Adding electrical system to cargo trailer

[AJE]

Greetings, I'm trying to figure out the right way to do this.

I have a brand new cargo trailer that I'm outfitting for my wife's business, in which we will be using it as a mobile store. The trailer has a deep cycle battery already installed to power the jack, a canopy, and a few LED light fixtures. It does NOT have a charger.

I am in the process of gathering materials to add an inlet through a wall to plug the trailer in via an extension cord. From there I had planned on putting a small 2 space panel with two 15 amp breakers. One will go to a 7.5amp charger and the other for a few 15a receptacles in the trailer.

I may get more 12v lights to wire in with the existing or some LED fixtures to power through the panel... not sure on that yet.

I made a rough sketch of my plan... let me know if you see anything obvious that sticks out.

 

[Falcon67]

We have both LED and 120v lights in our trailer. I would opt for 120V with a few LEDs strictly for packing up time. Our trailer is wired for 240V with a 12 space box - even small trailer I'd use a 6 place. Also, plan how the work will be done inside, including work table spaces, etc. Tape it out on the floor. Then look at where you need outlets. And IMHO use quads, not singles.

We have a couple of these in the trailer to replace the bitty stock round lights on the ceiling.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/RVILL34.html

The rest are five full size 120v 48" dual bulb fixtures with 6500K LED bulbs.

If you use ceiling panels, these LEDs would work. But you'll need to up the house battery(s) and the charger I think.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-panel-light-fixture-1ft-x-2ft-40w/2185/4862/

 

[Mongo68]

Throw a solar panel on there. Lots of desert campers have a similar set up you drew up with solar too...

 

[AJE]

Throw a solar panel on there. Lots of desert campers have a similar set up you drew up with solar too...

We have both LED and 120v lights in our trailer. I would opt for 120V with a few LEDs strictly for packing up time. Our trailer is wired for 240V with a 12 space box - even small trailer I'd use a 6 place. Also, plan how the work will be done inside, including work table spaces, etc. Tape it out on the floor. Then look at where you need outlets. And IMHO use quads, not singles.

We have a couple of these in the trailer to replace the bitty stock round lights on the ceiling.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Lighting/Optronics/RVILL34.html

The rest are five full size 120v 48" dual bulb fixtures with 6500K LED bulbs.

If you use ceiling panels, these LEDs would work. But you'll need to up the house battery(s) and the charger I think.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-panel-light-fixture-1ft-x-2ft-40w/2185/4862/

Thank you! How big is your trailer, and what do you use it for? (if you don't mind posting)

I'm not trying to rig it up for any real work to take place inside, it's more to function as a mobile store. Phone chargers, a computer, and maybe a fan to move some air through is about the extent of our power needs so far.

Most of the places we are going are limited to a 15 or 20 amp plug in.

 

[kd3pc]

check out the Blue Sea line of weatherproof components https://www.bluesea.com/.

I would install the battery on the *********** weather proof box, the other components inside, any wiring should be installed in conduits or chases to keep rodents from ruining things. I would second Chris' idea of using a 6 place box, quad and add pulled grounds to everything.

 

[sberry]

If you are going to plug in to a common 20a circuit you do not need a panel. Get a cord ND hang up a couple power strips. If you use a 12 you can have multiple outlets, if you have 14 follow it with a power strip.

 

[AJE]

check out the Blue Sea line of weatherproof components https://www.bluesea.com/.

I would install the battery on the *********** weather proof box, the other components inside, any wiring should be installed in conduits or chases to keep rodents from ruining things. I would second Chris' idea of using a 6 place box, quad and add pulled grounds to everything.

The battery was already mounted on the inside. I would have probably preferred outside but it's already mounted, and vented out the front wall.

 

[sberry]

The only reason to put a panel is if connected to 240. Other wise it's more sharte and adds complication. Only other reason is if it comes from a 30A rv outlet.
Like I suggest is the same as a pop up camper is wired. 12 cord, 15A end. Allows it to serve multiple outlets.

 

[AJE]

So, scrapping the panel.

I was trying to err on the side of caution but I guess that could more easily overload the circuit I plug into.

