The maximum size the my city will let me build is 800 sq ft. I want to build a new 4 car garage. I am thinking of 40 ft wide X 20 ft deep (instead of a tandem garage), so I can get cars in and out easier. It will be finished and heated. I will prep one or or two of the bays with a high cieling for future hoise/ car stackers. Any advisc on tips for the design and build would be appreciated. I plan to start 3-1-09 and have it done by 4-1-09.
Advice needed for new 4 car garage
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rickairmedic
Well-known member
Personally if I only had 800 Square feet I would go 32' wide by 25' deep and put a lift in one of the bays to store the 4th car. My current garage is 20' deep and working on a full sized truck or larger car is a pain becouse I put cabinets across the back wall which means if my 63 ford unibody truck is in the garage there is no getting around it with the overhead door shut since it is 18' long and with the cabinets it barely fits.
Rick
Rick
5wndwcpe
Well-known member
I concur. Most of my cars are 17' long. The garage I knocked down was 22' deep and with a workbench against the backwall, it was tight.
The Alchemist
Well-known member
I agree with what's been posted. Considering if you need to work on the engine bay of any full size vehicle, only 20' deep is tight. I like the idea of 24x32, which is 768 sq/ft. The extra 4 feet deep will make life so much easier doing any work. The extra two feet on the width will make it a little easier opening doors as well. And like was mentioned, get a 4 post lift for storing the 4th car.
cletus66
Well-known member
It is time to move to another place. Problem solved. 
Dogberry01
Well-known member
I also agree with tool box or work bench on back wall will not leave much room. Go deeper.
Shocker
Well-known member
I have the same restrictions here in my town. I ended up going with a 32w x 24d shop. 764 sqft.
My reasoning for going a bit less that I could have was construction costs. Less labor to build up based on the 8ft multiplier. Full sheets of T1-11 etc.
Not sure if I saved much by going this route, but go with the deeper shop for sure. 20' just ain't gonna cut it.
Do you have any height restrictions? I am assuming it is 14 or 16 feet at the peak. I would make sure you go with a scissor truss to give you the added height.
My roof is a 4/12 pitch with 10 foot walls and my peak height is about 15 feet.
My reasoning for going a bit less that I could have was construction costs. Less labor to build up based on the 8ft multiplier. Full sheets of T1-11 etc.
Not sure if I saved much by going this route, but go with the deeper shop for sure. 20' just ain't gonna cut it.
Do you have any height restrictions? I am assuming it is 14 or 16 feet at the peak. I would make sure you go with a scissor truss to give you the added height.
My roof is a 4/12 pitch with 10 foot walls and my peak height is about 15 feet.
toadjammer
Well-known member
Longer is better I can't easily get around my 2 largest cars in my 20' deep garage. I don't put any box on the back wall, because of length problems. They are always on the side. I don't move mine around at all either.
rsanter
Well-known member
if you are only going the 764 sq ft then I would recomend a 'bump out' on one side that you can use as a compressor room or storage closet
bob
bob
sam 8
Well-known member
x3 on Rick. This makes the space as usable as you can within the restrictions you are under. If you are going to be there for a few years, it is the way to go even though the labor will be more.
After you get your final, adding a compressor shed after a compressor pad on a back corner will save you space and noise inside.
After you get your final, adding a compressor shed after a compressor pad on a back corner will save you space and noise inside.
700807
Member
apply for a variance. My city said i could only build a 670sq ft shop. I put in an variance request and will find out tuesday if i can build a 1120 sq ft shop. One member of the commision board said it should not be a problem.
Lookin4'67Galaxieconv
Well-known member
Same here, I had a 32 X 24 garage built in '07. Before I found my house, I figured if I ever bought one with an attached garage, I'd want it at least 22 X 22. Those extra two feet make a HUGE difference.
I was over at some guy's house looking at something he was selling awhile back, and he had one of those generic houses with a "2 car garage" While it technically was, he had everything in there jammed in b/c it was about 20X20and he had to use every inch of space. Don't let this happen to you! I'd think about going 36 X 22 if I was you.
