Adding bookshelf girts to 24x40 pole building

[PDXCummins]

Last year I had a 24x40 pole barn built on my property about 30 miles west of Portland, OR. It was the first pole barn I have had built and the builder did not present the option of bookshelf girts at the time it was constructed. When I decided to start finishing the interior I chose to add the bookshelf girts myself in order to insulate the building and cover the walls in OSB. I don’t plan on insulating the ceiling for a while and would like to to l leave the trusses exposed.
My question is whether I add the bookshelf girts to the highest girt or stop at the base of the trusses? First time taking on a project like this so all the help is appreciated.

Drew

 

[Joe_K]

I'd probably add one more to hold the top insulation batt.

 

[tracy.reich]

If your intentions are to apply OSB you will need to go as high as your OSB to enable you to attach the OSB at the top. The ultimate deciding factor will be where you plan on having your ceiling height, as this should be where your OSB should run to.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If your intentions are to apply OSB you will need to go as high as your OSB to enable you to attach the OSB at the top. The ultimate deciding factor will be where you plan on having your ceiling height, as this should be where your OSB should run to.

Yep, you need a place to attach insulation and wall covering at the top.


Since this is your first time doing a project like this, you did place your girts 16 or 24" O.C. ?

 

[PDXCummins]

Yes I did put them 24 OC as that’s where the existing girts were already located. I would like to just insulate the eaves of the ceiling and leave the trusses open if possible because it allows me more room to maunever oversized items.

 

[MagKarl]

I would suggest you cut and install blocking between them instead of toe nailing, easier and more secure.

 

[Joe_K]

Yes I did put them 24 OC as that’s where the existing girts were already located. I would like to just insulate the eaves of the ceiling and leave the trusses open if possible because it allows me more room to maunever oversized items.

How is your roof vented?

 

[PDXCummins]

I attached them using two pocket hole screws at each end and about a dozen along the length of the board. They are rock solid and don’t budge at all. As far as venting goes on the ceiling I’m not sure there is any at all. I’ll take a closer look and post a picture of the ceiling.

 

[mike93lx]

I attached them using two pocket hole screws at each end and about a dozen along the length of the board. They are rock solid and don’t budge at all. As far as venting goes on the ceiling I’m not sure there is any at all. I’ll take a closer look and post a picture of the ceiling.

Pocket screws? Can't imagine how long that took. Probably time to think about a framing nailer.

 

[Marctrees]

Only thing here w the framing nailer... toenailing and inherent different slippages that can happen w that.... and possible punch through or at least dimple steel sheeting.

Pocket screws definitely take longer, but no risk to the steel.

Marc

 

[mike93lx]

Only thing here w the framing nailer... toenailing and inherent different slippages that can happen w that.... and possible punch through or at least dimple steel sheeting.

Pocket screws definitely take longer, but no risk to the steel.

Marc

They aren't holding weight. Why can't you just toenail to the posts and move on? They don't nees to be so ridgid.

 

[PDXCummins]

It really didn’t take that long to drill the pocket holes and the strength achieved was worth the time and effort in my opinion.

 

[tapout187]

I’m also running bookshelf girts in my barn. Putting them 24 OC, doing it by myself, I did like Magkarl said and put blocking (like 22 1/2 long pieces) between them. I like the book shelf girts as well for putting in insulation bats and attaching OSB to eventually and also figured it’ll be nice to run the wiring on as well. But yea I would find where your eventual ceiling height would be and add another girt there at the top of your walls for the top nailer.

 

[PDXCummins]

I agree. I briefly considered traditional framing in between the posts but adding the book shelf girts is cheaper and considerably less work.