Adding 4 #12 on a nut

[mobiledynamics]

Existing
1 Feed
2 Outlets
3 #12's pre-twisted solid on a wirenut


Fished a new #12 for another drop.

How would you have terminated this ?

I initially just put the lead next to the twisted bunch, put a wirenut on it and twisted it (black wire). Proceeded to twist the 2nd bunch (neutral) and the damm nut broke off with the spring nice and tight on it. Using my 3M Tan/Reds.

Not feeling too good about the connection, I stripped the news wires a bit longer, used my Dykes and did a loop around the already *pretwisted 3 wire #12*. Then I went with the bigger/fatter Blue Wirenut and called it a day.

I've never added a solid to a pre-existing twist before.
Generally, with all my solid runs, I twist them, then give it a snip with the Dykes and then a wirenut..


I suppose I could had just cut all the pretwisted wires at the straight part and started fresh.....but I did not want to shorten the slack in the box.

 

[1grnlwn]

Best reason I could see for not pretwisting the wires.

 

[rockwithjason]

pretwisting had nothing to do with it, you need bigger wire nuts

 

[theoldwizard1]

Using my 3M Tan/Yellows.

RED are rated for 4 #12s

 

[mobiledynamics]

3M Tan/Reds are rated for 5 #12

 

[justsam]

I think I would have a go at using the push in wire connectors if the bundle is 3 or more. Something like the Ideal brand product.

Yes I am sure there are many that will say this is "back stab" or over again!

 

[mobiledynamics]

To followup on the original thread, the spring does makes some *bite marks* in the copper.

Generally, when I pretwist, I twist by the ends/tips, and then snip. Leaving the copper surface untouch as the *spring* does do some minute level of mechanical grip.

In the current application, I had no choice but to use the dykes to loop the solid onto the existing twisted bunch. Putting *some* wrench marks on them. Minute at most, but I don't think the wirenut would bite as much/better than the with a unmarred surface.

This is taking the over-analyzing to over-analyzing.

Give the choice of a Wago, I would have just cut the twisted ends, put new pigtails and started a fresh pretwist.....with my new wire.

 

[Mustang51js]

If it's two outlets I usually daisy chain them, if I had to nut them then I get the right size one. But when you twist wires together using your linesman you have to pull as you are twisting. I bet I can get a tan nut on 5 #12, it's all how you twist the wire.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

To followup on the original thread, the spring does makes some *bite marks* in the copper.

Generally, when I pretwist, I twist by the ends/tips, and then snip. Leaving the copper surface untouch as the *spring* does do some minute level of mechanical grip.

The spring is there because it has more than a minute amount of mechanical grip. The wire nut is UL listed as a "pressure connector". The idea is the spring squeezes the wires together. You put them together all nice and straight, a tight parallel bunch, and run the wire nut down on them. It cuts threads into the wires as it goes, and being tapered, squeezes the wires tighter and tighter.

Charles

 

[gasaxeman]

Red buchannn, works every time

 

[jeff000]

Best reason I could see for not pre twisting the wires.

Any decent wirenut will leave the wires twisted if you take it off.

Just undo the splice by twisting backwards, insert new wire to the bundle, use new appropriate wire nut.

I personally never reuse a wire nut.

 

[mobiledynamics]

My solid splices are pretty tight.....
I generally pre-twist and the twist ends up about 3/4-1" past the uninsulated...

Easier just to cut off the twisted portion than to untwist and start fresh.

I KNOW the majority of the decent nut manuf. instruction say no twist needed.
I've seen what loose connections can do. Better peace of mind when pre-twisting with solid. Stranded, no twist needed.....

I know the pre-twist versus no twisted is hotly debated.

One day, I'll give the Wagos a try. I'm thinking I might try them in the new splice box project I have--- in which there will be 10 pairs of 12AWG, and a pair of 10AWG needing splicing. The Wagos might make for a very NEAT clean looking splice box..

 

[67carl]

One day, I'll give the Wagos a try. I'm thinking I might try them in the new splice box project I have--- in which there will be 10 pairs of 12AWG, and a pair of 10AWG needing splicing. The Wagos might make for a very NEAT clean looking splice box..

I LOVE the Wagos. Didn't know they even existed until I bought some recessed cans for the garage and they had Wagos. Guys on this site educated me on them and I bought a box each of 2 wire, 4 wire and 6 wire. By this time I had most of my garage wiring done and all I could think of was why couldn't I have found out about these things sooner! They were a dream to use and didn't take up as much space in the box. If you do wiring for a living then maybe these aren't a big deal, but for the person who wires occasionally it turns an unpleasant job into no big deal.