To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

adding some power to my garage

ed_v

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 15, 2007
Messages
1,418
Location
Kentucky
Thinking of adding a 240v outlet and possibly a couple of 120v outlets to my attached garage. I live in a townhome. There is is plenty of space on my panel to do so. My panel is about 30ft from my garage.

Do you think the inspector will let me run bx from my panel to a JB in the garage? I will then wall mount the hard conduit from the JB to the outlets. I always hear things are a little iffy when it comes to bx

the code which they follow is located here under the chapter 9 section 2:

http://www.sterlingcodifiers.com/codebook/index.php?book_id=392

thanks.
Ed
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,754
Thinking of adding a 240v outlet and possibly a couple of 120v outlets to my attached garage. I live in a townhome. There is is plenty of space on my panel to do so. My panel is about 30ft from my garage.

Do you think the inspector will let me run bx from my panel to a JB in the garage? I will then wall mount the hard conduit from the JB to the outlets. I always hear things are a little iffy when it comes to bx

the code which they follow is located here under the chapter 9 section 2:

http://www.sterlingcodifiers.com/codebook/index.php?book_id=392

thanks.
Ed

. Subsection 300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage:

Insert subsection 300.4(G):

All conductors and cables shall be run in electrical metallic tubing or rigid heavy-wall conduit in areas that are not accessible or in areas that may be subject to physical damage.
(Ord. 2008-4, 2-21-2008)

Being your in the Chicago area, they have the reputation for frowning on flexible wiring methods your limited to pipe & wire as confirmed by that local ordnance.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Sparks4184

Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2010
Messages
15
Location
Northern California
It's not just the voltage, it's a question of how many amps you need in your garage. That, in turn, will determine the size of your feed cable. And, what I would do if I were you, since parts are pretty cheap, is avoid MC (metallic clad) cable on the feed even if it was sized correctly, and use pipe, thin wall conduit. You can buy all sorts of fittings to make bends and turns out of and don't really need to worry so much about putting things like "hickey bends" to boxes.

Run a small sub-panel. Do a separate circuit for lighting in case you trip a 110 outlet breaker, separate your devices like compressor on a dedicated circuit and size those conductors properly as well. I'd make your branch circuits for tools 20 AMP and use 12 gauge romex unless the wiring is exposed to damage. Then MC cable with appropriate fittings is fine but that stuff is REALLY pricey.

Size your current load properly first then plan a bit for the future leaving at least a couple of spares. Then double check the Chicago code (and whether your local inspector has any kids in college) <G> BTW, you can always take the building inspector office a rough drawing of what you're proposing to do noting the circuit #, what size it's going to be and the type of panel and branch circuits. If you bring the current draw per proposed device, they'll probably help you size the circuits properly and derate them according to the code.
I'm sure you know already, but for my own peace of mind, remember: If you do this right, you'll sleep much better at night.;>)
Mark
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom