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Adding Locks to Metal Building?

SOAMthingiForgot

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Mar 22, 2023
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Was wondering if anyone had any advice for adding a more substantial lock to doors to my shop.

It is a metal building, and the doors are metal. They do currently have locks, but they are just locked on the knob itself - not very secure.

I don't have a ton of concerns where I live about theft, but sometimes my mind worries and I'd like to have a little more piece of mind.

I have considered dual eyebolts and a padlock/chain situation, but wondered if anyone else had brilliant/elegant ideas or experience on what they have done.
 
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Packard V8

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Spokane, WA
Up here, locks on isolated buildings are just decorations. Thieves get around them two ways, depending on the type metal building.

If there is a blind side to the building with the metal secured by screws, a battery screw gun to remove the metal screws in a sheet of siding and they make their own door.

If it's a sheeted building with lap metal siding, an old bumper jack is used to spread the door jam at the lock. In this case, an interlocking dead bolt will slow them down.

jack vines
 

Verado1250

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Feb 9, 2016
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I used to be in the camp of more locks, deadbolts, etc., but around where I live, if you don't live near the building, they'll get in one way or the other. I've seen meth heads ram their beater trucks through garage doors to get in. Then, besides having to replace the tools, they also have to do extensive repairs to the building. With the battery powered grinders now, they can even cut through the tin on a metal building. My shop is pretty close to the house and I've got 2 German Shepherds that stay in the kennel next to the shop, and they live in there when it gets colder out, so I don't have too many worries. I just lock the door knobs and leave the rest to the dogs.
 

Shadowdog500

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Down the shore
My shop has a couple windows they can easily break into so I invested in an alarm system and cameras instead of more locks. I also have exterior lighting and a big dog. All you really need to break into most medal buildings is a T25 bit to unscrew part of the exterior.
 

Stuart in MN

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Minneapolis
A good quality deadbolt on the door, along with reinforcing the jamb where the deadbolt engages is a good idea. I have Medeco locks but they're expensive, Schlage or one of the other name brands would be good too. You can reinforce the jamb by installing wood or metal between the door frame and the building frame with appropriate screws (drywall type screws are brittle and can be snapped, don't use them.) Burglars will often try to break down the door with a big kick, or by using a pry bar against the jamb where the lock engages so you want to reinforce it at that point so it's resistant to bending.

As mentioned, a burglar is going to get in if they really want to, but if you can discourage them they'll usually move on to easier pickings.
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
I kinda feel the same way, why build a door barrier when the skin of this building is likely 16 gauge steel?
I use "obvious" cameras as a deterrent. And hidden cameras for actual video. If you have internet service, you can setup cameras to text you if there is motion during certain hours.
 

ybnormal

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Jan 3, 2016
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Was wondering if anyone had any advice for adding a more substantial lock to doors to my shop.

It is a metal building, and the doors are metal. They do currently have locks, but they are just locked on the knob itself - not very secure.

I don't have a ton of concerns where I live about theft, but sometimes my mind worries and I'd like to have a little more piece of mind.

I have considered dual eyebolts and a padlock/chain situation, but wondered if anyone else had brilliant/elegant ideas or experience on what they have done.
have you tried welding the doors shut? 😁
 

Rusted Nut

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Dec 11, 2022
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PNW
Difficult to retrofit a dead bolt into an existing metal door, as there is no reinforcement around the deadbolt as there would be if you ordered the door that way. Best thing is probably a metal bar or two that goes through a piece of well secured steel tang.

Something like this:

 

The Cobbler

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Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
Difficult to retrofit a dead bolt into an existing metal door, as there is no reinforcement around the deadbolt as there would be if you ordered the door that way
I've done it many times, just cut a few short pcs of pipe or something,even wood. slip in between the skins and you're golden . one on either side of the latch and one on the other side of the hole .
 
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bb29510

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Difficult to retrofit a dead bolt into an existing metal door, as there is no reinforcement around the deadbolt as there would be if you ordered the door that way. Best thing is probably a metal bar or two that goes through a piece of well secured steel tang.

Something like this:

i welded a pipe (1/2) to bottom of door, a piece of angle on the door jamb with hole drill in. i got a ten inch anchor bolt stuck in them, one on each side of door
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
The weakest part of any door locking STSTEM is typically the jam. Even if the jam is steel, how stout is it and how is it attached to the building frame ?

The best way to secure a door is with a 1/2 steel bar that goes across the door and drop into 2 steel pockets secured to the building frame. If you use lag bolts or structure screws into wood studs, multiple blows can still cause it to pull out.

With the bar, you still need a way to "unlock" it from the outside.
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
Best defense is a dog who barks at strangers. Not practical where you won't visit a couple times a day.

Second best, multiple motion sensors lights. Add a recorded dog barking !
 

vwpieces

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Hills, PA
I reinforced the jam inside with steel plate, still hidden under door trim. Wood door frame, block building.
Man door also has a window. So, when I added a deadbolt I used one that needs a key from inside and outside. No turn to lock flipper thing, Keys on both sides.
My shop is just outside the house. I might go into more secure measures if my shop was not on my property. I do have cameras that send motion notification to my phone too.
 

olytdi

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Dec 3, 2011
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Olympia, Washington
I have always reinforced the man door jam with a 2 or 3 ft-long piece of angle iron centered at the deadbolt/pass knob. Sounds like the OP doesn't have a deadbolt capability. Motion lights always help.

While it won't work for everyone, I found that the best protection for my shop (and home, for that matter), was to put in a steel locking gate (like those found on a logging road) at the end of the driveway at the road so that they can't even get to the buildings. There is no way onto the property except by the driveway unless you want to traverse wetlands and steep wooded slopes by foot. As such, they'd have to hike in and hike out 400 ft with stolen goods and load them at the road.

All of that said, if one wanted to get into my pole barn shop, they'd just need a few tools to go right through the steel. That's why I like to keep evil doers from even getting up to the buildings.

The dog and I have our morning and evening ritual of taking a walk to open the gate for the day first thing in the morning, and close the gate before closing down for the night.
 

dogdog

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if your area is high crime and people does force entry like back in the days in NYC 1970s and 80s..... back in the days I remember these fox locks, and the police hate them when drug dealers started using them.... didn't stop the police/criminals from entering the apartments, but dam sure will take them a very very long time to get in. of cause those are the days without cordless tools.


There was another version that have the fox lock and a crow bar or piece of iron to the floor... I think that one was out law cause the police couldn't get in at all with their battering rams...

something like these I think... only have seen it once..at a friend's apartment, that happened to be in a drug infested and high crime area back in the days.

 

Mike65

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Mar 7, 2007
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Location
Horse Pasture, Va.
We live in a nice rural neighborhood I have the roll up doors on our shop with a slid bar to lock them shut but have a handle on the outside like the storage unit doors. I drilled a hole in the slide bar on the inside & slip a padlock through the bar to lock them. The walk-thru door also has a locking handle. I also have SimpliSafe as an added level of security.
 

racecougar

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Missouri
I kinda feel the same way, why build a door barrier when the skin of this building is likely 16 gauge steel?
Even worse, it's more likely to be 26 or 29 gauge steel. I agree with cameras and other obvious deterrents. Then there's the smoke screen alarm option, best if it's clearly labeled/alerted as poison gas. :)
 

bb29510

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get a 55 drum, put about 20, 45 shell into it, couple 12 ga, bird shot leave a nice patten, couple slugs.

then use it has a trash bin, just outside your door
 
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