Adding 2 by 6's to garage ceiling - how?

[tomsop]

I have an attached garage with basically just enough trusses to keep the walls from collapsing (which is my understanding of why the trusses are spaced so far apart). I want a drywall ceiling. I would need to add 2 by 6's in between somehow. Also as you can see from the pics there are these two corner braces on the far walls that would interfere with installing drywall.

The questions I have is I don't know how to install the 2 by 6's to create the support I need for drywall. Is there a resource that explains this? Can enough support be added to allow removal of the cross braces? I believe the current 2 by 6's are 48 inches on center.

Would I also attach vertical pieces to the top rafters similar to the existing truss framework for support similar to the existing trusses? (My question is not very clear so I'm referring to the picture that I took in the middle of the garage with the vertical boards that are attached).

Finally how many hours would it take my garage is 19 by 22. Trying to figure out aside from not knowing what to do how much it would cost to get it finished. I am having trouble uploading pics so I will do that soon.

 

[tomsop]

 

[why worry]

Looks like your garage is stick framed, i would add the additional framing to match the existing . As far as the diagonals go in the corners you could probably add them on top of the existing framing then remove them from the bottom. As far as time goes you could probably figure about 1 hour each for the shorter pieces and a couple hours each for the new bottom cords. Pick up a drop down folding stair for access. Also don't forget to grab some Simpson strong tie hurricane clips for attaching the rafters to the top plate. Most of it you could do by your self but I would definitely get a buddy to help with horsing the bottom cords in place. Grab a six pack or two for when your finished.
As far as cost goes put a materials list together and your local lumber yard should be able to help price it out. Home Depot or Lowes probably won't have the bottom cords as you will want some pretty good lumber for them. 20 foot 2 X 8's assuming your going the short way will still be a pretty penny.

 

[Al G]

Have you considered a dropped ceiling instead of drywall? It would save a lot of framing.

 

[fastev]

I had the same situation in my garage. My ceilings were 9' 6" tall, so losing a little height wasn't a big deal. I lag bolted a ledger to the top plates of the wall all the way around the perimeter of the garage. Then I was able to use joist hangers nailed to the ledger to support new ceiling joists that run the width of the garage on 16" centers. I did add a rat-runner and some kickers up to the rafters in a few places.
I got my finished ceiling and an added bonus was installing a dropdown ladder for access to the new attic for some additional storage space..
I'll post a few pictures of the process when I get home.

 

[jnkpile]

No need to add extra rafters, what I would do is add strapping to the existing trusses on 16" or 24" centers to accommodate your Sheetrock. Yes you can remove those corner braces, the strapping and Sheetrock will do the job.

 

[67carl]

My existing structure was slightly different than yours, but you may be able to do this. Before:

 

[67carl]

I set my joists on the walls top plate, toenailed them in then cut blocking to go in between. I decided to put them on top rather than use joist hangers on the side just so I could have more ceiling height. Solid. Could probably park a car on it. I went this route so I could add attic space and peace of mind that it won't cone crashing down on my car. Maybe overkill if you're not going to use the space above.

 

[jwvess00]

Hi there!

My pole barn has trusses 5' on center, and I wante a ceiling. I had an engineer inspect the building to make sure I wasn't going to over-stress the trusses, then I added 2x4s 2' on center between the trusses. In my 36' deep building that was 18 (19? don't remember) 57" long 2x4s, toenailed in place between the bottom chords of the trusses.

Even if your bottom chords are 2x6s, you don't need to use lumber that big for your ceiling. 2x4s would be just fine to hold up drywall.

Here's a shot of what I did:

 

[rburke65]

It would take about 16 hours.

 

[tomsop]

Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking about the idea of putting 2 x 6 on top of the plates and using 2 x 4's to block off between the 2 by 6 and the existing chords. Would you advise attaching boards up to the rafters similar to what was done in picture 3 that I posted?

To answer the other questions I want a drywall ceiling for installation purposes as well.

As to the corner braces I can't imagine taking them out and trying to attach from top because the diagonals would then have to go over the 2 by 6's that I add. I was wondering what rondo with them other than just running drywall up to and over the bottom which would break up the ceiling surface.

Thanks for the comments and ideas.

 

[cdestuck]

Looking at you roof I see it's a hip roof. If it were my garage, I'd have no problem removing those corner braces. Bet they were put in place during construction to keep things square while building. With the garage all completed, it's all locked together.

 

[ForceFed70]

Looking at you roof I see it's a hip roof. If it were my garage, I'd have no problem removing those corner braces. Bet they were put in place during construction to keep things square while building. With the garage all completed, it's all locked together.

Agreed. Those corner braces were ment as "temporary braces" put in place until the trusses could be fully secured and sheeted.

The quickest and easiest way to do this would be to put 2x4 strapping down 24" OC perpendicular to the trusses, but you'd loose 1.5" of ceiling height.

Otherwise, it looks like you could easily put in additional 2x6s between the existing trusses.