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Adding an interior wall

Gfercaks33

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Joined
Apr 5, 2015
Messages
81
Location
Oklahoma City
Quick question guys. I am tasked to replace an accordion wall with a normal stud wall. It's a non load bearing wall that the joists run parallel to the placement of the wall. The few questions I have are this.

1) if there is not a current joist above the acordian wall how will I secure the top plate?

2) will I need to remove the dry wall before adding the top plate and the sides?

3) should I double up the studs on the sides?

This is a 12' wall that will be walling in two rooms (my house is laid out as a three bedroom so I am not adding an additional room) I also went to Votech for construction trades so I feel I can do this simple task minus the few questions.

Thank you in advanced.
 
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Bondo

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Dec 22, 2007
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2,549
Location
Greenfield, Maine
Ayuh,.... If there's nothin' at the top, bridge 'tween the 2 closest to yer point, 'n mount the top plate to the bridges,...

Double which studs where,..??
It's non-load bearin',.... it's just gotta hold up the drywall,...
 
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Gfercaks33

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Apr 5, 2015
Messages
81
Location
Oklahoma City
Dang I didn't want to. Get into the attic do bridge them. And the doubling up would be on the two sides (ends of wall)
 

mark11

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Jul 8, 2013
Messages
135
No need to double as long as you can screw the drywall to the end studs. You do need to head into the attic though.
 
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Gfercaks33

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Apr 5, 2015
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81
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Oklahoma City
Good news I think there is a joist up there, took some of the screws from the rail on the wall out and ran a 4" deck screw in there and it appears to have wood shavings on it and I had to put some muscle into screwing it in instead of it stripping out like it would in drywall.
 
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Gfercaks33

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Apr 5, 2015
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Location
Oklahoma City
Honestly I didn't want to mess with the ceiling drywall, that's what I asked if it would be OK to mount the top plate on the drywall
 

Kevin54

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Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
I've added walls in both my house garage and in the detached garage three times, and I mounted the top plate over the drywall and used 3" deck screws to screw it to the rafters. Then I built the wall snug between the top and bottom plate. I have never had a crack from movement. If you don't have a rafter to fasten to, you can also use a series of toggle bolts, and build the wall snug. All you want to do is to keep the top of the wall from shifting back and forth. And by building it snug, it would basically stay there on it's own, but the toggle bolts will help to minimize any shifting.
 
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