Advice Needed On Building A Small Workbench

[RiseAbove]

I'm looking at building a small solid workbench, around 4' x 4', to stick in a tight corner of my garage. I want to mount a small vise to it and just use it to clean up and refurbish the old tools i collect. What do you recommend in terms of leg/support brands and also the actual material for the worktop in terms of durability? Also, what companies make good castors? I want something solid that will last, and that i can hand down.

Thanks

 

[sberry]

See what you can find salvage to start with. Out of about 25 shelves nd fixtures got about 1 I bought new, a couple used cheap and the rest given salvage, some I painted, modified etc.
Some were prototype, figured I would upgrade or replace once I got it worked out but they worked well enough or better than I planned.

 

[theoldwizard1]

A 4' deep work bench is not a good idea because you will not be able to reach things that get pushed to the back.

A good video on a simple sturdy workbench build. Do not skip the part about the dowels ! It adds a lot of strength and durability. You can always get a 4'x4' piece of 3/4" plywood and cut it down. Take the cut off pieces and use them the reinforce the overhanging edges. Better to mount your vice. (Make sure all bolts on the vice go through doubled plywood and that the doubler is of reasonable size.)

 

[RiseAbove]

See what you can find salvage to start with. Out of about 25 shelves nd fixtures got about 1 I bought new, a couple used cheap and the rest given salvage, some I painted, modified etc.
Some were prototype, figured I would upgrade or replace once I got it worked out but they worked well enough or better than I planned.

Good idea. Probably best getting salvaged or used as opposed to paying crazy money for new. I've neen looking around for free work surfaces...just missed out on a solid butchers slab from the 19th century yesterday in my area.

A 4' deep work bench is not a good idea because you will not be able to reach things that get pushed to the back.

A good video on a simple sturdy workbench build. Do not skip the part about the dowels ! It adds a lot of strength and durability. You can always get a 4'x4' piece of 3/4" plywood and cut it down. Take the cut off pieces and use them the reinforce the overhanging edges. Better to mount your vice. (Make sure all bolts on the vice go through doubled plywood and that the doubler is of reasonable size.)

Thanks for the link. Yeah, i guess 4' deep would make it a pain to reach over and access things. I'd like to have something like this, but they get bought up for crazy money and used as decor...

 

[jd_1138]

I'd probably just use some stainless carriage bolts, washers, nuts, though dowels and biscuits are more elegant and stronger, but carriage bolts will be strong enough too. I'd use 4x4's for the legs and attach 2x4 ledgers to attach a shelf on below the workbench so that won't be wasted space, though you could just stack stuff below the bench without a shelf.

 

[RiseAbove]

I'd probably just use some stainless carriage bolts, washers, nuts, though dowels and biscuits are more elegant and stronger, but carriage bolts will be strong enough too. I'd use 4x4's for the legs and attach 2x4 ledgers to attach a shelf on below the workbench so that won't be wasted space, though you could just stack stuff below the bench without a shelf.

That looks solid. Especially with the 4x4's. Is that yours? What did you use as a work surface? The lower shelf would be a good idea as im trying to get as much space as i can out of a small footprint.

I have an old handmade wooden workbench, that I'd love to sell for crazy money (or even less) and replace with a 72" Husky metal tool box workcenter and make a new top for. I highly doubt that anybody would pay me the cost of a 72" box and the 2x's to build the top. If they did, I'd jump at it.

Crazy money is relative; if it's more than replacement cost, then, it's crazy. If it's just more than what seems like a good deal, but wouldn't buy a new replacement, then it's probably just what things cost.

OP, I'd consider getting a $400 or so HF or Husky 42" toolbox, and mounting a 1 3/4" thick, solid core door on top of it for a top. Cut down the door to the length and width you want.

I'm currently working on new workbenches for my basement shop area. I've decided to go with 28" width; that is comfortable to reach to the back of it and also reach pegboarded stuff on the wall behind.

The solid doors are heavy enough to mount a vise on.

That's a really nice workbench. I'd thought of getting a vintage rolling cart/toolbox, something like a Kennedy, and mounting wood on top, but i was concerned that they would be a lot of vibration and noise to the tools stored underneath.

The very old workbenches around my area usually go for thousands, and get bought up to go into expensive apartments in NYC to hold wine. Lol. It's kind of driven up the prices very high, and makes it hard for someone like myself who would like to get one to continue to use it for it's intended purpose. I was thinking of taking a ride out to PA to the Amish areas to take a look around and find something out there.

 

[Angry welder]

Do you have any problems with the wood shrinking and the joints loosening after time. I ask because I have a friend that lives in a pretty dry climate and after time the joints loosen up due to wood shrinkage and general use. I haven't built anything using lag bolts so I don't have any personal experience with the problem, my knowledge is from his experience.

