Adjusting the garage door question

[MajorLeeGassole]

I have a standard 16' door that sometimes blows back from the door frame under heavy winds. I wanted to adjust the door so it stays flush, but the installer has so many nuts and bolts already hitting each other, it would almost be impossible to get all the tracks adjusted.

I pulled on each section of door where the wheeled hinge goes to the track. Some have almost no play, some have 1/2". So, could I simply remove those wheeled hinges and put some washers in as spacers to get the door to sit flush? Again, the installation of this door makes moving the tracks a nightmare.

Thanks!

 

[SARG]

I would move the seals tight to the door rather than attempting to modify the door.

 

[MajorLeeGassole]

I was planning on redoing those as well. They were out of stock the last time I was out. I guess everyone is sealing up tight for this winter. I'll see how the door is once I replcae them. Thanks for mentioning!

 

[LB-1911]

I have a standard 16' door that sometimes blows back from the door frame under heavy winds. I wanted to adjust the door so it stays flush, but the installer has so many nuts and bolts already hitting each other, it would almost be impossible to get all the tracks adjusted.

I pulled on each section of door where the wheeled hinge goes to the track. Some have almost no play, some have 1/2". So, could I simply remove those wheeled hinges and put some washers in as spacers to get the door to sit flush? Again, the installation of this door makes moving the tracks a nightmare.

Thanks!

May want to give these a look

Sealing Overhead Garage Doors - Green Hinge System

Previous thread
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233702

 

[MajorLeeGassole]

I've never seen those before. They look pretty effective. Thanks!

 

[upndown]

The track brackets on the vertical tracks should have a slot for in and out adjustments. The only other adjustment would be your top fixtures. I'd try that first before buying new hinges.

 

[MajorLeeGassole]

The track brackets on the vertical tracks should have a slot for in and out adjustments. The only other adjustment would be your top fixtures. I'd try that first before buying new hinges.

The vertical ones are easy, it's the top tracks that are all messed up. The installer has it so almost all the nuts and bolts are already hitting one another and I would probably have to move the torsion spring too - that ain't happening.

 

[upndown]

I guess I don't understand why you would have to move the torsion assy! If there's gaps at the top section, that's what the adjustable top fixtures are for. Maybe a pic would help.

 

[MajorLeeGassole]

I don't have pics right now, but let me just say that everything, including the mounting plate for the torsion bar, is butted up against one another, including the nuts and bolts. There are no gaps.

 

[Streetbu]

I used spacers behind the hinges, just some thick plastic washers I had easy access to. Worked perfectly for me. I too have severe winds at times. So much that I had to install a reinforcing bar on each one of my panels.

 

[gnpenning]

Sounds like you have different issue's here. Anything mounted above the door will not stop the door from sealing (or shouldn't). The stand off brackets and top roller bracket will help you adjust the door to seal. Cheap doors with no struts and improper framing will add to this problem.

The spring shaft and bearing plates being off will cause other problems. some pictures would be a huge help.

I would not recommend adding washers or shims behind the hinges. Your just putting a band aid on that will cause other problems down the road. The problem needs to be fixed. AS upndown mentioned adjust the stand off brackets and top roller. A lot easier and faster to do besides being the correct thing.

 

[Streetbu]

My stand off brackets were all riveted. Not your standard rivets either, but machine rivets and several in each bracket. I'm not spending a whole day removing brackets, grinding rivets, reinstalling and moving to the next one just so I can start what originally needed to be done.

 

[pablo94sc]

If the door isn't being pushed up against the frame, or at least being snugged against the seal, you may just need to change the roller hinges on the edges from say 2 to 3, 3 to 4, etc to get the seal you want. The top bracket is fixed but the roller is adjustable on the bracket. If it doesn't quite seal, there may be the need for washers or track adjustment since I don't recall seeing different size brackets for sale.

 

[gnpenning]

Moving brackets up 1 number will move the door farther away from the wall, and make the problem worse.

If you have riveted top roller brackets, just buy adjustable ones.