AC Soft Start Kit

[930dreamer]

Anyone using one of these?

 

[bonneyman]

Interesting.

 

[gahrajmahal]

What are you “soft starting”? I put a solid state soft start on my air compressor, not as big as your avatar, but I like it much better than the “BANG” start of the old contacts. Next up is to find a low cost one for my Dewalt chop saw.

I purposely bought a Bosch table saw because of its soft start. I love it, and even my noise averse grandsons like using it too.

 

[WildBill]

I installed one a couple months ago. Dropped the starting amperage of my 20 year old Carrier 3.5 ton house A/C from 78 amps to 23, and the running amps from 20ish to 13. For June my electric power usage was around 35% less than last June, and our average temp was higher this year. It also very noticeably quieted down the outside compressor unit and my lights no longer flicker when the A/C kicks on. Everything major in my house is gas except the A/C, and my thermostat has been set the same for many years, so I feel pretty confident it made a big difference in power usage. I was worried about the cost so I bought it on Amazon in case it didn't work as good as they say, but I am very happy with it. It is cheaper on eBay if your not as worried about the purchase as I was. And I can also now start my A/C with my backup generator if wanted. I got the ASY-368-X48-BLUE, it has Bluetooth and you can see current draw info as well as program some starting features like delays using your phone.

 

[larry4406]

Watching...

 

[fitter30]

I want to watch the amps not just that first 10th of a second but for the next few seconds. Starting a single phase ac compressor is only takes a max of a second. Wouldn't you think if this was so great compressor manufactures would have this on their more efficient models.

 

[gregs]

I installed one a couple months ago. Dropped the starting amperage of my 20 year old Carrier 3.5 ton house A/C from 78 amps to 23, and the running amps from 20ish to 13. For June my electric power usage was around 35% less than last June, and our average temp was higher this year. It also very noticeably quieted down the outside compressor unit and my lights no longer flicker when the A/C kicks on. Everything major in my house is gas except the A/C, and my thermostat has been set the same for many years, so I feel pretty confident it made a big difference in power usage. I was worried about the cost so I bought it on Amazon in case it didn't work as good as they say, but I am very happy with it. It is cheaper on eBay if your not as worried about the purchase as I was. And I can also now start my A/C with my backup generator if wanted. I got the ASY-368-X48-BLUE, it has Bluetooth and you can see current draw info as well as program some starting features like delays using your phone.

Do you have information from the bluetooth that graphs or explains the overall reduction in power usage? I get that it can soft start by ramping up the inrush and that the compressor operates on a lower amperage than the starting amperage. Just wondering how it could affect the running amps after it starts?

I know you can use a VFD to operate a 3 phase motor on single phase and vary its rpm. But I wonder how it can cause the compressor to use less power?

 

[mike93lx]

I installed one a couple months ago. Dropped the starting amperage of my 20 year old Carrier 3.5 ton house A/C from 78 amps to 23, and the running amps from 20ish to 13. For June my electric power usage was around 35% less than last June, and our average temp was higher this year. It also very noticeably quieted down the outside compressor unit and my lights no longer flicker when the A/C kicks on. Everything major in my house is gas except the A/C, and my thermostat has been set the same for many years, so I feel pretty confident it made a big difference in power usage. I was worried about the cost so I bought it on Amazon in case it didn't work as good as they say, but I am very happy with it. It is cheaper on eBay if your not as worried about the purchase as I was. And I can also now start my A/C with my backup generator if wanted. I got the ASY-368-X48-BLUE, it has Bluetooth and you can see current draw info as well as program some starting features like delays using your phone.

I'm very confused on how this could reduce running amps. Smells like shenanigans

How are you measuring inrush? I'd be surprised if it had the built in metering to do it accurately

 

[Mike007]

I know you can use a VFD to operate a 3 phase motor on single phase and vary its rpm. But I wonder how it can cause the compressor to use less power?

Thats what I was thinking. A frequency drive to slow start the compressor. I hope this is legit and works as claimed.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

Do you have information from the bluetooth that graphs or explains the overall reduction in power usage? I get that it can soft start by ramping up the inrush and that the compressor operates on a lower amperage than the starting amperage. Just wondering how it could affect the running amps after it starts?

