Advice on installing long brake lines

[chicane]

I need to put in all new brake lines in my truck. The most complicated line is from the main ABS junction (driver side) to the rear of the truck passenger side. what is the best method to install this line as a single piece? Should I prebend or try to bend in-line?

 

[muddinguy]

Unless you're building a show truck just bend it as you run it.. Try and run a single peice but that's not always possible..

 

[General Geoff]

Depends on the specific bends needed and how much clearance you have. Since you're asking if you should pre bend or bend inline, that gives you some options. You can also form the long line with multiple shorter lines joined together, if that's advantageous for fitting. Just be aware that every joint is another potential point of leaking/failure, so have as few as is practical.

 

[steveo3002]

i havent had much luck pre bending , maybe bend up the fisrt bit on the bench then do it as you go

 

[Hpozzuoli]

I highly doubt you can get it done with only one line. You can probably do it with 2 lines. Coming off the abs and down out of the engine bay will be one, then another to the wheel. The first one will prob require to much snaking to do it with a 10ft line (just a guess on the length). Bending in line is very hard especially with stainless. I don't use the composite lines much because they kink very easily.

You might consider getting the first line off the abs as an oem item from the dealer so you only have to massage it a little. Most local name brand parts stores only have 4ft lines near me so if you want a longer one call before heading down.

 

[MonoxieChild]

I bend as i go. Brake line replacements have been a huge money maker for me as all my friends always get scared to do them. I can usually replace a full run in under an hour if i have all the line and fittings ill need handy. I dont even use my bender the majority of the time anymore.

 

[Alienbaby17]

It all depends on how well you can flare lines. If you can do a nice flare your best bet would be to buy a roll of line and then just add the fittings and flares. This way it is only one piece with less possibilities for leaking.

I always bend the line as I install it in the vehicle. Like has been said before, if it's not for a show vehicle who cares if it doesn't look 100% original?

I believe NAPA (and probably others) is selling specific brake line that is supposed to be easy to bend by hand.

 

[RM209]

The easiest way is to purchase a pre-bent replacement; if it's a relatively recent car or truck, the dealer may have the part. Some aftermarket suppliers such as Classic Tube or In-Line Tube provide pre-formed brake lines for some of the more popular american cars and trucks. In my case, I needed to bend a long brake line from the front to the rear of the car for an old Buick, so I just removed the old line, and bent the new one by hand; it came out pretty well.

Note: if you have a reletively recent GM truck, you're not alone: https://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motor...-twilight-zones-of-auto-safety-203750980.html

Good Luck
RM209

 

[chicane]

The consensus says bend in-line. I have already purchased two coils of line and all the fittings. I am not interested in pre-bent lines anyway because i knew there would be the possibility to have to install that long line in two pieces. bending in place seems like the best option it is a truck and i have plenty of room under the frame and in the wheel wells the ONLY part that concerns me is the 90 degree bend that makes a sharp left hand turn from the driver side rear wheel well to the passenger side rear wheel well.

I am assuming that I would pull the line forward a bit to the driver side rear wheel well to perform the bend but then how do I get it between all of the suspension pieces to slide it over the frame to the passenger side?

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

spring the extra cash for the copper lines, twice as much (roughly) than steel, but easier to bend in line and won't rust back out.

 

[sberry]

I never have trouble with unions. Tale a couple ruff measurements and buy 2 or 3 lines, copy some, bend some as you go. I wouldn't make a fitting unless I had to, buy the last line near the length.

 

[firebox40dash5]

spring the extra cash for the copper lines, twice as much (roughly) than steel, but easier to bend in line and won't rust back out.

That, or at least poly-coated steel. Well, not literally copper, but the copper-nickel stuff. I know here in MD regular copper won't pass inspection. One of our neighbor shops uses copper-nickel, we use the poly coated. I've heard a few of his customers mention a hassle from inspection over the copper stuff, and it's like 3x as much.

I buy tubing in 25' rolls from Napa and bend in place. I'll usually flare one end, route it through where I need it, screw the fitting in loose, and make it do what I need it to do. Works for me, and lets us charge customers less.

PS: If you're not planning on it already, just do them all. If you are, good, you're smart. Especially if it's a GMT800. I tried doing just one... once. Got it all in, starting bleeding it, another one blew. Screw it, you get all new lines now.

 

[dlcwent]

Hey guys I just want you all to know that the nickle/copper alloy is alot less expessive from The Tool Warehouse. In my opion, it's the only way to fly when doing brake lines. I probably install over 30 50' rolls of 3/16" every year(we live in Maine...rust rust rust)and almost as many 1/4" Easy to bend as you go. But usually it works better when you get a measurement and pre flare(with line nuts) the ends before putting them on.

 

[wafrederick]

Some of the pre bent brake lines from GM are obsolete.Ordered some from the dealer a couple years ago for a 2003 Suburban,two were obsolete.Buy the 25 foot roll,less connections to make with less leaks.Copper is not the way to go for brake lines,can burst and won't hold up with the pressure on braking system.The biggest mistake I have seen are people using the compression fittings for brake line fittings.I see them,that brake line gets replaced on the spot.Even using regular fuel hose secured with hose clamps.

