Advice on parking brake cable coupler tool

[sevensandeights]

I need to replace the intermediate cable on my 2008 GMC Sierra 2500HD. This cable connects to the foot pedal on one end and to equalizer/splitter cable on the other end. It connects via a coupler and, as I understand it, there are some indentations on the coupler that help lock the cable ends in.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18P2124-Professional-Parking-Assembly/dp/B000K023P0

I live in northwest Pennsylvanian so my couplers are RUSTY. Lisle makes a tool for this but it doesn't have great reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-44220-Emergency-Brake-Release/dp/B00HFSQ6TE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=lisle+44220&qid=1595551226&s=automotive&sr=1-1

Schley makes a really nice tool but it's $75!

Anybody use a different tool or have a different process for getting the cable ends out of the coupler?

 

[APEowner]

I just cut the coupler with the torch and replace it along with the cable. I hate rust.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I just cut the coupler with the torch and replace it along with the cable. I hate rust.

This. Replace everything behind the front cable and be done with it. Cut the cable behind the coupler, then fight it off.

Expect new e-brake shoes/hardware, and free-ing up the adjusters.

 

[visionguru]

With rust, probably neither tools will work:

 

[chaosracing]

Ford Superdutys have the set up and as mentioned above, replace everything. Trust me, you will curse and fight like hell to take it apart. I have had to replace plenty of these, and for how cheap the connector is, its just easier to replace. Then when you put it back together, you just have to pull the one cable (probably the one from the rear as I do with Superduty) Just make sure all your cables move freely and the parking brake moves freely as well.
PA ***** for their over usage of salt and brine. No matter how much washing you do, vehicles rust here.

 

[toplessHO]

Ford Superdutys have the set up and as mentioned above, replace everything. Trust me, you will curse and fight like hell to take it apart. I have had to replace plenty of these, and for how cheap the connector is, its just easier to replace. Then when you put it back together, you just have to pull the one cable (probably the one from the rear as I do with Superduty) Just make sure all your cables move freely and the parking brake moves freely as well.
PA ***** for their over usage of salt and brine. No matter how much washing you do, vehicles rust here.

Its the Pittsburgh mentality....need more steel just crank up the mills...
oh wait. what mills?

 

[sevensandeights]

I just cut the coupler with the torch and replace it along with the cable. I hate rust.

Each coupler has 2 cable ends in it though. Cable end coming from the foot pedal needs to be removed from the coupler and salvaged. The cable end from the intermediate cable can then be cut though since this entire cable (and the couplers on either end) will be replaced. Same situation in the rear, cable end that goes to the brake assemblies needs to be salvaged to go in the new coupler at the end the new intermediate cable.

 

[JSGAuto]

I had no idea there was a tool for this.

I used a chisel to open up the coupler a bit, then a punch and hammer to beat it out. Vice grip to hold the cable tension further back where the cable goes thru the body mount. (so that you are not fighting cable tension where you are working.

Lots of rust in NJ too.

 

[chaosracing]

Its the Pittsburgh mentality....need more steel just crank up the mills...
oh wait. what mills?

What ***** is when Ford used to make their own steel, rust issues were not as prevalent as they are today. But then here in PA, back in the day they also were not using salt like it was going out of style and liquid brine before every storm as well.

I have yet to see the aluminum bodies close up yet. But I know some of the big rig companies (Mack, Freightliner, Kenworth, etc) have been having corrosion issues, at least on their riveted seams.

 

[66HertzClone]

I'm not there yet but in time I will have to create me own parking brake cables when I install the E Brake system on my Mustang. I bought the Harbor Freight hydraulic electric crimping tool, I used it to crimp ends on a cable for the in of the trailer hitch on the trailer I have for my quad.

Would this work for putting ends on the parking brake cables? It looks like it would do he job, the supplied dies appear to be large enough to accommodate the cable size I have.

 

[Tallpilot]

I had no idea there was a tool for this.

I used a chisel to open up the coupler a bit, then a punch and hammer to beat it out. Vice grip to hold the cable tension further back where the cable goes thru the body mount. (so that you are not fighting cable tension where you are working.

Lots of rust in NJ too.

When the cable is salvageable the Schley tool makes a PITA job take about 5 seconds. If the cable is junk, may as well just cut it.

 

[sevensandeights]

Ok - I have my replacement intermediate cable and I'm ready to give this a go. I was able to salvage the ends of the cables (FRONT pedal cable and REAR cable that actually attaches to the brakes) that the intermediate cable attaches to. I have 2 new couplers and the REAR cable is attached to the new coupler and intermediate cable. When I went to attach the forward portion of the intermediate cable to the FRONT cable coming from the pedal, it is about 2.5" short (as expected I suppose). Any suggestions on how to "stretch" the cables enough to get them both in the coupler?

Not sure if there is an adjustment on the pedal or not. Seems like you could pull the intermediate cable forward to activate the parking brake in an effort to gain some slack but I'm not sure how to safely do this.

 

[sevensandeights]

The solution to my problem was actually quite simple. I watched a YouTube video about "resetting" the parking brake foot pedal inside the cab. The process described in the video was more involved than what I actually needed to do but it got me thinking. I simply pulled the release lever and held it while I had my son pull on the cable down on the frame rail. There is a hole in the foot pedal mechanism that you can stick a screwdriver to prevent it from recoiling back. I had plenty of slack to make my connection at the coupler and then pulled the screwdriver out and the cable tensioned immediately. A few pumps of the pedal and the project was complete.