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Added weight on garage door

flyng_fool

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Frisco, TX
I want to insulate my garage door. But I have two concerns. Weight, and looks. I want the finished product to look nice, I don't like the look of the reflective insulation or painted foam board. So my idea was to use standard fiberglass batts and cover them with whiteboard.

I'm worried about adding too much weight. Right now, my 16 X 7 door has only a single spring. If I add another will it be able to offset the weight I'm adding?

Did a search, couldn't find anything.
 
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marty_p

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Aug 1, 2008
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SE LoUiSiAna
Consult with a local door supplier/installer. I saw what a broken spring did to a neighbor's compact SUV and it wasn't pretty. Thankfully no one was hurt, as they were still in the car after the door had closed behind them. I think the opener was undersized, per the repair guys. They even said multiple coats of paint actually add appreciable weight. Who knew? :shocking:
 
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flyng_fool

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Right now my single spring is handling my 250 pound or so door. I think I would be adding maybe 80 pounds or so. So my gut tells me adding an additional spring should do it, but I'm not sure.
 

koditten

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Apr 10, 2008
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Midland, Michigan
I'm guessing you were referring to the old cable and pully spring assists. I've seen those break and it is very scary.

Fortunately the OP is talking about torsion spring, door assist. When those break,they just spin on the torsion shaft.

With that said,my insulated 7 x 16 has 2 springs. Get another spring and go from there. Please tell me you have experience winding torsion springs. I've done many and they still make me nervous.
 
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flyng_fool

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Awww hell no! I'll do just about anything, but I will not mess with a garage door spring. I'll let the pro install that, thank you very much!
 

Andamo

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Mar 23, 2005
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Trinity, Florida
I used these panels, after having to cut them down to fit, on my doors. I made up aluminum clips to hold them in place and they added very little weight to the door. A added benefit is that they have a vinyl type coating that you can wipe down to keep them clean. Not much of a R value, but better than what was there in the first place.

http://www.energyefficientsolutions.com/foam-garage-door-insulation-kit.asp
 
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Dcampbell98xj

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May 8, 2014
Messages
80
It's very odd to have a 16x7 door with only one torsion spring. I'd definitely call a local company and have them convert the door to two springs. Shouldn't be two expensive and with 2 springs it should increase the life of the springs. And if one of the springs does break you can atleast open in close the door by hand with only having to lift half the weight.
 

upndown

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Dec 5, 2010
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3,107
Location
Desert Hills/Peeples Valley AZ.
I want to insulate my garage door. But I have two concerns. Weight, and looks. I want the finished product to look nice, I don't like the look of the reflective insulation or painted foam board. So my idea was to use standard fiberglass batts and cover them with whiteboard.

I'm worried about adding too much weight. Right now, my 16 X 7 door has only a single spring. If I add another will it be able to offset the weight I'm adding?

Did a search, couldn't find anything.

The only way to do that properly is to have the door weighed after you add whatever weight to the door. Anything else is just guess work.
 

upndown

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Desert Hills/Peeples Valley AZ.
It's very odd to have a 16x7 door with only one torsion spring. I'd definitely call a local company and have them convert the door to two springs. Shouldn't be two expensive and with 2 springs it should increase the life of the springs. And if one of the springs does break you can atleast open in close the door by hand with only having to lift half the weight.

It's not as odd as you may think, especially with todays Beer Can doors. I Never installed a one spring door or Extension Springs, but then I didn't buy my doors from HD or Lowes. :beer:
 

Alexbn921

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Aug 22, 2013
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579
Location
East Bay Nor Cal
If you have a metal door use the reflective bubble wrap glued on with polyseamseal. Cheap, easy and very effective.
My Insulation
Garage door with radiant barrier bubble insulation. (must be done with an air gap!)


