Access Under Low Cars

[gtr cook]

Just thought i would see how others get under a lowered car. What do you use, home made ramps or a commercially available product like race ramps?

I have been driving on blocks of wood to get the side of the car high enough to squeeze my jack under. Takes a while and gets annoying, especially on my sloped driveway. I have a low mount jack but it touches the side skirts before getting to the jacking point.

When the garage is finished i would like an efficient and secure way that i get enough access room under the car.

Ideally i would have a scissor lift but i will need to save up before thats a possibilty.

Lee

 

[A**holes Garage]

I have 4" clearance on my vette.

I have a set of Race Ramps for oil changes, etc. also a low profile hydraulic jack with cross members for higher lifts and jack stand placement.

I find myself pulling out my (2) electric scissor jacks for a quick lift, pulling the wheel, brake access.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Ton-2-200-LBS-12V-Electric-Scissor-Jack-Auto-Car-Lift-/291101737338

 

[pattenp]

These....

 

[GCncsuHD]

These....

Yep. Fully adjustable and custom fit to your needs. Cheap too.

 

[sands35]

A suggestion on those ramps. I use similar ones too.

A ~6" long lip made out of luan or other cheep thin ply attached to the underside of the ramp so the tires put weight on them before they hit the thicker part of the board. That way the tire won't just push the boards away before they put weight on them.

 

[n8n]

Great idea, I was thinking Masonite. I guess whatever is cheaper gets the nod.

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[apexit1]

How low are we talking? my car is pretty low and I manage to fit a block and a jack with minimal effort

 

[gtr cook]

How low are we talking? my car is pretty low and I manage to fit a block and a jack with minimal effort

3" or so, will check when i get home tonight. The issue is the side skirts, they hang down by 3" from where you would jack the car up. The arm on the jack cannot rise at a steep enough angle without hitting them.

These....

These look really nice, alot better than mine!

 

[xtremek]

I use wood ramps to get my F-150 high enough to get a jack (I take the saddle off my regular floor jack) under the truck currently sits 4 1/2". I haven't figured out what I'm going to do when I drop it lower and I get a flat. I like Sands35's idea, consider it stolen!

 

[MonoxieChild]

I use the same set up on my Mazda6. Ive purchased two low rise jacks specifically for the car, and both still cant clear my side skirts, or front bumper without some 2x8's to drive up onto.

 

[Blue XJ]

I use my floor jack, its a low profile one, haven't met a car low enough that it won't go under. And if I do, it wouldn't be able to make it up any driveways in the area anyway.

 

[RalphInCA]

I have the same problem with my sports car.

I found some ramps at oreily that just baaaaarrrely fits under the front bumper so I can drive the car up without scraping.

Then I can get my jack under, then jack stands. It's annoying.

 

[sammerdog]

I second the use of stacked 2x's.

Low ground clearance definitely can present it's own set of problems:

 

[pattenp]

I need to clarify that the picture I posted of the wood ramps are not mine. The ramps are like ones I've had and used. The pictured ones came off the web. I can't take credit for the fit and finish of the ramps pictured.

3" or so, will check when i get home tonight. The issue is the side skirts, they hang down by 3" from where you would jack the car up. The arm on the jack cannot rise at a steep enough angle without hitting them.



These look really nice, alot better than mine!

 

[JimVonBaden]

I use Rhino Ramps to get my Sky up high enough to get under, then jack it higher and use jack stands if I really have to work under it.

 

[Sovereign-1]

I use Rhino Ramps to get my Sky up high enough to get under, then jack it higher and use jack stands if I really have to work under it.

I use the exact same ramps for my Sky.
My Camaro is too lowered to be able to use them and my floor jacks cannot get under the pumpkin or the engine crossmember without having to drive it up on makeshift wooden ramps. It's quite a pain if I have to get all 4 wheels off the ground on it. I really want a lift before too long.

 

[gipraw]

I use Race ramps. They are a little pricey but work great.

