Hello. I am currently in the process of enclosing and finishing off a section of my parents old barn/garage. I need a new floor but I want to get it done as easy as possible. The garage and house are very old and as you can see in the pictures the floor has settled and broken. It is all very sturdy. Towards the back wall it is all still solid and not broken up. The door to this section is a old sliding door and let the moisture and stuff into the garage which I think is the reason it broke up and settled so much near the door. That and the old age didnt help it. Around the bottom of the walls is a brick foundation that is all still in good shape. I was thinking of putting a barrier across where the sliding door is and just pouring a slab of concrete over all the old stuff. The sliding door is coming out after i get the floor fixed and I am putting up a wall and a double wide door there. So no cars or anything more heavy then my tool box will be on it. That is why I was thinking of just a pour over. The area is 10x20. What would you all expect it to cost with an area of this size? And is a pour over a good idea or do I need to start from scratch? Or is there a all together better option? Thank you all very much.
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Advice on putting concrete in
- Thread starter laferty
- Start date
tigmusky
Well-known member
pour over would work. how many years are you looking to get out of it??
1 yard of mud will cover 81 sq. ft. at 4'' thick . 90.00 to 130. a yard .
maybe do a pour 2''thick with fiber mess mud?
Daye
1 yard of mud will cover 81 sq. ft. at 4'' thick . 90.00 to 130. a yard .
maybe do a pour 2''thick with fiber mess mud?
Daye
bimmer1980
Well-known member
How much do you want to spend?
The best, but most expensive would be to tear out all the old concrete, pack it and pour a new pad. Jack hammer and skid loader would be the best. Then you are talking renting a plate packer, putting some gravel or rock down, packing, then 4" of concrete with wire mesh or rebar.
Skid loader-- usually $250 per day, plus delivery
Jack hammer -- ??
Plate packer -- $50 / day
Gravel or stone --usually about $10 per ton, plus delivery if you order in mass quantities
rebar or wire mesh--Qty dependent, usually $10 to 12 per 20' of rebar at big boax stores
Concrete--$80 to $120 per yard, usually includes delivery over 5 yards, otherwise, $80 to 100 delivery fee.
Power conrete skreed: $50 per day
Concrete finishing tools: Rent or purchase... $50 to $100 depending on what you do
Super smooth finish--rent power trowel $50 to $75 per day...
Saw to cut joins--$50 per day
Hired labor- ??????
All are estimates, check your local rental center
10 x 20' area at 4" thick: about 3 yards, considering a little extra.
Cheaper method:
Pour the 2" layer over with high PSI concrete. Less prep work, but it may be prone to cracking where there are already cracks. You may still want the concrete pouring tools as listed above--hand tool, power skreed, power trowel, etc.
Cheapest method, perhaps. Purchase bag concrete at your local home center and pour it in sections. Lay down a couple of 2x4's to make a 5x5 or 5x10 area. then mix concrete and hand trowel it over the existing. You would have to be super careful to get it flat, but it could be done. You could do a little bit at a time and work your way towards the front. All concrete could be mixed by hand in a wheel barrow or a cement mixer if you can find one. This method would take a lot of labor, but it could be done cheap.......
best of luck!
The best, but most expensive would be to tear out all the old concrete, pack it and pour a new pad. Jack hammer and skid loader would be the best. Then you are talking renting a plate packer, putting some gravel or rock down, packing, then 4" of concrete with wire mesh or rebar.
Skid loader-- usually $250 per day, plus delivery
Jack hammer -- ??
Plate packer -- $50 / day
Gravel or stone --usually about $10 per ton, plus delivery if you order in mass quantities
rebar or wire mesh--Qty dependent, usually $10 to 12 per 20' of rebar at big boax stores
Concrete--$80 to $120 per yard, usually includes delivery over 5 yards, otherwise, $80 to 100 delivery fee.
Power conrete skreed: $50 per day
Concrete finishing tools: Rent or purchase... $50 to $100 depending on what you do
Super smooth finish--rent power trowel $50 to $75 per day...
Saw to cut joins--$50 per day
Hired labor- ??????
All are estimates, check your local rental center
10 x 20' area at 4" thick: about 3 yards, considering a little extra.
Cheaper method:
Pour the 2" layer over with high PSI concrete. Less prep work, but it may be prone to cracking where there are already cracks. You may still want the concrete pouring tools as listed above--hand tool, power skreed, power trowel, etc.
Cheapest method, perhaps. Purchase bag concrete at your local home center and pour it in sections. Lay down a couple of 2x4's to make a 5x5 or 5x10 area. then mix concrete and hand trowel it over the existing. You would have to be super careful to get it flat, but it could be done. You could do a little bit at a time and work your way towards the front. All concrete could be mixed by hand in a wheel barrow or a cement mixer if you can find one. This method would take a lot of labor, but it could be done cheap.......
best of luck!
