Advice on compressor airline set-up?

[FrankBullitt]

I am completely new to this, other than using a pancake with coiled hose for trim out, so please bear with any stupid thoughts or questions.

This is an obviously simple system for air ratchets/impact, sanders, but I know it's just the start. Eventually I'll probably add outlets, add a line for painting etc. so this will be a work in progress.

The compressor is the 60g Campbell Hausfeld sold by Lowes. The regulator/water trap I have is this Astra from Amazon.

The compressor has a 3/4" outlet, the regulator has 1/2" inlets and outlets.


My intention is to plumb the first couple feet to the wall mounted regulator using metallic line (stainless/brass/copper) for stability and to cool the air. I am placing the regulator close to reduce the pressure downline to 90 psi in the hopes of avoiding leaks. (Does this make sense?)

Of course I'll have to step down from 3/4 to 1/2 to attach the regulator, but is there a real advantage to increasing the line size back to 3/4 between the regulator and the 10-15 feet to the hose reel (I'll be using 50' of 3/8" rubber or like)?

I'll be using non-metallic after the trap-NOT PVC- to allow me flexibility in later modifications. Size makes a difference. If I use 1/2" supply, I might buy the RapidAir set from Amazon- it's under $80. If I use 3/4 I'll probably go PEX, since the purchase of tools will be offset by the 3/4" RapidAir set being twice the cost of the 1/2"

Also, in the drawing above I've indicated points for ball valve drains at low points. Am I overdoing it?

Any advice is appreciated!

 

[Falcon67]

I would use a flexible line - TSC sells 3' with 3/4" male ends, high pressure hydraulic line for cheap - to keep vibration out of the hard lines. 2' of 3/4 copper line isn't going to do much of any cooling. You might consider running 10~20' of 1/2 iron along the wall, then dropping off that with your other type of line. You get a long feed pipe that would provide a bit of air cooling.

I hear the "flexible" deal, but I can tell you that having done iron lines in two shops, very likely you won't be changing much of anything.

 

[fnieto]

You'll want to use a section of hose (flexable) from the compressor to the start of your hard (fixed) system. You might consider a drop leg (drain) prior to the Regulator.

 

[FrankBullitt]

That's a great idea to use a flexible connection between the compressor and wall mounted line- especially since I'm putting the compressor on a modified version of the wood skid to minimize noise and vibration.

I had initially thought of going right off the regulator to the hose reel, but the issue of water going to tools if not given the opportunity to condense and be drained from the supply before the hose reel made me plan for a longer run. Plus I really don't have room to spare where the compressor is going-a hose reel nearer the center of the garage is more practical.

I had looked at PEX or Rapidair for ease of installation. those changes of direction in my drawing are there because I have some shelving and a door to avoid; the ceiling has drwall wrapped I beam to avoid, and there's no straight way up.

I had not priced copper or black gas pipe, but cost is not the hindrance, just ease of installation. I don't have a lot of room for error where I plan to run this, so cutting on site is a plus. i feel comfortable sweating pipe, but I don't usually do it against a finished wall (multiple direction changes make on floor assembly and post soldering wall mounting impractical). Since my plumber neighbor moved, I have no one to cut and thread pipe.

A section of rigid metallic in the middle of the run makes sense as a cooler, and would still let me use PEX or similar to make the precision lengths easier. In fact, would it even be necessary? Would the rises and falls, with drains at low points be enough?

And once I've stepped down to the 1/2" at the regulator, I guess there's no point going back up to 3/4. With a run under 25 feet and a 50 foot 3/" hose at the end, the loss in pressure from the smaller line is probably insignificant.

 

[MoonRise]

http://www.tptools.com/tech-tips.dlp

and specifically

http://www.tptools.com/tech-metal-piping.dlp

Flexible line from compressor tank into the 'hard' piping and drip legs are two rather important things to include (must-haves).

1/2" pipe is 'plenty' for that size of compressor and the lengths of piping you mentioned. 3/4" is overkill (hey, I like overkill).

For iron pipe, you can get it cut and threaded when you buy it. If the pipe is a bit 'short', add a fitting or union or coupler, etc.

 

[FrankBullitt]

About the pressure regulator- is there any validity to keeping it close to the compressor (say right after the flexible whip) to reduce leaks (by filling the lines with 90psi air instead of 120 psi air?). Is placing the regulator right before hose reel the btter choice?

 

[fnieto]

As far as your regulator location, many folks (including myself) place it at the start of the system. Depending how much psi your system provides.
Example, the system I'm currently installing provides 175 psi. I will regulate it downy to 125 to feed around 350' (loop system) with seven "drops.
After the regulator it goes to a drop leg with auto dump (about 12-15' from reg.
then goes up and back towards the left to a bypass system/ refrigeration dryer.