 

[gtr cook]

I need to clarify that the picture I posted of the wood ramps are not mine. The ramps are like ones I've had and used. The pictured ones came off the web. I can't take credit for the fit and finish of the ramps pictured.

Very honest. The basic design is better and more akin to race ramps that i have been looking at.

 

[gtr cook]

I use Race ramps. They are a little pricey but work great.

They look perfect, its the price thats putting me off, it gets very expensive very quickly.

 

[Bronson]

I have that problem with My Triumph Spitfire. I need to get it high enough to do a full fluids change and inspection. I don't have a lift, but I have some good 2x6's. I guess I will have to build some of those.
My FX4 has plenty of clearance, Clarence.

 

[A**holes Garage]

They look perfect, its the price thats putting me off, it gets very expensive very quickly.

Another great fetaure of the Race Ramps is that they're light weight, hang on the wall

 

[bshusted]

A lot of it depends on where the jacking locations are on the car. I have very little clearance on my A4 and will usually drive up on chunks of 2x8 as others have suggested. I've also used the stock scissor jack from the pinch weld to get the car up high enough to get my "low profile" HF jack under it. At some point I plan to make/buy a jack pad that will hook over the pinch weld so I can safely jack on it with the floor jack.

 

[poor1]

Forget all these Heath Robinson devices and buy yourself a pair of hydrauilic steel ramps.They are not cheap, they are very substantial and stable. You will never regret it for the the conconvenience they bring. Wish I'd had mine year ago.
In their lowered position you can drive a low car onto them without a problem (an Audi TT for example). You can raise or lower them at will at the front or back - Anything up to about 15 inches Engines are far earier to work on when the car is raised about five or six inches and you can raise of lower the car withouyt having to start the engine, which might be impossible if it's drained of oil or coolant for example. You can lower one ramp independantly leaving that side of a stand and remove a wheel. Endless possiblities. They can be bought much cheaper abroad than in the UK, even taking account of Ciustoms Duty and Carriage.
That's my first contribution to your forum.

 

[Jay Sco]

A lot of it depends on where the jacking locations are on the car. I have very little clearance on my A4 and will usually drive up on chunks of 2x8 as others have suggested. I've also used the stock scissor jack from the pinch weld to get the car up high enough to get my "low profile" HF jack under it. At some point I plan to make/buy a jack pad that will hook over the pinch weld so I can safely jack on it with the floor jack.

I've used this on my MX5 and the wife's minivan. Works pretty good, I've also heard hockey pucks work too.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5681&parentid=0&stocknumber=35-70000

As far as the OP, like many others here I use 2x6 sections then the floor jack.

 

[gipraw]

They look perfect, its the price thats putting me off, it gets very expensive very quickly.

It can, but they are worth it imo. I have a set of ramps and two sets of 10" lift blocks. They work great for getting things up in the air to work on them while leaving the suspension fully loaded.

Another great feature of the Race Ramps is that they're light weight, hang on the wall

Yep. I have mine hanging on the wall right now.

 

[bartz32tt]

As already stated, I use 2x8" ramps I made with 3 steps. The steps go 1-2-3-2 in case you pull to far forward - instead of an abrupt drop off which would cause the car's sideskirts to slam the ramp. Works great, been using it for over 5 years now.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

I just built mine out of spare wood I had. Worked perfect and didn't cost me anything but some time. I like ramps but wasn't spending $150 for them just to lift the car enough for a jack/lift.

-Nigel

 

[ludakris04]

Rhino ramps don't like front wheel/AWD cars.. They kick out on the way up. I am waiting to try the wood for my WRX...


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[bshusted]

I've used this on my MX5 and the wife's minivan. Works pretty good, I've also heard hockey pucks work too.
https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=5681&parentid=0&stocknumber=35-70000

I've been thinking of making one like this


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050K3P8Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I want it to actually mount to the jack so there isn't a chance of slipping off while jacking.

 

[38Chevy454]

Stacked wood 2x6 or 2x8, cut on 45 degree with steps work great on my lowered vehicles. Regular type ramps will not work, need more gradual approach. The wood works just fine for me.

