Adding gas line to detached garage

[carlconrad]

Can anyone tell me if this new line I’m going to be installing will be ok. I want to make sure I don’t starve other appliances on the run. I drew up a basic pic of what my intentions are. Any input would be good. The new line would t off the main at basically the earliest spot I could in the house without a bunch of things being in the way. Thanks for the input

 

[PoorUB]

What is the gas pressure? Are there pressure regulators on the gas pipe at the existing furnace and water heater?

Regulator, so I am assuming natural gas?

I haven't run the numbers, but I would bet it will be ok. The big variable is the gas pressure.

 

[carlconrad]

It is natural gas yes. I’m not sure what the gas pressure is.

 

[mm08822]

Take a picture of the meter nameplate and any regulators that might be inside.

 

[PoorUB]

It is natural gas yes. I’m not sure what the gas pressure is.

Is there gas regulators at the furnace and water heater?

 

[carlconrad]

Is there gas regulators at the furnace and water heater?

There are no gas regulators in the home just the one at the gas meter

 

[carlconrad]

Take a picture of the meter nameplate and any regulators that might be inside.

Here are the pics of the meter itself. There are no regulators in the home.

 

[TurnipTruck]

6-8 inches of water column, so it’s the standard low pressure.

 

[PoorUB]

The 85 feet out to the shop is a bit on the small side. I see it good for around 70kBTU. In reality, it is probably fine. 1" to the shop would be preferred because of the distance. The 1" run from the meter to where it tees of is good. The appliances in the house are fine.

 

[PoorUB]

Why 80K BTU in the shop? How large and what construction? 80K BTU will heat 2500 sqft. considering reasonable construction. Is the shop that large?

 

[mm08822]

I would connect the new 1" line at the meter and leave the existing piping as is.

Changing to 1" underground would cover anything in the future. It's only a few $ more. Plus we have no idea of the number of fittings in between

 

[carlconrad]

I would connect the new 1" line at the meter and leave the existing piping as is.

Changing to 1" underground would cover anything in the future. It's only a few $ more. Plus we have no idea of the number of fittings in between

Can I t off the line right where it enters my basement instead of outside directly at the meter and change it up a bit and run the 1” line from there or would that still be technically the same

 

[yatg]

Rule of thumb is that each fitting (ell,tee) adds 5' to the effective length.
The above drawing cuts out 3 elbows in the run, and bypasses 2 elbows in front of the original tee location.
Don't forget to take into account fittings for elevation change, i.e. going out of the building and into the ground, and vice-versa.

 

[mm08822]

Can I t off the line right where it enters my basement instead of outside directly at the meter and change it up a bit and run the 1” line from there or would that still be technically the same

That works.

 

[T444e]

Without looking at the tables, I'm agree with PoorUB that it should be fine.

I heat 1800 sf, well insulated shed with a 50k BTU 80% furnace in SE WI. I wouldn't want anything larger, when I set it to maintain 68, it would run for around 20 minutes and the be off for 40-50 minutes on cold days. Granted I'm only heating half of it to 68 and leave the door between the shop and garage bay cracked to keep the other half around 45.

Teeing off in the basement would be the same as teeing off at the meter, more or less. Technically, there is an impact, but it is negligible.

Edited for furnace size.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

If you tee in the basement, you need to run black steel (black malleable fittings) for the part in the basement. Exit the basement above ground, put in a shut off valve and then run the underground part with anodeless service risers and gas-rated polyethylene pipe (they sell it at Home Depot) and use a tracer wire so it can be located in the future when someone needs to dig around it.

You'll come out of the ground outside the garage with another anodeless service riser and then use black steel gas pipe on into the garage.
I'm trying to make the point that you can't use PE above ground (like inside your basement) and I would not recommend using steel pipe underground as it will eventually rust through and fail. Yes, gas companies use steel pipe underground...but we do it by properly coating the pipe and applying cathodic protection. Without those steps...underground steel lines fail, eventually.

 

[PoorUB]

I would still like to know the size of this detached garage and how someone arrived at 80,000 BTU. Most people oversize the **** out of the heating system.