I know you can use a VFD to operate a 3 phase motor on single phase and vary its rpm. But I wonder how it can cause the compressor to use less power?

lowering the speed of a compressor (relatively) linearly lowers the power, and thus the amperage.

also, with a VFD, you can lower the voltage at rated RPM if the load isn't there (weakening the rotor magnetizing current, which is created by the stator), thus reducing power draw. it's a pretty standard feature of even older (1990s) VFDs. combine that with sensorless vector ("listening" to the motor), and a VFD can do a whole bunch of stuff.

 

[pcmeiners]

"EasyStart™ - The most advanced & effective soft starter for all A/C applications
EasyStart™ is a one-of-a-kind, custom developed soft starter for single-phase motors like those used in the home and commercial contexts. It employs a 4-part start ramp sequence that is self-optimizing, resulting in the lowest possible start-up current. EasyStart can deliver a start current reduction of up to 75% of a compressor's LRA (locked-rotor amperage). EasyStart is the perfect solution that allows an air conditioner or refrigeration compressor to operate on a generator, inverter, or limited utility power when it would otherwise not have functioned. It can also be applied to air compressors and fluid pump motors."

These were not design to be used on inverter based minisplits for power saving or softstart, they were designed primarily for use on single phase compressors, motors, they ramp up the ac input voltage via a thyristor circuit. Minisplit Inverters already use soft start circuitry.
Inverter minisplits have multiple sensors and programmed variables to use the most efficient inverter setting (power savings), if you have a device which lowers the input voltage to an inverter minisplit your working against the minisplit programming. As to power saving, there is no free lunch in the world (except for headstart kids), if you cut back the power to compressor it slows down, outputs less. Yes it will save money if you do not need the full output of a compressor, be it an air compressor, older minisplit (non inverter) or AC units , and it will provide soft start to non inverter equipment.

"Inverter Mini-split Benefits

Compared to the common on/off controlled compressor, the inverter controlled compressor runs at the proper revolution to provide the best efficiency and reduce losses. When the maximum capacity is not required, the compressor revolution is decreased. This means the input power decreases too, which results in increased system efficiency. Another advantage of the inverter is the ‘soft start’. The compressor starts at minimum speed, avoiding high inrush current [4 to 6 times compressor full load amps] associated with conventional on-off type compressors. ‘Soft start’ reduces the instantaneous peak demand associated with AC equipment starts. "

Conclusion....

Microaire is hoping you do not understand minisplit inverter technology so you buy this unneeded product for your inverter based minisplits.

 

[WildBill]

It takes a couple times for the device to "learn" and reduce the amp draw fully. I could see that happening on my fluke clamp-on amp meter and watched as it took four starts to get down to the best numbers. I installed their app later and the numbers matched my fluke, I needed to use it to turn off their built in delay as it confused my system. I also wondered how it reduced running amps and after reading up on it I am still not 100% sure how it works, but my fluke confirmed it is lower. I would not put one of these on my shop mini-split. I don't see how it would help unless it was just to reduce start up amps but I let my mini-split run 24/7 and just do its thing so even that doesn't seem useful in my situation. I think they really are great for non heat pump applications though, especially for older units. The noise reduction alone was worth the cost to me, I also measured that and it dropped by about 13db, which is very noticeable inside and out. My house AC is a 20 year old 12 seer Carrier 3.5 ton, I assume newer units would not benefit as much. I am hoping it will extend the life of it, when it dies I will install a mini split setup, I put a 24k Mr.Cool DIY system in my shop and absolutely love it.

 

[toplessHO]

A buddy got the smaller unit for his RV and test all the cheapo small generators
to start the RV AC. It works as described.

We installed a soft start on a 4000 hp chiller at a theme park.
Utility Co requested it because of the hit when it came online.
Factory rep tweaked it to go slow but not too slow on ramping up.
Got the entire grid back to less than 2% voltage drop. It was about 6% before.
may not seem like much but its almost like magic to us. Go Benshaw!

 

[Tinkerer2]

I had a generator installed to run part of my home. The Carrier 3 Ton AC would not start so the generator company put in a Hard start unit (Rectorseal 96503 Kickstart T05). After reading about these, it appears they are hard on compressors, etc. because they just dump extra amperage into the system from its charged capacitor. I know it was cheap because they did not charge for it and just included it into the installation. Now I'm thinking that I'd be better served by swapping it out for a MicroAir Easy Start (ASY-368-X48-BLUE). However, from what I've been reading, it seems that decreasing starting amperage may be bad also.
Which would you recommend - changing to the EasyStart or keeping the Kickstart? And why?

