Adding 15 x 30 lean to

[Rodney69]

Hello everyone first time poster long time viewer,
Getting ready to have concrete slab poured, and want to add a 15 x 30 lean to onto my 30 x 30 x 10 stick built garage with 1 foot overhang . ( walls on 16 o.c., and rafters on 48 o.c) Would like to have the most height possible and not sure how to tie into existing garage. I am going to take siding off of course and move window to the new lean to outside wall. I am probably going to stay with 16 oc with new lean to or could i get away with 24 o.c.? Ilive in Central Missouri and you never know here if you'll get an inch of snow or 2 foot in winter, questions are rafter design, lumber dimension recommendations and so can anyone give me a little help.I've included a couple of pics as well Thanks in advance

 

[Rodney69]

Another pic

 

[Rodney69]

 

[sofob0909]

Subscribed. Looking to possibly do the same thing to my 30x30 barn

 

[spotco2]

Post a pic of the other side of that wall.

Most are probably going to tell you that you should remove the facia board and tie into the existing trusses or brace on top of your existing wall.

You're going to have to have a pretty good slope on that lean to roof up there. Your outside wall height is going to be a little short I think at 15'.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Pull the facia board, add a ledger board on the siding under the eaves and have fun. Simple project, doable with a couple of friends.

If this is going to be an interior part of your garage, then you can pull the siding, but personally I'd leave it. Put new siding on your addition and leave the solid wall inside. Pull the siding if you want- I'd want that solid wall dividing your old and new bays. Add a door or pair of double doors between them. You may want to use this new space for machine tools, parts, or other things to keep your main workspace clear. And that solid wall between the two areas gives you a lot of wall space for storage, tool boxes, etc.

Wish I could do this to my garage, but I'm too close to the property line now as it is.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Looks like you currently have a 4/12 pitch roof and 10' sidewalls.

If you carry the same pitch on the lean to, it'll give you a 5' exterior wall.

If you lower the pitch to a 3/12, it gives you about a 6'3" wall

and dropping it down to a 12/2 pitch, will give you more headroom at 7'6".


Looks like you may have to tear off part of the metal roof and do some truss and rafter work to gain some head room.

 

[Daniel Dudley]

Looks like you may have to tear off part of the metal roof and do some truss and rafter work to gain some head room.

This, you can run your rafters partway up the roof, or all the way to the ridge. You can support it by building a kneewall over the existing wall.

Drawing a plan makes things clear around wall heights and construction details.

 

[brownbagg]

ever thought about a steel frame lean tool. it be a post on each end, one in the middle with a purlin have way up. with tin screwed on outside wall and roof. you could get a turn key kit from local steel building mfg

 

[Fyrme]

Since you are in central Mo, have you thought about chicken house scissor trusses? You can but a whole 30-40' truss set for less than $150 a piece. if you get a 30'er you can use each half on your lean-to. So at 30' long, you will only need 5 trusses. This is will be how I'm going to build my pole barn. And on a side note, you are recycling, if that's your thing.

 

[A747]

I'm also in the process of adding a lean to addition to the side of my garage.

Already have the header boards attached to the side and gettting ready to put up the 4x4s for the support posts. Wondering if precast pier blocks would be sufficient to support both the vertical and horizontal 4x4s. I live in So Cal if it makes any differnce.

 

[holdover]

I have a 16' X 60' lean-to on my garage. The garage itself is 2X6 construction with T-111 on the outside, sidewall height is 10.5' lean-to is steped down 6" lower than garage floor and designed to be that way. Roof pitch on the garage is 5/12, I did 2/12 pitch on the lean-to enough for drainage and to allow reasonable height inside lean-to. Rafters are 2 X 12 16" OC tied into a 2 X 12 header board screwed into the studs and also bolted through every 4th stud, I did not remove the t-111 and the header board is also screwed from the T-111 side with 2" coated screws, rafters are tied in with strong tie joist supports outside wall is 6X6 posts at 8' OC notched on one side with 2 X 12 inside and out, and being that I tend to overbuild and I live in a heavy storm area, I placed a 4X4 parallel under the rafters at the garage wall, screwed into it from the inside and placed 4X4s supporting it down to the floor, no way anything is going move... . Rafters sit on top of outside posts and header boards with storm ties on every rafter, 12" overhang, tin roof which I slid up under roof overhang resting against T111 garage roof has 18" overhang so there is no blow in leakage even with severe wind. T111 on purlins on outside wall, been up 5+ years and has had 40" of snow and ice on it a few years ago. No drainage problems

 

[Rodney69]

Hey Everybody, been a busy weekend and just now been able to get back online, thanks for all your replies and suggestions.

 

[chevy2]

I have a 16' X 60' lean-to on my garage. The garage itself is 2X6 construction with T-111 on the outside, sidewall height is 10.5' lean-to is steped down 6" lower than garage floor and designed to be that way. Roof pitch on the garage is 5/12, I did 2/12 pitch on the lean-to enough for drainage and to allow reasonable height inside lean-to. Rafters are 2 X 12 16" OC tied into a 2 X 12 header board screwed into the studs and also bolted through every 4th stud, I did not remove the t-111 and the header board is also screwed from the T-111 side with 2" coated screws, rafters are tied in with strong tie joist supports outside wall is 6X6 posts at 8' OC notched on one side with 2 X 12 inside and out, and being that I tend to overbuild and I live in a heavy storm area, I placed a 4X4 parallel under the rafters at the garage wall, screwed into it from the inside and placed 4X4s supporting it down to the floor, no way anything is going move... . Rafters sit on top of outside posts and header boards with storm ties on every rafter, 12" overhang, tin roof which I slid up under roof overhang resting against T111 garage roof has 18" overhang so there is no blow in leakage even with severe wind. T111 on purlins on outside wall, been up 5+ years and has had 40" of snow and ice on it a few years ago. No drainage problems

Could we get a picture from the inside? sound very sturdy B.T.W. .

 

[Cemoto]

ever thought about a steel frame lean tool. it be a post on each end, one in the middle with a purlin have way up. with tin screwed on outside wall and roof. you could get a turn key kit from local steel building mfg

I've tried searching for this type and have not had any luck. Any links or pointers are appreciated.

Regards,

 

[Mikea57]

Subscribed. I'm wanting to do the very same thing, except I don't want to tie in to the existing structure and all. I need it high enough to get my tractor ROPS under it.

Oh, I'm not planning on enclosing mine. I just want a roof to keep the rain off the tractor, a boat and some implements.

 

[chevy2]

Any updates ?