Adding a shed to a existing shop

[craigibc]

I am planning on adding a 14x20ft shed to the back of an existing shop. I want to move all my sheet metal and fabricating tools into this new room. I was going to just put concrete on the floor but I am getting quotes excess of 4k. I just don't have the cash right now to spend that much on the floor.

The big issue is I have a 10ft sheet metal brake and that sucker is heavy looking online that brake can weigh 3000lbs. Can I just put a wooden floor in to support the weight?

Maybe I could build a form and concrete the area where the brake is going to sit and then plywood the rest of the building?

Looking for budget ideas to make this happen....


Craig

 

[readhead]

Are you buying a shed or building a shed?

 

[The Cobbler]

maybe put the brake on wood base sufficient to hold the weight and stone the rest. use compacted fines on the top for a smoother finish . when you have the money do the concrete

 

[craigibc]

I am building it off the back of the existing shop.

 

[NUTTSGT]

$4K for 3 1/2 yards ? Is this just a pour/finish or are they doing more ?

Do you have any friends that do concrete work ? Maybe find a concrete contractor that has a couple of employees that do Saturday side work. Stop by the local concrete plant and ask if they know anybody the does small side/cash jobs.

I will admit, the 3.5 yards is for 4" thick, going to 6" thick brings it up to just over 5 yards.

 

[finn]

That’s actually a pretty good deal, based on the 8’x14’ slab I just had poured. I think it was $2800 for a 4” thick slab with a drain and sleeve for pex.

 

[CraigStu]

I am thinking build your own form. If it would suit to have the brake along the 14ft wall, I'd do a 6x14 pad for it. That should cut the concrete cost by a bunch. You are building walls anyway and I assume some 4x4 posts so it is pretty easy to put some 2x6s on edge inside the wall to make your form. And one 14footer additionally supported w/ some rebar pounded in along it's length so the weight of the concrete doesn't bow it out. Get your framing and form done but leave the siding off until after the concrete is poured. You could do gravel and then a plywood floor but w/ the weight, one section of the floor is going to need to be extra stout. I think long term having the concrete under the brake will be worth it.

 

[loganb]

I'm assuming this is a box and pan/finger brake and not a press brake as a 10' press brake is going to be way over 3k lbs

Assuming that, dirt or compacted stone floor over dirt will be fine. Will it be as nice as concrete or as easy to move things around....no but as long as you're managing moisture/humidity in the space it'll be fine.

I'd get some scrap 1/2" or thicker steel plate from a scrap yard to put under the legs/feet to spread out the weight and give a better way to level it out. Assuming it sets on a 2' x 4' steel plate on each end, that spreads the weight of a 3k pound machine out to under 200 lbs per sq ft....not a big deal. A well compacted base is primarily needed to manage settling and minimize movement once it's in. Be your choice if you wanted to drop down any rigid insulation and OSB/Plywood over the top of the dirt/rock to make it a bit cleaner and easier/warmer to walk on.

Assuming it gets a poured or block foundation, down the road if you were ready for concrete you just get it empty, do any subgrade prep and then the existing foundation becomes your form so it's an easy add down the road as long as you plan appropriately today for where finished concrete would be, where "floor for now is", transitions at doorways etc.