Hi, I work at a Toyota Dealership and I’m being promoted to the position of a Lube Tech! I have basic home experience. I do my own maintenance on my cars as far as oil filters, brakes, etc goes. I have been given a list of tools to acquire, but I just am not familiar with brands and don’t exactly have an understanding of what it is they’re asking for. I was wondering if someone here could take a look at the list and give me some pointers on brands, or specific tools to get! Thanks a lot!
Advice on tools
- Thread starter P3RS1AN
- Start date
Kaervak
Well-known member
I'm not a professional mechanic, just a DIY guy. For someone getting started, you don't have to go the top tier route in tools. Nor do you have to buy brand new for everything either. If time is an issue, buying new will be much quicker and easier. The majority of things on that list can be bought from Harbor Freight. No, their stuff isn't Snap-On level quality. However, for just getting started it will do the job and with how inexpensive their tools are, you can buy multiples to have as a backup. The tool cart, impact sockets, extensions, wrenches and hand ratchets I'd go with Harbor Freight stuff. Their ICON line is quite good, but if you're on a budget the Pittsburgh line is good too. The Pittsburgh 72 tooth composite ratchets are excellent by the way. For the impact wrenches themselves, go with Astro Tools. Their customer service is great and their tools are very good quality. For the oil filter cup tools, get whatever set has the most brand coverage for the best price. For the tire pressure gauge/air chuck I have an AstroAI brand one, not Astro Tools. It works without issue, I've dropped it more times than I can remember and it's still going. I'd recommend adding a pneumatic/battery ratchet. It makes fastener removal/install much faster and significantly lessens the chance of breaking fasteners too.
Again, I'm just a DIY guy, however if I were working in a shop setting just starting out I'd go the exact same route as above. Inexpensive tools with good enough quality to get me started and upgrade along the way.
Again, I'm just a DIY guy, however if I were working in a shop setting just starting out I'd go the exact same route as above. Inexpensive tools with good enough quality to get me started and upgrade along the way.
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
How do you do all your own work on everything, but don't know what basic tools are from the list they gave you?
Something seems off here.
They even made it a picture book.
Something seems off here.
They even made it a picture book.
richfinn
Well-known member
If the shop has air go with a pnuematic 1/2" impact wrench (way cheaper and longer lasting) try Astro
I would definitely go cordless for a 3/8 impact wrench (you dont need top of the range for plastic covers)
Ask the experienced techs which Toyota oil filter wrenches and plug sockets to buy.
Flashlight, go with a head mounted rechargeable LED lamp, so you can use both hands and always have light where your looking
Torque wrench look at NORBAR (Amazon) and get one in Newton Meters (N/M not lbs/ft) as Toyotas are metric, a good range would be 70nm - 350nm (this will be useful later on for hubnuts etc). as well as all the lug nuts your going to be tightening and very easy to read/set
Socket Sets/Wrenches, Tekton might be a good choice in the USA for a good starter set.
Screwdrivers just go Vessel (Amazon) cheap enough and better than tool truck brands (also fully compatible with Japanese screwheads)
Do not buy a fancy Toolbox or Cart (or any basic tools) from the tool truck!!
look for a used model (you want one that locks in a dealership so nobody messes with your stuff) or as suggested HF.
Good luck
I would definitely go cordless for a 3/8 impact wrench (you dont need top of the range for plastic covers)
Ask the experienced techs which Toyota oil filter wrenches and plug sockets to buy.
Flashlight, go with a head mounted rechargeable LED lamp, so you can use both hands and always have light where your looking
Torque wrench look at NORBAR (Amazon) and get one in Newton Meters (N/M not lbs/ft) as Toyotas are metric, a good range would be 70nm - 350nm (this will be useful later on for hubnuts etc). as well as all the lug nuts your going to be tightening and very easy to read/set
Socket Sets/Wrenches, Tekton might be a good choice in the USA for a good starter set.
Screwdrivers just go Vessel (Amazon) cheap enough and better than tool truck brands (also fully compatible with Japanese screwheads)
Do not buy a fancy Toolbox or Cart (or any basic tools) from the tool truck!!
look for a used model (you want one that locks in a dealership so nobody messes with your stuff) or as suggested HF.
Good luck
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Congratulation on your promotion! Must be exciting. Agree with everyone here. Don’t fall into a trap of over spending on tools and carts.
