Adding a Garage to a New Home - $/Sqft Inquiry

[CudaA39]

Long time lurker, first time poster, located in Pittsburgh, PA. My wife and I met with a local home builder to plan out our (hopefully) forever home. I requested they price out adding a 40'(wide)x32'(deep) garage off to one side to be used as a 3 car storage/service + workshop. This is the general size I want +/- a foot or two in either direction depending on expert opinion. They quoted $50/sq ft, flat rate based on size, for a 2x4 shell and 3' poured concrete walls, matching exterior (siding), electric to code (vague), and 4" pad. This increases to $52/ft for a 6" pad for car lifts, and $58/fr for 6" pad + 2x6 walls.

I have had absolutely zero luck in getting any pole barn or accessory building contractor to email or call me back, so I have no comparison. I have already received a variance to do a 1500sq ft accessory building from when we originally started out, so attaching to the main home isn't required.

I'm sure I'm leaving out some important details, but does this $50-$58/sq ft seem reasonable or do I stand to save a considerable amount going elsewhere from the home builder and waiting on a contractor? I can insulate, wire, drywall, finish the inside myself, but can't do the structure.

 

[Showkey]

Certainly not out of line........especially in this housing market and economy. There would be some economy and efficiency in using the same contractor.

Since you mentioned it was going to match the home in style and siding etc........would your area even allow a pole or metal building ?

 

[a6hux]

Just let them frame it up and dry it in, you can finish the rest. Easy to figure out price of materials with a little bit of math.

 

[CudaA39]

Luckily it's on a 2 acre lot on a private road, so I'm not required to match the home. I don't even think my wife would care as long at it's not an eyesore.

Suprisingly, when I asked about just the shell, the price only dropped to $45/ft not including the pad or wall changes.

 

[nicholsmf]

$50 to $58 seems reasonable. I'm waiting for my builder to get started on my shop in East TN and I'm at $50 sqft for a 30x40x12 block building

 

[Tracs]

Luckily it's on a 2 acre lot on a private road, so I'm not required to match the home. I don't even think my wife would care as long at it's not an eyesore.

Suprisingly, when I asked about just the shell, the price only dropped to $45/ft not including the pad or wall changes.

That is the reality of having something built. For example if the finished garage cost $50,000, asking a builder to get it to the point of just framed up is still gonna cost almost $50,000. All the $$ is in labor to do the ground work, pad, and framing. Not knowing the price of material/concrete where you are, but I would assume the materials package and concrete would only be $15,000

 

[Jeff Ivers]

If I did the math right, you were quoted about $60,000 for about 1280 sq ft. Nothing is said about the number and type of doors and/or windows. Nothing was said about interior finish. Nothing was said about water plumbed to the area. Nothing was said about heat and or air conditioning. Nothing was said about floor drain. If these items are not included to meet your needs, I would say that is way too much money. The last time I built anything was a 1200 sq ft pole barn about 10 years ago. The cost for the structure with 2 sliding doors and one man door with 4' slab for 3/4 of the building was around $10,000. No water, no electric, no heat or air.

 

[carnutdallas]

Pretty fair. Make sure you have some floor drains and basic plumbing for a work sink. A basic bathroom would be nice. Go 6” and thicker walls. Don’t look back. Just do it.


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[CudaA39]

I appreciate the input everyone. Going to try and reach back out to a handful of contractors again this week. Unfortunately the pricing I received today was vague on plumbing and windows. They include "standard" but for me, and likely anyone else who is on a garage forum, standard won't cut it. Once I get started I'll be sure to start a thread on here as well.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

It is very hard to put a $/sq. ft. number together on almost anything, because everyone will do things differently or have different finishes. 2x4 wall, 2x6, pole barn, etc.

When we were starting to build our house, our builder put it very well to us. He said, I can build a 1800 sq ft house for 350K or 700K depending on what you want. Do you want imported flooring or cheap laminate flooring everywhere? I know this analogy may be extreme, but it does get one to think about things.

I planned to have a large garage with 3 220V outlets, so my build wasn't a standard for the builder. That is why we chose a custom home builder, to get what we wanted and not one of his "X" number of plans.

 

[larry_g]

How does this compare to the house cost/sq ft? I ask this because if your paying big for the house then the garage is going to cost proportionally more than if your doing a budget house build.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Until you have a "Scope of Work" on paper- that number really means nothing.

 

[sleek98]

I paid 32 a sq foot for our detached.

2x6 wall
4" concrete pad
3' foot frost footings
12' high walls
8/12 pitch roof with 30 year shingles
2- 12x10 doors 1 16x10 door
Stucco/stone front, normal siding on back and sides
200 amp panel, 1 light and 1 outlet to meet code

That was just the shell. I did the rest of the electrical and insulation on my own after it we closed.