 

[kctyphoon]

How nice are you trying to make this thing? Just google pictures, or on Pinterest. I’m sure there are plans available if you need them.. I’d decide what you want as a top and go from there.. what some guys do is make a solid “subfloor” for lack of a better term, and then screw on a piece of like MDF on top of it - with the intention of once the top gets destroyed, they can back out a few screws and flip it over for a brand new surface.

 

[icthruu74]

I built a 2’x4’ bench recently. Just used 2x4’ for a frame and legs and 1/2” ply for the top, although I did put a 2x6 under each end so there’d be something sturdy to attach a vice if I ever decided to add one. Put together with construction screws. It’s just on casters, I think I got from Menards although once loaded with tools, nails & screws it isn’t so easy to roll around the garage.

 

[ganymede]

Im putting one together now.
Its for a small apartment so Im making it 30" x 48".
Im leaving the bottom shelf set back a bit so when Im sitting there's a little bit of room for legs.
The top will be hardwood planks but im having trouble finding anything thicker than 1.75" and even that is kind of expensive.

View media item 90498

 

[jkesselr]

I’ve built the wood benches pictured above with good luck. One of the stoutest I did was topped with 2x12s and then skinned with a sheet of ply. When the bench starts looking like hell, just swap it out.

 

[Aquamoose]

I’ve built benches with simple 4x4’s, 2x4’s, and MDF’s for the top. Two of the benches I’ve made had a bullnose front and was covered with 1/8” thick reinforced sheet rubber. Extremely versatile since it resists oils & grease, provides a “grip” on stuff, and is easy to sweep debris off. It was applied with spray adhesive and theoretically, it can be peeled off for replacement but never did. The backs & sides of one was capped with metal trim for vinyl flooring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DFB]

The picture in post 5 is good general design And #12 is somewhat similar.

If it was me I would run the lower shelf on the inside of the supports leaves an overhang on the top, get more room for your legs especially if you want to sit on stool. And as like in 12 the side stretchers well they can be set in flush and toenailed into the legs or face nailed to the other stretchers for cleaner look, just shorten your lower front and back by the thickness you need.

If you really want heavy 4 x4 style legs you can always double up 2 x 4" lumber for added strength but I usually don't find it necessary with lower shelving helping to tie it all together. I usually just impact power in long deck screws but bolts work or even nails, but many years ago I once bought a metal bracket kit at one of the home stores it had all the corner bracket braces you need to builds a 2x 4 bench of your size dimensions for those less inclined to design their own.

I almost never buy lumber for these projects and just utilize scraps from jobs. Though nothing like the dimensions you're after this just something I threw together two winters ago, all scrap wood except for the 4 long 2x's...two at the top and two lower for the shelf. All the osb is small pieces. I kept it narrow to the tool cabinet width so not to cut into the bay work area

Oh and ya unless you can access it from two sides 4 ft is generally too deep for work tables, and 3 ft is better. Gives you depth for stuff on the table and still leaves room to work.

 

[WaterBoyz]

I used a similar 2x4 framing that some have posted already.

For the top, I used a solid core door. Got it at the blue box store. It was in their scratch-n-dent section. Paid $28. I just cut it to size. Sometimes I use a sheet of masonite on top if I'm doing some "dirty" work. Cheap covering.

As for the vice, be sure to mount it over the leg for extra strength. Also, be sure that the fixed face is set about 1/2" beyond the front edge of the top and the side. That way you can fasten long stuff.

Another time, I have also attached a 2x6 to the wall and set a kitchen countertop on top of the ledge and secured it to the 2x6. Added galvanized pipes with flanges to the front left and right as legs.

 

[Jmo371]

pretty simple tbh. 2x4's with 4x4 legs and whatever you want for a top, plywood, a door, 2x6's....pick a design and go nuts. If you are using screws make sure you glue it too.

 

[Mr_B]

I think 4ft by 3ft deep about right, if can squeeze bit more length do so .
2x4 works well, glued screwed coach bolts etc .
Nice have the wood sitting for a while so dried and shrunk then treat it with an oil once built .
I like double 3/4 ply for tops but if solid core door usable then can be cost effective.
I'm a bib fan of rubber matt on bench tops, either inlay and easy lifted out or bonded and folded around bullnose front edge .
super easy do and can look nice, can even make or add some old wood drawers under it etc .

 

[M_George]

Would pallet wood be a good option for a work bench top?

 

[larry_g]

View media item 77446
Have you considered steel. You can see part of my rolling table in the picture above. Being open underneath I can roll the tiller and lawnmower under it when needed.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[bczygan]

Workbenches that take up little space:

2 foldable sawhorses and a piece of plywood.

A wall mounted piece of plywood that folds down.


Bill