Few additional tips.
For 1/2 inch impact, Ingersoll Rand is really good for air tool. Consider noise level when picking.
3/8 impact definitely go cordless. Think about which platform you may want to expand into in the future. Wouldn’t be surprised if your shopmates are using Milwaukee or Dewalt (= good but expensive). Other options are HarborFreight, Makita and Kobalt.
The universal filter wrench pictured is Lisle filter wrench. They are really good. You can get those from Amazon or auto parts store.
Definitely get Vessel for screwdrivers. Toyota screw drivers at factory are supplied by Vessel. Amazon US do sell them but Amazon Japan may be cheaper (depends on volume and shipping).
For 1/2 inch impact sockets, Pittsburgh line from Harbor Freight is good. Grey Pneumatic and Sunex is also good. Some may suggest sleeved sockets to prevent scratches on wheels but the sleeves may not last long in the shop environment but it does reduce the risk of scratching customers’ wheels.
For general set, Costco sometimes sell Dewalt set at good price. Gearwrench sets via Amazon is also good. Other good value brands are Tekton and Sunex.
If you haven’t already, you can watch youtube videos on this topic. Lot of real shop mechanics give good advices.
I do like CarCareNut. He gives good advice specific to Toyota. His recommendation is for a full on mechanic but at least you’ll know what you need when you get promoted again.
Good luck!
Few additional tips.
For 1/2 inch impact, Ingersoll Rand is really good for air tool. Consider noise level when picking.
3/8 impact definitely go cordless. Think about which platform you may want to expand into in the future. Wouldn’t be surprised if your shopmates are using Milwaukee or Dewalt (= good but expensive). Other options are HarborFreight, Makita and Kobalt.
The universal filter wrench pictured is Lisle filter wrench. They are really good. You can get those from Amazon or auto parts store.
Definitely get Vessel for screwdrivers. Toyota screw drivers at factory are supplied by Vessel. Amazon US do sell them but Amazon Japan may be cheaper (depends on volume and shipping).
For 1/2 inch impact sockets, Pittsburgh line from Harbor Freight is good. Grey Pneumatic and Sunex is also good. Some may suggest sleeved sockets to prevent scratches on wheels but the sleeves may not last long in the shop environment but it does reduce the risk of scratching customers’ wheels.
For general set, Costco sometimes sell Dewalt set at good price. Gearwrench sets via Amazon is also good. Other good value brands are Tekton and Sunex.
If you haven’t already, you can watch youtube videos on this topic. Lot of real shop mechanics give good advices.
I do like CarCareNut. He gives good advice specific to Toyota. His recommendation is for a full on mechanic but at least you’ll know what you need when you get promoted again.
Good luck!
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A plier style oil wrench, and a 8 piece metric ratchet set is all I’ve needed so far to do all my work
never claimed to do all my work. Said the basic maintenance was done by me.housewolf
Well-known member
I just made a last minute decision and bought that cart (& side shelf) in lieu of a larger cabinet. No regrets at all. Saved some $$ and it’s a much more effective solution for my storage issue. Its loaded with my commonly used automotive tools and can easily move it anywhere in my shop next to where I’m working. The little shelf is as handy as the cart is
four.cycle
Well-known member
Respectfully, One-Inch inspection mirrors are ********. You can't see a goddam thing with 'em!
Get a real mirror where you can actually SEE something, with a HEX SHANK that doesn't swivel around when you bump it into the exhaust system!
Get a real mirror where you can actually SEE something, with a HEX SHANK that doesn't swivel around when you bump it into the exhaust system!
Armstrong 70-925 Flat Inspection Mirror With Telescoping Handle 2-1/4" Round 10"
Armstrong 70-925 Flat Inspection Mirror With Telescoping Handle 2-1/4" Round 10"
www.cripedistributing.com
Half-fast eddie
Well-known member
The tool cart in the picture of required tools is just a flat top cart. That would work for home, but there's no way to lock up your tools, or even drawers.
Keep a notebook, so you can write down any tool that you need and do not have. I would recommend this to anyone starting a new job.
The Harbor Freight 5 drawer cart, that DMcFarland and otherssaid to get would be perfect for a lube tech. White would be a good color for Toyota.
Congratulations on new job.