 

[Ncognito]

Warning: Never use copper tubing as a replacement. It cannot withstand the high pressure or the vibration to which brake lines are exposed. Fluid leakage and system failure can result.

 

[Tinner]

The copper line people are recommending is nickel copper iron alloy. It's made to be used as brake line, a completely different thing than common copper tubing.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/nicopp-nickel-copper-alloy-brake-line-coil-3-16-x-25-cnc-325/16190029-p?cm_mmc=ACQ-_-Google-_-GPLA-_-16190029&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=16190029&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=&gclid=CJeb_aaQyr0CFcURMwod8VUA9w#utm_source=acq&utm_medium=google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=16190029

 

[hickmlg09]

Ugh! I hate doing brake lines. They can be a pain in the A$$ sometimes!

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

The copper line people are recommending is nickel copper iron alloy. It's made to be used as brake line, a completely different thing than common copper tubing.

But I'm deleting your advance link since I work for the zone

 

[efncrx]

Flexible braided brake line.

 

[stage20]

Flexible braided brake line.

Not for long runs! Even good teflon hose will fatigue. I personally would buy different length premade lines from the store and hook a couple together. Flaring a brake line needs to be perfect or it will leak.

 

[finn]

I just use the pre-made lengths. Never had a leak at a union, in fact, I don't see why it would leak if installed correctly.

 

[kossuth]

I need to put in all new brake lines in my truck. The most complicated line is from the main ABS junction (driver side) to the rear of the truck passenger side. what is the best method to install this line as a single piece? Should I prebend or try to bend in-line?

When I redid my 01 Dodge Ram I purchased a spool of line from Napa kinda like this. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d....oap?ck=Search_N0833_-1_-1&pt=N0833&ppt=C0066 On my old trunk I needed 2 spools to do the entire thing.

The way I did it was I figured the rough length and cut off a chunk. Flared one of the ends and made sure I put a fitting on it. I then took the old line and placed it into my tubing bender. This is the bender I have. http://www.sears.com/imperial-tripl...p-00947299000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 Once the bender settled into the old tube I took a sharpie marker and marked it and made note of the degree of bend. I then layed the old line and the new line I was making side by side and transferred the mark over. Then placed the bender on the new line and went to work. Rinse and repeat for the rest of the bends making sure that everything was clocked in the right position prior to making the next bend. At the end make sure install a fitting before you flair. I could replicate a line in 20-30 minutes if I took my time and nothing fought me. To me it was a lot easier to get something 99.999% right on a bench vs having to fight with it under the truck.

Granted you don't have to be this particular about remaking lines, but I wanted it all to match to OE stuff.

 

[sharkytm]

I just redid the abs to rear end line on my 04 Chevy 2500hd, and used the copper nickel alloy. It's great, easy to flare, easy to bend, and will never rust. I got a 25' roll at NAPA for $40, which was plenty. I did the u-bend for the front on the bench, everything else was bent under the truck.

 

[NKlamerus]

I just redid the abs to rear end line on my 04 Chevy 2500hd, and used the copper nickel alloy. It's great, easy to flare, easy to bend, and will never rust. I got a 25' roll at NAPA for $40, which was plenty. I did the u-bend for the front on the bench, everything else was bent under the truck.

I have to do my 02 2500hd soon, did you also replace the rubber hoses?

 

[Unmarked Bill]

Just in case it hasn't been mentioned, you will want to know the difference between double flare and bubble flare. The kid at the parts store will be happy to sell you double flare tube and a bubble flare union. You will have a leak in that union.

A good trick for finding leaks is to put baby powder on your latex gloved fingers, they usually show up as a tiny weep but you will want that buttoned up.

Once your line is in, it is expedient to pull fluid from the master with a mityvac. Probably will still need to bleed in the traditional way but it will get you in the ballpark fast.

You don't want your master to run dry at any point.

 

[n8n]

If you use the nicopp stuff (excellent) for a winter beater thinking it'll be better than stock steel, it is, but the tube nuts that come with it rust faster than even the parts store zinc plated ones. I replaced one of the axle lines on my Jeep with it only a couple months ago and the tube nut at the wheel cylinder is already rusty. If I'd had more time I would have ordered stainless tube nuts, or at least knowing what I know now I would just buy the roll and regular zinc plated tube nuts rather than use the ones that come on the sticks of nicopp.

 

[firebox40dash5]

I have to do my 02 2500hd soon, did you also replace the rubber hoses?

If you haven't been under it and you're worried about rust, I'd at least buy the frame-axle hose to save a mid-job trip to the store. Not so much for fear of it being bad, but the fittings like to rust badly enough you can't get them off. At 12 years old it's not a bad idea to replace them while you're bleeding it anyway, it's not like they cost a fortune. They seem to flap shut and cause problems more than normal, too.

