Adding insulation to garage door?

[tegguy]

I have a 3 car garage in central Florida and well it's Florida so it's hot. The house is newer construction (2013) so it's rather energy efficient except for the garage. I am thinking of trying to insulate the garage doors to try to cool the garage off a little bit. I was curious if anyone here has done this and what did you use? I was looking at the Dowcorning garage door kit but I'm not sure if it would work on my doors because there are vertical dividers. I have a 16 foot door and one 7-8 foot door.

After this I was thinking about possibly trying to convince the wife for a ductless AC

 

[R_einan]

Can also buy just the 4x8 sheets and cut your own as opposed to the ‘kit’. Probably cheaper too. A thin kerf non carbide blade works wonderfully at cutting it on a table saw.

 

[tegguy]

Any ideas what kind of an R value they'd give?

I thought about just buying some vinyl backed insulation (same stuff in the kit) and installing that but I wasn't sure how to attach it

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[kd3pc]

don't forget to adjust the door closer/opener for the added insulation. My door came insulated.

 

[softailgarage]

I used the Dow corning kit about 5 years ago. It was an easy installation, kept the garage cool during summer and warmer in the winter. Helped soundproof a little too. The only drawback was how the panels attach to the door, about a year later some of the panels began to loosen.

 

[tegguy]

Did you just glue them back in place?

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[softailgarage]

Did you just glue them back in place?

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Sold the house

But thats what I would have done.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd use some 1" (or whatever will fit in your door) foil faced polyiso insulation in those spaces. I'd hold it in with some foil tape but make sure to clean off the galvanized steel so it sticks well.

I'd recommend taking of the wind bracing and replacing after installing the insulation.

The R-value with depend on the thickness of the insulation you use.

 

[taebert]

I have a garage door of similar construction. I bought a sheet or two of the blue foam board and cut it to fit into the recesses of the door panels. I also upgraded the seal around the door to minimize air infiltration. Where I live in the north east, it is usually cold air getting in that I am worried about. I can tell you it made a big difference and has lasted for about twenty years so far.


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[R_einan]

Any ideas what kind of an R value they'd give?

I thought about just buying some vinyl backed insulation (same stuff in the kit) and installing that but I wasn't sure how to attach it

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They vary in r-value based on thickness and composition, looks like you could fit 1.5” or 2” in there from your pictures, so 7-10 r-value. As for attachment, there are tones of possibilities. On my wood door is used construction adhesive, but on a metal door, you could probably make it a friction fit. Another option is holding it up with some perforated metal hanging strap; come on a roll and you can cut it length with sheet metal shears.

 

[tegguy]

They vary in r-value based on thickness and composition, looks like you could fit 1.5” or 2” in there from your pictures, so 7-10 r-value. As for attachment, there are tones of possibilities. On my wood door is used construction adhesive, but on a metal door, you could probably make it a friction fit. Another option is holding it up with some perforated metal hanging strap; come on a roll and you can cut it length with sheet metal shears.

Ah good idea on the plumbers strap

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[Kermit007]

I used insulation board cut to fit.
Unfortunately, I did not have the horizontal bracing on each panel like you do which led to my door developing a split in the middle of the door at the top. As previously mentioned, the door also needs to be balanced.


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[rburke65]

A little spray foam to fill the gaps.

 

[Falcon67]

House and shop the same - 4x8 sheets of 1/2" insulation from HD. Cheap, very effective. Just cut and wedged in, no stick-um or anything else.

 

[Slednut]

SIL did the same as Falcon67, he did slice each panel down the middle so he could wedge them in the channels.

 

[tegguy]

Thanks looks like I have a trip to the store in my new future

 

[Hopey]

Those are composite Wayne Dalton doors with hurricane braces to meet Fl building code, they already have a decent R value. Is your water heater in the garage? Probably so. Consider changing it to a heat pump style to pull some of the heat out the garage. Check your attic space above the garage. Bet it’s not insulated...

 

[tegguy]

Those are composite Wayne Dalton doors with hurricane braces to meet Fl building code, they already have a decent R value. Is your water heater in the garage? Probably so. Consider changing it to a heat pump style to pull some of the heat out the garage. Check your attic space above the garage. Bet it’s not insulated...

Yes water heater is in the garage. There is no attic above the garage it's living space

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[Jason B]

Looking to put an insulation kit on my garage doors. Looking for something that looks clean and will help in winter, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKWDT7W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B43UNNQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cellofo...es-Garage-Door-Insulation-Kit-8-pcs/203630159

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...ion-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Insulfoam-Garage-Door-Insulation-Kit-320737/205416252

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Insulfoam-Insulfoam-Garage-Door-Insulation-Kit/3025310

Above are some links to some options. Some say R8, some say R4 per 1 inch. Not sure which to do and wanted some suggestions? The Owens brand looks like **** when installed, but says R8. Thanks everyone...

EDIT: Here’s a picture of my neighbors which I really really like this clean look. Need to find out what he used. I just want a more factory look and need to see what his r value is.

 

[Hopey]

Yes water heater is in the garage. There is no attic above the garage it's living space

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That’s good. You can’t easily insulate these doors because the hinge pivots are offset from the bracing due to hurricane requirements. I have the exact same doors and they stay pretty cool even in direct sunlight. You could try some of that stick on foil. For me, I did nothing, just added a mini split to the garage and insulated the ceiling.

 

[tegguy]

That’s good. You can’t easily insulate these doors because the hinge pivots are offset from the bracing due to hurricane requirements. I have the exact same doors and they stay pretty cool even in direct sunlight. You could try some of that stick on foil. For me, I did nothing, just added a mini split to the garage and insulated the ceiling.

Thanks for the input

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[Notgrownup]

I bought the kit from Home Depot it went ineasy and does very well...slick plastic material on 1 side...trimmed around the windows with foam trim and caulk adhesive.

 

[Jason B]

That’s good. You can’t easily insulate these doors because the hinge pivots are offset from the bracing due to hurricane requirements. I have the exact same doors and they stay pretty cool even in direct sunlight. You could try some of that stick on foil. For me, I did nothing, just added a mini split to the garage and insulated the ceiling.

Good point. Thank you. What's a mini split?

 

[Jason B]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IO3HKO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MI9NYK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Curious on thoughts of these? My neighbor was looking at kits and send me these asking for my opinion....

 

[QwikKotaTx]

This is 1" polyiso foam panel with foil backing from home depot. It took 4 sheets to do my 16' door. Each bay is around 20" x 45". I had some scrap that I will use elsewhere. About $22 per 4'x8' panel. R6 Very easy to cut with a large razor knife. I made it fit about as tight as possible with an 1/8" undersize when pressed up into the top flange/lip of the bays and then forced inwards and down into the bottom flange/lip. No issue with it coming out of the bay when door is raised and lowered. It needs the rest of the garage to be insulated to be effective.