Advice on Garage (30x50)

[ZackJB]

1st time poster!
Looking for some advice on a garage build.
New to the forum read some posts and was very impressed with the knowledge base on this site, would like to be benefit from it.

Location - Wesley Chapel FL

Size - 30x50


I just bought a home, and it had a building on it previously which a previous owner removed. I still have the concrete pad which is roughly 35x60 from the spot checks on depth I've done it appears to be 4inch.

I wanted to start researching what it will cost and things to look for in getting a garage built. I'm thinking a 30x50 would be plenty. I'm looking to do the below with it:

• Lawn equipment storage - the Zer0 turn & what not..
• UTV
• Kids bikes and what not
• Project car
• Parking for my truck
• workshop area

Thanks for your time on your responses in advance.

-Zack

 

[gpp]

Put in lots of insulation,heat,air,lift for car,led lights,GOOD doors,wire for internet and tv etc,etc.i built my 30x60 as if it was a house but no windows and it’s great.

 

[tomroblee]

Start with a visit to your local building department to see what they will allow you to build. In Florida you shouldn't have to worry about frost. If you are building on a slab on grade (which is what I assume you have), they may require the slab to be thicker at the edges (underneath exterior walls).

Most of us Yankees are used to wood construction. I understand that concrete block is frequently used in Florida because you are battling wind load and termites rather than frost.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

You need to assess your skills in construction. Sometimes it is wiser to have a building that size done by established contractor. Then you can finish the interior to your liking. Florida hurricane codes are pretty tough. We have a winter place in Vero Beach and even garden sheds have to meet a minimum code. You said it's mostly storage so the cheapest route might be the square tube car port style building. They have come a long way and are quite common and reasonable $.

 

[gnpenning]

Welcome Zack.

If the slab is flat and you build it smaller than the slab size, depending on your local weather. You may have a problem with water sitting on the slab and trying to seep in under the seal plate.

 

[ZackJB]

Put in lots of insulation,heat,air,lift for car,led lights,GOOD doors,wire for internet and tv etc,etc.i built my 30x60 as if it was a house but no windows and it’s great.

Those items are on the list of "to-do's"

 

[ZackJB]

Start with a visit to your local building department to see what they will allow you to build. In Florida you shouldn't have to worry about frost. If you are building on a slab on grade (which is what I assume you have), they may require the slab to be thicker at the edges (underneath exterior walls).

Most of us Yankees are used to wood construction. I understand that concrete block is frequently used in Florida because you are battling wind load and termites rather than frost.

I'll most likely have it installed for me, I'm a network engineer by trade and with all the building codes/hurricane specific codes ect..ect.. probably best to leave it to the professionals. I'm hoping my slab is correct and I don't need to have any of the concrete re-worked.

 

[ZackJB]

You need to assess your skills in construction. Sometimes it is wiser to have a building that size done by established contractor. Then you can finish the interior to your liking. Florida hurricane codes are pretty tough. We have a winter place in Vero Beach and even garden sheds have to meet a minimum code. You said it's mostly storage so the cheapest route might be the square tube car port style building. They have come a long way and are quite common and reasonable $.

I'm looking at having an established contractor erect the building and I'll handle the internal work. I've been looking at the metal buildings, appears those will be the most cost effective route.

 

[ZackJB]

Welcome Zack.

If the slab is flat and you build it smaller than the slab size, depending on your local weather. You may have a problem with water sitting on the slab and trying to seep in under the seal plate.

I'll have to ask the contractor about that aspect, the slab is pre-existing and hoping it's good to use, would like to save the money from re-working the slab and put it into the goodies on the inside.

 

[Whasat]

Welcome Zack.

If the slab is flat and you build it smaller than the slab size, depending on your local weather. You may have a problem with water sitting on the slab and trying to seep in under the seal plate.

I agree with this, I have a small building that the slab is 6" wider that the building and there is nothing that stops the water from seeping in. I tried silicone, great stuff, concrete outside capping the slab and going up on the wall metal a ways.

I still use the building for storing the tractor and kids toys, but any time it rains there is water on the floor. I made sure when I had my 40 x 60 built that the wall metal extended down past the slab to prevent water intrusion.

Another tip, if you have a metal roof put at minimum the bubble type insulation under the metal on the roof. This will prevent the roof metal from sweating during temperature swings.

 

[rrp0968]

If the slab is only 4” thick around the perimeter, wouldn’t this be asking for foundation issues down the road. There would normally pretty sizable footings around the perimeter of a building this size.

 

[ZackJB]

If the slab is only 4” thick around the perimeter, wouldn’t this be asking for foundation issues down the road. There would normally pretty sizable footings around the perimeter of a building this size.

This is what I'm trying to figure out, may be best for me to call a contractor. I'm not very construction savvy. I measured the thickness in a few different spots, 2 spot were 4" the other spot was 6"...

 

[ZackJB]

I agree with this, I have a small building that the slab is 6" wider that the building and there is nothing that stops the water from seeping in. I tried silicone, great stuff, concrete outside capping the slab and going up on the wall metal a ways.

I still use the building for storing the tractor and kids toys, but any time it rains there is water on the floor. I made sure when I had my 40 x 60 built that the wall metal extended down past the slab to prevent water intrusion.

Another tip, if you have a metal roof put at minimum the bubble type insulation under the metal on the roof. This will prevent the roof metal from sweating during temperature swings.

Great advice, appreciate it!

 

[d300]

Not many jurisdictions will allow you to re-use a slab unless you have the original engineering...way too many variables. For you it would be a huge risk.
However, it might be possible, and your local permitting agency may approve using the slab if you install new footings/foundation at the outside edges. You need to have a conversation with 'those' folks.