We ended up close to $110-115 for the house itself, not including the land or the garage. Based upon that I would think you would want to be in the 1/3 to 1/2 range of the sq foot for the rest of the house.

 

[3onthetree]

1280SF 3-stall garage for $64K, vanilla spec, no specifics on insulation, roof framing, style, and everything else JeffIvers and Dieselman bring up, seems a bit high for middle America. 3' concrete kneewalls will push your $$ higher though.

There is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY (no matter how many members affirm their costs on GarageJournal or any other internet forum) to use a square foot cost to compare a complete residential structure in different regions, or even in the same region built by the same builder but at a different location. Judging a SF cost to determine a fair price is uninformed and misguided, and should only be used as a "ballpark." There are way too many variables in site-specific design and material selection which will greatly increase/decrease the final cost. Doing the math by dividing your final cost (and will that include permitting, construction insurance, temp fencing/erosion control, rain tarps, etc?) by SF is just for shits and giggles.

If you want, as examples, you can use SF cost to compare:
- concrete sidewalks (all 4" thick, no rebar, no subbase, admixture or finish variations)
- asphalt shingles + labor per SQ (given same spec of product, shingles only)
- sod (same species)
So you can do some individual "parts" of a building that will not have variations in design. Even vinyl siding, which although you can pinpoint a $/SQ, will vary for a whole house depending on how many windows to frame, whether you use J channels, or mounting blocks.

Where SF estimate cost is acceptable is if you are building a jail, or a school, where the construction style and materials is standard across the board and you can apply location factors.

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

Our builder charged us $40/square foot to expand the footprint of the attached garage. That was 4" concrete, 2x6 dry walled, same roof/exterior finish (brick/vinyl) as rest of house. No electricity or heat but I think he did put in an extra overhead bulb or two. Paid separately for garage doors, insulation, 6" pad w/mesh in specific areas, and 12' ceiling.

 

[dcg9381]

Variations in labor are high - what costs $50/sqft here might cost $150/sqft somewhere else, so hard to tell.

One way to try to get "DIY" bids (you're the GC) is to go by the steel supplier and talk to the salesman - they will know the local erectors. If you can do the permitting /variance work yourself, that will make it easier. But generally, permits are doing in the contractor/GCs, name - so YMMV.



What is the height of your garage? Concrete is expensive. Going up, not so expensive.

Also note -the upcharge that you're being pushed for in regard to a lift and 6" pad is appropriate, but (perhaps) can be avoided by using concrete beams (which may be there anyway in a 4" pad) and just a little engineering...

Whatever you do, put a bunch of conduit in that slab, at least 3 places, running across, terminating inside and at least 2 conduit drops per corner - IE - water and electrical. Conduit is cheap.

 

[ddawg16]

I'm assuming there has to be drawings.

The $50/sq ft is not out of line assuming it includes drywall.

However, the 'to code' for the electrical would be a red flag. What is code and what you really want are two different things.

If it was me....I'd go empty shell with a 50A sub panel in the garage with no ckts (run them yourself)

4" is fine for the concrete. If you do get a lift......a 4 post won't need any additional concrete...2-post? Just saw cut a section and pour a deeper pad.

If you don't do it now, then just plan on a detached later. Trying to attach it to the side of the existing house will just add cost.

 

[IMXCITD]

not sure where in PA you are....have you considered getting some Amish quotes? I understand they do amazing work at good prices.

 

[yeldogt]

Guys use square foot pricing typically as a guide ... it's a way to make some general observation about what they normally build ... or a guess about building something of various qualities.

Hay .. "how much to build me a 1300 sf garage to match the house" Should be the same quality. Sounds like he gave you some options .... it's not hard to factor the few items to build a garage ... not many parts.

I ask new to me contractors what price point they normally build .... it quickly tells you a lot.

Having built quite a few thing in my life ... the guy you pick for the house should do the garage. Integrating the two items will save you money and time. Having it completed will save you the aggravation. It's will cost more .. doing otherwise. IMO that a very good deal.

Insulation and drywall are cheap - especially as add-on items of a build. The windows cost what they cost ... you want a good door.

The only thing that may cost about the same is the electrical inside

Separate building -- trenching for services is combined

 

[ard]

I prefer stick build. IMO it is easier to finish; easier to insulate and seal; easier to fit cabinets, other stuff against walls. IMO it looks better too.

I also think it will retain more value for resale, although likely not a consideration for you. (forever home)

How high? 12 ft? 14? didnt see you list that. IMO go 2x6. Insulate.

Also go 6" of concrete. Gonnna disagree w dd that you 'can just cut out an re-pour'...The incremental cost is $2 sf or $2400, which is steep for 8 cu yards of concrete. Tell them you will pay $800.

