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Advice on expansion joints and floor stains

danehoy

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Joined
Dec 13, 2009
Messages
19
I am seeking advice on two topics, as my new garage has recently become a budding passion. (Stay-at-home dads need something to remain sane!)

1) I have expansion joints quartering my 2 car garage. I have read postings on TGJ and seen many of your posted pictures on epoxy flooring, but none quite address what I want to do. I would like the expansion joints to be a white color in contrast with the planned tan epoxy I want to put down.

I would love ideas on how to tackle that and even cautionary tales or suggestions to avoid this detail if you don't think it can work.

2) The previous owner was arrested by the FBI. While in jail, he failed to take care of ice melt in his garage which sat untended for almost 2 summers. It made for a pretty wicked stain on the garage floor that needs to be cleaned before I can consider putting any epoxy finish over it. I am seeking advice as to the best ways to get such a long-standing chemical stain off the floor.

I admit I have not tried the recommended cleaning agents yet, but I think these areas may need a bit more TLC. Again, if you think a standard cleaner is enough for such a task, it can save me from going over-board. If over-board is needed, I would value any and all suggestions.

Thank you for the help and the web site for channeling my efforts!
--DH
 
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AlphaGarage

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Apr 16, 2008
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What chemical do you think caused the stain? Just because there's a nasty stain does not mean that it will present a problem for a high quality epoxy primer. Drip a bit of water on the stained area and look to see if it soaks in evenly. If it does you can probably coat right over it after a good cleaning.

With the joints, do you want them to be filled and smoothed at the same grade as the rest of the floor? Or will there still be a depression?
 
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danehoy

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Dec 13, 2009
Messages
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What chemical do you think caused the stain? Just because there's a nasty stain does not mean that it will present a problem for a high quality epoxy primer. Drip a bit of water on the stained area and look to see if it soaks in evenly. If it does you can probably coat right over it after a good cleaning.

With the joints, do you want them to be filled and smoothed at the same grade as the rest of the floor? Or will there still be a depression?

The chemical was an ice melt, but for the brand and type, I do not know.

As for the joints--They can be filled or unfilled. I am comfortable with either look as long as there is some contrast breaking up the large open space. I would take suggestions on which you think is easier, which you think would look better, and which you think would cost less, and which would be easier to maintain. Time and money are secondary to looks and maint., but knowing my options helps, as I have never really dealt with this before.
 
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AlphaGarage

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You could fill them in, coat, then tape off the lines and recoat with a contrasting color, then clear coat..

A much easier way would be to prime, then coat with the pigmented top coat, then fill in the cracks with something like out IntegraFlex filler, and then clear coat it all. The IntegraFlex is a light grayish color. That would require the cracks be somewhat uniform sized and in good shape to look sharp.
 

Hammerdown

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Oct 28, 2005
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The Motor City
I would avoid making them another color for contrast- my $.02. Most people who fill the joints do that to provide a uniform looking surface. I would think that like AG says, the joints would have to be near perfect to produce a clean, tight look. Take his advise and tape them off and create them with a different color. This way you can tape a straight edge on either side of the joint and get the look you're after with the best results. As for the cleaner, I always try a good non caustic detergent first- Simple Green or Dawn dish soap and see how far I can get before going to a harsh chemical.
 
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danehoy

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Dec 13, 2009
Messages
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I would avoid making them another color for contrast- my $.02. Most people who fill the joints do that to provide a uniform looking surface. I would think that like AG says, the joints would have to be near perfect to produce a clean, tight look. Take his advise and tape them off and create them with a different color. This way you can tape a straight edge on either side of the joint and get the look you're after with the best results. As for the cleaner, I always try a good non caustic detergent first- Simple Green or Dawn dish soap and see how far I can get before going to a harsh chemical.

I think that is good, level headed advice. I played with that ice melt stain today. It is pretty nasty, as it has collected a host of dust and debris. I think the best thing to do would be to just start with that surface stuff with what you mentioned and then move on to the chemical issues.
 
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