Shocker
Well-known member
My thoughts exactly! I will be adding a "carport" to one side and enclosing the entire back section (about 7 feet wide x 32 feet long) for compressor, woodcutting etc. Should be interesting.
Fiberglass Fred
Well-known member
Does it have to be a rectangle? Chances are you aren't going to be working on 2 cars at the same time, right?
You could always do 4 bays where one was a bit deeper, to provide work space, and the other 3 bays were just enough to store your cars. (like the right picture).
Or, you could just do your 20x40, and include a porch on the back. Then convert the porch to work space after the inspections are done. If they don't let you do a porch, then see about having a big sofet (overhang) on the back. It'd make it very easy to convert to shop space later. And if you frame up a door back there, then there won't be any structural change when you add on. (like the left picture). All I know is if they don't count the porch as part of the 800sqft, I'd put on a huge porch back there.
You could always do 4 bays where one was a bit deeper, to provide work space, and the other 3 bays were just enough to store your cars. (like the right picture).
Or, you could just do your 20x40, and include a porch on the back. Then convert the porch to work space after the inspections are done. If they don't let you do a porch, then see about having a big sofet (overhang) on the back. It'd make it very easy to convert to shop space later. And if you frame up a door back there, then there won't be any structural change when you add on. (like the left picture). All I know is if they don't count the porch as part of the 800sqft, I'd put on a huge porch back there.
rinny_tin_tin
Well-known member
Can you go down and/or up on that same footprint?
Old Moparz
Well-known member
Get as much depth as you can without giving up too much width. The depth of 20 feet is okay as a parking space only, but if you want to stand indoors at the front or rear it'll be tight. I planned a 3 car shop with a large work area, but I was able to fit 4 cars inside before I got my two 4 post lifts. (There's 5 inside now)
The foot print of my garage is staggered at the rear wall. The reason is because my property line is on an angle in the back & the distribution pipe for my septic is in the front. I have 3 different depths on mine, 20.5', 22.5', & 24.5' & the width is 36' across. The total square footage is at 810. The extra 6" on each depth was because I could still meet my setbacks & bigger is always better in a garage....LOL
Original Layout Prior to Lifts:
I've since installed two 4 post lifts, one for storage & one to use for work. The 20.5' depth on the far left is adequate for storage, but sometimes the 24.5' seems shallow depending on the work you're doing.
The foot print of my garage is staggered at the rear wall. The reason is because my property line is on an angle in the back & the distribution pipe for my septic is in the front. I have 3 different depths on mine, 20.5', 22.5', & 24.5' & the width is 36' across. The total square footage is at 810. The extra 6" on each depth was because I could still meet my setbacks & bigger is always better in a garage....LOL
Original Layout Prior to Lifts:
I've since installed two 4 post lifts, one for storage & one to use for work. The 20.5' depth on the far left is adequate for storage, but sometimes the 24.5' seems shallow depending on the work you're doing.
autoist
MEMBER EMERITUS
Whatever size you finalize on, mae the interior wals 12' high & put a 12x12 roof on it - clear span so you can do a 2nd floor under part of it or a balcony.
Rosco
Well-known member
I have the same restrictions. I built a 26X30 (fit the lot best) with 10' cielings and a 11/12 pitch roof. I have a 18'X30' bonus room upstairs with two 8' wide dormers. It is large for my lot, but within zoning/covenants/code.
Attachments
dipper
Well-known member
Rosco - Nice looking place you got there!
I like Fred's idea of making one bay a little deeper, and make it the biggest they will let you, you can save on some things or spread the cost out later once the shell is up. I was going to have to get a variance for my 24x24, but the footprint was too big for the lot, so I ended up at 20x22 and didn't have to get a variance (was able to start construction at least 1 month earlier). The 20x22 fit my lot better anyway cause the 24 width really took up more of the backyard than we wanted.
I like Fred's idea of making one bay a little deeper, and make it the biggest they will let you, you can save on some things or spread the cost out later once the shell is up. I was going to have to get a variance for my 24x24, but the footprint was too big for the lot, so I ended up at 20x22 and didn't have to get a variance (was able to start construction at least 1 month earlier). The 20x22 fit my lot better anyway cause the 24 width really took up more of the backyard than we wanted.