 

[sberry]

If you are feeding from a common circuit it's just not needed and not used by trailer mfg. If you are wiring in to custom,, other circuits, ones intended for specialty trailers then it's a different matter. In theory the circuits you likely will be using are even gfci if they are relatively modern.
The main thing to include in this is a 12 cord. This allows for the application of the full load of the circuit without overloading the wire.

 

[sberry]

A common travel trailer has 30A service. It's rigged to allow for air cond most of the time. Because the rest of it is common 120v the circuits need to be limited to 20A. So,, they add additional breakers for this, normally 2 space panel with a 15 for the air and another 20A circuit for the rest of the place. Larger trailers have 50A 240 4 wire service.
There is an adapter made for using a common 20a circuit to a 30A plug so they can use regular circuits,, an overload would trip the premise circuit. As I mention earlier, pop up type campers have none of the additional protection. They do have a 12 cord.

 

[sberry]

If I was.doing this today would start with a ready made cord, 12 as long as I needed and a 3 way to split it after it entered the trailer. All plug and cord connected, make any changes with simple plugs.

 

[Falcon67]

Thank you! How big is your trailer, and what do you use it for? (if you don't mind posting)

I'm not trying to rig it up for any real work to take place inside, it's more to function as a mobile store. Phone chargers, a computer, and maybe a fan to move some air through is about the extent of our power needs so far.

Most of the places we are going are limited to a 15 or 20 amp plug in.

34' extra height with bath package

 

[06 DIESEL]

I suggest running the wiring and installing the outlets as required. Make a pigtail come out of the tongue of the trailer that you can plug an extension cord into. I also suggest a 10 GA cord, usually the plugins at events are few and far between, if you are running multiple devices and have a long run you would not want too much voltage drop.

 

[sberry]

That is exactly what 10 cords are for. Not a great worry shorter than 100 ft. Some drop doesn't hurt, we loose a lot of sleep over it but it doesn't matter a lot in most cases. Nominal voltage is 120 today and lots of places well above that.
I tested a service a while back, I suspected a problem and ruled it out. It was on a long daisy chain from a ****** fed several homes, hundreds of feet, low load but really long wire. Pulled 130 on a 100,, 1 volt drop.
Tested a cord for a welder, 50 ft of 12, between 3 and 4 drop at 23A.

 

[checkthisout]

Greetings, I'm trying to figure out the right way to do this.

I have a brand new cargo trailer that I'm outfitting for my wife's business, in which we will be using it as a mobile store. The trailer has a deep cycle battery already installed to power the jack, a canopy, and a few LED light fixtures. It does NOT have a charger.

I am in the process of gathering materials to add an inlet through a wall to plug the trailer in via an extension cord. From there I had planned on putting a small 2 space panel with two 15 amp breakers. One will go to a 7.5amp charger and the other for a few 15a receptacles in the trailer.

I may get more 12v lights to wire in with the existing or some LED fixtures to power through the panel... not sure on that yet.

I made a rough sketch of my plan... let me know if you see anything obvious that sticks out.

1)It looks fine. Get a standard 30 amp rv inlet plug.

View media item 91659
2)Buy Camco 10 gauge RV cords in 50' lengths to connect your trailer to whatever power source you choose.

View media item 91657
2)To make things a bit easier on yourself buy a WFCO converter/fuse panel like they use in RV's.

It has a 12V fuse panel, battery charger/converter and 120V panel all built into one unit. View media item 91658

 

[Phantomd]

Install a regular RV power converter like checkthisout suggests. The RV industry has already solved your problem.

You can get that panel for about $130. Not cheap but it includes a battery charger, 120v breaker spots and 12v fuse spots all in a nice package.

 

[sberry]

Including the charger takes a little pain out of it. Only reason I suggest super simple and staying 20A is its not intended to be used at camp sites. If they were staying where 30
A service was common and camping hard in it I would see it slightly differently. I might even make the lights 120V and add a 3 way switch could still have battery and use inverter, a little one.
I see you have a jack, that takes the battery, the small charger is a simple idea. Get an automatic. About 10A unit,, only take an amp or so to run it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Install a regular RV power converter like checkthisout suggests. The RV industry has already solved your problem.

