Acrylic floor -- pitting!

[mdavis]

I had a BASF Acrylic floor installed. This is a MMA - Methyl methacrylate.

Degadur "Speciality Resin Systems" B71 primer, R61 body and color coat, flakes, R71 top coat #1, sanded, and top coat #2 w/Al Oxide. 4 coat process. All in one day. Took them about 12 hours however because I also had 8" speedcove w/corners (and they were miter-saw challenged). Prep was done with a diamond grinder and it looked great.

B71: http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com...es/buildingsystems/products/items/Degadur_B71

R61: http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com...es/buildingsystems/products/items/Degadur_R61

R71: http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com...es/buildingsystems/products/items/Degadur_R71

Why Acrylic?

Downside: It has less tensile and compressive strength vs. Wolverine Epoxy, for example, and is also very very expensive...It also stinks quite badly when it is being applied (see MSDS). Yet, I don't think the strength will be an issue as it is so far beyond anything I will put in there -- and I am putting industrial woodworking equipment in there!

Upside: The material is much thicker than Epoxy (~100mils), has a lifetime warranty (I'm sure it has lots of loopholes), moves better (note that many Epoxy floors have Acrylic sealers for the cracks), and is a 1-day process. It is often used in commercial applications, such as stadiums and restaurants. Also, it can be re-coated quite easily...I am told.

It always comes down to the installation however...

The company I hired does a lot of commercial work here in the Portland area.

I think the speedcove work set them back quite a bit and they were were rushing to try to finish by midnight.

So, what happened? I think they walked on the floor (with spikes!!) while it was still drying...and now I see brown-sandy pits...They broke right through the flakes.

I've attached 5 photos:
2 Close-up views
Before & After (which looks quite nice IMO, which is too bad)
..and the dreaded PITS.

Now I'm wondering what I should do next -- and I wouldn't be surprised if no one on this forum has ever used this product...It isn't very DIY friendly.

Options:
1. Do nothing - I'm worried water could get into the pits and compromise the floor.
2. Fill - likely a rigged job??
3. Re-do the top coats...re-broadcast flakes, top coat, sand, top coat #2.

Help would be appreciated. I'm meeting with the company this weekend to discuss options.

Regards, -mark

 

[thegarageguy]

The only option you have is for them to touch up those areas or recoat. Don't know how spikes would break through every coat down to the crete. From the pics is does not look 100 mils at all...you can see its thin from the spike shoe marks. Also, never seen mma so shiny....you sure that's what you paid for?

 

[mdavis]

The only option you have is for them to touch up those areas or recoat. Don't know how spikes would break through every coat down to the crete. From the pics is does not look 100 mils at all...you can see its thin from the spike shoe marks. Also, never seen mma so shiny....you sure that's what you paid for?

I saw the 5gal containers labeled B71, ...Who knows if that is what they put in it...they did sand the top coat. If they re-coat, do they have to do all 4 coats, just a top-coat, just body+2 top coats, etc?

I will use a digital gauge to measure the thickness, but it does appear to be in the area of 100mils or .1 inches.

Trying to locate and patch every holes would seem impossible?


-mark

 

[thegarageguy]

100 mils is inbetween a 1/16" and 1/8" inch.....from the spike shoe imprint pic it looks thinner but I may be wrong. Take multiple core samples or use a digital gauge to make sure you got what you paid for.