Adding 110v to enclosed trailer

[TX63CONV]

I have an 18’ enclosed car hauler that I would like to add 110v power to. I would like to be able to plug into a standard outlet at the track that would power my trailer for the following:

(1) interior lighting--I was considering a small 24” or possibly 48” fluorescent switched garage light in the center of the trailer.
(2) I would like to power a portable A/C
(3) I would also like to power a medium size 40” or so flat screen TV, receiver, and satellite.

Obviously, I could haul the trailer to my RV shop and let them handle everything but I feel relatively comfortable around wiring and this site is such a good resource.

My thoughts were to cut a hole for a weather proof receptacle on the driver’s side bottom rear, wire it to a breaker box inside and then run wiring for the overhead light, and a power strip at the front for TV, Sat, and A/C. I would also like to have the ability to plug into a generator if there is not a power source at the track.

Where I think I would have trouble is (a) determining load, amps, etc as I could possibly have all of these things running at the same time (b) wiring the breaker box and (c) sourcing parts outside of lowes or HD.

Lastly, I am unsure how the exterior outlet would look as I want to be able to run an RV or HD extension cord to an outlet at the track. I watched a video of a guy who ran an exterior outlet on the outside of the trailer, and an interior outlet on the inside, then made an extension cord with two male ends. That doesn’t seem right, does it?

Any thoughts, things I should consider before I head down this path?

 

[Rockhead261]

Forget about the double male cord - unauthorized and unsafe. There are plenty of right ways to do what you want. Google "RV Shore Power" for lots of ideas and resources.

 

[The mean fish]

Assuming that your AC unit will run off of a standard 20amp circuit I would find a nice 12 gauge spring loaded cord reel and swap new connectors on in the other direction. Mount the reel somewhere so you can flip open a small door and pull your cord out to get to the outlet. Either that or get a 20amp Edison inlet and mount it in the side of the trailer. If you went the RV inlet route you would end up with something in the 30 amp range which would be worthless if all you have access to is standard Edison outlets at the track.

 

[The mean fish]

I would also go with LED lighting to cut down on power consumption even if you do 4' fluoro fixtures. You should be able to get an 18' enclosed trailer cool with a TV and LED lighting on a single 20 amp circuit if you plan it well. Are you talking about a roof mounted RV AC unit or a home window unit?

 

[TX63CONV]

Thanks for the input. Fish brought up one of my concerns about only having access to Edison outlets at the track.

The ac I would use is a small portable unit like this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Elect...-4-Pints-Day-LP1213GXR/203656279?N=5yc1vZc4m4
I think it's 10000btu.

What I was thinking was the 20 amp Edison inlet on the outside that I could plug into. Do I need a breaker box on the inside or can I run to one outlet and a power strip?

 

[HAY YOU]

If you're unsure of drilling thru the side of the trailer you can go to the RV place & get a floor elec. access hatch, plastic about 3” dia. Made so you can run the end of your ext. cord inside & then up to your fuse box. Just put a short cord with plug out the bottom of the box & just plug it in. If drilling is not a problem get a water proof outside plug. Check out Camping World web site for what is available.
The hardest part for me was deciding were I wanted my outlets & lite switches. When plugged into the generator & turn off the roof A/C before I use the microwave, if plugged into the pole I let everything run, Ref, A/C, lights, tv etc.

 

[The mean fish]

Thanks for the input. Fish brought up one of my concerns about only having access to Edison outlets at the track.

The ac I would use is a small portable unit like this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Elect...-4-Pints-Day-LP1213GXR/203656279?N=5yc1vZc4m4
I think it's 10000btu.

What I was thinking was the 20 amp Edison inlet on the outside that I could plug into. Do I need a breaker box on the inside or can I run to one outlet and a power strip?

Realistically if you're just talking about a single 20 amp circuit there's no real need for a breaker panel in the trailer. You may want to find a high quality power strip with a nice circuit breaker on it which would act as your overall protection.

 

[The mean fish]

Also keep in mind that AC is rated at 11amp but it likely pulls double that when the compressor kicks on for a short period of time. If it were me (and I do a lot or RV/trailer power/media ****) and I were putting a TV or any kind of sensitive electronics in there I would install a nice size UPS for those devices alone. Not only will that give you clean power for your TV but when the AC compressor kicks on the UPS can kick in for a second if the power gets too low for the TV. It's not the most ideal way to do it but when you're stuck with limited power at a track you do what you have to do.

We've set up quite a few enclosed trailers with inverters for everything from TVs to large sewing machines for a guy doing large flag repair on the road. Your AC would kill an inverter way too quick but they work great for smaller power loads.

 

[Falcon67]

Check with the track and be sure they use regular outlets and not RV/Shore Power style. I would put in RV type 30A power and if necessary, keep a "cheater cord" handy. We have both outlets at our track, depending on the location of the space.

I'm going to do this on our 24'. I've seen many trailers with exposed conduit and a standard 6 gang breaker box - that's fine, but seriously ugly. I may well pull the ceiling and run MC cable for the AC unit and lights. We would be using a generator, not going to pay more $ for a space with power, plus pay for the power. I've seen trailers outfitted like a house, but I'm of a mind that a couple of outlets would be more than plenty for me.

