Adding circuit for a mini split: Two options from electrician in an attached garage

[XS29L9B]

When first discussed, I was just going to have a 220v dedicated circuit pulled for a mini split w/. a disconnect at a box mounted outside. That's pretty much still the plan, but then the electrician asked about bringing a 100A sub panel to the garage and then, when ready for the mini split, just pull from there. The plan was also to have a 220v pull from the main panel for a compressor, etc., just to have a 220v outlet in the garage.


So those are my two choices.

On one hand, I think I only need the dedicated run to the disconnect box for the mini split.

On the other hand, the 100A sub panel allows for any further/future expansion.

What are the pros/cons? I am sure the sub panel will be at least 2x the cost. At least.............

Thanks for any input.

 

[American Locomotive]

I would say it would probably make sense for a 30 or 40A sub in the garage if you plan a compressor in the future. Square D makes a cute lil 6 slot QO panel. A 100A sub is way overkill.

 

[Jakemedic]

Get a quote for both, then you can make an educated decision. If you are just building out your garage, it may be nice to get a 100 amp sub panel so you don’t have to use up all your opening in your main box. I did 100 amp into my shop, which was a new build. Since finishing it, I had to pull a 30 amp circuit for my surface planer. Nice not going back to the basement to pull a circuit. It’s your money, but look towards the future too.

 

[Dig Doug]

Your biggest expense will be the wire feeding the sub panel !

you can go
100 amp
50 amp 30/40 amp

100 amp panel is $110 from Depot !

so what ever look at wire costs how many feet of cable do you need?

I would go a minimum 50 amp! You might add more stuff down the road, welder, grinders, table saw ceiling fans, TV ….

my electrical problem is is breaker space!! I’m out of spaces….
you can use the panel below and feed it with 40/ 50 amps and you’ll have plenty of breaker space.

I wouldn’t say the labor is the same for pulling a 50 amp feeder to a sub panel than a couple of 220 circuits …. But I’d rather pay once and be done than be limited in the future…..

 

[captain14]

Look at it another way. If the circuit trips, do you want to walk over to the panel to reset it or go into the basement and reset the breaker?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Subpanel is almost always the way to go because the branch circuit runs will be shorter and thus save you money in the long run...

Where is your main located? Didnt see you mention that...

 

[tfi racing]

Pay now, or even pay a lot more later. You will need to provide some more information to get any realistic answers that can actually help with your decision making.

 

[exranger06]

The main panel in my house is in the finished basement, flush mounted with drywall all around it. Adding circuits to it is a major pain. That's why I installed a subpanel in my attached garage. I had to run only one circuit from the main panel (which indeed was a pain), but now I never have to mess with the main panel again. I installed several new circuits from the subpanel, and if I need to add more circuits, the subpanel is right there, easy to access, and easy to make changes/add stuff.

 

[dcg9381]

The plan was also to have a 220v pull from the main panel for a compressor, etc., just to have a 220v outlet in the garage.


So those are my two choices.

On one hand, I think I only need the dedicated run to the disconnect box for the mini split.

On the other hand, the 100A sub panel allows for any further/future expansion.

What are the pros/cons? I am sure the sub panel will be at least 2x the cost. At least.............

Thanks for any input.

You need more than one circuit to that garage, I'm going with sub-panel too. 60A copper or 90A aluminum would be my go-tos for feeds.
I actually use an outside rated sub panel for our main HVAC disconnects. It provides the required 120V "service outlet". That particular panel costs around $240 right now. Sits between the two units on the wall.

 

[dscheidt]

I would say it would probably make sense for a 30 or 40A sub in the garage if you plan a compressor in the future. Square D makes a cute lil 6 slot QO panel. A 100A sub is way overkill.

Anyone who installs a 30A subpanel in a garage these days is seriously out of touch with what the future demands will be, or is planning on getting the job of replacing it when a car charger is installed. The cost difference between a 30A six-space panel and a 20 space 100A panel is very little more than the difference in wire cost. 100A 20ish space panels are cheap, because they sell lots of them. six space panels are not usual, and are surprisingly expensive.

 

[starquestMM]

go big.

There is a tax credit for this right now i think. IRS form 8911 and its instructions don't mention actually buying an electric vehicle...

