Adding exterior water faucets

[CZ Eddie]

Hi, I'm remodeling my two car attached garage. The walls are made from 2x4 and I've tapped PEX tubing to copper hot & cold pipes from a wall the garage shares with an indoor bathroom.
I've run PEX from this location, all the way to the front of my garage and the next step is to install a faucet on the exterior of the garage wall.
This will be so I can wash my dog in the mild Texas winters. He hates cold water and there is nowhere to wash him indoors. I also figure the hot water may come in handy for other things.

Anyways, I'm in Central Texas (Austin) and don't think I have any need for a $150 freeze proof faucet since the faucet will always be turned off unless I'm outside using it.
That, an my garage wall is 2x4 so these huge long frost proof faucets wouldn't fit.
My exterior walls are vinyl siding. What's a good, inexpensive way to install a faucet on the wall and what hot/cold exterior faucet might you recommend that falls in the $10-$40 budget category?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I installed a Woodford hot-cold faucet and have been very happy with it. I believe I saw this same unit priced anywhere for $70 to $150 but picked mine up for $25 on E-bay.

 

[volleyball]

If it freezes where you are, you can add a pair of shut offs where it stays warm and then open the outside faucets and let them drain. Make sure the piping is such that they do drain.
You can then even use a slop sink faucet on the outside wall.

 

[egnorant]

If it freezes where you are, you can add a pair of shut offs where it stays warm and then open the outside faucets and let them drain. Make sure the piping is such that they do drain.
You can then even use a slop sink faucet on the outside wall.

THIS!! My Dad set up 2 faucets like this 35 years ago in East Texas and enjoy them often.

Bruce

 

[ArkTinkerer]

I'm in an area that gets a few hard freezes every year (down in the teens). I installed faucets where the actual valve assembly is either 12 or 18" back from the handle. This puts it either inside the house or, more usually, under the house in the crawlspace. Only had to replace one that wore out. Not that expensive. <$30 Is the garage and supply lines kept above freezing?


ArkTinkerer

 

[CZ Eddie]

If it freezes where you are, you can add a pair of shut offs where it stays warm and then open the outside faucets and let them drain. Make sure the piping is such that they do drain.
You can then even use a slop sink faucet on the outside wall.

Wow, even the shop faucets are like $100 or more. More like $150 or more.
I didn't see anything on eBay for less than $100.
Starting to re-think this idea since it was a fluff idea, strawberry on type kind of thing.

 

[j p smith]

I think there was a post where someone had a faucett on an outside wall and inside the shop, inside the wall they had used 2 ball valves, 1 for the hot, 1 for the cold, then ran the hot & cold lines together going to the faucett. Controlled the temp with the ball valves.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Wow, even the shop faucets are like $100 or more. More like $150 or more.
I didn't see anything on eBay for less than $100.
Starting to re-think this idea since it was a fluff idea, strawberry on type kind of thing.

http://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...ucet-12-inch-metal-handle/p-191693-c-8629.htm

$44

Or you could put 2 valves (One for hot, 1 for cold) then put a Wye or Tee to join them.

 

[lilredex]

The simplest way.


adult image hosting

Add inside valves to drain as needed. I have had this arrangement on my past two houses and find that if you leave the hot open all the time, the shower (and others) will alternate between hot/cold, because the water takes the route of least resistance. We only open the "hot" faucet as required.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202155&showall=1

 

[CZ Eddie]

I think there was a post where someone had a faucett on an outside wall and inside the shop, inside the wall they had used 2 ball valves, 1 for the hot, 1 for the cold, then ran the hot & cold lines together going to the faucet. Controlled the temp with the ball valves.

Not sure I'm picturing that right.

http://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...ucet-12-inch-metal-handle/p-191693-c-8629.htm

$44

Or you could put 2 valves (One for hot, 1 for cold) then put a Wye or Tee to join them.

That thing has a decent price (for my budget) but is 12" so it would stick too far into my garage and probably get banged up. Even the 8" models would likely stick out too far.

The simplest way.


adult image hosting

Add inside valves to drain as needed. I have had this arrangement on my past two houses and find that if you leave the hot open all the time, the shower (and others) will alternate between hot/cold, because the water takes the route of least resistance. We only open the "hot" faucet as required.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202155&showall=1

Thanks. I don't have those exterior lines and want my exterior faucet that I add, to have nozles right there to adjust. I appreciate the post though.

 

[captaindiode]

Why not install two exterior faucets, one hot, one cold, and connect them with a washing maching "y" hose?

The faucets are around $7 each and the hose is around $6. Put shut off inside as suggested before in case of freezing temps.

 

[ArkTinkerer]

What I am thinking of are called "sillcock valves". Like this:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_21526-34146...pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=silcock+valve&facetInfo=

 

[volleyball]

The simplest way.


adult image hosting

Add inside valves to drain as needed. I have had this arrangement on my past two houses and find that if you leave the hot open all the time, the shower (and others) will alternate between hot/cold, because the water takes the route of least resistance. We only open the "hot" faucet as required.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202155&showall=1

That there is bad plumbing. You should not be tying your hot and cold together. No wonder you have problems. You can put a $20 faucet on there and fix it

 

[coljar]

Outside frost faucet is $32 at Home Depot. Here's my plan. Hot & cold pex from house to garage. Quarter turn blending valves (hot & cold) inside of garage with a mark on the wall behind the hot valve handle designate the best setting on the hot valve so the water is just warm. From there one pex pipe will run to the frost faucet. Simple and cheap.

 

[volleyball]

Simple and cheap but a lot of work. And how do you plan on keeping the pex from filling with ice? In a garage, it will be exposed to freezing weather once the door is opened.

