Adding drain to main 4" Sewer Run

[k-os]

I have a 4" PVC main sewer run in my basement that runs along two walls approximately 22" above the floor and over to the sewer hookup to the city. I'm working on building a brewing area in the basement and would like to add a sink to use for cleaning and draining. There is already some water lines ran to where I would like to place the sink (must have been from an old washer).

My thought was to use a 4" x 2" Wye along with some short sections of 4" PVC pipe and shielded rubber couplings on each end. I would prefer to do this all in rigid PVC with slip couplings but am not that confident in being able to get both sides of the slip coupling to seal up well. I don't think I'll have much flex on either end of the sections to use standard PVC couplers.

There's quite a few options available from Menard's (want to pick this stuff up during the 11% sale) for shielded couplings. Anyone have a suggestion on what type I would need from the ones listed below?

Fernco 4" Cast Iron/Plastic Shielded Coupling

Fernco 4" Cast Iron x 4" Plastic/Steel/Extra Heavy Cast Iron Proflex Coupling

Fernco 4" Cast Iron No Hub Coupling - I believe these are only meant for Cast Iron and wouldn't pass an inspection.

The other option I saw was the Saddle Tees however I'm not sure if this would be acceptable for this use.

I can get some pictures taken a little later tonight when I get home from work.

Thank you.

 

[rlitman]

So you want to cut into the 4" cast iron and tee in some PVC? You're right in that that tee is NG. You need a Wye. Maybe a cast iron to PVC saddle wye would save you some couplings and work. I'm not sure what people will say about that, but in any case you still need to consider the venting too.

My first question would be if you have standard or extra heavy cast iron. That changes the OD, and parts that fit XH CI can be hard to come by.

 

[Slowgsr]

Main sewer run is cast? Or pvc?

Cut out a 4ft section of the 4" where you want your wye. Install wye, slide your rubber coupler on the end of your 4" piece, flex it into your wye then tap it back onto your main drain and tighten the clamps. Use the style like the first one you posted. Don't forget your vent, needs to tie in above your highest level floors plumbing fixture flood level rim. This will be the hardest part.

Or use a cheater vent.

Edit. If the main is cast you'll need 2 rubber couplings on either end after you've got your new piece in and tap the couplings onto the cast from your pvc.

 

[59 wagon man]

to be legal and up to code you would need to check local laws . otherwise a 4 x 2 y and 2 rubber ferncos will work

 

[k-os]

Re: Adding drain to main 4" Sewer Run

Sorry I didn't specify in my first post (edited), my main sewer run is PVC.

Attached pictures of the sewer line.

 

[snyder]

Yes , a wye and two ferncos would be okay

 

[BD1]

You could get a glued or clamp on saddle. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQ7WVS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[RegeSullivan]

I would at least try squeezing the tee or wye in without the fernco. Pvc is pretty flexable and forgiving. Worst that would happen is you lose one fitting and then go ahead with your plan to use ferncos. I suspect it will be easier to cement the fitting in vs using ferncos and it would more professional.


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[HoosierMark]

Get a two four inch repair couplers and a 4x2 Y. Cut out the right size piece of pipe and install. The repair coupler does not have the center inside rib so it will slide up your main line. Simple and easy. You may need two short pieces of 4 inch on each side of the Y. Ferncos can catch debris I would stay away from them.

 

[firebirdparts]

that is what I would do, except the 4 by 2 wye is female, and thus you only need one repair coupler. Pretty easy job. It'll be wet, so the water running into the glue may be a problem.

 

[FANTM58]

Don’t forget the P-trap

 

[k-os]

Get a two four inch repair couplers and a 4x2 Y. Cut out the right size piece of pipe and install. The repair coupler does not have the center inside rib so it will slide up your main line. Simple and easy. You may need two short pieces of 4 inch on each side of the Y. Ferncos can catch debris I would stay away from them.

Thanks for the mention of "repair coupler"! I was searching "slip coupler" and not getting a lot of results. I was going to reference this page if I went the route of the cemented wye. Am I able to install the wye horizontally, perhaps with a slight angle upwards? This slight upward angle should help direct the sink drain from the p-trap towards the main. My main concern mounting it vertically is that my sink drain would probably end up quite high due to the main sewer drain being around 22" from the floor to center of pipe.

I think I'll most likely have to go with a Studor type vent mounted above the top of the sink basin.

 

[mires]

No need to add a vent. You're dumping right into a 4'' drain. Just cut in the wye on it's side and position it so the trap will hook up easily. Just use a 4 x 1.5'' wye. No need for 2". Unless you're having trouble finding the 4 x 1.5''. Then just use a bushing right in the hub of the 2''.

 

[flat350]

There is a proper adapter made to connect no hub to PVC it's a Charlotte #119,it's glued onto the PVC and then the NO HUB coupling is installed.Kind of like a male to female coupling but the male end has a small ridge designed for the NO HUB coupling.As long as the wye's branch is rolled up slightly above the main's center it will work fine.

 

[zak77]

This may be a foolish question but where did the washer drain to before? And what's the white pipe plugged with the black thing sticking out of the floor?

 

[59 wagon man]

why would you recommend a saddle tee. #1 they are illegal in most codes and a tee whether it is a saddle tee or sanitary tee should not be used on a horizontal line and has no direction of flow but would rather just hit the bottom of the pipe and splatter in both directions
using a fernco is basically the same as a repair coupling as chances are you will never slide the 4" from both ends to **** up together. you probably have a better chance at a tight gap with the fernco as if the cuts are square you might only need 1/32 of an inch to drop the wye into place
I understand people want to be helpful but I wont tell you how to wire an outlet because i'm not an electrician even though I am a licensed master plumber and can do and have done it and seen it done thousands of times especially it we dont live in the same city ,town county , or state and what is legal here may not be legal there.

 

[k-os]

This may be a foolish question but where did the washer drain to before? And what's the white pipe plugged with the black thing sticking out of the floor?

There's a drain pipe (with p-trap) to the right of the pictures I posted that has my water softener drain running to it. I'm assuming this is where the washer was draining to. I think the pipe coming out of the floor is a drain cleanout?

I ended up picking up a 4x4x2 long turn Wye, repair coupling, section of 4" PVC pipe, 2" to 1.5" bushing, and two fernco's in case I can't get the Wye installed with the repair coupling. I may try to get this installed this weekend so it's ready for when I find the appropriate sink.

 

[k-os]

Thought I'd post an update for those interested. Got the sink installed (just one last panel of corrugated metal to put up). Decided to mount it on the West wall in the basement as the drain run was a little lower there. Made the mistake of assuming I would need to use the repair couplers and cemented a piece of 4" pipe into the wye immediately. After cutting the drain I found that it had enough flex that I could have just cut out the section I needed and cemented the wye in-line with the current pipe.