X2 on the inverter, but we only need one to charge camera batteries and maybe run a laptop and/or lighting. The big loads would be 13.5K AC and a coffee pot. The coffee pot would work on a 1500w inverter I imagine. We're going to start with at least one deep cycle battery and work up from there LOL. I go back and forth on two golf cart units or a single 12V deep. I'm replacing the small overhead bulbs with LEDS, so there's not a lot of draw yet. In fact, if I put a couple of 4' "T8" fixtures in, I would pop for LED bulbs instead of regular units just to keep things on a battery. Don't want to be pulling down the truck or trying to drag a genset into the side door as the last thing before leaving.

 

[4xdog]

Speaking from complete ignorance in trailer upgrades, but some in vehicle-mounted systems...

Would it be better to mount the shore power connector on the passenger side, so if you're parked along a right of way you would be able to access the connector and run a cable without any risk of being in traffic?

 

[TX63CONV]

Chris- shame you are too far away. You ever get to any tracks near Dallas? I like the idea of ups and will definitely plan for that. I imagine that most of the tracks have a 30amp hook up but have to pay for it. I will probably end up on a generator but wouldn't the interior wiring setup be the same?

I would like to try plugging into one of the paddock outlets for now and then add a generator later if needed.

 

[Blk88GT]

I did this to my trailer a few years back. It was really pretty simple.

I have 6x 4ft dual lamp fixtures in the trailer, 2 exterior plugs and a number of them inside. I used a small 4 circuit panel. I used Marinco Shore Power stuff to get the power into the trailer. I didn't come through the wall, but through the driver's side front down low below the wall, and came up through the floor. Everything inside was done in conduit across the roof.

I can take pictures if it would help!

 

[Mustang51js]

You could always get a small solar setup to charge the little stuff and have some lights (dc powered)

 

[TX63CONV]

88gt. Pics would be awesome. Particularly of the panel. I think for my needs, I may not need it but would be nice to have. If I am going to be running tools, they will probably be in the paddock area and not off the trailer.

 

[TX63CONV]

This is the inlet I am thinking of using:

Http://www.etrailer.com/wiring/marinco/14149.html

It's 15a and not 20a

 

[sberry]

That inlet would work. This is a place for a 12 cord if there ever was one. Run in to the trailer feed from a duplex or better yet a quad box. Plug air cond to recepts, if needed a ups in one and a couple power strips in the other, one each way to plug lights in to, they even got switch on them.
Yes the connecter is designed for 15A connector this will be hooked to a 20A circuit. It needs a 12 cord unless there is another current limiting feature similar to a power strip on it

 

[TX63CONV]

Are you saying I need a 12a extension cord or run 12-2 Romex for my interior runs or both?

 

[theoldwizard1]

Maybe not as pretty, but you could just but a power strip with reasonable cord and a 20A breaker and mount it with double sticky foam pads on the inside of the trailer. Cut a hole in the side for the pigtail and use an RV power cord hatch cover (less than $5). Run 12AWG cordadge along the ceiling to where you need it using adhesive back cord clips.

 

[The mean fish]

This is the inlet I am thinking of using:

Http://www.etrailer.com/wiring/marinco/14149.html

It's 15a and not 20a

It sounds like there's a chance you may upgrade to a 30 amp setup in the future to accommodate an RV outlet or generator. You should really think about wiring the trailer for 30 amp RV service and just use a 20amp adapter to plug into the unpaid track outlets. At least you'll be able to switch to a 30amp RV plug without rewiring the trailer or replacing anything. Aside from being limited to only 20amp service there's really no downside to wiring it for 30 and using the adapter. I certainly wouldn't go for a 15 amp inlet either way.

 

[HOTFR8]

You may use 110 but here it is 240. I have my enclosed trailer wired like a caravan with a power inlet and even an outlet. I leave an extension cord connected at all times with a battery tender taking care of the battery and if I need I have a 240 light inside as well.

 

[sberry]

I am saying use a 12 cord from the 20A you are plugging the trailer in to (from track or house) to the first outlet in the trailer,,, then you can use a couple power strips.
Reason for this is,,, and its difficult for me to make it clear,,, you are creating a circuit similar to a 20A branch circuit and the opcd is ahead of it, all the wire needs to be 12,,, unless like a power strip with 14 it has another 15 A breaker.
A general purpose circuit like this needs to protect the wire.

Using a 30A has its problems, with these there is a panel in the trailer with separate 15 or 20A protections for 15A duplex. Both poles the same 120V leg.
This is why I mentioned use of a 12 and yes instead of power strips you could use all 12 wire to as many outlets as you wanted, romex, pipe, either one and don't need to add additional breaker panel to the trailer.
This needs to be sized and protected like a branch general use branch circuit. Clear as mud???????????

 

[TX63CONV]

Trailer doesnt have any electrical so no panel currently. So I think you are saying I could install my 15a inlet, run 12AWG to a ceiling light and a couple of outlets. Then use a 12gauge extension cord from inlet to the source at the track?

