Adapter for ribbed metal building??

[abgiles]

So, I'm wanting to purchase some awnings to go above the doors and windows of my Carolina Carports building (ribbed metal), and was wondering if there is anyone out there that makes some sort of adapter to put between the smooth back of the awning frame, and the ribs on the metal building to make it almost seamless.

I realize that I can attach it to the ribs of the building itself, but I don't want the gap between the building and awning that it would create.

Something like this, but in a plastic or other hard material.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Metal-Sales-Classic-Rib-Outside-Closure-Strip-Glued-6451699/204289073

I've found the SunTuf plastic ones, but they are for 3" centers, and the ridges on my building are 9" centers.


Thanks!
Brian

 

[cajunfirehawk]

Good Luck with that, we all would like to find something like that, IMHO

 

[Marctrees]

These types of transition pieces are made for some R panels and different roof pitches..You need to find out WHO the steel supplier was that made YOUR panels.. then contact and ask them.

If these are not available, ask them how they recommend to do what you want.

Marc

http://www.mpvent.com/products/trim/die-formed-flashing/

 

[Marctrees]

https://www.google.com/search?q=r+p...i57j69i64l3.7919j0j1&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

[Marctrees]

Actually, if these are just little awnings slapped against the outside of the building WALL, worst case is use the appropriate "Foam Closure strip" as like "Backer Rod" is used for caulk, and overlay them w somekinda weatherresistant Caulk

If all you are trying to do is eliminate water dripping own the outside of the sheet wall, that would be good enough.

If I am picturing what you want to do, you want to stop just a few raindrops that are going down a wall... totally different than flashing a roof.. way less critical.

Marc

 

[PugetDude]

These types of transition pieces are made for some R panels and different roof pitches..You need to find out WHO the steel supplier was that made YOUR panels.. then contact and ask them.

If these are not available, ask them how they recommend to do what you want.

Marc

http://www.mpvent.com/products/trim/die-formed-flashing/

Carolina Carports rolls their own siding.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Actually, if these are just little awnings slapped against the outside of the building WALL, worst case is use the appropriate "Foam Closure strip" as like "Backer Rod" is used for caulk, and overlay them w somekinda weatherresistant Caulk

If all you are trying to do is eliminate water dripping own the outside of the sheet wall, that would be good enough.

If I am picturing what you want to do, you want to stop just a few raindrops that are going down a wall... totally different than flashing a roof.. way less critical.

Marc

x two

 

[TheEquineFencer]

Flex tape!

 

[Marctrees]

Carolina Carports may very well fab sheets from coil stock.. most steel sheet suppliers do.

But, for them to use a one of non standard proprietary pattern would be very atypical.

Marc

 

[PugetDude]

Carolina Carports may very well fab sheets from coil stock.. most steel sheet suppliers do.

But, for them to use a one of non standard proprietary pattern would be very atypical.

Marc

There are about a dozen versions of R-panel out there. All very similar, but not totally interchangeable. for what the OP needs, a standard flashing should work

 

[Marctrees]

Yes, many variations, but all standardized, AFAIK, like most wood Moulding patterns.

For the OP purpose, as I understand it, a basic even hand formed flashing will work, with the closure strip and the caulk.

I won't say it can't exist, but I am saying I have never seen a totally unique proprietary pattern corrugated panel..

Marc

 

[dave_dj1]

Get what is called end wall flashing, notch it to fit your panes, caulk and done.

 

[TheEquineFencer]

Good Post. I've thought and looked for the same thing. The best thing I've dreamed up....I'd take the "jig" I built for holding and cutting the PBR type panels and the skilsaw with the 60 tooth carbide blade or my concrete blade and cut the end of the panel at an angle so the panel fits tight to the sidewall, then caulk it.

One day I'd like to have a front porch on the front on the shop to sit on when I get old to work and watch the world go by.

 

[readhead]

Marc, it isn't as bad now but there are still a lot of different profiles. PugetDude should have pretty good knowledge about that. The really irritating one around me was Varco Pruden. Just different enough that you had to use their sheets for any rework and repairs. And their colors were unique to them. There is no "standard" profile. About the only common aspect is 12" OC for 1 1/4" ribs and 9" OC for 3/4" ribs and even then I have seen variations.

