Acid Etching and Metal Building

[Pcchase]

I am about at the point to do my floor. I have recieved my epoxy coat and plan on getting started on prepping the floor this weekend and hopefully painting by next weekend.

I have a metal building so am debating on acid etching vs diamond grinding, I am thinking that I can use tape and visqueen to try and keep the acid off the metal but lets face it stuff happens.

The issue i have with diamond grinding is that it is in additional expense i could do without and I have no idea where to get one or how to run it so worried i may screw up the floor.

 

[Edger]

Acid, diluted acid and acid fumes are not friendly to metal. Can you search for a diamond grinding contractor to come and do that part? The cost might be worth it because rental shops are less than a 50% chance of getting the right equipment and diamonds for your floor. If you get it wrong you will lose the rental costs too.

 

[kyles974]

pcchase, I'm glad you posted this. So many things to think about, I never thought about this in my new build.

 

[rugerlady]

I would try to diamond grind, acid is not a friend of metal.

 

[Pcchase]

I have been calling around but it seems most of these people only want to do polishing on expensive marble jobs and terrazzo over in Palm Beach and not be bothered with a garage out in Redneckville!!

 

[kyles974]

I would try to diamond grind, acid is not a friend of metal.

Not trying to steel your thread Pcchase, just thought this would be a good time/spot to ask this:


Rugerlady, or anyone else that may know.....

Three questions (I know a search would most likely get it, but please forgive me, I think my search button no longer has the letters on it)


1. Does new concrete need etching?(I think I read, yes)

2. How much time untill I must start the coating after etching?(I would have to think, as long as the "etch" doesn't wear off, then anytime)

3. Can I etch the concrete after about 2 to 3 weeks after the pour?

See, my concrete is getting poured next week. Going to order a metal building today. Takes about 3 weeks for delivery and install for the building. So I was thinking of doing the etching before the building its built.


Kinda newbee questions, but again, please forgive me:tard:......... I'm kinda searched out at the time.

Thank you.

cool new smiles had to use it>

 

[Falcon67]

From experience:
1) Yes. The surface is worked to make it hard and close the pores, you need to open it up.
2) You need to dry the floor good. 2-3 days in hot weather, usually. You should not be using the surface during that time - everything out, etch, dry, apply.
3) Wait at least 30 days for new concrete to cure.

With your delivery schedule, put up the building first but make sure they don't drip anything on it from the machinery. Then do your floor prep. If you open the surface with etch the work will wear away the surface IMHO. Leave it hard for the work. A contractor friend says places like Walmart will fine or eject contractors that put anything on their retail floor before it gets sealed.

 

[rugerlady]

I have to agree with Falcon, though, most concrete is dry enough after 24 hours. The etch should hold up for quite a while, just make sure its clean and dust free when you get ready to coat.

 

[kyles974]

thanks. (for the reply)

now I have a problem If I wait untill the building is up because of the acid/metal.




I do know that the concrete does need 30 before applying the epoxy,
but I guess I will;

>pour concrete

>let it cure as long as possiable (heck, it may 30 days before the building gets here)

>etch a few days prior to the metal building being built
(by the way, it's just a carport style building, the worst thing they will have is ladders on concrete)

>clean/dry

>epoxy

 

[darkk]

I have a metal building so am debating on acid etching vs diamond grinding, I am thinking that I can use tape and visqueen to try and keep the acid off the metal but lets face it stuff happens.

The acid is very diluted and it is only going to be on the floor 20-30 minutes maximum time. I doubt it will do any significant damage to any metal it touches, probably just leave a dull looking finish. You are going to wash to neutralize after. Is the metal raw? No coating?

 

[kyles974]

The acid is very diluted and it is only going to be on the floor 20-30 minutes maximum time. I doubt it will do any significant damage to any metal it touches, probably just leave a dull looking finish. You are going to wash to neutralize after. Is the metal raw? No coating?

Not sure what acid you are refurring to, but I painted a/my garage floor with a paint years ago at my first home. The paint called for muriatic acid. Everything on my walls, old farm tools for looks, all rusted up really bad. Even an old double barrel shot gun I had up there for looks rusted bad. (I was young and dum, I guess) (when I do things like that now, I say, just old and don't care)

 

[Pcchase]

Well couldnt find anyone that wanted to work so going to rent one from sunbelt and have at it tommorrow after I get back from hunting. Any tips on doing this?

 

[Pcchase]

I personally thought about this long and hard and to me it is just not worth using acid and probably causing some type of damage to the building.

Also what should i do with the saw cuts? paint over them, caulk them, leave them?

Thanks

 

[Edger]

You might consider finishing the painting first, then you should have no trouble. Wait at least 30 days for the slab to cure because chemicals from the curing process are still coming out until then, acid etch which is easy and quick for DIY, muriatic is hydrochloric is spirit of salts, just different names for the same thing. Then coat the floor being careful not to do it in hot sun because the coating might cure very quickly and also dust that might blow onto the wet coating, wait at least one week, then put up the building.

After acid etching wash the saw cuts thoroughly and either blow them out or use suction because the slab will be slow to dry if they have mud in the bottom of them. A slab cleaned thoroughly will dry in the open in a few hours. Fill the cuts with caulk from your epoxy supplier, follow instructions, then coat.

 

[kyles974]

sorry Pcchase

looks like Edger got mixed up a little with my postings

I want ask any more on your thread

 

[pd59]

I personally thought about this long and hard and to me it is just not worth using acid and probably causing some type of damage to the building.

Also what should i do with the saw cuts? paint over them, caulk them, leave them?

Thanks

With diamond grinding, the key is to take your time and let the machine do the work. If you try to force it, you could gouge up the concrete, and it will transfer through the coating. Also, it will be dusty and loud. A dust mask and some earplugs are nice for that.

As far as the control joints, that just depends whether or not you mind the joints showing. You could do your floor, then caulk them, or you could fill the joints in with a flexible epoxy and grind or cut them flat with a razorblade prior to coating, or you could just leave them open.

 

[AlphaGarage]

BTW:

If grinding is not an option there are chemical etchers that are non-toxic and also non-corrosive. A bit more spendy, but sometimes the best method.