Adding a remote switch to my compressor?

[infinkc]

I have my compressor in a room that is somewhat a pain to turn it on and off.
Any ideas how to make this wireless? So I can turn on and off remotely? On the compressor is just a standard wall switch to make a connection.

not sure if they make “smart” switches with the standard toggle to still fit in the box. Also I probably would have to wire it such to have power also as the switch now is just a dumb switch.

 

[jack stand]

Use the breaker in the panel?

 

[infinkc]

unfortunately the breaker is feeding a sub, and he sub is just as hard to get to as the switch.

 

[FMB4]

A 'smart/wireless' 3 prong receptacle/adapter of the proper amp capacity (of course) is what you're looking for. Not sure if such a thing at the amp rating you need is available tho. Note: I've been running a cheap eB*y 3 prong 15 amp wireless recept adapter for the 40 watt flor 2 tube light and 60 watt LED spotlight over my workbench for years now.

 

[BCreekDave]

Your compressor appears to have a magnetic starter. If so, it is easy to wire in to the circuit that activated magnetic coil which is typically only 110V with an home automation type of remote switchable outlet. This is low amperage (<15 amp).

 

[finn]

Story is somewhat confusing.

Your compressor is required to have a disconnect within a line of sight of the machine. A switch that isn’t accessible doesn’t meet the spirit of that requirement.

Similarly, a breaker panel has to be accessible and there is a spec for clearance around it, including nothing below it. If you are code compliant you should have access.

 

[nadogail]

I am guessing a single pole switch in series with the coil on your magnetic controller would be the simple solution.

 

[FMB4]

Story is somewhat confusing.

Your compressor is required to have a disconnect within a line of sight of the machine. A switch that isn’t accessible doesn’t meet the spirit of that requirement.

Similarly, a breaker panel has to be accessible and there is a spec for clearance around it, including nothing below it. If you are code compliant you should have access.

Most compressors have an on/off switch located on the unit itself.

 

[rawen2]

Assuming that the switch in your picture is controlling 120VAC for the coil of the motor starter, here are some possibilities:

Amazon.com : smart toggle light switch

 

[Walkers]

Story is somewhat confusing.

Your compressor is required to have a disconnect within a line of sight of the machine. A switch that isn’t accessible doesn’t meet the spirit of that requirement.

Similarly, a breaker panel has to be accessible and there is a spec for clearance around it, including nothing below it. If you are code compliant you should have access.

Sure, he may have access, but like mine, you have to exit the shop and walk around to get to the sub. There is access and then there is convenient access.

 

[Trm303]

I’ve done what some are suggesting with a normal home light switch to the coil. My compressor is 3 phase and I run it off a RPC which both are located in a separate room. To ensure the RPC never starts with the pressure switch engaged, I wired in a the light switch in between the pressure switch and the coil and put both RPC switch and Compressor in a much more convenient spot

 

[CraigStu]

Would it be feasible to wire in another switch to a more accessible location? If so, you could use a contactor. Mount the contactor near the compressor so you can run the main power supply through the contactor. Then run a wire to control the contactor w/ your new switch location. In our last house the previous owner had a 50 yards away second driveway for his motorhome. He had a pole out there that provided 240V and 120V. I mounted motion sensor flood lights for walking our dog but they were always coming on on windy nights and when a larger vehicle went by. The 240V feed went along the ceiling of the unfinished part of the basement. I put a contactor in line and controlled it w/ a standard toggle wall switch. An advantage there was I used maybe 2 amps of 120V to control the 240V feed. That was easier than some type of in line 240V switch because all my extra wiring was regular 15A 120V stuff. BTW, if you are familiar w/ automotive relays, think of a contactor as a huge relay.

 

[infinkc]

Story is somewhat confusing.

Your compressor is required to have a disconnect within a line of sight of the machine. A switch that isn’t accessible doesn’t meet the spirit of that requirement.

Similarly, a breaker panel has to be accessible and there is a spec for clearance around it, including nothing below it. If you are code compliant you should have access.

Well it is accessible, but in a closet so I just don’t feel like opening it every time to turn it on and off. Rather have something remote so I can turn it on closer to my workbench.