That tool list sounds pretty reasonable. There are a lot of good recommendations in this thread.
FourCycle is dead on about the mirror. Skip the 1”, and get the
2 1/4”.
Get an extra 14mm socket or two.
The Harbor Freight 5 drawer cart, that DMcFarland and otherssaid to get would be perfect for a lube tech. White would be a good color for Toyota.
Congratulations on new job.
That tool list sounds pretty reasonable. There are a lot of good recommendations in this thread.
FourCycle is dead on about the mirror. Skip the 1”, and get the
2 1/4”.
Get an extra 14mm socket or two.
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Firstly, congrats!
I agree with the others that you should stay away from Snap On even if you feel like you're making enough money to 'afford' it. Put 10%-15% of what you earn in an IRA (or a 401K if Toyota offers that) before you consider money available for anything SO.
Pittsburgh impact sockets are really good, and HF makes it easy to replace any that break (unlikely for what you're doing especially, but whatever). Get the dull ones, not the shiny ones.
I'd recommend Milwaukee impacts - their mid torque should do just about everything you'll work on for a long time. It can be set to be gentle (no impacts once the faster comes free - just moves to spin-out mode, and won't ugga-ugga once the fastener seats so you can move to the torque wrench or just finish tightening more carefully with a wrench/whatever). I've done axle nuts, high-torque suspension bolts and all kinds of stuff with mine, and it doesn't struggle. It's small enough to get just about everywhere. Here it is doing caliper bracket bolts on the family Mazda:
vs. my pretty-tiny M12 Stubby:
As far as the cart, I agree with whoever said the USG 5-drawer is a great start. The 4-drawer is fine too, but eventually it won't have enough storage IMHO. Get one that locks.
Personally, I'd get the Sunex wheel sockets (sleeved) and see how the sleeves hold up. You can probably get extras.
As far as ratchets and chrome sockets, I have really liked my Icon stuff. More expensive, but very nice and also easy to warranty if needed at HF. The ratchets compare well with my Snap On (not as-good, but a fraction of the $$). I'd get a regular, a flex head and a roto. I'm surprised they're not recommending a 1/4" set, but I guess as a lube tech you're not going under the hood where all the small fasteners are. There are a LOT of good options for ratchets and sockets though.
I'm very surprised to see a 1/2" torque wrench considering the torque values of everything you'll touch that requires torque short of wheels. I'd get a 3/8" as well.
I agree with the head-mounted light. A magnetic Braun light from HF will come in handy too.
I agree with the others that you should stay away from Snap On even if you feel like you're making enough money to 'afford' it. Put 10%-15% of what you earn in an IRA (or a 401K if Toyota offers that) before you consider money available for anything SO.
Pittsburgh impact sockets are really good, and HF makes it easy to replace any that break (unlikely for what you're doing especially, but whatever). Get the dull ones, not the shiny ones.
I'd recommend Milwaukee impacts - their mid torque should do just about everything you'll work on for a long time. It can be set to be gentle (no impacts once the faster comes free - just moves to spin-out mode, and won't ugga-ugga once the fastener seats so you can move to the torque wrench or just finish tightening more carefully with a wrench/whatever). I've done axle nuts, high-torque suspension bolts and all kinds of stuff with mine, and it doesn't struggle. It's small enough to get just about everywhere. Here it is doing caliper bracket bolts on the family Mazda:
vs. my pretty-tiny M12 Stubby:
As far as the cart, I agree with whoever said the USG 5-drawer is a great start. The 4-drawer is fine too, but eventually it won't have enough storage IMHO. Get one that locks.
Personally, I'd get the Sunex wheel sockets (sleeved) and see how the sleeves hold up. You can probably get extras.
As far as ratchets and chrome sockets, I have really liked my Icon stuff. More expensive, but very nice and also easy to warranty if needed at HF. The ratchets compare well with my Snap On (not as-good, but a fraction of the $$). I'd get a regular, a flex head and a roto. I'm surprised they're not recommending a 1/4" set, but I guess as a lube tech you're not going under the hood where all the small fasteners are. There are a LOT of good options for ratchets and sockets though.
I'm very surprised to see a 1/2" torque wrench considering the torque values of everything you'll touch that requires torque short of wheels. I'd get a 3/8" as well.
I agree with the head-mounted light. A magnetic Braun light from HF will come in handy too.
