Advice Needed - Is this a good compressor?

[iusamson]

Seeking advice: I've been searching for the perfect compressor - wasn't in any hurry - I just want the right one. This is going to sit in my attached garage so i wanted a small horizontal compressor, but with enough power to run air tools and blow the sprinklers out. I eventually may want to run a sandblaster for a short while (but this isn't a requirement). Quietness is prized (attached garage, no options for outside) so I was following the general advice I've read on here that the older pumps that run slower (but maybe a little larger) would likely fit the bill

I found a Curtis model 95 2-stage compressor on craiglist that i'm going to look ($425), and wanted to know if this will work for me, isn't an awful deal. I will get to hear it run. Is there anything else I should check for on this? Some google searches brought up a few references to this compressor but not a whole lot more.

The ad goes into a bit of detail - i thas a 5 HP marathon motor; he got it from a family friend, and the oil is and was changed every year; the tank is about a 35 gallon capacity; The intake silencer and air filter are relatively new; the switch, wiring, and power cord are also new. It has been honed and re-ringed at least once in it's past (likely by his family friend before him).

Thank you in advance,
Josh Samson

 

[u2slow]

Nice find

35gal is a lot better than 20 - and much better if it's at a higher pressure (say 150-175psi) and it should be as a 2-stage. Be aware it could be an amalgamation of parts. Most 5hp electrics come with a 50/60/80gal tank.

Some will say 5hp motor needs to be hard-wired. Personally, I can resist the urge to unplug it under load.

 

[sberry]

It's pretty close to 5. It needs a guard. Probably a fair deal. If you are going to sand much it will be hard to manage the cycling, the nut is small and will likely recharge fast. Those are mechanics compressors, not body and paint.

 

[Wrench97]

The motor is probably a replacement which is ok, the compressor itself is decent and the noise level should be manageable at rated 1750 rpm speed.

 

[Jswain]

As long as the tank isn't rotten it's an OK deal if the motor and pump are in good shape. Probably nice and quiet at 1750rpm with the silencers on the pump. Should probably change the pulley on the motor to at least accommodate 2 belts. If it's a 175psi unit make sure it actually comes up to full pressure and he doesn't have it turned down to say 90psi to hide a problem. Also make sure the tank is rated for the same pressure as the pump.

Looks kind of Frankenstein but if you're ok with that and it runs good then it would be all the compressor you would need for now, and if you start sandblasting you could add a 60 gallon tank for more storage.

If it's 0-175psi @ 35 gallons & 18cfm it should take 3mins & 5 secs to fill. Time it to ensure its not way out of wack use this website for different pressures
https://www.airgastech.com/resources/calculators.html#pump-up-calculator

Also maybe look and see if valve kits/rings are still available online because of you need one in a few years and can't find one you'll regret your purchase

 

[iusamson]

It's pretty close to 5. It needs a guard. Probably a fair deal. If you are going to sand much it will be hard to manage the cycling, the nut is small and will likely recharge fast. Those are mechanics compressors, not body and paint.

If i were to sand much i'll bring in a reserve tank with the sandblaster. My dad is has a nice 80 gallon reserve tank that I imagine I can have in the next 5-10 years as he does less restorations. Coincidentally the sandblaster would come at the same time.

 

[sberry]

A bigger jug helps a little with sandblast but mostly sanding tools.

 

[iusamson]

As long as the tank isn't rotten it's an OK deal if the motor and pump are in good shape. Probably nice and quiet at 1750rpm with the silencers on the pump. Should probably change the pulley on the motor to at least accommodate 2 belts. If it's a 175psi unit make sure it actually comes up to full pressure and he doesn't have it turned down to say 90psi to hide a problem. Also make sure the tank is rated for the same pressure as the pump.

Looks kind of Frankenstein but if you're ok with that and it runs good then it would be all the compressor you would need for now, and if you start sandblasting you could add a 60 gallon tank for more storage.

If it's 0-175psi @ 35 gallons & 18cfm it should take 3mins & 5 secs to fill. Time it to ensure its not way out of wack use this website for different pressures
https://www.airgastech.com/resources/calculators.html#pump-up-calculator

Also maybe look and see if valve kits/rings are still available online because of you need one in a few years and can't find one you'll regret your purchase

From what I've read, the pump actually came on that 35 gallon tank originally. Is that what you're considering "frankenstein"? Just trying to understand! I attached a picture of the tag on the tank.

I'm going to call Curtis tomorrow to see about the rebuild kits - the availability is part of my concern as well.

Two more questions -

1. What's the value of the double belt? Is it more efficient?
2. When you're referencing 175PSI - it looks like the tank can take it (from the pic, and assuming good condition) - but will there be something on the pump I need to confirm?

Thanks for all of the advice, everyone -
Josh

 

[iusamson]

In one of my searches, I also found someone had posted the attached screenshots. It seems the 4-3/16" 2 stage "W-959" is what i'm looking at...

 

[Jswain]

From what I've read, the pump actually came on that 35 gallon tank originally. Is that what you're considering "frankenstein"? Just trying to understand! I attached a picture of the tag on the tank

Yes I honestly thought maybe he pieced that together but perhaps it is original. Being from 1942 I would give the tank a serious look over especially underneath & make sure there is no welding/grinding/leaking etc. and probably have a look in an inspection port, I'm sure it's built like a tank but 78 years is a long time.