 

[Old Man Roger]

I had a generator installed to run part of my home. The Carrier 3 Ton AC would not start so the generator company put in a Hard start unit (Rectorseal 96503 Kickstart T05). After reading about these, it appears they are hard on compressors, etc. because they just dump extra amperage into the system from its charged capacitor. I know it was cheap because they did not charge for it and just included it into the installation. Now I'm thinking that I'd be better served by swapping it out for a MicroAir Easy Start (ASY-368-X48-BLUE). However, from what I've been reading, it seems that decreasing starting amperage may be bad also.
Which would you recommend - changing to the EasyStart or keeping the Kickstart? And why?

Get a bigger generator.

 

[toplessHO]

I had a generator installed to run part of my home. The Carrier 3 Ton AC would not start so the generator company put in a Hard start unit (Rectorseal 96503 Kickstart T05). After reading about these, it appears they are hard on compressors, etc. because they just dump extra amperage into the system from its charged capacitor. I know it was cheap because they did not charge for it and just included it into the installation. Now I'm thinking that I'd be better served by swapping it out for a MicroAir Easy Start (ASY-368-X48-BLUE). However, from what I've been reading, it seems that decreasing starting amperage may be bad also.
Which would you recommend - changing to the EasyStart or keeping the Kickstart? And why?

please quote the minuses of the soft start units
so far I havent found any other than price

 

[mike93lx]

I had a generator installed to run part of my home. The Carrier 3 Ton AC would not start so the generator company put in a Hard start unit (Rectorseal 96503 Kickstart T05). After reading about these, it appears they are hard on compressors, etc. because they just dump extra amperage into the system from its charged capacitor. I know it was cheap because they did not charge for it and just included it into the installation. Now I'm thinking that I'd be better served by swapping it out for a MicroAir Easy Start (ASY-368-X48-BLUE). However, from what I've been reading, it seems that decreasing starting amperage may be bad also.
Which would you recommend - changing to the EasyStart or keeping the Kickstart? And why?

My understanding is that a hard start can help an aging compressor get started faster and a soft start makes it easier on the electrical system when the compressor is starting.

Soft starts are what I have heard of people installing to run a/c when the generator is too small

 

[Tinkerer2]

My AC was 4 months old when the generator was installed.

 

[mike93lx]

My AC was 4 months old when the generator was installed.

Sounds like the generator is too small

 

[gregs]

"EasyStart™ - The most advanced & effective soft starter for all A/C applications
EasyStart™ is a one-of-a-kind, custom developed soft starter for single-phase motors like those used in the home and commercial contexts. It employs a 4-part start ramp sequence that is self-optimizing, resulting in the lowest possible start-up current. EasyStart can deliver a start current reduction of up to 75% of a compressor's LRA (locked-rotor amperage). EasyStart is the perfect solution that allows an air conditioner or refrigeration compressor to operate on a generator, inverter, or limited utility power when it would otherwise not have functioned. It can also be applied to air compressors and fluid pump motors."

These were not design to be used on inverter based minisplits for power saving or softstart, they were designed primarily for use on single phase compressors, motors, they ramp up the ac input voltage via a thyristor circuit. Minisplit Inverters already use soft start circuitry.
Inverter minisplits have multiple sensors and programmed variables to use the most efficient inverter setting (power savings), if you have a device which lowers the input voltage to an inverter minisplit your working against the minisplit programming. As to power saving, there is no free lunch in the world (except for headstart kids), if you cut back the power to compressor it slows down, outputs less. Yes it will save money if you do not need the full output of a compressor, be it an air compressor, older minisplit (non inverter) or AC units , and it will provide soft start to non inverter equipment.

"Inverter Mini-split Benefits

Compared to the common on/off controlled compressor, the inverter controlled compressor runs at the proper revolution to provide the best efficiency and reduce losses. When the maximum capacity is not required, the compressor revolution is decreased. This means the input power decreases too, which results in increased system efficiency. Another advantage of the inverter is the ‘soft start’. The compressor starts at minimum speed, avoiding high inrush current [4 to 6 times compressor full load amps] associated with conventional on-off type compressors. ‘Soft start’ reduces the instantaneous peak demand associated with AC equipment starts. "

Conclusion....

