Adding block course to existing garage

[kissimmee06]

Bought a 69' bronco so need space to restore it... Going to be doubling the size the of my 16wx24' detached garage here in the future. Currently its a older block (guess is 70's) concrete floor garage. The plan is to mirror it on the other side to make it a two car garage (Ill cut the two windows I have to make two doorways between new/old garage. One debate is block versus steel studs. Either way I will be taking roof completely off and changing the orientation (solar reasons, truss length reasons).

Everyone I can find adding a block course is doing it at the bottom because they have wood framed garages. Anyone add course to the top of existing block? What is needed? epoxy rebar every couple feet and stack and fill? Wall height is 7' currently and 2-3 8'' courses would be ideal. Top course seems to be poured all the way around. Corners are filled as well. Also when tying in walls to a existing building what is the preferred method? I've see 3''x 3'' angle on the inside in commercial applications... I do commercial metal framing so I be gentle masons. I spend my time building after you leave.

Option 2 is to frame the height I need on top however I would like to stick to all block on both buildings so i can simply paint it when done (matches house) and either stucco/ siding house and garage later



Hopefully I settle on a few more things such as a porch, lift, solar, and fencing. Submit some drawings and fingers crossed starting soon.

 

[rslaback]

I hate to be the typical garage journalist second guessing your decisions but if I were you I would consider either wood framing that out with a bunch of high windows or laying your new courses as milkhouse glass block to get some light into that space. It seems like it would be awful dark and dingy inside as is.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

I saw a similar scenario done several years ago. Due to the age of the building’s roof, it was just torn off and a new one was added.

The original walls were probably 7’ also, they added 3courses to the existing- the exact matter it was done-??? The new roof was a scissor truss, giving the interior a vaulted ceiling.

Perhaps all you need is scissor trusses and you can leave the existing walls be(?).

 

[acer66]

I would make sure that you do not run into any code issues with whatever you decide to do since you are very close to the property border or height wise.

I would jack the garage up and either add more rows of cinder blocks as needed or sister up the existing studs with new studs continuous from sill to top plate.

 

[FredWanaker]

seeing those poles next to and wires overhead, if you are planning this on the left side facing the photo, I'd be checking my title for easements. If the utility company has an easement over that side of the yard that is 12' to 15' wide, they won't allow it, nor will the county. Nor will the next lender when you go to sell it.

 

[u2slow]

seeing those poles next to and wires overhead, if you are planning this on the left side facing the photo, I'd be checking my title for easements. If the utility company has an easement over that side of the yard that is 12' to 15' wide, they won't allow it, nor will the county. Nor will the next lender when you go to sell it.

Sometimes you don't want to officially check... for the attention it receives. Best to do your own homework and decide how to proceed.

POCO easements are usually not a thing for your own low-voltage service drop. Roof clearances should be obeyed... unless pre-existing.

Bylaws are another matter. If you don't have the required minimum side-lot setback, you may not be given permission to expand/raise a non-compliant structure. I know from buying and selling real-estate in my region that disclosure of such is required for sale, but the sale usually happens regardless. In general, buyers are happier there is a 'bonus' building instead of a torn-out space without one.

 

[Chris705]

Not sure exactly what your code official will want to see but preventing uplift of your roof system is important in FL. You describe a continuous bond beam as your current top course which is terrific. You can epoxy dowels into it it and lock your new courses of block to the existing. I would recommend 16 to 24” oc for the new dowels. You can also use vertical dowels to tie the new walls to the old…. You may still get movement between the old and new and a crack could develop but your lateral reinforcement would be there if you epoxy the dowels int the existing wall corner and as you lay the new walls up grout the cores solid where new wall meets existing. You will also have both horizontal and vertical reinforcement in the new walls……. And. As with any building it all begins with the footings, best success on your addition! Post some photos of the progress.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You have block walls on the original garage and you're going to add on.

I'd put in a block foundation for the addition, tying it to the original structure. Then I would stick build to correct height. Tear off the roof and build a short wall atop the block to match the new stick build. Double top plate and hang new trusses.

 

[rayra]

if you are doubling the footprint and rotating the roof, you'll need some steel across the garage doors side as it becomes the bearing wall for your new roof trusses. And you'll want to check the height of that steel, the drop of your eaves and all that before you settle on how much height / courses you are adding to the old walls (and matching with the new.
AND since the old side wall you talk about penetrating with doorways will no longer be supporting an eave edge of the roof - or even its ridgeline - there's no reason to keep it as an interior wall.