P3RS1AN, the decision how much to spend will depend on how much they pay you and for how long you plan to do the work
How much time do you have to get the tools?
If you have a little bit of time:
1. Tool Cart - I would recommend buying used. Sometimes you have good deals on good brands. Harbor Freight is around 290 for 5 drawer one if I remember correctly. Check local CL, Faceook Marketplace, etc...
2. 17, 19, 21, 22 sockets in 1/2" socket set - Look for great quality used prior to buying new. Sometimes you can get good deals, especially if the tools are initialed, etc. Try to find Snap On. Consider SK. Can consider looking at prices of Koken - will end up buying new though - used are hard to find.
3. I assume you will need 1/2" ratchet - look for used good quality one. I think SK could be a good start - I see them used and new sold for not that much (I remember seeling new one for $40 myself as I had another 3-4 vintage ones). Also can check other quality brands depending on what's available in your area.
4. 3/8 drive set - I am not sure if you will need the whole set. Check with your dealership. You might consider buying the sizes you will need the most to start. As before, consider good deals on used ones. Watch the video below
5. 3/8 ratchet - SK, Snap On (I would consider looking for a used Snap On - get them below $50 on CL periodically. Right now I see them $70 (but marked) listed for a while... Do not forget other older brands - one of my favorites now is an old New Britain which I got couple of years ago for $2 which needed deep cleaning and lubrication.
In general, Snap On or SK are a great choice long term if you find a deal on ratchets
6.Torque Wrench - you are not going to do high precision work most likely - consider Tekton. Keep looking for good deals and upgrade (NB if your shop provides help with torque wrench calibration at discounted prices or for free - I periodically see Snap On and other good quality torque wrenches for reasonable money used...
7. Basic Metric Wrench set - again, try to figure out what sizes you need. Depending on the place where you work and amount of rust you might see, consider possibility of 6 point combination wrenches for common sizes which you expect to use a lot.
... the oil filter removal tool - I think there is a thread here somewhere - do not remember which one was considered the best. Ask the guys in the shop as you will be using it day in and out.
If you are in a rush and need to get a lot of things fast.
-If you have Home Depot nearby - just get some basics (I think Husky still has lifetime warranty on sockets), Gearwrench ratchet, etc. - if things break, you can just swap them fast... And then keep looking for great deals for tools which you use the most and slowly upgrade...
I hope this helps
Sorry, I am a DIY - a pro might give you a better advise, but this is how I would do it
Watch this videos:
- will help you with common sizes!
How much time do you have to get the tools?
If you have a little bit of time:
1. Tool Cart - I would recommend buying used. Sometimes you have good deals on good brands. Harbor Freight is around 290 for 5 drawer one if I remember correctly. Check local CL, Faceook Marketplace, etc...
2. 17, 19, 21, 22 sockets in 1/2" socket set - Look for great quality used prior to buying new. Sometimes you can get good deals, especially if the tools are initialed, etc. Try to find Snap On. Consider SK. Can consider looking at prices of Koken - will end up buying new though - used are hard to find.
3. I assume you will need 1/2" ratchet - look for used good quality one. I think SK could be a good start - I see them used and new sold for not that much (I remember seeling new one for $40 myself as I had another 3-4 vintage ones). Also can check other quality brands depending on what's available in your area.
4. 3/8 drive set - I am not sure if you will need the whole set. Check with your dealership. You might consider buying the sizes you will need the most to start. As before, consider good deals on used ones. Watch the video below
5. 3/8 ratchet - SK, Snap On (I would consider looking for a used Snap On - get them below $50 on CL periodically. Right now I see them $70 (but marked) listed for a while... Do not forget other older brands - one of my favorites now is an old New Britain which I got couple of years ago for $2 which needed deep cleaning and lubrication.
In general, Snap On or SK are a great choice long term if you find a deal on ratchets
6.Torque Wrench - you are not going to do high precision work most likely - consider Tekton. Keep looking for good deals and upgrade (NB if your shop provides help with torque wrench calibration at discounted prices or for free - I periodically see Snap On and other good quality torque wrenches for reasonable money used...
7. Basic Metric Wrench set - again, try to figure out what sizes you need. Depending on the place where you work and amount of rust you might see, consider possibility of 6 point combination wrenches for common sizes which you expect to use a lot.