It seems like the differences are regional. Keep in mind that it is very easy and not very expensive to get into the rolling business. The equipment is very simple and doesn't use a lot of space. The biggest expense is stocking, storing and handling the coils. I have a small supplier near me that is fairly low priced but only stocks five popular colors in 3/4" "your name here rib" and in two gauges. He carries about eight trims in 10'-4" lengths. He does very well and makes it very clear that he is not a full line supplier but you can come back in a couple of hours and pick up your order.

It may seem like metal siding is universal but maybe not as much as you think. Joe's Metal might order his dies just a little bit different so everyone recognizes his products. I'm sure PugetDude has stories.

 

[OccupantRJ]

The flexible filler strips are called either inside or outside closures. My Lowe’s carries them, or they can be ordered from panel suppliers online. Here is the Lowe’s link.

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Roof-panel...essories-Roofing-Building-supplies/4294806360

 

[Marctrees]

Puget Dude and Readhead do have WAYY more experience than me with this stuff.

Turns out panels are not as standardized as I thought.

Thank you Guys.

Marc

 

[Firebrick43]

None of the options listed are either correct nor long lasting.

An inch above where the awning is to be installed cut a slot. Cut it 4" longer on each side than the awning.

Use a carbide blade turned backward on a circular saw. Wear long sleeves, a hat, and a face sheild. Some use a angle grinder but it burns the paint.

Now slide flashing bent at what angle the awning is or even some decent size z flashing up under the top piece. Use self drilling polebarn screws with washers to attach top side of siding and also through the flashings top edge under neath. Now attach your awning underneath the flashing with filler blocks (I would use pvc trim boards) on the flats. The boards should be as thick as the ribs are tall.

While the flashing marctrees posted in #4 it would need to be slipped under the top sheet as I listed above, and then I don't see any advantage compared to a simple flashing/z flashing.

Even the best sealant on earth will leak in several years.

https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/MWSTE001/Install_Instruct/ResRfHH8-24-15Low.pdf

Page 28 residential dormer flashing. Prebent sections available.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

While I agree that your way is the best way so far, I disagree about running carbide blades backwards. That was for vinyl siding when cutting with a veneer blade. Carbide is so brittle that you will break most of the bits the first time running it backwards. I know this from personal experience.

 

[Bretny]

Have you called the manufacture? Most manufactures make this in metal. Its usualy used for a roof connecting to a ribbed wall. Drawing a blank on the name at the moment.

 

[ybnormal70]

Mount unitstrut to the building and then mount awning to the unistrut. That is how I just mounted the brackets for my outdoor minisplit ac unit.

Kevin

 

[manwithtools]

As mentioned before, end wall flashing is what you want. http://allsteelmetal.com/metal-roofing-and-trim/product-guide-page/32/end-wall-flashing

In addition, this is great excuse to buy a new tool

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Metalworking/Metal-Cutting/2782-20

As Firebrick explained, cut a section of the siding out, slip the flashing behind the siding and then adapt as necessary with filler blocks on the awning surface.

 

[Firebrick43]

While I agree that your way is the best way so far, I disagree about running carbide blades backwards. That was for vinyl siding when cutting with a veneer blade. Carbide is so brittle that you will break most of the bits the first time running it backwards. I know this from personal experience.

While I have used worn out 24t framing blades for 25 years and my father before me, I probably shouldn't recommend doing so as who knows what condition and how fast someone may feed it. I personally have not had to serious of issues, yes a tooth or two departs from time to time, but performs ok. I have never used a thin kerf blade.

One could buy the m18 saw manwithtools recommends. Wish I would have for cutting emt/unistrut but I am all finished with it now.

One could purchase the blade for the saw (48-40-4070) and buy a 5/8 id 20mm OD to adapt it to a regular 7-1/4 saw

Just remember to wear all your safety gear as the little bits of semi hot metal really *****.