redwrench60
Well-known member
All my life I've been using everything but. Air tool oil, engine oil, WD-40, ATF, PB Blaster whatever I have on drill bits but never used real cutting oil. Am I missing out?
Actual Cutting oil. Do I really need it?
- Thread starter redwrench60
- Start date
Farmall450
Well-known member
I should think anything to provide lubrication/keep heat down is better than nothing.
I have done the same thing. I use TapMagic Pro Tap most of the time now, but sometimes I still just use engine oil, mineral oil, WD40, etc. if it is more convenient. Using any of the things mentioned so far will get you to at least 80% of perfection in comparison to just drilling dry, so it is not that big of a deal most of the time. I do however notice measurable differences in cutting oils/fluids when tapping bolt threads or pipe threads.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Cool Tool II
MTW
Well-known member
Yes you are missing out, missing your money and time in dull useless drill bits that are a pain to work with.
There are many specialty cutting fluids for varied applications, from water based mineral oil blends to petroleum based cutting fluids such as tapping fluids or dark thread cutting oil. What to use depends on what type work you are doing.
Water based fluid are normally used in machine coolant tanks, but can be used in a squirt bottle. It's disadvantage is it evaporates from heat quickly and gets all over everything when using in a hand drill (runny).
Petroleum based fluids are much more clingy and stay where you put it better (higher viscosity). The viscosity is dependent on the brand you use. Dark thread cutting oil has the highest viscosity of most fluids available, and is sold for threading pipes.
As a sparky doing a lot of machine type work I frequently need to drill and tap machine bases and steel building columns for mounting and fastening. My personal favorite is my own blend of two oils for the vertical surfaces that I drill and tap. I mix 3/4 dark thread (sulpherised) cutting oil, with 1/4 Tap Magic tapping fluid. This mixture gives excellent results for my work. The thread cutting oil is heavy and doesn't run off much, while the low viscosity (light) Tap Magic is excellent at lubing and cooling the cutting edge. I use a very small plastic bottle with a twist seal spout, available from cosmetic supply stores. I carry this in my field box right next to my drill and tap selection. I only fill the bottle half way to prevent spill when it gets knocked over, it also makes the bottle more stable in the upright position. You don't need much oil to keep the cutting edge wet with a slight film, a little bit goes a long way.
In practice you are trying to lube and cool the cutting edge of the tool not the workpiece, So put the few drops of fluid on your drill or tap. Stop often while working and apply a few more drops, do not allow the tip to run dry (hot), as this is what dulls the cutting edge. The other thing is to run the bit very slow with lots of forward pressure. High speed equals high heat equals dull edges. Heavy hand pressure cuts quicker and therefore reduces number of rotations required and less friction/heat.
I use this cutting fluid with metal hole cutters that are more like a end mill than a hole saw, in their tooth design. With great care of the cutters, drills, and taps (proper storage in transport) I can usually get about 10 years of service from the same set of cutting tools. I buy only high quality USA made tool bits and cutters, and make them last. Providing excellent value, and reliability, since I only carry one set of cutters in my truck.
I can tell you from experience that when I get a new helper, I will need a new or backup set of bits in the truck. It takes a while to teach them that you can get it done faster and easier with the right techniques and patience, than you can with a whole sleeve of new destroyed drill bits. When they have figured it out for themselves, you'll know, because that's when they ***** that the cutting oil is out. Then I teach them how to blend it.
Any lube oil of any kind is better than nothing, and controlling the speed and pressure will go a long way to keeping your bits useable.
There are many specialty cutting fluids for varied applications, from water based mineral oil blends to petroleum based cutting fluids such as tapping fluids or dark thread cutting oil. What to use depends on what type work you are doing.
Water based fluid are normally used in machine coolant tanks, but can be used in a squirt bottle. It's disadvantage is it evaporates from heat quickly and gets all over everything when using in a hand drill (runny).
Petroleum based fluids are much more clingy and stay where you put it better (higher viscosity). The viscosity is dependent on the brand you use. Dark thread cutting oil has the highest viscosity of most fluids available, and is sold for threading pipes.
As a sparky doing a lot of machine type work I frequently need to drill and tap machine bases and steel building columns for mounting and fastening. My personal favorite is my own blend of two oils for the vertical surfaces that I drill and tap. I mix 3/4 dark thread (sulpherised) cutting oil, with 1/4 Tap Magic tapping fluid. This mixture gives excellent results for my work. The thread cutting oil is heavy and doesn't run off much, while the low viscosity (light) Tap Magic is excellent at lubing and cooling the cutting edge. I use a very small plastic bottle with a twist seal spout, available from cosmetic supply stores. I carry this in my field box right next to my drill and tap selection. I only fill the bottle half way to prevent spill when it gets knocked over, it also makes the bottle more stable in the upright position. You don't need much oil to keep the cutting edge wet with a slight film, a little bit goes a long way.
In practice you are trying to lube and cool the cutting edge of the tool not the workpiece, So put the few drops of fluid on your drill or tap. Stop often while working and apply a few more drops, do not allow the tip to run dry (hot), as this is what dulls the cutting edge. The other thing is to run the bit very slow with lots of forward pressure. High speed equals high heat equals dull edges. Heavy hand pressure cuts quicker and therefore reduces number of rotations required and less friction/heat.
