Johnnys Shop
Active member
Hey So I plan on making the call this coming week to hopefully add 20ft to my existing work shop.
The work shop is 24x26 with 8x26 housing my office, lumber, semi finished projects, files, plans and draft table. the other 16x26 is my full time wood shop (7 days a week 14hrs + daily). It was built in 2008 with radiant floor heating and 8ft ceiling.
I would like to add 20x24 to the front. there is a 8x12ft shed on the front for lumber storage that will be removed. and it is graveled where the addition would be with left over from the foundation. and I hope the slope is gentle enough that I can just rake it flat then add sand and pack.
I live in the country so no worries of bylaws and so forth.
What I would like to do.
1 pour additional pad for the new addition. Any problems pouring right against existing pad?
2 hook up the radiant flooring system. the boiler I have is good for 4000-4500 sq-ft I think. well over 2000 anyways. So can I run lines along the ceiling and down into the new pad? as the Entrance door is on the same wall as the boiler. might I need to add a second thermostat for the new pad? any other problems that might arise? can I just add 2 more lines to the manifold as I probably should have 2 sections?
3 I want to make the additions ceiling 10' or 12' tall as I can not help but hit the ceiling with plywood or 2x4s. the Roof is shingled. I will have to cut the gable end off and either add a wall on top of the existing rafter or build a new wall flush with the existing wall minus a 8ft opening to tie into my existing shop. The shop originally had 16 foot roll up but I hardly used it. and almost impossible to keep completely sealed. So I removed the door put in a 8ft filler wall fully supporting the header and made 2 -4ft swing out doors fully insulated. So a 2x10 doubled up header already exists.
4 I would like to put a wood floor on top of the cement to help with my arthritis in the new section. I have anti fatigue mats in my current shop but makes it hard to impossible to roll tools around. So what problems might I run into? Can I rip 3/4 strips of plywood for airspace and then put the floor on that? Moisture is not a problem, my current floor is very dry no concern putting wood directly on it. I would assume the addition would be the same.
added notes.
I put down a moisture barrier and 1.5 or 2 inch Styrofoam under the cement. the cement poured on existing pad was 8-9 on the edges and around 6 in the center. way deeper then needed but only one hairline crack. it was that deep because of the forms used and the contractor did not tell me so a 1200.00 floor became 2000.00. Anyways does adding Styrofoam on the outside of the pad help? is 2 inches sufficient or is thicker required to make a difference? I am asking for personal experience here as Radiant floor heating was suppose to be super efficient it takes about 1.5x 500 gallon propane tanks to heat for the winter with a high efficiency boiler.
No Garage door, I plan on putting some windows in from the local reuse center spending all day in a shop with two tiny windows ***** and add wide or maybe double man door. It cost $19,000 to build and fully finish the original building with some of that going to a contractor who helped build. I hope the addition will be under $8000. I built a 16x16 cabin with 6ft deck for $5000 last year $8000 if you include the pellet stove.
The current shop has vinyl siding but I plan on the addition having vertical rough cut clap board that I get for free. I do not care that they do not match.
The work shop is 24x26 with 8x26 housing my office, lumber, semi finished projects, files, plans and draft table. the other 16x26 is my full time wood shop (7 days a week 14hrs + daily). It was built in 2008 with radiant floor heating and 8ft ceiling.
I would like to add 20x24 to the front. there is a 8x12ft shed on the front for lumber storage that will be removed. and it is graveled where the addition would be with left over from the foundation. and I hope the slope is gentle enough that I can just rake it flat then add sand and pack.
I live in the country so no worries of bylaws and so forth.
What I would like to do.
1 pour additional pad for the new addition. Any problems pouring right against existing pad?
2 hook up the radiant flooring system. the boiler I have is good for 4000-4500 sq-ft I think. well over 2000 anyways. So can I run lines along the ceiling and down into the new pad? as the Entrance door is on the same wall as the boiler. might I need to add a second thermostat for the new pad? any other problems that might arise? can I just add 2 more lines to the manifold as I probably should have 2 sections?
3 I want to make the additions ceiling 10' or 12' tall as I can not help but hit the ceiling with plywood or 2x4s. the Roof is shingled. I will have to cut the gable end off and either add a wall on top of the existing rafter or build a new wall flush with the existing wall minus a 8ft opening to tie into my existing shop. The shop originally had 16 foot roll up but I hardly used it. and almost impossible to keep completely sealed. So I removed the door put in a 8ft filler wall fully supporting the header and made 2 -4ft swing out doors fully insulated. So a 2x10 doubled up header already exists.
4 I would like to put a wood floor on top of the cement to help with my arthritis in the new section. I have anti fatigue mats in my current shop but makes it hard to impossible to roll tools around. So what problems might I run into? Can I rip 3/4 strips of plywood for airspace and then put the floor on that? Moisture is not a problem, my current floor is very dry no concern putting wood directly on it. I would assume the addition would be the same.
added notes.
I put down a moisture barrier and 1.5 or 2 inch Styrofoam under the cement. the cement poured on existing pad was 8-9 on the edges and around 6 in the center. way deeper then needed but only one hairline crack. it was that deep because of the forms used and the contractor did not tell me so a 1200.00 floor became 2000.00. Anyways does adding Styrofoam on the outside of the pad help? is 2 inches sufficient or is thicker required to make a difference? I am asking for personal experience here as Radiant floor heating was suppose to be super efficient it takes about 1.5x 500 gallon propane tanks to heat for the winter with a high efficiency boiler.
No Garage door, I plan on putting some windows in from the local reuse center spending all day in a shop with two tiny windows ***** and add wide or maybe double man door. It cost $19,000 to build and fully finish the original building with some of that going to a contractor who helped build. I hope the addition will be under $8000. I built a 16x16 cabin with 6ft deck for $5000 last year $8000 if you include the pellet stove.
The current shop has vinyl siding but I plan on the addition having vertical rough cut clap board that I get for free. I do not care that they do not match.