Was not stated or pictured in the OP, but I presume that is a detached garage with some sort of breezeway? If you intend to connect the modified structure to the house there will be a bunch of additional code restrictions related to an attached garage, mostly to do with fireproofing.

 

[u2slow]

FWIW, breezeways can be a funny one... depends on the jursiduction's criteria for attached/detached.

 

[nadogail]

If I were having to deal with your dilemma I would ask a building professional, local to you for an opinion.

 

[kissimmee06]

Ill try to address this more. Thank you Chris for the info. I will look into this for sure. Not too worried about cracks as long as there are more aesthetic cracks not structural. I will be adding rigid foam around the entire inside and using "Z" clips to attach drywall. Not looking to build cheap, but at the end of the day its just a garage. I just want a solid structure to move into quick and can easily upgrade overtime as I get time.

Ill will start a thread I guess in the "show off your garage" section soon as I get a little head start so I dont drag anyone along who might be interested

- picture seems to be a optical illusion power lines are no where near building site.
- zoning dept. has blessed everything with a recent lot survey
- My city allows me to go up to the height of my house which is about 10 ft taller then what I have drawn up.
- yes currently there is a mickey mouse breeze way to the house which will come down before up coming hurricane season as its ugly and a problem waiting to happen.
- picture doesn't show but there are windows. I do like high windows for security and still getting light but I think keeping a couple down low will match everything better.
- foundation are everything I agree. monolithic slab with footings being probably twice code. I might even go 6'' slab all the way (drooling over Maxjacks)
- This garage will be the last house to go in a hurricane event that I can assure everyone. Trusses will be connected to walls, trusses every 16'' built with 12 gauge, 6'', 3.5'' leg rough drawn with engineer just need finalize with horse trade for stamp. New addition if I go block will be poured solid. Along with 3/4 plywood on roof, 6'' flat strapping, CRC channel between everything @ 4' OC
- sorry to the wood guys but metal studs to me are free if I am patient or a cost that wood doesn't make sense.
- scissor trusses are happening as I am looking for 10'-11' interior but ultimately I still need taller walls for doors (current garage door is 6.5' which is 2'' shorter then my shortest vehicle.

Don't poke fun at my lack of 3d abilities. I live in a 2d prints world but was curious to try sketch up.

 

[ddurrett896]

Doubling the size, I'd demo it and rebuild.

 

[acer66]

Doubling the size, I'd demo it and rebuild.

Yeah but he has to consider set back etc. rules if he does that.

I was in a similar situation where I could remodel a garage, put a second story it etc. but if I had demo it I would have to move the new one further away from the property line because the newer and different setback rules apply to new construction.

If that is the case with your project OP I would find out how much can do to the old structure so it is still considered a remodel and go from there.

 

[Michigan Mike]

Preferred method to tie old to new masonary would be to tooth out existing corners and tie new in that way. If the cores of the block are filled with concrete that method will be a royal *****. If the corners are filled I would epoxy in rerod. You said you do commercial metal stud work? If that is the case some of your jobs should have masonary contractors on site at times. Sit down with them for lunch or buy them a beer after work and pick their brains. What I see done here in Michigan may not be what is normal or code in Florida.

 

[ddurrett896]

Yeah but he has to consider set back etc. rules if he does that.

I was in a similar situation where I could remodel a garage, put a second story it etc. but if I had demo it I would have to move the new one further away from the property line because the newer and different setback rules apply to new construction.

If that is the case with your project OP I would find out how much can do to the old structure so it is still considered a remodel and go from there.

If that’s the case, then I’d demo the roof, pour a foundation for the addition and tie Into the existing foundation, build walls and new trusses for the entire thing.

That’s considered a remodel where I live.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

No idea but can you post pics of the Bronco?

 

[kissimmee06]

First thought was demo as well. Correct with the set back rules as well as >5k$ to demo (tree in way on my access lane that city wont touch so demo would be hauling with one skid steer bucket at a time 75 yards away. Not to mention washer and dryer are in there, so plumbing, electrical to put back. Keeping the building addresses some costs as well as setbacks and inspections. More money to dump into my 69" rust bucket. Wanted one since before i could drive. Back then Early broncos were 2-3K running and driving but I didn't have that kind of coin. Fast forward 15 years and they are 5 times that in way worse shape. Such is life though. This one will go back to Full top, Stay un cut and mostly stock except for a small lift, EFI, PS, AC