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Adding Breakers to Main Panel

swimrr

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Is it common to have to cut into the drywall when adding new circuit breakers to a flush mounted main panel. I don't see how to feed the new new cable coming into the panel without cutting the drywall to see where all the existing cables run. Maybe I'm missing something, so I figured I'd draw on all the amazing GJ wisdom.

Thanks in advance!
 
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pattenp

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It's not uncommon to have to remove drywall to get wiring into the panel when flush mounted. It just depends on the situation.
 

Jbullfrog

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That is why most surface mount the panel in their shop, so they can make changes.

Where is your panel located? You can remove the panel cover and hope the drywall isn't tight to the box itself and see where the wires run.
 
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swimrr

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It's not uncommon to have to remove drywall to get wiring into the panel when flush mounted. It just depends on the situation.

I was hoping that was the case as I can't see any better way to work with the panel.

Where is your panel located? You can remove the panel cover and hope the drywall isn't tight to the box itself and see where the wires run.

The panel is in my garage and the drywall goes right to the box edge on both sides and the top, with a 1 inch space at the bottom. All the wires go out the sides and main power in the top. I think I have to remove drywall on both sides to figure out where all the wires go so I can try to figure out where to run the new cable. And with main power at the top, I want to make extra sure I don't go anywhere near them while trying to get the new cable up to the attic. The box is situated on the rear wall of the garage which is about 3/4 of the way into the structure, so I'm trying to figure out where all the wires run to power the house.
 

fasteddie

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If you're running new wire through the walls, it's pretty much a given that you'll be opening some holes not just at the panel but in places along the entire path.
 
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swimrr

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Well, that's a relief. I was spending way too much time figuring out how to do it without cutting any drywall, but if opening some holes is common practice that makes me feel much better.
 

Evan(CA)

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Depends on the pitch of the roof and if you can drill from the attic. If you can't your only option is to take out two small squares at the ceiling joint to drill through the top block. If you run into a fire block I use a hand size hold saw to open the wall and drill it and screw the hole saw piece right back, I do the same at the top. Slap some mud on sand and paint.
 
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swimrr

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Thank-you. The pitch is pretty tight at the wall where I want to run the cable down. I'll have a better look on the next attic visit, but I don't think I can drill there.

If you can't your only option is to take out two small squares at the ceiling joint to drill through the top block.

Would you mind elaborating on this? Do you mean from inside the house? (sorry, my building vocabulary is weak).
 
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swimrr

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What is it you are trying to add?

20A breaker and cable to wire a new socket for an electric fireplace insert.

Is the attic directly above the garage or is there a room in between?

There is a room in between. My plan was to (hopefully) go directly up from the panel, into the attic, then over to the outside wall where our fireplace is. There is an electric baseboard heater and thermostat on the wall directly above the panel so I'm hoping I can follow that cable path.
 
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swimrr

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When cutting an access whole next to the panel, any recommendations for size? I'm thinking I'll install a blank access panel for ease of future access, although, based on the load calculation I did, I think adding this 20A cable is going to bring me close to maxing out my 100A main breaker (125A box).
 
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Jim greengo

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If you can get access to attic area directly above panel I'd see what the biggest knockout is in top of panel.
Then I'd drill hole through top plate and run a piece of PVC pipe with a fitting on it to connect to panel,then run it just above top plate into attic.
That way you have a way of adding wires in future if need be without cutting up more drywall.
 
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swimrr

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If you can get access to attic area directly above panel I'd see what the biggest knockout is in top of panel.
Then I'd drill hole through top plate and run a piece of PVC pipe with a fitting on it to connect to panel,then run it just above top plate into attic.
That way you have a way of adding wires in future if need be without cutting up more drywall.

There is a top plate that looks like it is right above the panel, but I need to figure out a way of confirming this location. There is PVC pipe already going through the top plate that was for a now-eliminated central vac that runs through the wall to just above the 2nd floor. From there it can't be more than 6 feet to the panel in the garage (if it is where I think it is).

My concern with going through the top of the panel is that is where the service power enters the panel. As a rookie I'd really like to go nowhere near the top for that reason. All the outgoing cables run out the sides of the panel (to somewhere).
 
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Marctrees

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swmmr - I am sure you have plenty of skills.

None of us know everything.

It is quite apparent EVERYTHING about this is totally foreign to you.

I would suggest getting a Res electrician that has remodel or "Old Work" experience.

Marc
 

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
In the laundry room of my home I cut an access hole from stud to stud, and from the top of the panel to the ceiling to access the panel.

After the work was done I covered the hole with a metal clad fiberglass cover plate. In 18 years the cover plate has been opened up about 6 times, as new wiring modifications were made.
 

Marctrees

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When cutting an access whole next to the panel, any recommendations for size? I'm thinking I'll install a blank access panel for ease of future access, although, based on the load calculation I did, I think adding this 20A cable is going to bring me close to maxing out my 100A main breaker (125A box).

All panels in a normal residential use often have breakers that add up to WAY more than the Main..

Do NOT worry about that, totally normal.

Marc
 

Marctrees

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"Thank-you. The pitch is pretty tight at the wall where I want to run the cable down. I'll have a better look on the next attic visit, but I don't think I can drill there. "

In your situation, forget about drilling the top plate.

Instead, notch a path for the romex in the sheetrock at the double top plate height, and any ceiling nailer if present, , and cover PROPERLY with Nail Plates., then mud over that.

The work above is done from inside the room....

NO need to try to get to the top of that wall in the attic,..

Just insert fishtape into attic from inside the room.

Google "wire Nail plates old work" for details on installing them.

Marc
 
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