The A/C I think draws 10 or 11 amps....I probably couldnt run everything at the same time but could run TV/receiver and lights or A/C and lights.

 

[sberry]

All of the wire in the circuit needs to be number 12, yes you are basically extending a general use circuit. You will not have a problem with tv and AC and a couple modest lights, I have done that before.

 

[theoldwizard1]

When shopping for your A/C, check their power usage. The newer ones are below 1000W and even those cheap HF 900W generators will run them !

 

[sberry]

I was wondering how much of a unit a 2000 inverter Honda would run? Run usually isn't much of an issue if it will start.

 

[Blk88GT]

Here is the inlet I used: http://www.marinco.com/en/303ssel-b/30-amp-125v-cast-316-stainless-steel-power-inlet

I'll take some pictures tonight.

 

[sberry]

Not that this matters,,,,,,,,,,,,,, just for giggles,,,,,,,,,, and doesn't apply to available recepticals but travel trailers are an exception in that they allow 14 for a limited length to light fixtures as part of a 20A circuit.
I got an airstream and that 12v stuff is for sheet. I had it on to run a couple lights and going to disconnect the unit and switch a couple lamp fixtures from 120v. Now days this is probably done inverter vs 12v.

 

[sberry]

This is one of those jobs that while its nice to brain every detail in the end you kick yourself for not taking the simple approach, the ceiling height and area are such a guy can reach a switch on a lamp or mount up a power strip in the real area you need it, they have different cords, can play with it all via common connectors till you get it trick.
Not every corner needs to be bright as Texas sun and there is no magic formula to the perfect outlet spacing. Use smaller appliances, I got a modest little micro, is similar to low flow fixtures takes 30 seconds longer but can run it on same circuit as a modest air comp, same with a toaster and heater on low, try to conserve with sectioning if possible, there are several things one can do to live comfy on a single 120V.

 

[TX63CONV]

Here is the inlet I used: http://www.marinco.com/en/303ssel-b/30-amp-125v-cast-316-stainless-steel-power-inlet

I'll take some pictures tonight.

I would have to have an adapter to plug into a standard outlet.

The trailer is finished out with alum panels on the inside. I assume I should use flex conduit for my runs?

 

[sberry]

Yes, you can use some flex but this is what I was getting at a bit, put the entrance in to recpt and you can use cord and plug from there. I have done that, after it all proves out or is needed run a pipe etc.
I don't always click on links so I miss some of this but that outlet is not for this, that is for a travel trailer for 30A service with additional panel in it.

If you use 20 you do not need any additional equipment in the trailer provided its plugged in to 20A circuit. But yes, you could feed it thru an adapter. If you do this it needs a 20A cord if extra is used,,, I have used 100 ft of 16 but I was operator and calculated the load.
If you want 30A 120 then panel after a number 10 wire for entrance.

 

[sberry]

I think you can see one here, 30A in

 

[ibedayank]

its called a motor base plug male prongs so you just plug right in

to see what others have done look here
http://www.tnttt.com/viewforum.php?f=42&sid=bba698d35593ae898215675bf0e5eb93

 

[Blk88GT]

I would have to have an adapter to plug into a standard outlet.

The trailer is finished out with alum panels on the inside. I assume I should use flex conduit for my runs?

Here's what I use if I can't use my 30A: http://www.marinco.com/en/104spp/pi...ing-to-15a-125v-straight-blade-with-led-light

I did my trailer in EMT.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Also keep in mind that AC is rated at 11amp but it likely pulls double that when the compressor kicks on for a short period of time. If it were me (and I do a lot or RV/trailer power/media ****) and I were putting a TV or any kind of sensitive electronics in there I would install a nice size UPS for those devices alone. Not only will that give you clean power for your TV but when the AC compressor kicks on the UPS can kick in for a second if the power gets too low for the TV. It's not the most ideal way to do it but when you're stuck with limited power at a track you do what you have to do.

We've set up quite a few enclosed trailers with inverters for everything from TVs to large sewing machines for a guy doing large flag repair on the road. Your AC would kill an inverter way too quick but they work great for smaller power loads.

Chris- shame you are too far away. You ever get to any tracks near Dallas? I like the idea of ups and will definitely plan for that. I imagine that most of the tracks have a 30amp hook up but have to pay for it. I will probably end up on a generator but wouldn't the interior wiring setup be the same?

I would like to try plugging into one of the paddock outlets for now and then add a generator later if needed.

Alternatively, u could get an avr(automatic voltage regulator). If u do get a UPS make sure to get one with AVR. Most of the low end UPSs don't do AVR, so your electronics will still see low voltage to a point before the battery kicks in.

 

[sberry]

I got super sturdy service and minor voltage drop so it isn't much of an issue but have ran 2 air conds and a tv off of 20A. It was a fukup but one a 12kbtu and the other a 5 or 6. I ran 12 and TV for years. A little of this is how good is the incoming power, it everyone getting their bit loading the service on a holiday weekend on the end of 150 ft of cord?