I would only pay what I was comfortable paying if I also had to replace the tank as well, and that's if the pump sounds okay & fills that tank to 175psi in ~ 3mins

For the belts it looks like the pump itself has 3 grooves and the motor has 1. To make full pressure without slipping it may need more then that

 

[BD1]

I agree the tank would be my concern. Many old tanks get pin holes in them. Definitely check the lowest length of tank.
Have you considered new ??

https://www.ruralking.com/air-compr...MIzfmDpNfA7AIVEPDACh1RBQpCEAQYBiABEgK5QfD_BwE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[iusamson]

I agree the tank would be my concern. Many old tanks get pin holes in them. Definitely check the lowest length of tank.
Have you considered new ??

https://www.ruralking.com/air-compr...MIzfmDpNfA7AIVEPDACh1RBQpCEAQYBiABEgK5QfD_BwE


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah - I’ve considered new - I just don’t want to buy junk - and frankly I don’t really use air enough to justify $1k price tag on the nicer/quieter/longer lasting compressors (like what you linked). The ~$400 price tag on this seemed reasonable for what I was getting.

It sounds like the general consensus is to skip this, or purchase for basically nothing and replace the tank immediately. I was planning to bring a borescope and look inside the tank for major rust issues - but this group (and an internet search or exploding compressor tanks) are putting enough fear in me to make me think twice.

I did sent an email to Curtis asking about the rebuild kit availability - that will play into my decision as well....


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[stickshift]

I was planning to bring a borescope and look inside the tank for major rust issues

We know with certainty that there will be rust. Just no way around it on a tank that old. The difficulty is differentiating between a level of of rust that will allow the tank to last another decade or more with proper maintenance and a level of rust that makes it likely to develop a pinhole in the next year of use. I'd be surprised if a $30 borescope is going to let you make that determination with confidence.

I like the earlier suggestion of paying what it's worth to you if you had to replace the tank.

I wouldn't worry too much about an explosion. Seems much, much more likely that it will develop a pinhole than explode, provided the overpressure valve is working properly and the tank wasn't repaired at some point (which is how I suspect most tank explosions happen).

 

[pepi]

We know with certainty that there will be rust. Just no way around it on a tank that old. The difficulty is differentiating between a level of of rust that will allow the tank to last another decade or more with proper maintenance and a level of rust that makes it likely to develop a pinhole in the next year of use. I'd be surprised if a $30 borescope is going to let you make that determination with confidence.

I like the earlier suggestion of paying what it's worth to you if you had to replace the tank.

I wouldn't worry too much about an explosion. Seems much, much more likely that it will develop a pinhole than explode, provided the overpressure valve is working properly and the tank wasn't repaired at some point (which is how I suspect most tank explosions happen).

Excellent point I've wondered and though the same

 

[stickshift]

Excellent point I've wondered and though the same

Gotta be, right? Think of how many millions of compressors have been sold over the last several decades. Then think about how poorly many of them have been maintained (tanks not frequently drained of water). If unmodified/unrepaired tanks with working pressure relief valves were a significant explosion risk, we'd be hearing about tank explosions on a very regular basis. But these seem as rare as hen's teeth, even with online news from every locale and a forum full of people who would be interested in this kind of news.

So I assume most explosions involve a failed pressure relief valve and/or a repaired tank.

 

[iusamson]

I like the earlier suggestion of paying what it's worth to you if you had to replace the tank.

.

I guess I'll ask - what do you think this would be worth sitting on a new tank? If it were to fail in the next several years i would probably just run and grab my dad's tank earlier than expected and run the pump/motor on a shelf with a remote tank. Is this pump/motor combo "worth" $400?

 

[sberry]

If it works now and you can manage to wear it out to the point you need rings then it wont owe you anything. You will have gotten the miles out of it. Buy another one.
What its actually worth I got no idea as I dont need one. Its got to be good enough deal that you could replace any piece tomorrow and it would be ok. I would say its worth about 1/2 what a new pump of its type cost if its in great shape.
You can put me down as not sure that scheme is all original.

 

[Jswain]

It all depends honestly. To me, I would say it's still worth between 3-400 even if it had no tank. It's got a decent 5hp motor and a nice pump(providing it's in good shape & you can get parts). The intake silencers are nice, & not cheap, if all the plumbing and wiring is updated like you said then yes I still think it's a decent deal. No different then someone buying a 3phase unit for cheap and having to change the motor to single phase or adding a phase converter.

But that's to me, and I like working on **** and restoring it, and good tanks come up for around $100 here often enough that if I bought it and parked it in a corner for a month or two I wouldn't mind.

Maybe the tank will be okay and it will be a very good deal. Just all things to consider when you go look at it

 

[cnc-me]

See if you can get it for 300 or even 250, then keep an eye out for a bigger tank.

 

[Cgw1984]

See if you can get it for 300 or even 250, then keep an eye out for a bigger tank.

If i was selling a widget for $425, and someone offered me $250-300 id probably politely ask them to leave.

 

[toddmorr]

If i was selling a widget for $425, and someone offered me $250-300 id probably politely ask them to leave.

i buy and sell stuff on craigslist all the time and that kind of response to a "low ball" offer doesn't really help the seller. Better to respond with something like "can't go that low at this point but check back later." that way you possibly keep the door open for the buyer to maybe come back with a decent offer.

 

[Cgw1984]

i buy and sell stuff on craigslist all the time and that kind of response to a "low ball" offer doesn't really help the seller. Better to respond with something like "can't go that low at this point but check back later." that way you possibly keep the door open for the buyer to maybe come back with a decent offer.

Fair enough. Ive never needed money badly enough to do that. Ive always been able to hold onto said item until i got what i needed.