Acrylic question: trying to make stand for camera collection

[ymc226]

I have about 50 cameras I want to display on the shelf. Looking on the web, I can get 1/2 inch thick clear arcrylic pieces cut to spec quite cheaply.

I was thinking of a generic 8x10 inch base on the bottom, having a clear+ hollow PVC tube (about 1 inch in diameter and up to 6 inches long) sticking up perpendicular to the base and then attaching a smaller 1 inch x 6 inch piece horizontally (parallel to the base) where I could drill a hole and attach the camera via its tripod attachment point.

My plan was to attach the base plate to the top plate (through the hollow tube) via a long hex bolt and nut.

Some of my questions are:

1. how do I drill a countersink in the acrylic to let the hex bolt head on one end and the nut on the other end to sit inside the plastic pieces? The head height would be 5/32" and width across the flats would be 7/16" so the countersink hole would have to be about 1/2" in diameter.

I was thinking a conventional spade bit but people have damaged the acrylic that way from the forum posts I've read. A 1/2" drill bit seems aggressive and might crack the plastic. Are there special bits for acrylic that can make a shallow hole that is not full thickness in the plastic in the shape of those button sized batteries?

 

[rlitman]

I'd use a forstner bit.

 

[cmandp]

I'm unsure of how a forstner bit would work on acrylic.

But what you are wanting is a counterbore not a countersink. It might help you in searching.

A piloted couterbore cutter would be my first choice and change to a socket head cap screw as there are common sized cutters made for these.

But honestly it sounds like you could just change the design to use flat head screws, I think it would be easier and cheaper.

 

[JimNC]

Unless you’re displaying the cameras with long lenses you could use a 1” acrylic rod threaded 1/4x20 and screw it into the tripod socket. On the bottom it can be glued to the base, and it you want to run a screw up through the base you can.

I think that’d look better than the clear tube with a long bolt, probably cheaper too.

If you like the idea, then a round base would also simplify production and allow you to position the camera at whatever angle you want without regard to the base being square to the shelf or to adjoining bases.

 

[ez-duzit]

Forstner and spade bits work fine in acrylic for making counterbores.

 

[tarbellb]

Forstner bit is definitely your best option here. You can do both pockets and holes with a good bit.

Maybe consider using a countersink allen head screw instead of a hex bolt. Cleaner and you will leave more material countersinking opposed to pocketing.

Glue will help structure significantly.

A drill press will reduce fracturing and blowouts as well.

 

[BombShelter]

Buy some extra plastic and play with it, it's pretty forgiving but if you use the wrong bit or don't hit the hole straight you might crack it. I run it through my normal woodworking equipment and have very few issues. Time-Life has a good book that's pretty cheap on Amazon if your looking to get creative.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0809435063/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[bullnerd]

What Bomb said. Drill a few scraps. It can grab pretty quick and ruin the piece. Clamp if you can.

Don't let it overheat. Makes a mess.

Coleman oil is the best lube for tapping. Makes crystal clear threads, just like a buffed edge.

I used (use?) to work for Smartplay international, they make all the lottery machines you see on TV. Look at all the acrylic next time your watching the drawing.

 

[Warrenator]

They do make a special drill bit for Acrylic, they have a sharper angle than the 118 degrees found on regular drill bits. It chips less with the correct bit. Buy some at the plastic store or use a drill doctor to sharpen bits to the correct angle. (Ooooh! an excuse to buy more tools!)

The plastic store has a bin of cutoffs for cheap if you want to experiment. You can also play with flame polishing the edges, using the very thin glue to solvent weld your display case together. You can wet sand the cut edges with very fine grits and the plastic will look perfect.

 

[bushmechanic]

I have about 50 cameras I want to display on the shelf. Looking on the web, I can get 1/2 inch thick clear arcrylic pieces cut to spec quite cheaply.

I was thinking of a generic 8x10 inch base on the bottom, having a clear+ hollow PVC tube (about 1 inch in diameter and up to 6 inches long) sticking up perpendicular to the base and then attaching a smaller 1 inch x 6 inch piece horizontally (parallel to the base) where I could drill a hole and attach the camera via its tripod attachment point.

My plan was to attach the base plate to the top plate (through the hollow tube) via a long hex bolt and nut.

Some of my questions are:

1. how do I drill a countersink in the acrylic to let the hex bolt head on one end and the nut on the other end to sit inside the plastic pieces? The head height would be 5/32" and width across the flats would be 7/16" so the countersink hole would have to be about 1/2" in diameter.

I was thinking a conventional spade bit but people have damaged the acrylic that way from the forum posts I've read. A 1/2" drill bit seems aggressive and might crack the plastic. Are there special bits for acrylic that can make a shallow hole that is not full thickness in the plastic in the shape of those button sized batteries?

If you're doing any machining (drilling and cutting counts) you'll be best served with cast acrylic. It's available in various colors, sizes, and thicknesses from Delvie's Plastics:

http://www.delviesplastics.com/

Their stuff is also properly paper-backed and immaculate, and can be worked easily without scratches, as a result. Can't do better, man, but I don't know whether they do any custom cutting, as I've never had reason to ask.

You can buy cast acrylic tubes and rods, as well as all manner of other shapes if you like. Your whole display can be made of it, and they have the stuff to stick it together, too.

If you can drill and cut plywood, you can drill and cut cast acrylic. It's almost idiot-proof. You don't need to get anything special to work it. Just walk into your shop and go.

I'm sure other places offer it on the net, but that's just where I've always gone for acrylic. I use it a lot.

U.S. Plastics offers larger conventional sheets and other materials (my source for U/V stabilized HDPE full sheets), but the acrylic sheet they sell will not machine as easily, and it isn't paper backed. That makes a night and day difference. You wouldn't think so, but that paper is the cinnamon on top of the cherry on top of the whipped cream on top of the ice cream.

Anyway, that's something to consider.

 

[bushmechanic]

Here's one idea that I use a lot. Confuses the hell out of people when I use it for effects on larger, flat portions.

Frost some of it (sand blaster, sand paper, whatever) and shove a small LED in there (right in the edge on flat pieces). If you know your LEDs, you can make it glow as bright as you want, in any color you want.

If you don't know your LEDs, you can just pick an acrylic color and stick a white one in there. Same effect.