... the oil filter removal tool - I think there is a thread here somewhere - do not remember which one was considered the best. Ask the guys in the shop as you will be using it day in and out.
If you are in a rush and need to get a lot of things fast.
-If you have Home Depot nearby - just get some basics (I think Husky still has lifetime warranty on sockets), Gearwrench ratchet, etc. - if things break, you can just swap them fast... And then keep looking for great deals for tools which you use the most and slowly upgrade...
I hope this helps
Sorry, I am a DIY - a pro might give you a better advise, but this is how I would do it
Watch this videos:
Hey, I also work at a Toyota dealer over in parts
Assuming you were a lot porter or something like that before? Congrats on the promotion!
The list they have given you is pretty basic so you will have to be more specific if there is there is a part that you don't understand. I would definitely talk to your other techs and ask them if you have questions.
But it looks like they essentially want you to have the tools necessary to mostly do:
a) oil changes
b) wheel removal/tire rotations.
So they want you to have:
- The special socket for those Toyota filters with the replaceable element and plastic housing cap.
- Also a universal filter socket in case you run into older stuff or other brands (They picture the type that is spring loaded, but the type that is gear driven to grip the filter using a hand tool might be ok too, ask your techs). If you find yourself doing a lot of a particular type of filter, you could pick up dedicated sizes down the road but I wouldn't worry about it now.
- A 1/2" impact wrench with a 17/19/21/22mm deep impact socket set mostly for lug nuts. They picture an air impact which can be cheaper than a battery impact. Removing lug nuts will be done with the car on a lift, so pretty much guaranteed air line access and no weird tight locations for a hose
- A 1/2" torque wrench for doing up lug nuts, probably in the 50-200 lb-ft range. The specs themselves will mostly likely range from about 80-160 but you can check with your techs. The brand and accuracy aren't super critical for higher values on lug nut usage.
- A 3/8" impact wrench with an assortment of metric impact sockets for other smaller fasteners you may encounter on skid plates or splash shields during oil changes. They picture a cordless model which probably makes sense since it could be lighter/smaller than a 1/2" model and you won't have to worry about snaking air lines under the car. Dewalt pictured although Milwaukee is pretty popular in automotive and Makita are nice too. Probably 200-300 USD with a battery. You can check with your other techs to see what people there are using since battery compatibility could come in handy.
They also want you to have a basic set of wrenches and and 3/8" drive sockets, extensions, ratchet, etc. for any other work you might do by hand on skid plates/splash shields. You might also need some torx bits too for working onBMW'sSupras, check with your techs.
There is a dewalt "master set" pictured which is probably a little less than 100 USD. Pretty sure that's the same set we have in our parts department for random jobs like processing hybrid battery cores. Not the greatest quality tools in the world but super cheap and will have enough coverage to let you get your job done.
- An air pressure gauge. They show the type with a digital gauge that you plug in to a shop air line, you would be using this to check tire pressure and adjust as necessary.
- A 1" diameter inspection mirror, probably for inspecting brake pads and brake lines.
- A flashlight to see stuff on the undercarriage.
One decent handheld one is good, a bunch of techs also carry a second smaller pen sized one that fits in your shirt pocket so that you can have it on you. Some techs also use wrap-around neck band lights or headband mounted ones. Just start with a basic flashlight and you can add to this later if necessary. Rechargeable ones are nice because you aren't going through batteries but it ***** when they run out and have to be plugged in vs just throwing new batteries in. YMMV.
- Pocket screwdriver (probably more as a pry tool but check with your techs or the shop foreman who made the list).
- A cart to put your stuff on. Doesn't need to be fancy or even necessarily have drawers. Harbor freight or a used library cart or whatever should suffice.
--------------------------------------
I don't know if they expect you to have regular sized screwdrivers, but if so, the only specific brand recommendation I am going to make is to go Vessel on these. It's a Japanese company who actually made the Toyota branded screwdrivers before Toyota discontinued them. (photo over on yotatech)
What a lot of people don't understand is that the crosshead fasteners used on basically all Japanese products are NOT "phillips". They follow a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards) specification that uses a slightly different shape.
You can use google to find the details but the quick version is that old-fashioned American phillips is designed to cam out to limit the amount of torque that can be applied, often stripping the fastener. The JIS crosshead spec is designed to not cam out and can apply much more torque which is critical when trying to remove stuck or grimey fasteners.