 

[kerrynzl]

A suggestion on those ramps. I use similar ones too.

A ~6" long lip made out of luan or other cheep thin ply attached to the underside of the ramp so the tires put weight on them before they hit the thicker part of the board. That way the tire won't just push the boards away before they put weight on them.

I did something "sort of" similar to what you suggest.

I stapled a bit of old seat belt webbing along the topside for the tyre to roll over.

Then got real "High tech" I folded a loop in the end so I could hook it up on my wall when not in use.

Those wooden ramps are quite good in the previous pics

 

[exmaxima1]

Some cars, like my wife's Lexus, don't seem to have anywhere to use jack stands when I change the oil, or fix the exhaust. I have a long low-profile jack so clearance is not a problem. I use the central jack point of the car (there's usually points at the front and rear ends), and then lower tires onto raised wood blocks. I have lips on the blocks so the car can't roll off.

I haven't figured out yet what I will need to do if I ever need to change the brakes

 

[n8n]

BMW is the same way, they expect the car to always be serviced on a lift from the jacking points. If I ever do lose my shop privileges I will need to get one of those long low profile jacks to raise the car up. The jacking points are plastic blocks behind the side skirts and you could place your stands there, but those are also the obvious places to lift the car. Supposedly you can lift the whole front or whole rear but no floor jack that I have will reach those points. Probably still need to drive on boards to get even a low-pro jack under the car; I need boards to get on the Rotary two post lifts at my friend's shop.

 

[volleyball]

I second the use of stacked 2x's.

Low ground clearance definitely can present it's own set of problems:

I am wondering what this pic has to do with jacking. I don't see any car or jack in the pic.

 

[spoonsports86]

wood ramp like the pick posted then a jack

 

[exmaxima1]

BMW is the same way, they expect the car to always be serviced on a lift from the jacking points.

Yep, I bought the long low-profile jack when I bought my BMW w/Sport suspension. And yes, you can lift the entire front (to replace water pump/radiator) or the rear (to fix leaky fuel filler).

This jack will reach:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...BwwBA&iact=rc&dur=3775&page=1&start=0&ndsp=43

 

[f150skidoo]

Rhino ramps don't like front wheel/AWD cars.. They kick out on the way up. I am waiting to try the wood for my WRX...

X2 my brother has a VW Golf and he had one kick out and the ramp high pointed the car on the rocker panel.

 

[JimVonBaden]

Rhino ramps don't like front wheel/AWD cars.. They kick out on the way up. I am waiting to try the wood for my WRX...

X2 my brother has a VW Golf and he had one kick out and the ramp high pointed the car on the rocker panel.

Are you guys referring to the ramp slipping and not gripping the ground when driving up on it? I'm confused as I have used mine on both front and rear wheel drive. You need to make sure the rubber grippers are in place and that you firmly jam the ramp under the tire before you start moving. It may be harder on a very smooth floor.

 

[n8n]

Are you guys referring to the ramp slipping and not gripping the ground when driving up on it? I'm confused as I have used mine on both front and rear wheel drive. You need to make sure the rubber grippers are in place and that you firmly jam the ramp under the tire before you start moving. It may be harder on a very smooth floor.

That has happened to me when using angle cut 2x8s. The wheels hit the ramp, you give it a little gas, and the rear boards shoot out the back of the car while the front ones may push forward. The idea of using thin plywood or Masonite glued/screwed to the bottom of the boards should prevent this. I'm definitely going to do that when I make my next set (which I should do soon, one of the ones I am using now is starting to split because I just used cheap pine.)

 

[kmcphee]

I built these out of 2 x 12 LVL beams left over from my house build. I guess you could make them out of regular wood, the LVL was free for me.

Lift the car and set these under the tires, the angled pieces hold the tire in place. Of course, if you are doing any brake work etc. these won't work but for access under the car they work great. I have never felt safe under a car with jack stands so I came up with these.