 

[coljar]

Simple and cheap but a lot of work. And how do you plan on keeping the pex from filling with ice? In a garage, it will be exposed to freezing weather once the door is opened.

No, not really. Everything runs underground in conduits from the house and there's conduits under the floor for water lines and electric and communication. All separate, and as far as the garage, it will be heated and cooled full time. Doors only open to move cars in and out.

 

[lilredex]

That there is bad plumbing. You should not be tying your hot and cold together. No wonder you have problems. You can put a $20 faucet on there and fix it

Probably not ideal, but it came with the house. For the limited use (hot water) it has seen, it has worked out OK.

I'd be interested in seeing your $20 solution, as others here would be too.

 

[yeldogt]

I have had more problems with the expensive -- "frost proof" faucets .. especially teh ones with the backfow/ anti siphon thingy on top. They leak -- and the wall of the tube after the valve is so thin that it will freeze in a heart beat -- if you leave a hose attached.

If you have an open basement that is heated -- the regular ones I have had in my climate never freeze -- even last winter

 

[n8n]

Use a stop and waste ball valve inside and a sillcock outside. Done and done.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[j p smith]

CZ Eddie, I will see if I can come up with a picture this evening, J P

 

[Matt The Hammer]

Probably not ideal, but it came with the house. For the limited use (hot water) it has seen, it has worked out OK.

I'd be interested in seeing your $20 solution, as others here would be too.

I live close to the beach. Every house has an outdoor shower for washing off sand and all. It freezes here. The outside showers are nothing fancy.

I'd think the OP's needs are essentially the same as a beach house.

I'd do something like this but change the shower head to one with a hose so it's easy to wash your dogs.

It's your house. Make it however you want. I'd have the shower head with two lines and two valves. Plus add 'foot washers' spigots so you can wash your feet, fill a bucket or just hook up a standard hose.

Copper lines are almost like legos since you can modify them so easily.

 

[yeldogt]

Matt: thats the same set up we have ... shut off the main and the last one out opens all the drains

I got talked into the upgrade ... best to KISS

 

[volleyball]

No, not really. Everything runs underground in conduits from the house and there's conduits under the floor for water lines and electric and communication. All separate, and as far as the garage, it will be heated and cooled full time. Doors only open to move cars in and out.

Simple and cheap? I don't see. you lost me at conduit, heated and cooled. Will it work? It should. Maybe not.

 

[volleyball]

Probably not ideal, but it came with the house. For the limited use (hot water) it has seen, it has worked out OK.

I'd be interested in seeing your $20 solution, as others here would be too.

Cut the line between the hot and cold. Put a cheap kitchen faucet on there. I would even think of getting a throw away SS kitchen sink there to wash the dog

 

[j p smith]

CZ Eddie. Sorry, I forgot about the picture. Here is what I was thinking I had seen in another post, one of the guys did this to have warm water outside.

 

[gml1998]

I have installed a Moen shower valve With hot and cold supplies in a garage then ran 1/2 inch copper from it to where you want your hook up. Run the copper at a downward pitch and it is self draining. Sweat a 3/4 inch male adapter on the end for your standard garden hose.

 

[sberry]

Install a shower valve in the wall so the handle is outside. With plumbing on the inside of the wall it will be fine in Texas.

 

[sberry]

I live close to the beach. Every house has an outdoor shower for washing off sand and all. It freezes here. The outside showers are nothing fancy.

I'd think the OP's needs are essentially the same as a beach house.

I'd do something like this but change the shower head to one with a hose so it's easy to wash your dogs.

It's your house. Make it however you want. I'd have the shower head with two lines and two valves. Plus add 'foot washers' spigots so you can wash your feet, fill a bucket or just hook up a standard hose.

Copper lines are almost like legos since you can modify them so easily.

Its the beauty of plumbing really. I missed 1 hydrant location and in the end routing an additional pipe wasn't all bad.
Its more rare as time goes on but I still modified 2 outdoor circuits at my parents house this year to reduce hoses. I was going to add one to another location by my cooler but it all worked out but I aint scared to dig a ditch and roll in a pipe if it makes it easier. I tie as much of it together originating from the same circuits so I can hook air on to winterize the outside.

 

[sberry]

I saw an episode of this old houswe where they installed an outside. The owners had lived with the armpit for a decade, must have never occurred to his suburban *** that it was possible to run a hydrant out the other side of the house. Must have been an enlightening revelation.

 

[sberry]

There is a plus t using a shower valve, a couple of them and a hose with head too. They are sized right for residential demands similar to a frost free and a common sillcock in that they have some restriction so we don't pressure drop the whole system. It slows filling a 5 gallon bucket a little but conserves a lot of water. The idea isn't to dump as much as you can but to meet the demand with a modest volume.

I am on a different system than most homes, I have a 3 hp well and 1 1/4 to building then inch to 3/4 hydrants. Every pipe is sized up one, I do some minor5 irrigation from it as well as fill some tanks and I can open it to run the well steady, my system will allow opening a full port 3/4 with a 3/4 hose and still maintain 40# while running laundry and a shower, the rest of the residential demands.
Where one has good water pressure and low flow fittings the scalding showers when someone flushes are near a thing of the past on systems with 3/4 main.

 

[yeldogt]

I had a problem with using shower valves in my garage for mixed temp water -- most of the base Kohler/ Moen use a plastic insert and mine kept cracking.

What I really did not understand about freezing pipes is that it is a buildup of pressure that bursts them. The ice forms and seals a section of pipe .. as the ice continues to grow in the pipe it is raising the pressure on both sides of the pipe ... until the weakest link fails ... often a fitting ... or in my case the plastic shower valve.

While my garage was heated it was not kept very high -- so you have to make sure you protect the valve .. I gave up.