Ok. I really like your last idea. lol. Im just trying to do a make do floor and something that will last a little bit and let me work on my hobbies. I think i could rent a concrete mixer and do it myself. I have a few questions though. Once i made the 5x10 area, working from the back wall lengthwise, and filled it with the concrete, when i started the next 5x10 section how would i join the two together? just leave a seam? and how long do i allow the section to dry untill i remove the board and move on? and how do you get a semi smooth surface? is that possible with the mixed stuff from the store?
Thank you,
Matthew
Thank you,
Matthew
tigmusky
Well-known member
rebar from one slap to the next
bimmer1980
Well-known member
for less than 2", I don't think I would use rebar. too prone to pop. you can, but I would use rebar if you are pouring something thicker.
for the last scenario, here's the deal.
pour the first section. you want the consistency of the concrete to be about as thick as you can get it, but still have it consolidated and workable. something close to the thickness of cookie dough. then you dump it in the section in little mounds. as you dump one load, get the mixer loaded up and turning... then let the mixer turn while you come back and take a 2x4 to screed over the mound of concrete. Basically, you are using a "sawing" motion to push the concrete around and begin to smooth it out.
Skreeding it will leave a rough surface--that's ok at this point. Hopefully by this point, the next load is mixed. Repeat the above, but now cutting edge of this new mix in with the previous mix and then skreeding.... once you have the little area completely filled and skreeded off, then the next step.
a 16" magnesium float is the best for this. On a large job, I would use a bull float--48" wide and a long handle. Hold the float so the leading edge is lifted off the surface about 1/8" and then make a swipe. Lift the other side of the float and swip the other way. work your way across the pad until it looks smooth like a frosted cake. this process will help to push the stones down and generate some "cream" on the top..... now you need to wait until the "bleed water" evaporates. after this "floating" with the mag float, the water will bead up on the surface. this is the bleed water. you need to be sure that this evaporates before you use the steel trowel.
Once the bleed water is evaporated, it will have a semi-dull look to it. Now it's time to use the steel finishing trowel. Similar to the mag trowel, but it has a thin steel blade. Hold it in a similar manner, but now you are going to apply some presure as you swipe it across ths surface. Keep doing this across the whole surface, and it will begin to take on a smooth surface. This takes time, but you must work quickly.
It has been my experience that the bagged concrete sets up much slower than the readi-mix concrete out of the truck..
Once the surface is good and set up--you will probably have to wait until the next day or two days later. Then pull off the forms and restart. you could put some fiber expansion material in between the "blocks", but for the scale of you project, I would only put one every 8 or 10'.
I would recommend getting a book from the library or check out old issues of Fine home building and family handy man for additional details.
for the last scenario, here's the deal.
pour the first section. you want the consistency of the concrete to be about as thick as you can get it, but still have it consolidated and workable. something close to the thickness of cookie dough. then you dump it in the section in little mounds. as you dump one load, get the mixer loaded up and turning... then let the mixer turn while you come back and take a 2x4 to screed over the mound of concrete. Basically, you are using a "sawing" motion to push the concrete around and begin to smooth it out.
Skreeding it will leave a rough surface--that's ok at this point. Hopefully by this point, the next load is mixed. Repeat the above, but now cutting edge of this new mix in with the previous mix and then skreeding.... once you have the little area completely filled and skreeded off, then the next step.
a 16" magnesium float is the best for this. On a large job, I would use a bull float--48" wide and a long handle. Hold the float so the leading edge is lifted off the surface about 1/8" and then make a swipe. Lift the other side of the float and swip the other way. work your way across the pad until it looks smooth like a frosted cake. this process will help to push the stones down and generate some "cream" on the top..... now you need to wait until the "bleed water" evaporates. after this "floating" with the mag float, the water will bead up on the surface. this is the bleed water. you need to be sure that this evaporates before you use the steel trowel.
Once the bleed water is evaporated, it will have a semi-dull look to it. Now it's time to use the steel finishing trowel. Similar to the mag trowel, but it has a thin steel blade. Hold it in a similar manner, but now you are going to apply some presure as you swipe it across ths surface. Keep doing this across the whole surface, and it will begin to take on a smooth surface. This takes time, but you must work quickly.
It has been my experience that the bagged concrete sets up much slower than the readi-mix concrete out of the truck..
Once the surface is good and set up--you will probably have to wait until the next day or two days later. Then pull off the forms and restart. you could put some fiber expansion material in between the "blocks", but for the scale of you project, I would only put one every 8 or 10'.
I would recommend getting a book from the library or check out old issues of Fine home building and family handy man for additional details.