Now, the JIS spec for crosshead drivers was removed around 2007 so you won't see any tools officially certified JIS after that date, but the shape of Japanese screwdrivers hasn't really changed and continues to match the shape of their screws. The German DIN standard for PH drivers is a little better than generic phillips drivers but still not as good as a Japanese tool for Japanese fasteners.
Most Americans or Europeans are ignorant to the difference and swear by expensive Snap-On/Wiha/PB Swiss/etc. for high end screwdrivers, and yes those are nice tools, but they are just the wrong shape to fit 100% on Japanese products.
So, if you need screwdrivers, get Vessel (or another Japanese brand like Sunflag or Anex, although these are less common to find exported).
Here is a basic set:
Anti-slip set for use around oily conditions:
With two stubbies and a foam tray:
And heavier duty tang-thru versions with striking caps:
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
I use a retrieval magnet far more than the inspection mirror.
If you find yourself using sockets much, an air or electric ratchet and a set of the Astro swivel impact sockets will help with productivity and generally make things easier.
Ratcheting combination wrenches at least 10-14, but preferably 19, gearwrench is good enough.
If you find yourself using sockets much, an air or electric ratchet and a set of the Astro swivel impact sockets will help with productivity and generally make things easier.
Ratcheting combination wrenches at least 10-14, but preferably 19, gearwrench is good enough.
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A little bit of an addition to my earlier post. Lots of great comments here but I see a few getting alittle wild recommending changes to the list like a bigger mirror or a multi-drawer cart or whatever.
DO NOT randomly deviate from that list without express permission from your foreman or whoever made that list. If you show up to your first day with other stuff, they aren't going to think that you are smart, just that you can't follow basic instructions.
For example, a larger mirror may help in some situations and you could definitely get one later in addition to a 1" mirror, but don't try substituting. If you look at about 2:40 in the first video that boom_pap posted or 3:45 in the second, you can see the guy has a 1.25" mirror for checking around calipers which is pretty much what I expected in my post further up. Larger mirrors will not easily fit in that space.
As for the cart, you just don't have all that many tools as a lube tech. You may not have a dedicated bay or wall space to store a box like advanced techs and you really shouldn't need something that will be heavy to push around or have lots of drawers. If you decide you don't like the job, a cheap cart is no big loss and if you do stick with the job, you will get a box eventually, so no point spending on a fancy cart now. I'm pretty sure this is the one pictured on that paper: https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-service-cart-with-drawer-red-64058.html
Hope that helps!
DO NOT randomly deviate from that list without express permission from your foreman or whoever made that list. If you show up to your first day with other stuff, they aren't going to think that you are smart, just that you can't follow basic instructions.
For example, a larger mirror may help in some situations and you could definitely get one later in addition to a 1" mirror, but don't try substituting. If you look at about 2:40 in the first video that boom_pap posted or 3:45 in the second, you can see the guy has a 1.25" mirror for checking around calipers which is pretty much what I expected in my post further up. Larger mirrors will not easily fit in that space.
As for the cart, you just don't have all that many tools as a lube tech. You may not have a dedicated bay or wall space to store a box like advanced techs and you really shouldn't need something that will be heavy to push around or have lots of drawers. If you decide you don't like the job, a cheap cart is no big loss and if you do stick with the job, you will get a box eventually, so no point spending on a fancy cart now. I'm pretty sure this is the one pictured on that paper: https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-service-cart-with-drawer-red-64058.html
Hope that helps!
Me too. I don't really need a bigger mirror, but a magnet that is shielded on the sides but strong at the bottom has been massively useful
Desert Toyota in Tucson, AZ had a program for new Lube techs where the dealer fronted new Lube techs the cart with basic tools and had them pay it off over 12 weeks or so. It worked well with fresh out of the vocational high school candidates who were starting with nothing. I would stray from the other advice here and buy in to the Milwaukee M12/M18 platform for impacts. Not dragging around an air hose minimizes damage to the customer’s vehicle and reduces tripping hazards too. Using them all day the lighter M12 tools are preferred for 3/8” and smaller. The M12 stubby impact will do lug nuts, but you’d be better served with the M18 mid torque.