Super light and easy. The afternoon sun hits the door and I temp gunned it at 167 yesterday! It was only 94 on the inside. This made the garage unbearably hot. Afterwards it much cooler and quitter too.
R-13 on all walls and in the roof. Went from +20 to less the outside. This made such a huge difference, I wish I had done it sooner.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflecti...ive-Insulation-BP24025/100318553?N=5yc1vZbedf
$25 a roll and I need 3 roles. They sell a 100 footer too.
Plus 2 tubes of poliseam seal at $4.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-...-All-Purpose-Adhesive-Caulk-1675282/202595594
Total setup was $85-90 with tax and added about 5-7 lbs to the door.
I used a 4ft level and a sharp utility knife to cut it to the correct height on plywood. The nice part is that one strip covers a whole panel. I did have to use two pieces on the top overlapped at a seam and bolted down.
After you cut them to size and clean the door, run a bead of sealant along the edge of panel and stick it on. Helps to have 2 people, but I did it alone. I sealed every cross brace too.
It was been two years and held up very well.

Must have an air gap. If you put foam or anything else behind it it will not work as well.
 
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JTG

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Sep 24, 2009
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408
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New Jersey
When I replaced my two 7' x 8' doors last year I spent the extra money and got the highest R rating I could so my doors are heavy. Within 2 years I broke my first torsion spring. Last month it broke again. They guy who installed them replaced it the first time under warranty no questions asked. When it broke again he covered it again under warranty but this time gave me a longer/stronger spring. Doing some research I found out that most single spring setups are rated for 10,000 cycles. My garage and driveway are on the side of the house so the garage door is our main entrance into the house and with 6 people in my house I estimated the door cycles 15-20x a day. So my two year use was as designed.

My point is if you're going to replace your spring(s) do some math and research before you get it done. Oh, they also recommend not to add a new spring along side an old one. Always replace in pairs.
 

s10xtremist

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Aug 29, 2013
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131
Location
State Capitol Raceway, LA
I've installed many 16x7 doors that had a single spring. Actually, I converted an old one that had two small springs to one larger single spring. It was all I had on the truck and the customer needed their door fixed that day. The door balanced almost perfectly throughout it's entire travel.

There's a science to it, it's not just a simple matter of adding an extra spring. The length, wire size, and coil diameter are all calculated factors in getting a properly-sized spring. With the wrong spring, the door could be heavy the first few feet of travel, then super light the rest of the way, or vice versa. Either way, it's dangerous and will put much undue stress on your operator. Depending on how much weight is added, you may be able to just have a the springs wound a little more to compensate. In fact, it may actually balance better than it ever has. I've balanced doors that were fairly good throughout the first few feet of travel, but then got really heavy before the last section or two was in the horizontal track. This made it difficult for the operator to pull the door up. Adding more tension made the door light at the bottom, which made the operator work harder to push the door down, and could bend the top section over time. I added tension, then countered that by adding extra struts to the top and fourth sections. If all else fails and you need to change the spring, you're gonna have to contact a door company with the size and weight of your door so they can get you the best spring possible. There's a relatively easy way to weigh your door that involves a bathroom scale and various lengths of 2x4s:

 

Matt M PA

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Oct 21, 2008
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SE PA
I don't know where to buy them, but my doors have styrofoam panels with a smooth white covering. My detached garage doors were the standard issue doors by the builder..and they added these panels on site. I can supply a pic if needed/wanted...
 
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flyng_fool

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Nov 9, 2007
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Location
Frisco, TX
I've installed many 16x7 doors that had a single spring. Actually, I converted an old one that had two small springs to one larger single spring. It was all I had on the truck and the customer needed their door fixed that day. The door balanced almost perfectly throughout it's entire travel.

