Awhile back my pole barn electric was done to a minimum by the electrician, just enough to pass so the power could be turned on..Now I wish to get some outlets for heat etc installed before it gets to cold. Question is should I go the route as the electrician(in pics) or just run stapled romex to my receptacles..I plan on finished electrical, 2x6 studs and insulating the walls next summer?
Adding more electrical after inspection pass
- Thread starter hiccup
- Start date
luvtheheat
Well-known member
Romex thru conduit? Not in my garage!
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Its completely fine and is a good way to add protection where needed. People thinking romex can't be in conduit is an internet myth
@hiccup you need to protect wiring anywhere subject to damage. If the walls were staying open, I'd mimic what the electrician did, but if you are going to finish the interior, just staple it to the sides of the posts
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luvtheheat
Well-known member
I didn't say it wasn't allowed; I just wouldn't do it personally.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
luvtheheat
Well-known member
Heat dissipation during high loads. Impossible to pull another circuit through it if needs. I've also seen it used on roof tops in AZ (which would be a violation (outdoors), if I understand correctly) where ambient temps can be 120+. Easy to see it overheating in that environment under any heavy load.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If it overheats in a short conduit sleeve, it was going to overheat anyway
Nailed it IMHO
This is (mostly) personal opinion about situations that don't even apply to the op, why bother bringing it up?
Consider that what you add technically needs re-inspection before concealing it.
I have lots of temporary NMD wiring in the shop. I kept it outside the walls because it will be switched to surface conduit when I'm happy with it. That way it can also be inspected anytime, (unlikely as that may be).
I have lots of temporary NMD wiring in the shop. I kept it outside the walls because it will be switched to surface conduit when I'm happy with it. That way it can also be inspected anytime, (unlikely as that may be).
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
Dang good advice.
I'd go even further.
Hang a couple of retractable extension cord units from the ceiling. Play around and use the space until you are ready to finish the interior. It will help with decisions on where to run power and outlets.
I spend quite a bit of time planning wiring for work space. I've done a few shops over the years. Even with planning, I still find spots to add or reconfigure layout and wiring.
thanks just wanting some reassurance that will be ok until my walls are finished out next year..I'm probably gonna redo the electricians work too..I like the metal conduit look for a work space but by time I run that everywhere and pull wire it would feel like a big expense for a 36x48 with loft..Also one place I screwed up was not blocking my breaker panel out to account for a finished wall so that messed up my "industrial" look 
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
It's not impossible if you use a large enough conduit.
You're the one that will be working around it. Your care, attention, and habits go way further than any reassurance we can give you.
Retractable/reel cords have never been my thing, but always been flush with spare lengths of cable and junction boxes.
Maybe see if you can still block the panel out how you intended.
If had planned it right or at least got a suggestion from the electrician I'd had the panel set out flush with the post at least..I dont know what trouble it'd be to do that now
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Where is the conduit out the bottom of the panel going? Is the feed from the meter into the back?
Innovate1
Well-known member
When I read the title I thought the the main issue was about adding more circuits without another permit/inspection. An electrician who built a detached garage near me did the minimum electrical for permit and said he would be adding more circuits after inspection. I think some areas charge by the circuit so maybe he was worried about that but I just built under the same city code and there wasn't anything about how much electric was planned. Maybe he figured it would be lower valuation for taxes - our taxes here are high. I did all of it up front but not to say if I needed to add a circuit I would probably just do it.
The outside panel conduit going underground to utility pole..the inside conduit to a sub on opposite wall.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That's Going to make it tough to move the panel out. Is there already wire in it?
Yes you are correct I was just wanting the ok to add a few receptacles fed romex only temporarily..the discussion of the panels was added because of talk of my final plan to stay with "visible" conduit/ metal boxes out of a fully exposed panel..or everything just put behind finished walls like in a house..As far as inspections or codes it will never see another inspect cause its on a farm in a Kentucky county.
Yes it's in use and probably no loops left in there for future work..It will probably remain where it is and will have the panel offset within the wall.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
It won't be too bad. Obviously the ****** between the meter and panel is going to be too short, the wires probably will be as well but they are short enough that replacing them won't cost much. Hopefully, the wires to the subpanel haven't been pulled, if they have, pull 'em out. You can cut the PVC off a few inches above the floor, heat up a new piece and bend an offset in it. You could also bend an offset in the existing, but it's gonna be too short so a piece will have to be cut off the top and replaced by a piece a little longer.
As far as slinging in some temp outlets, use 4X4 metal boxes screwed to scrap wood. You can screw the wood to the framing and take it off without taking the box apart to move it out of the way while finishing the inside.
Get a new length of conduit and bend the necessary offset in it for the panel to be flush with the framed wall surface.
Use the offset piece to determine where to cut the stub up at. Also check the offset amount against the feeder slack in the panel.......worst case you may need to lower panel 4".
If lowering the panel is necessary, KO seal the existing feeder hole and punch a new one.
Use the offset piece to determine where to cut the stub up at. Also check the offset amount against the feeder slack in the panel.......worst case you may need to lower panel 4".
If lowering the panel is necessary, KO seal the existing feeder hole and punch a new one.
sparky 1971
Well-known member
Or get a 12X12X8 junction box. Set it up so there the sub panel feeder is going into it as well as 4" sticking out of the finished wall. Come out the top of it and into the bottom of the panel. It will probably still need an offset to make everything happen but the offset will stay inside the wall and won't be an eyesore.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Is this a joke? Heat dissipation is not an issue in conduit. Smh
So many people continue to spread this myth throughout the internet. Wish it would die
Also if the conduit is large enough you most certainly can pull another thru.
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