Definitely avoid the tool trucks. They prey on new techs to hook them young and keep them in debt. Many of the specialty items can be found on Amazon for 1/2 the price of the trucks.
Definitely avoid the tool trucks. They prey on new techs to hook them young and keep them in debt. Many of the specialty items can be found on Amazon for 1/2 the price of the trucks.
Lots of good advise here.
Half that list could be filled at your local harbor freight.
The US general tool cart is a great start.
You can get by with the Pittsburg brand harbor freight wrenches and sockets to get you started, but the Icon line is definitely worth the extra dollars.
Also agree on the Milwaukee cordless impacts. Great tools to have, albeit not always the most affordable.
Be wary of what some of these YouTube videos show you. There's a definite difference in needs between a lube tech and a full on technician. You won't need nearly the spectrum of tools that a full on technician will need. Your tools also won't see even 1/3 the abuse.
If you already work at the dealer, ask for recommendations from other guys in the shop.
Lube techs in my area start at $17-18/hr (minimum wage is $15).
The work you'll be doing is mainly oil changes, tire rotations, air/cabin filters, and safety checks. You don't need snapon, matco, koken, etc. Start small and upgrade as you go. Stay off the tool trucks!
My only other prices of advice are:
1. At some point you'll need to borrow a tool. ALWAYS ask first, ALWAYS give it back before the end of the day, and ALWAYS make sure it's clean and free from damage when you do.
And
2. If you have to borrow a tool more than twice, it's time to buy it yourself.
Half that list could be filled at your local harbor freight.
The US general tool cart is a great start.
You can get by with the Pittsburg brand harbor freight wrenches and sockets to get you started, but the Icon line is definitely worth the extra dollars.
Also agree on the Milwaukee cordless impacts. Great tools to have, albeit not always the most affordable.
Be wary of what some of these YouTube videos show you. There's a definite difference in needs between a lube tech and a full on technician. You won't need nearly the spectrum of tools that a full on technician will need. Your tools also won't see even 1/3 the abuse.
If you already work at the dealer, ask for recommendations from other guys in the shop.
Lube techs in my area start at $17-18/hr (minimum wage is $15).
The work you'll be doing is mainly oil changes, tire rotations, air/cabin filters, and safety checks. You don't need snapon, matco, koken, etc. Start small and upgrade as you go. Stay off the tool trucks!
My only other prices of advice are:
1. At some point you'll need to borrow a tool. ALWAYS ask first, ALWAYS give it back before the end of the day, and ALWAYS make sure it's clean and free from damage when you do.
And
2. If you have to borrow a tool more than twice, it's time to buy it yourself.
IMO this is the most versatile oil filter wrench. You will not get the oil filter off a 4 cylinder Tacoma with the giant filter pliers or strap wrench with a handle because the filter is high up above the crossmember.
in western NY, about $16/hr
logical
Well-known member
Deleted...wrong thread
SILVERPLATE
Well-known member
Congratulations on your new position. Wish you the best in starting out. What part of the country are you located.
The OP is a troll. He said he was being "promoted" to lube tech. No one is "promoted" to lube tech except for the toilet attendant.
On the off chance that the OP is being honest, this is just one of the many reasons my Toyota's NEVER see a dealer for service except for a major warranty repair.
Lot attendants (typically 17-20 year old kids) are frequently promoted to lube tech after they prove they can show up to work consistently and demonstrate some basic aptitude. It may not be your career path, but leads to a decent career for many.
This, exactly. That's the promotion path from lot porter in a dealership service department. Not sure why CoThG revived this thread after a month to post such unkind words, kind of a sourpuss move.
I appreciate the kind replies and yes that’s exactly what happened. I love anything and everything to do with cars. Never worked on Toyotas tho. And have done basic garage work all on my own, on my own Chevy singular. I got hired as a Porter, and busted my *** to become a lube tech. And I will continue to bust my *** and get even more certifications and continue to improve in the career field I’ve chosen. And another thing… I don’t mean I didn’t know what the damn tools were…, I was more wondering what brand, where to buy, what can I go with as a second hand product, comparisons between brands etc. questions I thought I’d be able to ask, a MECHANICS FORUM without all the judgement and hatred. Either way, a few bad apples won’t change the fact that 90% of those who responded, did it out of genuine thoughtfulness, and to help someone out. And for that I appreciate you all and am grateful. The rest of you though, why don’t you go get a job or something
instead of dig up month old threads like someone else mentioned just to talk a whole lot of smack. Hope everyone has a great night tho!