There is an interesting thing at play here....people are going nuts trying to get a contractor to show up and bid on a standalone shop/garage. Since you are doing the house too, it gets their attention. ALSO, the incremental cost for the contractor to add on a garage when he is doing a whole house is less than a standalone. Less overhead for him, less overhead and hassle for every one of the subs too.


FInally, you need a TON of details to move forward. On the slab alone: rebar? mess? fiber? Control joints cut? How strong? 3000psi or 4000?

But.... GJ will be a great place for "How do I spec a slab...or a wall...or a shell...or insulation..or or or.

 

[nzjkb5]

I am getting ready to build a 30 x 42 garage, and I know exactly where I am going to place a 2-post lift. I am going with a 4.5" thick, 4000 psi slab, but under each of the lift posts, there will be a 4'x4' area that is 6" deep. Very little added cost, and it meets the lift manufacturer's specs for what to do if your existing pad isn't thick enough.

 

[iowa4x4dieselman]

How does this compare to the house cost/sq ft? I ask this because if your paying big for the house then the garage is going to cost proportionally more than if your doing a budget house build.

lg
no neat sig line

All in with 50K in the lot, our 1850 sq ft ranch home with daylight basement, and 1250 sq ft garage. We will be a little over 400K. not finishing the basement

The garage and basement have floor heat with 2 inch foam underneath(combi boiler), garage doors are r-17.19, 3-220v outlets in garage. 15ft trench drain. 12'2" garage walls 9ft main and basement. 50% front face of house is stone, rest is vinyl, asphalt shingles.

There are so many variables when building. our original bid was 385k, but the changes add up quickly. flooring we went over 1k, cabinets 1K, the combi boiler was 2k extra from standard water heater, garage doors were 2k over, windows were 4k over. The in floor heat was done myself, so i saved labor on that aspect. The list of items you can go over on is endless! I wanted to do this once, so i have made some sacrifices, and worked extra hours to make our dream home a reality.

I am sure there will be some things that i wish i would've done (basement now) but its a give and take, to me the basement can be done at anytime, but i cant install floor heat later easily, or add outlets.

 

[WisJim]

I'm in the process of getting quotes for a 24 by 40 garage and shop building with an attic room using attic trusses. Foam under the slab and around the perimeter, pole barn type of siding and roofing but 2x6 stud construction. First bid was about $56,000 and included everything from site work to windows, doors, and fiberglass insulation, but no electrical or plumbing. I'm waiting for more estimates now and will probably do the inside work myself with my sons' help. They are too busy with their own lives to do the whole thing, and I'm no longer in good enough shape to do it all myself, the way I did other places 50 years ago.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

Just as a comparison, I am building an attached 28'x40' garage with attic trusses this spring.

Framing, roofing, siding, electrical and excavation by me.
Concrete and materials for framing, electrical and finishing exterior are right at $40/sqft

 

[124ci]

Without a doubt, have the same contractor do both. I built a home about 2.5 years ago. I am just finishing a garage that I started awhile back. 28x36 inside. The only thing that I did not participate in was the concrete and drywall. I did a stem wall and slab vs monolithic, it also has scissor trusses in one bay. That was about $9000 of it. I am at $34 a square ft now. I figured it at about 25. That does include swamp cooler and a/c heat pump. My friend built same size shop as mine, his has bath and a floor drain, and he did not do near the work I did, for $30. It was built when they built his house, same contractor.

 

[HPRifleman]

We have recently been getting estimates on a 25' x 45' attached garage.

• Full foundation
• Stick built
• Brick exterior
• 18' door and 9' door
• Drywall interior
• Some storage capability in attic
• A couple of windows and a man door
• Insulated
• Trimmed & finished

About $120,000 without driveway or architect's fees.

If you want to build a cheap garage, don't use concrete or brick.

 

[parb]

I'm in SF Bay area and my prices are very steep. However I agree with all the posters that your better off with the builder building it for you. I would spec out what you want in detail, especially things you intend to have them start and you complete yourself. I would have them do the outside in a design that matches your home, you may have to sell it due to life circumstances so make that easy when you can.dont be the guy with the quirky house and even quirker garage.

Here is a collection of random thoughts of things that I thought of:
Sub panel and amp service? I would do minimum lights and outlets to code and do the rest myself (but I have that skill)
Slope and any drains?
Water and sink? I love a decent deep stainless steel sink where I work, makes it easy to clean stuff and my hands without dragging the muck into the house.
Doors and windows? I love a window that opens up in the summer on an opposing wall so I get a bit of airflow.
Rollup or garage doors is something I would have them do (I **** at that).
Don't skimp on concrete, pout enough so you can put in a 2 post lift without any issues. You would kick yourself if you don't do that right up front.
I would go 12' or even better 14' roof height. I really wish I had that height in my garage.