 

[XS29L9B]

Look at it another way. If the circuit trips, do you want to walk over to the panel to reset it or go into the basement and reset the breaker?

Really good point!!!

 

[XS29L9B]

go big.

There is a tax credit for this right now i think. IRS form 8911 and its instructions don't mention actually buying an electric vehicle...

Oh boy, this is awesome!!!!!!!

About Form 8911, Alternative Fuel Vehicle Refueling Property Credit | Internal Revenue Service

Form 8911 is used to figure a credit for an alternative fuel vehicle refueling property placed in service during the tax year. The credit attributable to depreciable property (refueling property used for business or investment purposes) is treated as a general business credit. Use this form to...

www.irs.gov

 

[XS29L9B]

Pay now, or even pay a lot more later. You will need to provide some more information to get any realistic answers that can actually help with your decision making.

What other info might be useful?

Garage is 56x36

I am putting 24 can lamps in the vaulted ceiling to illuminate, then a bunch of outlets. Maybe 18 of them.

In the future, I want to add a Mr. Cool Mini Split 36,000 unit.

Also, adding 220 outlet for EV

 

[Norcal]

What other info might be useful?

Garage is 56x36

I am putting 24 can lamps in the vaulted ceiling to illuminate, then a bunch of outlets. Maybe 18 of them.

In the future, I want to add a Mr. Cool Mini Split 36,000 unit.

Also, adding 220 outlet for EV

Recessed cans are a poor way of illuminating a space.

 

[American Locomotive]

Recessed cans are a poor way of illuminating a space.

...unless you're going for a certain aesthetic.

 

[Norcal]

...unless you're going for a certain aesthetic.

With a interior decorator.

 

[XS29L9B]

The can lamps are a clean look compared to shop lighting I've seen.
But if ya got some other ideas, post up pics. Sway my mind. Thanks

 

[dscheidt]

The can lamps are a clean look compared to shop lighting I've seen.
But if ya got some other ideas, post up pics. Sway my mind. Thanks

the problem with cans is they're a spot light. They cast light in a cone, with an angle depending on what the emitter in the can is, and illuminate a spot on ground. if the spots from the cans don't overlap, you have areas that are not directly illiuminated, and will be in shadows. Increasing the brightness of the emitter won't fix that, it creates glare. Note that the overlap needs to be at the plane you care about. For general illumination, that's the floor, more or less. For working on a car or a workbench, that's rather higher up, which means smaller spots. If you don't have high ceilings, you end up needing huge numbers of cans, which is expensive and ugly, and you'll want to dim them, which adds to cost. They work great for accent lighting or lighting a bench or something like that.

 

[Zeke]

If you walk into a new Target it is well lit but you don't look into the lights unless you look more or less straight up. Baffles are used to keep light out of your eyes. It takes a lot of can lights to illuminate a space, but done right with task lighting it's really nice.

I have 2 lighting systems in my small garage. One for show and one for go.

 

[Metal-Marc]

Go big. It will also help with the resale value down the line.

 

[XS29L9B]

the problem with cans is they're a spot light. They cast light in a cone, with an angle depending on what the emitter in the can is, and illuminate a spot on ground. if the spots from the cans don't overlap, you have areas that are not directly illiuminated, and will be in shadows. Increasing the brightness of the emitter won't fix that, it creates glare. Note that the overlap needs to be at the plane you care about. For general illumination, that's the floor, more or less. For working on a car or a workbench, that's rather higher up, which means smaller spots. If you don't have high ceilings, you end up needing huge numbers of cans, which is expensive and ugly, and you'll want to dim them, which adds to cost. They work great for accent lighting or lighting a bench or something like that.

In the 56 x 36 space, I will have 24 cans.

The ceiling, in the lowest point, is 11' and vaulted, to a peak of 18'

I planned to "drop" the bulbs as low in the fixtures as possible, that way the bulbs are nearly flush, or just proud to the surface to allow more light to cast outward a bit.

Being flush on an angled ceiling, the lights will spread a bit, too. I think

 

[dave*99]

I’m using Lithonia CPANL 2x4 LED panels. 6000lm 0-10v dimming. I wanted good light and reasonable aesthetics.
I ruled out can lights. Poor lighting in a shop. But they look nice.