There's a science to it, it's not just a simple matter of adding an extra spring. The length, wire size, and coil diameter are all calculated factors in getting a properly-sized spring. With the wrong spring, the door could be heavy the first few feet of travel, then super light the rest of the way, or vice versa. Either way, it's dangerous and will put much undue stress on your operator. Depending on how much weight is added, you may be able to just have a the springs wound a little more to compensate. In fact, it may actually balance better than it ever has. I've balanced doors that were fairly good throughout the first few feet of travel, but then got really heavy before the last section or two was in the horizontal track. This made it difficult for the operator to pull the door up. Adding more tension made the door light at the bottom, which made the operator work harder to push the door down, and could bend the top section over time. I added tension, then countered that by adding extra struts to the top and fourth sections. If all else fails and you need to change the spring, you're gonna have to contact a door company with the size and weight of your door so they can get you the best spring possible. There's a relatively easy way to weigh your door that involves a bathroom scale and various lengths of 2x4s:



I never knew there were different springs and different life cycle springs. I always thought a spring was a spring.

Thanks for the info!
 

imnutz

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May 7, 2012
Messages
106
With the finished door weight, height, and cable drum model number, any door dealer will be able to provide you with the proper size spring or springs for your application - you can even got to 100K cycles if you have the shaft space and the $$
 

EOC_Jason

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Jun 25, 2012
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Bentonville, AR
Let a garage door guy handle it. Those springs are under a lot of tension and if you don't know what you are doing you can break your arm or worse...

But anyhow, the answer would be yes it can be done. Either they add a bigger spring or go to a double spring setup. Depending on how old your door is, you will probably want to replace your existing spring anyhow if you go the double route.
 
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flyng_fool

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Frisco, TX
Let a garage door guy handle it. Those springs are under a lot of tension and if you don't know what you are doing you can break your arm or worse...

But anyhow, the answer would be yes it can be done. Either they add a bigger spring or go to a double spring setup. Depending on how old your door is, you will probably want to replace your existing spring anyhow if you go the double route.

Like I said above. I'll do just about anything except for messing with those springs. I'll leave that part to the pros.The door is 10 years old so I guess it's probably time for a new spring. I'll just put all my **** on the door and then have the guy out right after I finish to give me a new spring and get it balanced up the way it needs to be.
 

EOC_Jason

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Like I said above. I'll do just about anything except for messing with those springs. I'll leave that part to the pros.The door is 10 years old so I guess it's probably time for a new spring. I'll just put all my **** on the door and then have the guy out right after I finish to give me a new spring and get it balanced up the way it needs to be.

Sounds like a plan... :thumbup:

Also, ask him about what kind of oil he prefers to spray on the spring. I usually just use WD-40, but I also have some other kind I can't remember the name.

A little oil now and then helps keep your spring from rusting up and causing issues.
 

Dcampbell98xj

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May 8, 2014
Messages
80
Any kind of penetrating oil will work. Pb blaster makes a garage door lubricant that works well. Do not use lithium grease it cakes on the hinges and springs and attracts dirty causing more friction and worn parts. WD40 will work for a short time but will also cause friction from drying all moving parts if not used regularly. The torsion springs should be lubed every few months to get the most life out of them.
 

Mattlt

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Nov 30, 2005
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1,382
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MN
Consult with a local door supplier/installer. I saw what a broken spring did to a neighbor's compact SUV and it wasn't pretty. Thankfully no one was hurt, as they were still in the car after the door had closed behind them. I think the opener was undersized, per the repair guys. They even said multiple coats of paint actually add appreciable weight. Who knew? :shocking:

Maybe I'm misinterpreting this, but why would an undersized opener cause a spring to break? I've always thought that the opener only assists in opening/closing the door, it really doesn't apply much force, up or down. If the opener is unhooked, the door really should be neutrally balanced and hold at every position, correct? (Should basically stay in whatever position you let go of it in)

Now, the springs being too small for the weight of the door... that's another story!
 

fred d

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Dec 31, 2008
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Metro Houston Area
That is why I love GJ

I have taken a plethora of Door/spring info from this thread

I have broke 3 springs on my main 8x7 in the 15 + years we have been here.
Did not know there was a "cycle life span"

I have replaced my on springs on my garage(1 on each side) all 3 times
And yes you need to replace them in pairs

I have done the torsion springs on enclosed trailers. They are the same style, but I am sure the one for the 16' garaged door is much stronger.
 
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