 

[PoorUB]

Maybe something to consider, in my shop I ran wire from the ceiling lights to a relay at the compressor. Turn on the lights, the compressor turns on. I had to run wire from the closest light fixture to the compressor.

The biggest reason I did this was to ensure the compressor was off when I left the shop. I usually turn it off, but sometimes forgot. One time I came home after a couple day trip and a rather large leak developed in a air hose that was connected. The compressor was smoking it was so hot.

 

[fuggle]

I use one of these for my dust collector. Works great. Can handle 15A.

Amazon.com

 

[NakeDiesel]

I wired a light switch inline with the switch on the compressor, both have to be on for it to run. Compressor is in a decent sized room with my air dryer and shelves for all my painting, cf components and other items. The switch for turning on the compressor is outside the room along with a second switch that turns on an outlet in the room for powering on my air dryer and the automatic drain for the compressor. I'm currently putting a circulation system for outside air into the room with a 4" vent fan to push air out at the top of the room and a 4" inlet down low.

 

[eastbaysubaru]

TP-Link Kasa plugs

I've been using these for my compressor as well as a number of other items around the house for a few years now. Zero problems, exceptionally reliable and easy to setup. They can be turned on via TP-Link's Kasa app but they can also be programmed to a specific schedule through the app as well. They make wall switches that work just as well too. I've used one of the switches for my exterior lights for years and it's great. No more manually adjusting it for DST as it can be programmed to turn on at sunset and turned off at a specific time.

-Brian

 

[dwall174]

Maybe something to consider, in my shop I ran wire from the ceiling lights to a relay at the compressor. Turn on the lights, the compressor turns on.

I did basically the same thing to my compressor!

In my case I was running a new 240V line to the compressor anyways & the magnetic starter I used has a 120V coil.
I just added a DPDT switch to my main light switch (next to the garage door) That switch now also controls the coil on the compressor's starter.



Doug

 

[mikedodge]

I did basically the same thing to my compressor!

In my case I was running a new 240V line to the compressor anyways & the magnetic starter I used has a 120V coil.
I just added a DPDT switch to my main light switch (next to the garage door) That switch now also controls the coil on the compressor's starter.



Doug

That's the best solution to do it. If you can intercept the 240v wiring before the starter you already have you could put a disconnect or motor rated switch on that somewhere more accessible. As long as your starter doesn't need to be manually reset if it looses power like that. That's what I did for mine.

 

[Relax]

TP-Link Kasa plugs

I've been using these for my compressor as well as a number of other items around the house for a few years now. Zero problems, exceptionally reliable and easy to setup. They can be turned on via TP-Link's Kasa app but they can also be programmed to a specific schedule through the app as well. They make wall switches that work just as well too. I've used one of the switches for my exterior lights for years and it's great. No more manually adjusting it for DST as it can be programmed to turn on at sunset and turned off at a specific time.

-Brian

How many amps is your compressor?

 

[Renegade1LI]

I used one of these form my dust collector, rated 30 amp 240 might work for your compressor pus it's rf.

Amazon.com

 

[ddawg16]

I planned ahead when I did my garage. The compressor is in a shed behind the garage.
Inside the garage I have a lighted light switch rated for 240 Vac.

The 240 Vac breaker also feeds my 240 Vac outlet for my plasma cutter/Mig welder (that I plan to buy soon)

When I don't want the compressor to run...I just turn off the switch

 

[Lucid Moments]

I want to add a solenoid valve to mine coming immediately out of the compressor. Shuts off the air so that the small air leaks in my distribution won't matter.

 

[larry4406]

I want to add a solenoid valve to mine coming immediately out of the compressor. Shuts off the air so that the small air leaks in my distribution won't matter.

RapidAir sells a soft open/close valve for this purpose.

 

[dfiler2]

Here is a remote relay that can handle up to 40 amps that might work.

Amazon.com

 

[infinkc]

Here is a remote relay that can handle up to 40 amps that might work.

Amazon.com

Just order this one to give it a try, thanks!

 

[PoorUB]

Here is a remote relay that can handle up to 40 amps that might work.

Amazon.com

That relay is only good for 1/2HP on 240 volt. It won't run motor amps!

It will work fine for the control side of the contactor.