Sincerely,
The Troll 🧌
instead of dig up month old threads like someone else mentioned just to talk a whole lot of smack. Hope everyone has a great night tho! Sincerely,
The Troll 🧌
MarineScott
Well-known member
I have a new kid that I will have to train, he has a lot of Harbor Freight tools to start with, then upgrade to better tools later. If it's paid for, they can't repo it
Appreciate the advice sir! That’s what I ended up doing at the end. Majority of my tools were bought from harbor freight. Got ingersoll rand impacts off Amazon and a toolbox from Home Depot. I’ve been a lube tech for about 2 weeks now. Been pushing out 18-23 cars a day; not a single issue. Then again being a lube tech is not exactly the hardest thing on the planet if you have basic mechanical knowledge. Either way thanks again!
nadogail
Well-known member
I would sit down with a new employee and make sure that we were in agreement on what tools are needed and what would not be acceptable.
I probably would have some duplicates of acceptable tools my new employee could use to start and keep as their own after a mutually agreeable period.
I probably would have some duplicates of acceptable tools my new employee could use to start and keep as their own after a mutually agreeable period.
BlakeTheCarGuy
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I started out in your spot a few years ago so hopefully I can help. First thing is I would avoid that style of oil filter cup tool they have listed. I’d buy the one that doesn’t grip around the prongs. I’ve cracked many of the housings with those styles. The style that just grips the bottom is the way to go. Can be bought on Amazon or off the tool truck or anywhere. I’d get a cordless impact though occasionally I do like to dig out my airs and use them both my 3/8 and 1/2. And they definitely good impact sockets. Harbor Freight Pittsburgh are pretty good just they do skip sizes. Capri and Tekton are also really good for impact sockets and other tools like chrome sockets and ratchets and things. One thing you will need is a Phillips head screwdriver at minimum and what I used that for when I was in your spot was cabin filters on the older stuff. I personally have never bought into the JIS line of screwdrivers Phillips works fine for me.
Hopefully you are doing well in your position. It will get repetitive but you’ll be an expert at it by the time you are done and moving up. I was burned out my second week lol. I’ve seen many come and go in that position many leave the field before advancing but hopefully you will find enough interest to stay. I’m glad to be doing anything and everything now though. I’m at a different dealership now. And am a Subaru tech mostly now it is so much better than working on Toyota haha. But at least it’s something to work on.
Hopefully you are doing well in your position. It will get repetitive but you’ll be an expert at it by the time you are done and moving up. I was burned out my second week lol. I’ve seen many come and go in that position many leave the field before advancing but hopefully you will find enough interest to stay. I’m glad to be doing anything and everything now though. I’m at a different dealership now. And am a Subaru tech mostly now it is so much better than working on Toyota haha. But at least it’s something to work on.
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I would buy all Harbor Freight stuff you can pay off with a weeks’ wagers and be done with it for a while.
I think inexpensive air impacts are a better value than battery stuff.
After a year or two or three you’ll know a lot more about what you need, like, want, and you can then buy a big Snap/On roll-can and whatnot.
Who knows, you might be promoted a few more times before the dust settles. Stranger things have happened.
i’m
I think inexpensive air impacts are a better value than battery stuff.
After a year or two or three you’ll know a lot more about what you need, like, want, and you can then buy a big Snap/On roll-can and whatnot.
Who knows, you might be promoted a few more times before the dust settles. Stranger things have happened.
i’m
This looks like a decent promo just came out: https://capritools.com/march-promo/
3 piece ratchet set and you can get a socket set shallow and deep for 35 bucks.
Look like they're using the same supplier as icon for those new 90T ratchets too.
Their 72T flexheads are great as well.
Honestly thats pretty slick, full set of 3/8 metric shallow and deep and a full ratchet set for 135
3 piece ratchet set and you can get a socket set shallow and deep for 35 bucks.
Look like they're using the same supplier as icon for those new 90T ratchets too.
Their 72T flexheads are great as well.
Honestly thats pretty slick, full set of 3/8 metric shallow and deep and a full ratchet set for 135
It also lets you use 2 of the socket deals per ratchet set, so you could get a full set of SAE on top of it for another 35.