Tip: you're replacing the hard line anyway. Screw wrenches, cut the line at the junction and use a socket to minimize the chances of rounding off the line nut. I ALWAYS do that at the ABS pump, those fittings aren't standard and cost a good bit from GM... like $10-11+ each.

 

[n8n]

If you haven't been under it and you're worried about rust, I'd at least buy the frame-axle hose to save a mid-job trip to the store. Not so much for fear of it being bad, but the fittings like to rust badly enough you can't get them off. At 12 years old it's not a bad idea to replace them while you're bleeding it anyway, it's not like they cost a fortune. They seem to flap shut and cause problems more than normal, too.

Tip: you're replacing the hard line anyway. Screw wrenches, cut the line at the junction and use a socket to minimize the chances of rounding off the line nut. I ALWAYS do that at the ABS pump, those fittings aren't standard and cost a good bit from GM... like $10-11+ each.

Yes... exactly.

I too like to replace hoses on older vehicles as PM if I'm opening up the hydraulic system for any reason, and if I'm going to do that, cutting and using a 6 point socket is the way to go. Turn the hose end not the hard line end, so that if the tube nut is corroded to the line, you break the threads loose first and then hopefully can get the tube nut free.

good luck!

 

[Jrsixx]

I always use the nickel-copper stuff ...that stuff rocks. Usually I'll try to get the old line out in as few pieces as possible. I pre-bend as much as I can then lay the rest while in the car/truck. Be careful flaring the ends, the tubing is softer than steel and easier to screw up. If you happen to know someone with the Mastercool flaring tool, borrow it, steal it for a day if you have to, it's that good. Agree with others about rubber lines and using sockets to get off nuts. Also make sure to clean out center of any nuts you're reusing. Good luck

 

[firebox40dash5]

I always use the nickel-copper stuff ...that stuff rocks. Usually I'll try to get the old line out in as few pieces as possible. I pre-bend as much as I can then lay the rest while in the car/truck. Be careful flaring the ends, the tubing is softer than steel and easier to screw up. If you happen to know someone with the Mastercool flaring tool, borrow it, steal it for a day if you have to, it's that good. Agree with others about rubber lines and using sockets to get off nuts. Also make sure to clean out center of any nuts you're reusing. Good luck

I gotta say, I borrowed a Mastercool hydraulic flare set for one job, and I wasn't impressed. It was nice and all, and I'd use the hell out of it for flares on the bench, but it was a PITA to use under a car. I had a lot more trouble getting the tubing set right in the dies compared to a bar style tool, and I found it harder to use in tight spots. Other than not needing to tighten the wing nuts on the bar with a wrench, I just wasn't feeling it.

 

[jmm]

I never have trouble with unions. Tale a couple ruff measurements and buy 2 or 3 lines, copy some, bend some as you go. I wouldn't make a fitting unless I had to, buy the last line near the length.

That's exactly what I was coming in to say. Pre-bend what you can, and bend what you can't as you go. Works for me...

 

[Jrsixx]

I gotta say, I borrowed a Mastercool hydraulic flare set for one job, and I wasn't impressed. It was nice and all, and I'd use the hell out of it for flares on the bench, but it was a PITA to use under a car. I had a lot more trouble getting the tubing set right in the dies compared to a bar style tool, and I found it harder to use in tight spots. Other than not needing to tighten the wing nuts on the bar with a wrench, I just wasn't feeling it.

This is the spacer I made to make it all even easier.

 

[Jrsixx]

Another view

 

[LARSOFVT]

The pre bent stainless lines from Inline Tube or Classic Tube cost about $300 to do the entire truck.
The NiCopp brand lines that you buy in a roll are incredibly easy to bend on the truck. I am able to double flare it easily with a cheap HF flaring tool.

 

[Tbirdtc]

Let me guess it's a 99 to 05 chevy
I have done a bunch of these I did the last one with copper nickel and all new fittings all one piece
Super easy to bend and flare that stuff is expensive but a huge time saver
Cut all the old lines and use a socket to take old fittings off u may also need heat I did
U need a snap on scanner or tech 2 to bleed it

 

[chicane]

Thanks for all of the advice. Based on the comments I went with the copper nickel alloy instead of the stainless steel. I bought two rolls of '25. I'll try to do I single line per wheel and tell you how it goes.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Thanks for all of the advice. Based on the comments I went with the copper nickel alloy instead of the stainless steel. I bought two rolls of '25. I'll try to do I single line per wheel and tell you how it goes.

Please do ! I live in the rust belt and have a 15+ YO vehicle that I expect will be needing new brake lines soon. I have heard that NiCopp (nickle Copper) lines are very easy to bend and do not kink as easily as steel.

 

[firebox40dash5]

You should be able to get the rear, and either both master cylinder runs, or one plus the driver's front, off one roll, and the others should be easy to make off the other roll. Assuming you're talking a GMT800 anyway, which is about 95% of my brake line business.

 

[GRX]

Another vote for NiCopp. A pleasure to work with. In the process of replacing all the hard lines in my GTO.

And yeah ... I do most of my bending, and all of my flaring, at the bench. Even the long stuff. Use a piece of string to measure total length of the old pieces.