Adding overhead garage light...

[letterman52]

So I have a small 4 foot panel light in the center of my garage. I would like to upgrade that panel to something large like the double panels they sell that lowes. No big deal right? Well I would also like to take the existing 4'' light and put it over my desk/working area in the garage about 7 feet diagonal away. My questions is can I just piggy tail off the existing 4'' light wiring and use romax up and over in the ceiling to provide power for the move of the 4'' over my desk? I hope that makes sense. Anyways.... Oh and this shouldn't need any kind of permit or anything in Ca right? Be gentle. lol. I'll take some pics if you'll want..

 

[Steevo]

If you can run Romex (14/2 w/ground) out the back of the box that services the existing light, staple it to the rafter(s) and run it to where you want a second light, add a box there and bring the romex in through the back of the box, you can wire-nut the two black & whits wires together at the original location, crimp the ground wires, and all is to code, providing you don't have so many other receptacles on the same circuit that it is already overloaded.

 

[letterman52]

Perfect. That is what I was hoping to hear. The ceiling is finished though so any ideas how how to staple the romax to the rafters? It is a 2 story house without a crawl space in between the floors. If I just use conduit can I run the romax on the outside of the drywall?

 

[MrMark]

Permit? Well, yes, you technically need a permit. Does anyone get one for that? Well, no.

 

[letterman52]

So the only idea I have on how to run the romax behind the drywall of the finished ceiling was to cut a hole large enough to poke my head in. It would be where the new double panel light would cover it up. Then just cut another small square above my work bench where the old 4'' light would cover it up. Ghetto right.......Please chime in if you can think of a better way. I am going to go take some pics...

 

[Steevo]

So, if you want to snake the romex over the top of the drywall in the inaccessible space, you can do that. Technically, it will not be stapled within the required distance of a box, nor along its run, but that in itself won't cause any harm.
As for surface mounted inside the garage, you can put run conduit from the end of the new fixture to where you want to re-use the old one, and pull 14ga wires through it. Not romex though, just individual wires.

 

[letterman52]

 

[letterman52]

The area above the work bench.

 

[letterman52]

I know the pics aren't the best, but it gives you a good idea of what I am talking about. So what would be the best way to snake the wires/romax across the roof into the new area.

 

[letterman52]

Here are some pics to show what is under the drywall on the ceiling. They were taken as the house was built.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/letterman52/078.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/letterman52/080.jpg

 

[Steevo]

It looks to me like that light is wired using surface mounted wiremold raceway, not powered from a box behind it.

 

[letterman52]

I'm not real sure what surface mounted wiremold raceway is, but on the backside of the outlet for the garage door you can see where the light gets it power. The original light was just a little 1' light. I upgraded that to a 4' light. It was super easy and the wires were just right there. The problem I am seeing now that I look at the construction pics is that the beams going over the work area are going to making fishing the wire pretty difficult. Ideas?

 

[letterman52]

Anyone else?

 

[neverenoughtools]

It looks to me like that light is wired using surface mounted wiremold raceway, not powered from a box behind it.

It appears that way to be as well....

 

[Interex]

I'm not real sure what surface mounted wiremold raceway is, but on the backside of the outlet for the garage door you can see where the light gets it power. The original light was just a little 1' light. I upgraded that to a 4' light. It was super easy and the wires were just right there. The problem I am seeing now that I look at the construction pics is that the beams going over the work area are going to making fishing the wire pretty difficult. Ideas?

Surface wiremold is simply a plastic channel with a sticky back that is used to hide wiring when you can't run it behind walls. If you don't have access into the attic area, you'll either need to run more of that wiremold to the work area or cut an access hole in the ceiling and run your wires from the current fixture to the work area.

 

[Interex]

Looking at this picture:

It looks like you could fish your wires up above the work area box and into the area that you have your rafters and eventually to the existing light fixture.. This can be accomplished with just drilling your 4" j-box hole and using fish tape. It's going to be tricky but it can be done.

Since you've already got the wiremold, it may be easier for you to just run more of it to the work area.

 

[Jayincali]

Sorry for the stupid question, as electrical isn't my strong point. Can you run romex above the ceiling and just lay the wire on the insulation?

 

[Interex]

Sorry for the stupid question, as electrical isn't my strong point. Can you run romex above the ceiling and just lay the wire on the insulation?

You can lay romex on insulation, no problem.

 

[qubit]

I've been waiting for an excuse to show off how I solved my problem: no access to the top side of the garage ceiling without cutting a head-sized hole to see if I could run wiring for multiple fluorescents, then trying to hide that hole. I also didn't want PVC or EMT conduit on the surface.

Being a hotrodder by default, I took the high-zoot route. I used 1/2" PVC electrical conduit, but covered it in braided sleeving from Spectre Performance and used their 'hose ends'. I've since replaced the EMT clamps with the proper Adel (cushioned) clamps for a functional look.

 

[letterman52]

Interesting.... I am pretty sure I am just going to run conduit on the outside if the wall.

 

[gatchel]

Finally!
I've been waiting for the opportunity to show off how I solved my problem of no access to the top side of the garage ceiling without cutting a head-sized hole to see if I could run wiring for multiple fluorescents, then trying to hide that hole. I also didn't want PVC or EMT conduit on the surface.

Being a hotrodder by default, I took the high-zoot route. I've since replaced the EMT clamps with the proper Adel (cushioned) clamps for a functional look.

It makes me smile every time I look at it.

Are AN fittings and steel braided line an approved raceway?

 

[letterman52]

You can lay romex on insulation, no problem.

Thanks for all the feedback "Interex". I somehow missed your responses. The raceway stuff is only hiding the security system power cord. I'm going to try what you suggested above the workspace. If it doesn't work at least I have the raceway to fall back on.

 

[Racerx88]

I used 1/2" PVC electrical conduit, but covered it in braided sleeving from Spectre Performance and used their 'hose ends'.

Isn't 1/2" PVC electrical conduit an approved raceway?

 

[Zick]

I've been waiting for an excuse to show off how I solved my problem: no access to the top side of the garage ceiling without cutting a head-sized hole to see if I could run wiring for multiple fluorescents, then trying to hide that hole. I also didn't want PVC or EMT conduit on the surface.

Being a hotrodder by default, I took the high-zoot route. I used 1/2" PVC electrical conduit, but covered it in braided sleeving from Spectre Performance and used their 'hose ends'. I've since replaced the EMT clamps with the proper Adel (cushioned) clamps for a functional look.

That's cool!