find it. There's usually a liquid line (3/8 pipe) flare connection at the indoor coil, sometimes one at the suction line connections (3/4 or 7/8 pipe). start here.

Once leak is found you have to do an evac...down to 500 microns. then open valves and allow refrigerant back into system.

The way I look at these search and seal procedures is this. They are pricey...650 to 900 depending. BUT...if you do that there is no more recalls with average 300 bill repairs...and the compressor is protected. Losing charge you lose oil and you starve compressor, proper charge protects compressor from over heat.

Compressor replacement is 2500 and up...

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

read post #8 , lets compare apples to apples, basement upflow furnace compared to a attic furnace two different things.

and you can easily do one of these jobs in 4-5 hours if your prepared and have everything you need on the truck.....without being a hack.
also the hole is already threw the wall for the lineset that's another thing you don't have to do.

I'm sure there are plenty of HVAC guys on this site that would concur.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

thank you. I'm glad to see that there is at least one other person here that agrees that this job can be done in 4-5 hours by two guys that know what there doing.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

thank you. I'm glad to see that there is at least one other person here that agrees that this job can be done in 4-5 hours by two guys that know what there doing.

A good tinner is worth his weight in gold when it comes to getting things done fast/right.
When I do installs I let the tinner do his thing 1st,then I follow behind him doing gas piping/electrical/lineset .....
It's not a big deal doing a change out in a day.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I was sure glad to find this thread and read the posts. I am in Oklahoma and replaced my upstairs heat/air system with a 3 ton Trane in 2005 for $5000. Then, in 2012, I replaced the downstairs heat/air with a 3 ton Trane for $7000. On Monday, I was advised both my evaporator and condenser coils on the upstairs unit are leaking and they recommend replacement. I was quoted $7500 to replace just the air unit, leaving existing 12 year old furnace or $11,900 to replace the heat/air. I told them I would need to do some additional research.

 

[Rockhead261]

thank you. I'm glad to see that there is at least one other person here that agrees that this job can be done in 4-5 hours by two guys that know what there doing.

A good tinner is worth his weight in gold when it comes to getting things done fast/right.
When I do installs I let the tinner do his thing 1st,then I follow behind him doing gas piping/electrical/lineset .....
It's not a big deal doing a change out in a day.

 

[pop pop]

I'd suggest another HVAC company. This one is ripping you off and is lazy if I understand what he didn't do. Have you asked him point blank to show you the leak? For most HVAC companies, there is simply more profit in a change out than a repair.