I'm a geek so I would have the electrical guy pull cat5 lines from your main house when they add the sub panel. It's great to have internet in the garage. I use it to look up plans and drawings (and sometimes youtube instructions) on my computer, and I have a tablet mounted to my workbench. WiFi works too, but hard wired is generally better.

In my climate i can go without insulation or ac, if needed a portable swamp cooler works pretty well. If I was in PA I probably would want some kind of insulation and maybe a heater so i can tolerate being out in the garage during the winter.

To me $50-70k to get my long term hobby and repairs of household items and cars done right, with a builder that delivers quality seems like a good idea. If you are financing at 4% you're under $200 per month at a 30 year fixed and I got to imagine that you will get at least that dollar amount worth of benefit from your garage.

From a negotiations point of view I would ask for a statement of work and a quote, from there I would ask him to shave off 10% without changing the scope. Remember, the builder has efficiencies from having a crew onsite, a concrete sign only needs to go there once. Let have the builder share that efficiency with you.

I've done mostly interior remodel but I was close to a whole house build last year. In the end I backed out but I was far enough down the path that I had a pretty good idea of my pricing locally and what I wanted to do.

 

[yeldogt]

How does this compare to the house cost/sq ft? I ask this because if your paying big for the house then the garage is going to cost proportionally more than if your doing a budget house build.

lg
no neat sig line

My guess is that most would not build a budget garage attached to a new house .. so, the house is driving the garage cost.

Another factor is the builder ... the better builders have a base level they build. They tell you up front .. we don't build 'X" .."Y"

With a big enough lot a pole type utility build may work .... but, they often look odd close to a house ...

 

[mannydantyla]

will the city/county let you be your own general contractor? That's what I intend on doing. Yeah I'll make a lot of mistakes and probably injure myself more than once but I'm determined, and I have the resources and a little experience. Of course the foundation is not really DIY territory. But wall framing and roof trusses are. Siding and shingle work, I might hire that out.

 

[CudaA39]

Wow time flies when you're locked down with a 10 month old ha! I really appreciate every replied, photo, and feedback, I wasn't disappointed with the detailed information. Just wanted to give an update since I've neglected this thread over the past few months and give some additional details.

We decided to switch home builders, for multiple reasons, to a new one who unfortunately made it clear they weren't interested in building anything of this size attached to the custom home we designed. Amazing how "the sky is the limit" for the home, but adding three additional walls and a roof is rocket science. After pretty much pleading with them, they gave me a $65-75k range for a standard 4" floor, 2x6 frame, 8' ceilings, everything else to code building with insulated and drywalled interior. Positive is it's attached to the main structure (2,400sq ft)

The first contractor that did get back to me for a detached structure gave me a $65k+ bid for a 28'x40' only (no insulation, no electric, no plumbing, no finish work). Ideally this is the situation I would prefer, but I felt the price was reflecting his 90 min one way drive to the job site each day.

I'm hoping to meet with a local group this weekend to discuss another bid. If all goes well, I'll have them start construction towards the 90% mark of home completion. If not, I'm going to act as my own subcontractor, sub out the foundation and block work, and do the framing and finish work myself. It will be a learning experience but unfortunately I'm stubborn enough that I'm willing to sacrifice it. I'm an engineer by trade, and have a few buddies who can swing a hammer.

In a perfect scenario, I'd like to do the 30x40 out of 2x6s, non insulated to start, 100 amp subpanel installed with no circuitry run throughout, water connected from the house, 1+ floor drain, 5" slab of 4000psi and I can do the hydronic tubing run and insulation prior for hookup occuring at a later date, 16'x10' and 10'x10' garage doors with 1 man door. Exterior would be split face block to just above grade, with the Alsiding to match the main structure. Everything else I can add as I grow into the structure. If detached, I can be persuaded to get a separate electric service, which I will likely bump to 200amp.

 

[jkeyser14]

MD here. We built a custom home 3 years ago and the builder also used $50 a sq. ft. for garage pricing, but this was 2x6 construction, 4" 4000 psi concrete slab, insulated and drywalled (sanded and paint ready), 2x R12 overhead doors a man door, and 4 windows. Vinly siding and stone to match the house. It also had attic trusses for creating a bonus room.

Some of the builder's price adders were 200A sub panel ($1k), a bunch of 120v 20A outlets at $75 each, 220v 50A outlets at a price of $500 ea, minisplit at a cost of $5k. There was also high lift garage door tracks and jackshaft door opener for ~$1k extra.

So depending on what your builder is including the pricing isn't too far out there. Material has gone up a lot in cost over the past 3 years years.