Microaire is hoping you do not understand minisplit inverter technology so you buy this unneeded product for your inverter based minisplits.

Where on the Microair website did you find these quotes? I didnt see anything referencing mini-splits. Everything seems to reference non inverter ac units. The only "inverter" I see them referencing is regarding using a solar inverter to operate an ac unit.

 

[fitter30]

Thyristor-scr can switch up to 25,000 times a second. That on off along with 60 cycle power don't think a clamp on amp meter could read reliable amperage because the power would be so choppy. Like a electronic engineer to chime in. Just like pre led lighting dimmers switch power on and off and didn't reduce voltage to dim bulbs.

 

[Tinkerer2]

Get a bigger generator.

Sounds like the generator is too small

It is a Generac Guardian 24KW running on natural gas instead of propane. Specs state 21KW on natural gas.
Rated maximum continuous load current - 240 volts is 100 propane and 87.5 on natural gas.

AC unit is a Carrier 25HPB636A300 which is AC and a heat pump.
Specs are HERE
Page 7 shows compressor LRA = 75.0, compressor RLA = 16.8 and fan FLA = 0.6.

Generator Specs are HERE

I sort of thought it was strange that it wouldn't start the AC but they said sometimes it happens so they install the Rectorseal Kickstart. Just looked it up on Amazon and it is $30. Micro-Start is $300+.

Could the non-start issue be the continuous load current rating of 87.5 with the 75 used for the AC along with whatever is being used in the house at the time?

So if the Micro-Start will reduce the starting amps required, would it be better for the AC compressor than the kickstart unit? I'd rather this AC unit last a long time and not be damaged by having the wrong extra starting component installed.

 

[Tinkerer2]

Soft starts are what I have heard of people installing to run a/c when the generator is too small

That is what I'm hearing/reading too. But if the unit they installed (which worked when they were here) doesn't damage the AC unit I'm not sure I want to spend the money for a soft start. I did read that since a soft start reduces the energy used, that there could be a savings on one's electrical bill since AC/heat pumps can start roughly 10,000 times a year but it was just a statement and I don't know of any actual proof.

 

[mike93lx]

That is what I'm hearing/reading too. But if the unit they installed (which worked when they were here) doesn't damage the AC unit I'm not sure I want to spend the money for a soft start. I did read that since a soft start reduces the energy used, that there could be a savings on one's electrical bill since AC/heat pumps can start roughly 10,000 times a year but it was just a statement and I don't know of any actual proof.

Your electricity bill at home usually doesn't have a demand component. They are just billing based on power used (KW). Reducing starting load won't help your bill as that power has to come from somewhere, it's just timing. The cap discharges then has to recharge

 

[gregs]

Also there are multiple manufactures of soft start kits as well. I havent researched them all yet, but Soft Start Home is another. If you look on there site there is some additional information regarding energy savings attributed to the inrush/starting cycle. I have a hard time believing that it would amount to a significant amount, but who knows?

If you read there Blog Part 1, it specifically says that it does not reduce running current, only starting cycle current. It "may reduce monthly power costs in states that have peak demand limits which increase the cost of all average electrical rates". So they are clearer in what they promise it can do.

 

[Tinkerer2]

please quote the minuses of the soft start units
so far I havent found any other than price

It had more to do with running a motor with low amps. Maybe my reading was about running with low voltage which would cause higher amps. Gets confusing.

But if the soft start lowers the amps needed to start the compressor motor, how does that work? How would it provide enough torque to turn the motor over? It can't increase the voltage or can it to provide more wattage due t lower amps.

 

[Tinkerer2]

Also there are multiple manufactures of soft start kits as well. I havent researched them all yet, but Soft Start Home is another. If you look on there site there is some additional information regarding energy savings attributed to the inrush/starting cycle. I have a hard time believing that it would amount to a significant amount, but who knows?

If you read there Blog Part 1, it specifically says that it does not reduce running current, only starting cycle current. It "may reduce monthly power costs in states that have peak demand limits which increase the cost of all average electrical rates". So they are clearer in what they promise it can do.

There is also the ICM870-32A (Link). It states that it has a built in Start Capacitor. I guess that is what the Rectorseal unit in mine is. So are these soft start units just a start capacitor with maybe some diagnostic indicators? Or does their "learning" process determine how much energy is needed to actually start the compressor and somehow limits the energy stored in the start capacitor to only what is needed? Thus reducing the potential damage from excessive amps.