I use this cutting fluid with metal hole cutters that are more like a end mill than a hole saw, in their tooth design. With great care of the cutters, drills, and taps (proper storage in transport) I can usually get about 10 years of service from the same set of cutting tools. I buy only high quality USA made tool bits and cutters, and make them last. Providing excellent value, and reliability, since I only carry one set of cutters in my truck.
I can tell you from experience that when I get a new helper, I will need a new or backup set of bits in the truck. It takes a while to teach them that you can get it done faster and easier with the right techniques and patience, than you can with a whole sleeve of new destroyed drill bits. When they have figured it out for themselves, you'll know, because that's when they ***** that the cutting oil is out. Then I teach them how to blend it.
Any lube oil of any kind is better than nothing, and controlling the speed and pressure will go a long way to keeping your bits useable.
rockwithjason
Well-known member
rapid tap makes all the difference
Otherwise I use a generic coolant for milling, sawing, drilling of steel and the like. Tapping gets good old tap magic. 
First, EXCELLENT POST MTW. Thanks for that.
I would agree that yes, any fluid will help the process. But the proper fluid will of course yield better results.
And again, to reiterate what MTW said- Technique is the most crucial element to keeping cutting tools around for a long time.
I would agree that yes, any fluid will help the process. But the proper fluid will of course yield better results.
And again, to reiterate what MTW said- Technique is the most crucial element to keeping cutting tools around for a long time.
Jagmandave
Well-known member
If you're drilling stainless, it's practically imperative......
andywander
Well-known member
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Hammer1963
Well-known member
Motor oils are designed as friction barriers and do the opposite of what cutting oil is designed for. Motor oils will dull drills, break tapes and dies and create work hardening.
Cutting oils provide a route for chip removal, cooling and actually aid in surface to surface lubrication by breaking down increasingly under heat and pressure while still providing enough lubrication to create a thin film between cutting tool and material. Cheap insurance for costly cutters and even more costly parts being repaired or fabricated
Cutting oils provide a route for chip removal, cooling and actually aid in surface to surface lubrication by breaking down increasingly under heat and pressure while still providing enough lubrication to create a thin film between cutting tool and material. Cheap insurance for costly cutters and even more costly parts being repaired or fabricated
Snakedr
Member
Try Boelube, works great as a drill lubricant! Amazon and Aircraft spruce and many others carry it.
bigcaddy
Well-known member
I was taught at a young age that if you are going to be cutting/drilling/tapping/making holes in metal, you are going to need some kind of lube.
I had a co-worker drill some holes in steel plate but he neglected to use lube. When i came back, i was presented with 3 scorched 1" drill bits that needed to be sharpened. Even at a slow speed with pressure on the bit, they turned a wonderful shade of blue/gold.
For general tapping/drilling work around my shop, i just grab some oil from our Landis pipe threaders. We run Ridgid Nu-clear oil which is great for keeping heat to a minimum. We also have some heavily sulfated dark cutting oil but that stuff smells like **** when it gets hot and smokes.
I had a co-worker drill some holes in steel plate but he neglected to use lube. When i came back, i was presented with 3 scorched 1" drill bits that needed to be sharpened. Even at a slow speed with pressure on the bit, they turned a wonderful shade of blue/gold.
For general tapping/drilling work around my shop, i just grab some oil from our Landis pipe threaders. We run Ridgid Nu-clear oil which is great for keeping heat to a minimum. We also have some heavily sulfated dark cutting oil but that stuff smells like **** when it gets hot and smokes.
bcradio
Well-known member
My drills are usually not sharp (thankfully), but I do try to keep my drill bits sharp.
Ign
Well-known member
I was eyeing bar and chain lube while pouring it into my chainsaw today and thinking about this thread LOL. I wonder how it'd do for a cutting oil..........
That said I use lube 90% of the time when drilling, at least at the mill. With hand drills I rarely take the time, but I don't do a lot of hand drilling anyhow and generally use cheap uni-bits for that.
But yeah with drilling stainless and tapping aluminum it's really not optional.
That said I use lube 90% of the time when drilling, at least at the mill. With hand drills I rarely take the time, but I don't do a lot of hand drilling anyhow and generally use cheap uni-bits for that.
But yeah with drilling stainless and tapping aluminum it's really not optional.
Caaaareful there! Technically, it's a twist drill.
Calling a twist drill a "drill bit" is relatively modern slang so far as I can tell. If you asked for a "drill bit" in 1875 you would have received a ship's auger or a rock drill, not a twist drill.
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner. The above is the correct answer to this question. Lubricants and cutting oils have a different job to do.
lg
no neat sig line
Ign
Well-known member
I just remembered we used to use the Union Butterfield cutting oil at my former employer. It always seemed awesome to me.......seemed to cling to the cutting tool and took a lot to burn off.
http://secure.nhbragg.com/product/union-butterfield-19-10502-drilling-and-tapping-fluid-145388/
http://secure.nhbragg.com/product/union-butterfield-19-10502-drilling-and-tapping-fluid-145388/