The first 27' act as a pre cooler (with auto dump) prior to entering the dryer/bypass.
The other drops in the system have dedicated final air regulators for dedicated equipment (plasma table, milling machine etc.) The drops for the automotive area also regulated with oiler. (every drop has a drain to monitor any water in the system)

Air systems really can be kept simple.
IMHO required items for a good air system are.
1 Flex hose from compressor to system with pre cooling prior to fist drop.
2 regulator for main system.
3 drop legs with drains.
4 automatic drain for compressor tank.
If you need 100% dry at a certin drop, then invest in a serviceable dryer such as desiccant or filter type.
I hope this helps.

 

[PT Doc]

As far as your regulator location, many folks (including myself) place it at the start of the system. Depending how much psi your system provides.
Example, the system I'm currently installing provides 175 psi. I will regulate it downy to 125 to feed around 350' (loop system) with seven "drops.
After the regulator it goes to a drop leg with auto dump (about 12-15' from reg.
then goes up and back towards the left to a bypass system/ refrigeration dryer.

The first 27' act as a pre cooler (with auto dump) prior to entering the dryer/bypass.
The other drops in the system have dedicated final air regulators for dedicated equipment (plasma table, milling machine etc.) The drops for the automotive area also regulated with oiler. (every drop has a drain to monitor any water in the system)

Air systems really can be kept simple.
IMHO required items for a good air system are.
1 Flex hose from compressor to system with pre cooling prior to fist drop.
2 regulator for main system.
3 drop legs with drains.
4 automatic drain for compressor tank.
If you need 100% dry at a certin drop, then invest in a serviceable dryer such as desiccant or filter type.
I hope this helps.

What would you guess your psi is 350' downstream from the 125 psi regulator?

 

[fnieto]

What would you guess your psi is 350' downstream from the 125 psi regulator?

It's a 1" loop system so I think none. The CNC Plasma table will be located at the furthest point from the air compressor, this is the reason for size and loop design.

 

[jake342]

I'm working on setting up an 80 gallon 7.5 HP Eaton/Polar Air this weekend. This is my plan

1. Ball valve out of tank 3/4"
-(I'd assume standard on most compressors)

2. Flexible hydraulic line rated for 300 psi 3/4"
-(custom cut locally)

3. Short 1" (length) ****** of out of filter 3/4"
-(for ease of clamping filter and regulator to wall)

4. Brass ****** to connect filter and regulator
-(for reference my system is running from right to the left..so filter then regulator)

5. 4' x 3/4" pipe to a 90 degree elbow

6. 10' x3/4" pipe to a 90 degree tee

7. 3/4" ball valve on bottom of tee

8. 5' x 3/4" pipe running up the wall to an elbow

9. 1/2" line from elbow to hose reel

sorry if I left anything out but ill try to snap you some pictures once I get it finished. ill post them in the thread after the weekend incase you want to alter your set up

for me... I ordered filter and regulator to accept 3/4" lines because that is what the compressor manufactured recommended (a 3/4" line set up)

 

[Standard Gas&Oil]

Try this.

 

[PT Doc]

It's a 1" loop system so I think none. The CNC Plasma table will be located at the furthest point from the air compressor, this is the reason for size and loop design.

The loop is key. Sounds like a good setup.

 

[rburke65]

Yes, this: http://www.tptools.com/tech-metal-piping.dlp

 

[FrankBullitt]

Thanks to all who've answered for your help- it's been a great help. i am now convinced to go with black pipe, even (especially?) for this small setup. I know that using my pancake unit generated a surprising amount of moisture in the tank, and that was conditioned air inside the house- not air from outside as in the garage. As I expand my projects and my abilities, I'll probably loop it as it seems to be a very efficient system and would allow me the convenience of attachments all over the garage.

I didn't get to the project as work, some unexpected family issues and a fantastic car show today out in Sycamore, IL gobbled up my time.

One issue I've come across- the regulator I bought is spec'd as having 1/2" inlets and outlets. However, the unit I received has an inlet that looks to take 1/2" NPT pipe but the include ball shutoff in the outlet is stamped "1/4". The spec sheet shows it as 1/4" also. As I am going to place this regulator at the beginning of the supply, it would seem pointless to run 1/2" after this as the regulator has already choked the supply. Probably not much of an issue until I expand, but still not optimal choice for the 1/2" pipe I intended. ( The 1/2" pipe is i.d., right?)

If I can't get this sorted with Amazon (the regulator is not the brand/number listed on the website, but is obviously badge-engineered) any recommendations for a good unit like this? My budget is under $100, and a lot of the units I've looked at are plastic, and have leakage and durability issues.