 

[pcmeiners]

"Where on the Microair website did you find these quotes?"
Quoted paragraph was not from Microair's website, never stated it was.

"I didn't see anything referencing mini-splits."
Neither did I, but when a company make the following statement "
"EasyStart™ - The most advanced & effective soft starter for all A/C applications." ( this is from Microair.net's first hit on google). They are hoping uneducated people will buy one for their inverter minisplit; likely a decent amount of these unit are sold to inverter minisplit owners.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

"Inverter Mini-split Benefits

Compared to the common on/off controlled compressor, the inverter controlled compressor runs at the proper revolution to provide the best efficiency and reduce losses. When the maximum capacity is not required, the compressor revolution is decreased. This means the input power decreases too, which results in increased system efficiency. Another advantage of the inverter is the ‘soft start’. The compressor starts at minimum speed, avoiding high inrush current [4 to 6 times compressor full load amps] associated with conventional on-off type compressors. ‘Soft start’ reduces the instantaneous peak demand associated with AC equipment starts. "

Conclusion....

Microaire is hoping you do not understand minisplit inverter technology so you buy this unneeded product for your inverter based minisplits.

That's a rather aggressive conclusion. from what I see in the video it replaces the start/run caps with 3rd party electronics, which are fundamentally incompatible with an inverter driven (3ø/BLDC) compressor.

One would damage/be unable to install their soft start on an inverter unit, which would result in returns/unhappy customers. So it would seem they'd want to educate customers enough so they don't attempt it.

There's no reason you can't use a VFD/Thyristor based soft starter on a "single phase" induction motor. Even with a centrifugal switch, the limitation is normally "when does the start cap explode", so if you're replacing that, I see no reason this can't be a viable, non-snake oil product.

 

[AA/FC]

I'm very confused on how this could reduce running amps. Smells like shenanigans

How are you measuring inrush? I'd be surprised if it had the built in metering to do it accurately

It's basically a variable frequency drive. I own and use one. It works as advertised.

My A/C startup amps went from 74-75 down to 14-15. My A/C now starts on my 9000 watt inverter generator with not even a hiccup.

 

[AA/FC]

Don't confuse a "hard Starter" with a "Soft Starter". They are two completely different things.

A hard starter is an extra start capacitor that will kick the compressor with extra current when starting.
A soft starter does exactly the opposite. It uses electronics to slowly ramp up the current required to start your compressor over time. I'm not an electronics genius but apparently it's very similar to how a variable frequency drive works.

The one thing i do know for sure. The Micro Air easy Start device does exactly what it claims to do. No snake oil here....

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I had a generator installed to run part of my home. The Carrier 3 Ton AC would not start so the generator company put in a Hard start unit (Rectorseal 96503 Kickstart T05). After reading about these, it appears they are hard on compressors, etc. because they just dump extra amperage into the system from its charged capacitor. I know it was cheap because they did not charge for it and just included it into the installation. Now I'm thinking that I'd be better served by swapping it out for a MicroAir Easy Start (ASY-368-X48-BLUE). However, from what I've been reading, it seems that decreasing starting amperage may be bad also.
Which would you recommend - changing to the EasyStart or keeping the Kickstart? And why?

that's not how things work. a capacitor stores energy. it doesn't "push" it anywhere.

Get a bigger generator.

that's nice, unless you're gonna slobber up your massively oversized generator because it's now sized for inrush, not actual loads.

please quote the minuses of the soft start units
so far I havent found any other than price

they ain't cheap. nope!

It had more to do with running a motor with low amps. Maybe my reading was about running with low voltage which would cause higher amps. Gets confusing.

But if the soft start lowers the amps needed to start the compressor motor, how does that work? How would it provide enough torque to turn the motor over? It can't increase the voltage or can it to provide more wattage due t lower amps.

current required is based on the torque you're asking the motor to produce. by DOL'ing a motor, you're basically asking it to produce infinite torque. soft starters/inverters/Y-∆ allow you to NOT do that.

Don't confuse a "hard Starter" with a "Soft Starter". They are two completely different things.

A hard starter is an extra start capacitor that will kick the compressor with extra current when starting.
A soft starter does exactly the opposite. It uses electronics to slowly ramp up the current required to start your compressor over time. I'm not an electronics genius but apparently it's very similar to how a variable frequency drive works.

