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Adjustment garage door?

wout

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2013
Messages
786
Location
Belgium
Hi

A few years back I ordered 3 garage doors for my garage. Ordered them online from the same firm my neighbour bought his so it wasn't a blind choise :). Long story short, the guy who mounted the doors had a bad day (I assume) and the doors where mounted very badly. Nothing was alligned properly and after many complains a few adjustments were made but far from fine :(. So after 2 years or so one motor failed cause of the bad allignement (burned motor). Bought a new motor from another brand and kept the burned motor for spare parts.

Few days back another door didn't respond anymore. Did a general reset (current off and on again) but didn't helped. Deleted the memory and relearned the codes. It worked for a few days but stopped working once again. It's like it forget it's codes. Self testing mode works but it doesn't respond to the radio control. So I changed the electronics from the spare one and relearned the curve and radio controls. Everything works but now I can't get the door closed completely. In self learning modus the door closes well but in normal opperation it closes and then opens 5cm or so. Did another selflearning and again it was all fine but not in normal use.

So looking for advise to maybe adjust it or other things I can try?

Thanks in advance!

gr
Wout
 

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gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
If you really are in Belgium and by the looks of that opener it's different than most of what we see in my part of the states. Who's the manufacturer of the opener? The first thing you should always do with a door issue is release the opener and open and close the door by hand. If it doesn't work smoothly and isn't balanced properly your opener can't correctly do it's job and may self destruct prematurely. Lowhead room (LHR)doors, which is what you have, never open as smooth as a door with a longer radius track. Keep in mind the only thing the opener does is replace your arm opening and closing the door. If you have to work at it so is your opener.

We have some models that will do that and generally it's the absolute encoder that is bad.

The top panel should have a strut going from one side of the door to the other. Most doors without struts over time will fatigue the metal and bend/rip the metal in the center of the door. Also if the door catches on anything it will taco the top panel.
 
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wout

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2013
Messages
786
Location
Belgium
If you really are in Belgium and by the looks of that opener it's different than most of what we see in my part of the states. Who's the manufacturer of the opener? The first thing you should always do with a door issue is release the opener and open and close the door by hand. If it doesn't work smoothly and isn't balanced properly your opener can't correctly do it's job and may self destruct prematurely. Lowhead room (LHR)doors, which is what you have, never open as smooth as a door with a longer radius track. Keep in mind the only thing the opener does is replace your arm opening and closing the door. If you have to work at it so is your opener.

We have some models that will do that and generally it's the absolute encoder that is bad.

The top panel should have a strut going from one side of the door to the other. Most doors without struts over time will fatigue the metal and bend/rip the metal in the center of the door. Also if the door catches on anything it will taco the top panel.

Thanks for the advise! The door worked fine with the other encoder so think mechanical it's all ok (or as good as can be with the poor installation :(). Strange thing is that the door closes fine and stays properly closed in 'education' mode but in normal use it closes (pushes against the wall) and then releases the pressure a bit so the top panel opens 5cm or so.
Automation is from 'King Gates', I know it's not as good as for example 'Faac' or 'Hormann' but it should work. Works already many years failless for my neighbours door and he uses it far more often then I do...

I know there's a different in what here called 'domestic' and 'industrial' doors. Industrial only have 1 rail where all pannels run and the domestic ones have 2 so the top pannel runs in 2 different rails.

gr
Wout
 

gnpenning

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Jan 25, 2015
Messages
2,754
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I have more questions than answers.
Hopefully someone with experience with that brand of opener will check in. I don't have any experience with that brand. Does it have adjustment screws for travel limits? Sounds like it has a learn button for limits.

The brands you mentioned wouldn't be common here.

Does the manufacturer have a technical support line you can call?
 
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wout

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Dec 26, 2013
Messages
786
Location
Belgium
Don't think it's a well known brand and not top quality. It has mechanical stops you can adjust but that's not the problem imo cause in learning mode it works fine.

No idea about a technical support line but the firm who sold and installed the doors is rubbisch and not reliable at all. Internet is full of bad experience with that firm. Unfortunately I didn't knew when I ordered the doors cause my neighbour was satesfied with his door for a few years already.

Made some pictures of the manual about the selflearning modus and radiocontrol programming.

Thanks in advance!

gr
Wout
 

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Hot Rod Grampa

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Near Cooperstown New York
When adjusting travel limits, try stopping the door a couple of mm short of where you really want it. Most openers have a safety mode for when it encounters an obstacle in the downward travel. That feature is disabled the last 1 1/2" to make sure the door closes tight. It sounds like your mechanical limits are off just enough that the safety kicks in. Also be sure to clear all codes before starting the process. On some stubborn units we had to clear units several times before they would accept new inputs.
 
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wout

Well-known member
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Dec 26, 2013
Messages
786
Location
Belgium
When adjusting travel limits, try stopping the door a couple of mm short of where you really want it. Most openers have a safety mode for when it encounters an obstacle in the downward travel. That feature is disabled the last 1 1/2" to make sure the door closes tight. It sounds like your mechanical limits are off just enough that the safety kicks in. Also be sure to clear all codes before starting the process. On some stubborn units we had to clear units several times before they would accept new inputs.

Thanks! Will try so.
Already tried to put the mechanical limit a bit before but will try again.

gr
Wout
 
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wout

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Messages
786
Location
Belgium
Today the 'new' electronics forgot it's code to. Hardware reset restored it, for now. Think I'll have to order a complete new system from a good brand now...

gr
Wout
 
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wout

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Messages
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Location
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Bit the bullet and replaced all the units by Faac automations. Wasn’t cheap and could have bought a lot of tools from that money but now I’m sure the gates will work when needed.

Gr
Wout
 

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