You can get that panel for about $130. Not cheap but it includes a battery charger, 120v breaker spots and 12v fuse spots all in a nice package.

True, but most of the RV converter/chargers are **** !

 

[nsula_country]

True, but most of the RV converter/chargers are **** !

They kinda cheesy. I have 3 RVs at my house from 1987 to 2016. None of them had had a charger/converter failure... Yet.

CT

 

[Backwodsurvivor]

I really like that WFCO converter/fuse panel but for the phone chargers, lights, computer and fan you want to run it seems to be a bit overkill to go with that or a 30A connection. The battery charger sounds like it'll be your biggest draw. I've been using a 15A connection on a 50' 14ga cord for a few years while I didn't have a garage and worked out of my trailer.

Here are the ramblings that I will call math:

I had 2 LED strips that pulled 50 watts a piece that lit up the 14' trailer very well. Hopping to Google, phone chargers are going to draw almost nothing (2-6 watts.) A box fan will draw around 40-100 watts. Desktops pull 40-250 watts. Battery charger is going to depend on how much charging you need to do.

Your power needs are about 4-5 amps.

I've used a couple of outlets like these and never had an issue. Seal them well and maybe use a backing plate to support it on the thin aluminum siding.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI38MG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I am a huge fan of keeping it simple. However I am a plumber not an electrician...

 

[sberry]

If I had to drag out cord might settle for a simple port to run the cord thru. Having done this the other way (and I can) I would be looking to plug and play especially during set up till I got it all squared around, then if I wanted or needed might put in some fixed pieces.
A longtime ago it was a little different matter but the box stores got so much on the shelf that a guy could assemble this in a few minutes. No ordering, getting stuff you change your mind about or **** aint where it seemed like a good idea when you start etc.
To the plumma above, I agree that 14 will serve the load and is fine with an eye on it for calculated load but ideally 14 would be followed up with a power strip if there are multiple recepts.
On general circuits this is a bit the point of the nreaker, there are multiple outlets and the end user can plug many appliances in to the same circuit and overload the wire. Common power strips use 14, even though the little breaker in them follows the wire it protects it from thermal overload by limiting it for the extra outlets. I have one of those little squirl fans,, has 2 outlets on it all 16 cord but,, there is a little 10A breaker in it to keep any loads added below the capacity to overheat the wire.

 

[AJE]

The full RV panel I agree is overkill, and most places we will be wouldn't have a 30a hookup anyway.

 

[nsula_country]

But, it does incorporate an automatic battery charger.

 

[checkthisout]

The full RV panel I agree is overkill, and most places we will be wouldn't have a 30a hookup anyway.

Hi, it includes a 4 mode battery charger, your 120V panel and a 12V fuse panel all in one easy to install unit.

Once you buy you breaker panel, the knockouts to retain the wire, battery charger and 12V fuse panel, you will be close to the same money without as neat of an install.

The outlet I posted a pic of is less cost than a 20 amp power inlet.

Don't worry, we got you handled.

 

[bggrnchvy]

3rd the RV panel. The converters aren't amazing, but they do what you need in a great form factor. I thought Progressive Dynamics had some small ones for 110v power, like 30a rated (DC) units in the $125 range.

Also 2nd adding solar, even if it's just 100w through an inverter to a dedicated outlet. I had 120w on my pop-up camper and I just added 400w to my 38' cargo. So nice not to have to always find a spot to plug in or run a generator just to charge a phone.

 

[Falcon67]

The full RV panel I agree is overkill, and most places we will be wouldn't have a 30a hookup anyway.

Then you carry a Honda 2000 or one of the HF Predator inverter generators. 30A RV outlet on those, connect to trailer.

 

[sberry]

Why do that if he has electric to plug in to?

 

[slow]

I am 100% guilty of making things too complicated, but how long/often do you need to use the trailer?

12 volt powered USB charging stations may make more sense than just 120 volt outlets. Allow these low current draws directly off the existing house battery.

a 12 volt fan also allows it to be used without shore power. Depending on size, the run time might dictate a larger house battery.

I am a big fan of inverters and solar, but you need to know if it makes sense. If your using the trailer 4 hours a month, vs using it 40 hours a week..