The one thing i do know for sure. The Micro Air easy Start device does exactly what it claims to do. No snake oil here....

well, a "hard start" can't really "push" more power in, it can only allow the windings to draw what is available. and a soft starter isn't JUST a current limiter.

 

[AA/FC]

well, a "hard start" can't really "push" more power in, it can only allow the windings to draw what is available. and a soft starter isn't JUST a current limiter.

I never said a hard starter would "push" more current.... In fact, the word "push" never appears in my post anywhere. lolol

And likewise, I never said a soft starter was a current limiter, either.

Please do not put words in my mouth. (even though we are both typing, not talking) lolol

 

[Tinkerer2]

Don't confuse a "hard Starter" with a "Soft Starter". They are two completely different things.

A hard starter is an extra start capacitor that will kick the compressor with extra current when starting.
A soft starter does exactly the opposite. It uses electronics to slowly ramp up the current required to start your compressor over time. I'm not an electronics genius but apparently it's very similar to how a variable frequency drive works.

The one thing i do know for sure. The Micro Air easy Start device does exactly what it claims to do. No snake oil here....

So is the hard starter more damaging to the compressor over time than a soft starter?

I guess everyone is saying I should make the switch to a soft starter. Is that correct?

current required is based on the torque you're asking the motor to produce. by DOL'ing a motor, you're basically asking it to produce infinite torque. soft starters/inverters/Y-∆ allow you to NOT do that.

what is DOL'ing?

 

[BSWS]

I just installed the Easy Start on my motorhome AC in May. I used the AC almost every day in June and July and it works great. My purpose was to be able to run our AC on my sister in law's 20 amp garage receptacle. Without the Easy Start the initial surge would trip the breaker, after adding it it never tripped. Microaire makes it clear that it isn't intended to reduce energy costs, it just reduces the surge when the compressor starts. It sounds smoother every time the compressor starts.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

So is the hard starter more damaging to the compressor over time than a soft starter?

I guess everyone is saying I should make the switch to a soft starter. Is that correct?


what is DOL'ing?

start windings/capacitors are not meant for continuous use. assuming a hard start kit is on a motor with a start winding, then it was likely added because another configuration wasn't providing enough "kick" (torque) to get the motor and load spinning.

the answer is "it depends".

DOL: Direct On Line. means you power the motor with something simple like a standard contactor. it's the hardest start you can do with a motor. soft starters, Y-∆ starting (3ø only), or inverter starting are all methods of soft starting.

inverter starting is the only one of the above that I'd call "controlled" starting, where you can specify exactly how fast/how much torque/how many amps are applied to the motor (and load).

 

[Tinkerer2]

the answer is "it depends".

Ok, what does it depend on whether I should make the switch to a soft starter?

 

[fitter30]

When the compressor starts up, the capacitor creates a phase shift in the motor’s start winding, providing extra starting torque to get the motor going and is only in the start winding for a second.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I had a generator installed to run part of my home. The Carrier 3 Ton AC would not start so the generator company put in a Hard start unit (Rectorseal 96503 Kickstart T05). After reading about these, it appears they are hard on compressors, etc. because they just dump extra amperage into the system from its charged capacitor. I know it was cheap because they did not charge for it and just included it into the installation. Now I'm thinking that I'd be better served by swapping it out for a MicroAir Easy Start (ASY-368-X48-BLUE). However, from what I've been reading, it seems that decreasing starting amperage may be bad also.

Most (all?) electric motors that have high starting loads have a start capacitor. The cheap soft starters are usually just a very large capacitor which can make the starting current WORSE !

Without getting into the gory details of electrical engineering, when a capacitor is discharged (empty) it "look like" a dead short, trying to "fill up" instantaneously (high current draw).

The MicroAir Easy Start "limits" how fast that start capacitor is charged (maybe from less than 10 msec to over 100 msec) Once full, the capacitor discharges and gets the motor spinning. There is a centrifugal switch that cuts out the capacitor once the motor is up to speed.

 

[theoldwizard1]

inverter starting is the only one of the above that I'd call "controlled" starting, where you can specify exactly how fast/how much torque/how many amps are applied to the motor (and load).

The MicroAir (single phase) has those items "built in" (non-adjustable) to the design.